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Happy Chanukah!

Happy Chanukah!

Wishing you all a joyous Chanukah, filled with light, warmth, fragrant donuts and cozy company. Chanukah originated in festivities for the culmination of the olive harvest - a crop that is not only nutritious and beneficial for the skin, but also the source of light way before kerosene lamps and beeswax candles were thought of.
During Chanukah (December 10-18), receive 20% off on orders of $100 or more with code Chanukah2020.
Here are 8 ways to celebrate the Fête of of Light and Phat! 

Shop for our delightful winter offerings, offered at 20% off with code Chanukah2020 thru December 18, 2020.

Greek Goddess & Olive Oil
Chanukah was originally a festival to celebrate the olive oil harvest. While it is not particularly useful in modern perfumery, Olive oil was the base of the ancient perfumes on the island of Cyprus, where the first perfume factory was excavated. Keeping up with this Greek theme, I suggest you try a perfume that is inspired by my favourite Greek Goddess - Palas Atena, the Goddess of Wisdom and War. You can enjoy it as a parfum oil, Eau de Parfum (in two sizes, mini or 15mL Eau de Parfum). And last but not least - also a hair oil, that is both fragrant and nourishing and can be used as a low maintenance styling product (just work it into your damp hair with your fingertips). 


New! Nag Champa Agarbatti (Indian Incense Sticks)
Few of you may know of my "roots" as an incense maker. The past few years at my new studio enabled me to perfect a few formulae, and learn new technique. One of them is how to make agarbatti (Indian incense sticks with a bamboo core). This is an incense interpretation of Palas Atena, accentuating it's Nag Champa qualities, and using traditional ingredients such as ghee and honey to make these incense sticks release a luxurious and long-lasting smoke (they burn for 35-45min) that is perfect for large spaces. For smaller spaces, you may need to burn them for just five minutes at a time. You can order and enjoy our easy-to-use incense cones version of Palas Atena. Both are fashioned after the famous and beloved traditional Nag Champa - but made form only natural raw materials, infused with rare botanicals and hand-rolled by yours truly at my studio in Clil.


Laurel & Olive Ghar Soap (Aleppo-Style Soap)
Laurel & Olive Ghar (Aleppo-Style) Soap is the definition of pure luxury: two oils only, olive and laurel berry, pressed and combined to make a nourishing soap that is both luxurious, creamy, mildly cleansing. Because it is perfectly balanced and mild, it is appropriate for many sensitive skin conditions, and naturally fragrant without any scent added. Originating in the city of Aleppo, Syria, this is a unique, traditional soap in the Levant, that is produced only by a handful of small factories in Turkey and Syria, and now also offered by Ayala Moriel Parfums.


Sweet Olive (Osmanthus) Perfumes
Olives are great in your martini, but rarely finds its way into perfumes. It's sophisticated cousin Osmanthus though, is also known in the South as Sweet Olive. And indeed, it is a key component in In New Orleans and Charisma has it paired with sweet and warm spearmint and jasmine green tea over an incense base of our and tonka bean. Last but not least: Kinmokusei, my beloved Osmanthus soliflore, it is the star of the show.

Narcissi, Puddles and Mushrooms
This is the time of the year that Narcissus tazetta show their fragrant heads in our meadows. Narkiss (https://ayalamoriel.com/collections/seasonal-ltd-edition/products/narkiss) is its Hebrew name, and the name for the perfume that truly embodies the spirit of Kislev, the Hebrew month in which Chanukah takes place (Kislev 25 falls this year on the eve of Thursday, December 10th). Narkiss perfume smells like winter in Israel, with the slightly incense, green and heady perfume of wild narcissi against the drunken earth, rain puddles, and the moist and elusive scent of mushrooms in the air. This sophisticated Chypre is suitable for both men and women.


Winter Nerikoh
Nerikoh is Japanese kneaded incense that has been fermented underground for at least six months. Nerikoh is never burnt, but rather warmed on an incense heater, to accompany the tea ceremony. You needn't any fancy equipment to enjoy it, and a tiny pinch of one of these tiny balls will scent a room for hours on end. Use an aromatherapy diffuser, or place on top of your wood stove or radiator. It will release a gentle scent of spices, resins and woods. Choose from our most delectable scents for winter: Wind in the Palm Trees AKA Oasis Nerikoh (with dates and Ras el Hanout), or Saturn Nerikoh (with starwood, patchouli and myrrh).

Za'atar, Olive & Seawater Soap Bar
Za'atar & Olive is 100% olive oil, and not just any olive oil, but the purest virgin olive oil that was organically grown and harvested in my family's olive groves. This soap bar is made in the tradition of Savon de Marseilles, with filtered seawater from the Mediterranean sea. And to make it even more wild, it is scented with oil of oregano and sprinkled with Za'atar blend.

Black Licorice Soap Bar (Limited Edition)
Black Licorice soap (https://ayalamoriel.com/products/black-licorice-limited-edition-soap-bar) bar is, no doubt, the most colourful among my soap offerings. And colour and cheer is exactly what we need during these short winter days. This is our tried and true formula that is hydrating, creamy, with rich lather and non-drying. It is scented with our proprietary Black Licorice fragrance , tweaked to suit a soapy scene and thus resembles also the now defunct SenSen candy - another delectable anise candy and breath freshener from Asia. Makes a wonderful holiday gift that is fun to give and receive.

Shop for more winter treats, offered at 20% off with code Chanukah2020 thru Friday, December 18, 2020.

 

Pallas Athena

I've always admired the Greek Goddess Pallas Athena, since I first read about her as a young child in the Argonautica. Her wisdom, strength and poise impressed upon me that women can also be heroes. She always appears in warrior regalia: helmet and a spear. Her other symbols are the owl, the snake and she is often depicted with a symbol of the snake-haired Gorgon Medusa's head, either held in her hands, or placed upon her sash or shield. Pallas Athena is the one who have sent Perseus to bring Medusa's her to her, with full instructions on how to do so without turning into stone, which is the fate of anyone who gazes upon her terrible face. 

If one looks deeper into the mythology, it is told that Medusa is who she is (meaning: so terrifying that whomever gazes upon her becomes frozen or dead-like) because of a curse Pallas Athena herself cast on her, after Poseidon have raped Medusa in Pallas Athena's temple. So Pallas Athena is not only a warrior but also associated with rage and revenge. 

At the same time this makes one wonder “on which side” was Pallas Athena? Was she siding with the Patriarchal rapist god, or the woman who was raped? Was she commemorating her rage in response to the rape, and giving her the means to protect herself? Or was she enraged that a woman would allow such a thing to happen in the holy temple to the Goddess? Or is the temple actually symbolic of the woman's body - her personal intimate temple? I have a few reasons to believe this is all of the above. Medusa has become a part of Pallas Athena, either because she represents her more innocent side that was betrayed and raped; or because she was Pallas Athena's victim. And victims and their perpetrators are forever connected in an embrace that is at the same time a curse, and at the same time the key to their respective healing and redemption. 

Is Pallas Athena in a sense is a very Patriarchal female-goddess, a female goddess who is trying to navigate through the new realms of Patriarchy, using masculine tools such as weapons and revenge? Or is she giving women the tools to redeem their frozen, traumatized selves and transform them into powerful magical beings such as Pegasus (the winged-horse that was born out of Medusa after she was beheaded)?

The story echoes an ancient story: The Descend of Innana to the Underworld, a Sumerian myth that is the most ancient written myth we ever found, written in cuneiform on clay slates some 6,000 years ago. In this myth we can peek into the Sacred Feminine and its power before it was tainted with fear, hatred and oppression. Inanna was the Goddess of Fertility and War, just like Pallas Athena reconciles within her Wisdom and War. Some say that Venus or Aphrodite was Innana's later form, being the tame goddess of love, beauty and fertility. But I think that Innana held within her all Sacred Feminine -  Pallas Athena and Aphrodite. She was both powerful, just and wise, as well as sensual, sexual and seductive. She is portrayed in that ancient myth as the master of her own self, body, soul, mind, spirit. She has conquered the world on all of its layers - the heavenly and spiritual (the sky or heaven), the earthy and sensual (earth), and lastly the underworld which is the shadow aspect of the world, the unseen, and hidden, the ugly. She is no frozen Medusa when she chooses on her own terms  to bring her own death upon her, because a lifeless body and yet she has a plan and she is able to come back to life, buy her way out of the underworld and even seek revenge at those too weak to support her sacred journey. Innana exemplifies a deity that is both dark and light, sensuous and clever, enjoys her body, smart and cunning, and can face her own death and conceive her own rebirth and redemption. She shows us how to be authentic and connected to our entire being on all its levels: light and dark, shadow and self, passive and active, spiritual and earthy and even beyond and underneath this world. And to me this is what I peel away when I look at the myths of Pallas Athena as well. 

In her own way, Pallas Athena integrates Medusa, her frozen and frightened self, her lower existence in the shadows, by wearing her as a brooch or perhaps even a trophy on her regalia. But this integration is symbolic and not internalized. Medusa is seen as an enemy; while Innana's descend into the underworld is considered her greatest achievement, after which her lower self and higher self become one and whole; and her decaying carcass, her shadow is embraced and returned back to life and back into the land of the living, to continue leading a life, making mistakes and continuing to learn and evolve. Pallas Athena, without knowing, is forever frozen just as much as her trophy, for not embracing her fully. For not allowing her weaker aspects the space they need to be felt and there for to heal and become whole. 

Palas Atena perfume is one of my first creations (2001) and is an Oriental-Spicy perfume with champaca flowers, lavender, neroli and cinnamon over a base of amber, patchouli and sandalwood. It brings me a bit of synenthetic response, seeing the colours of crimson and gold which I imagine the goddess to be wearing. I hope wearing this will enable you to reconcile all those aspects of yourself. When I wear it I feel powerful and smart and sensual. I hope it will do the same to you, and maybe even other things that I can't even imagine.

The image is of Pallas Athena Attic red-figure kylix painting from c. 480-470 BC showing Athena observing as the Colchian dragon disgorges the hero Jason.

 

 

Must Read: 500 Greatest Modern Perfumes

Basenotes is turning 15 this September! 
To celebrate, they're revealing, hour-by-hour, the "500 Greatest Modern Perfumes" that were launched from 2000 till now. This makes for a fascinating read that reveals what the choices of members of this wonderful global community of fragrance lovers (which I've been part of since 2003), which originally began mostly as a grooming and fragrance forum (AKA discussion board) for men. Yip, those were the days before blogs and vlogs, YouTube and Netflix ;-) 

The list's order is not exactly important. Rather, look at it as a compilation of what members had in their fragrance collections (AKA wardrobes), wish lists, which ones were viewed and reviewed the most, and which ones received the best star ranking. For each fragrance selected, there's also a review by one of the members. So it makes for a very fun read! 
You'll find all kinds of fragrances here, from drugstore gems and celebrity frags to posh designers releases, niche and hard to find European fragrances and of course - the creations of artisans like me who make everything by hand, bottle by bottle. So far I've seen 4 of my perfumes there: Palas Atena, Fête d'Hiver, Indigo and Kinmokusei, plus one that I've reviewed (Poivre Samarcande). You can also join the discussion on guessing what would be revealed next, on this thread. 

It's like a snapshot of what Basenoters have been wearing and loving for the past 15 years. The entire list will be fully rolled out on September 25th. 

To The Ends of the Earth: Ten Fragrances That Will Transport

It is no secret that we are huge advocates for travel. There is nothing more enriching, exciting, or educating than bursting outside of your own familiar, cultural bubble and traveling somewhere far outside your country and possibly comfort zone. Summer is one of the best times to travel because most people get a little more time off and it usually means that the weather is going to be nice wherever you go. Even if you’re operating on a busy schedule and/or tight budgets don’t allow for summer travel this year - there is no excuse for not experiencing the cultures of countries far, far away this summer: Books, restaurants, recipes, movies, and of course, perfume will transport you to the desired destination fast and effortlessly!

Espionage – Destination: London, England

A subtly sexy scent that blends seamlessly with the scent of one’s natural skin, Espionage is a captivating and elusive blend of precious woods, classic florals and edgy leathery notes. With tonka bean, vanilla absolute, cedar wood, and nuances of cigar smoke and leather, you will find yourself transported o a mysterious London bar in the dead of night. 

Recipe idea: Lavender Ice Cream

  Film Noir – Destination: Hollywood, California

 
The golden age of Hollywood, the captivating thirties and forties, was a time of drama, intrigue, unadulterated luxury and true mystery – something that seems to be all but lost in today’s over-exposed culture. Film Noir’s decadent cacao, myrrh, and patchouli fragrance will help you channel Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich and the effortless power and unapologetic femininity that these femme-fatales conveyed.

Etrog - Destination: Israel 

Etrog is the Hebrew name for citrus medica, a truly rare citrus fruit that is prized for it’s delicate floral aroma and flavor. Etrog is one of the four species in Sukkot and symbolizes the heart while representing a whole and complete person, one who has wisdom and knowledge but also compassion and who commits good deeds. This fragrance is composed of ingredients that are reminiscent of Israel such as olive tree resin, opoponax (sweet myrrh), frankincense, petitgrain cedrat (leaves and twigs from the citron tree), and crisp green myrtle. A truly captivating fragrance with rare Mediterranean  ingredients.

Pales Atena – Destination: Greece 

Named after the Greek goddess of Wisdom,  Pales Atena combines spices like cinnamon with a base of patchouli, amber and sandalwood, which sets the warm tone for the fragrance. These warm base notes form a powerful foundation for lavender, sweet orange, vibrant jasmine grandiflorum, and the exotic and rounded flowers of champaca (a tropical golden-coloured magnolia).

 Sabotage – Destination: Acores, Portugal 

The beauty of the Portuguese islands is incomparable in its tranquility. There is something about the vast azure sea, rolling green hills, and sharp cliffs that have captured my heart since visiting my family there in 2009. The streets lined with hydrangeas and the fragrant aroma of “maracuja” (passionfruit) and sun-baked grass and earth are what I remember most about my summer spent in Sao Miguel and Terceira.  Sabotage’s citrusy notes of orange flower, lemon zest and lemon leaf combine with earthy Haitian vetiver, pimento berry (a spice often used in Portuguese cooking) and pungent green give a little spicy twist to this scent, reminiscent of Portugal’s invigorating coast and islands.

Recipe idea: Queijadas (Portuguese Custard Tarts)


Rainforest – Destination: British Columbia


British Columbia is renowned for its breath-taking natural scenery. It’s majestic mountains, calm seas, and abundant forests define B.C as a province and make it a beloved home to its locals and a thrilling and truly stunning destination for travellers. Rainforest is a coniferous, woody, chypre fragrance that encapsulates the fragrance and feeling of walking through the rain-kissed forest, inhaling the damp moss, pine needles and soft wild flowers. Cedar-wood, oakmoss, juniper berry, violet leaf and spruce are some of the notes that compose this refreshing, very west-coast fragrance.

Recipe idea: Fresh Rhubarb Compote

Cabaret – Destination : Caribbean
With creamy vanilla absolute, tropical magnolia, dark coconut, orris root and Turkish rose, Cabaret evokes images of nights spent on Caribbean beaches with the azure waves frothing against the sandy shore. It’s a sexy, sweet, and subtle gourmand, perfect for your sensory tropical vacation.

Recipe idea: Raw Coconut Macaroons

New Orleans – Destination: New Orleans, Louisiana

For those who have always dreamt of going to a Mardi Gras but have never gotten the chance to go, New Orleans is afragrance that celebrates the Louisiana coast with oceanic seaweed and ambergris supported by uplifting notes of Meyer lemon, Murcott mandarin, osmanthus, rosemary, vetiver Haiti, tea rose and white magnolia. It’s a fresh soft scent that captures the lively and irrepressible spirit of New Orleans.

Recipe idea: Rosewater Lemonade

 Finjan – Destination: Turkey

 Finjanis a darkly sweet, oriental gourmand fragrance that celebrates the fragrant flavor and aroma of Turkish coffee with coffee absolute, clove, cardamom, blood orange, rose maroc, and balsam tolu. It’s a spicy unisex fragrance that will take your heart and senses to the fragrant Middle East.

Bon Zai – Destination: Japan

Japan is an island of delicate yet striking natural and historical beauty. Bon Zai, inspired by the art of miniature bonsai trees, captures the tranquility of a Japanese garden with it’s its simple and minimalistic composition of agarwood, juniper berry, lemon verbena, Virginia cedarwood and sandalwood. The fragrance is characterized by shiso (perilla), a an herb often used as a garnish in Japanese cooking and has a striking aroma that transcends seasons.

Whether you are able to physically leave your home city, province, state or country this summer or not, we hope that you enjoy your sensory travels this summer! 

Nicole Bridger's Blog


Visit Nicole Bridger's blog to read Eau My Goodness - their rundown of the trio curated for her boutique on 4th Avenue. Nicole Bridger is an uber talented eco-minded Vancouver designer, and I'm very excited to be working with her and her team. Better yet - stroll over to Kitsilano for a visit at her boutique to experience this charming little gem of luxury eco-minded fashion: rich textures, beautiful colours, shapes and flowing designs.
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