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Indigo Flower

Indigo Flower

Indigo is a mystery: an elusive colour that hides in several plants across the world. The preparation of indigo is like an ancient ritual, and one of the telling signs that it worked is a coppery patina and the "Indigo Flower" that forms on top of the surface. The blue indigo flowers pictured above are in fact the dried up fruits of milk thistles that I have dipped into the vat and dyed their fuzzy hairs blue.

Each continent has its own indigotin-bearing plant, and it's amazing how ancient civilizations have unlocked the secret for extracting and dyeing with it. Indigo does not dissolve in water  and requires a careful alchemical process before it can be used as a dye. It is the most durable natural dye, and we are all familiar with it through denim, which represents just some of the shades that can be achieved with indigo dye.

I've been dreaming of shibori dyeing with indigo and have finally became confident enough to prepare my own indigo vat. Indigo powder has a peculiar scent that is familiar from henna dyes (they are histoic allies, often used in conjunction for making the paste known as "black henna", and also henna is a natural reaction agent in the indigo vat). I used dates in my own vat, and it smells like milky bubble tea which makes indigo dyeing all the more enjoyable! 

Before I even knew anything about Indigo I was inspired to create a perfume by that name. It is an homage to my mother, herself a mystery. The perfume smells like a velvet indigo hug

Indigo

In Celebration of Mothers and Motherhood

In Celebration of Mothers and Motherhood

Mother's Day 2021 Gift Guide 

Ayala Moriel continues to celebrate 20 Years of Perfumery & Incense Making this year - and I largely owe this to my mother and my grandmother being able to stand here before you today achieving what I did since starting this very fragrant adventure. 

The following gift guide is a tribute to the women who have shaped my life, and inspired some of my proudest fragrant creations that you can choose as gifts for your mothers, grandmothers and aunts. Happy Mother's Day! 

Happy Mother's Day! Ayala Moriel continues to celebrate 20 Years of Perfumery & Incense Making this year - and so I'd like to give thanks to both my mom and my daughter for experiencing what motherhood is all about from both the giving and receiving end. I'm grateful and honoured to be doing what I am doing, and it's all thanks to you!

My mother, Ada: thank you for instilling in me the love for plants and flowers especially, and for raising me close to nature, teaching me about the healing properties of the local plants as well as faraway spices. The loss of your the sense of smell also gave me the opportunity to sharpen my sniffing skills from an early age, to be confident with what I know, and to help her you navigate through this scentless world.

My daughter, Tamya: it was truly for you that I have founded this company and opened it for business. It enabled me as a young sole-parent to not only put food on the table, but also be happy switching to my motherly role at the end of a long working day. I always wanted to work doing what I love. And you gave me no choice but to accomplish this dream pretty early in life.

My Aunt, Liora: You lived your life to the fullest and fiercely defending what you believe in. I was fortunate you didn't become a mom till much later in life, and had you all to myself! You taught me discipline, hard work and determination, and standing up for my rights. I hope the next generations won't need to fight as much as you did for that!

And last but not least, my grandmother Ruth, who has sadly passed away just a little over a year ago: I'm eternally grateful for your inspiration, worldliness, attention to detail and the written language, and for always believing in me and giving me a strong foundation of confidence and support through the toughest times, and not any less - through the happy and triumphant times. I hope to carry your relentless optimism combined with an urgent lack of patience for any injustices, big or small, and to always put my actions where my words are. I really hope that I could still make you proud after all that this year has taught us in your absence. I also hope to be always able to be as generous and warm as you have been to me all my life.

🌊 P.s. Earth Day is maybe over, but the Mediterranean Oil Spill Cleanup Continues! 🌊 Reefs and underwater rocks still need professional and volunteer divers to clear away some bitumen that sank and stuck to rocks.  And so our fundraiser continues - donating to Zalul/Mediterreanean Sea People and EcoOcean proceeds from revenues of all our Beach or Sea themed fragrances

INDIGO
Velvety, deep aromas of aniseed notes with a warm base of woods and iris along with cool, green notes of violet leaf and boronia create an unusual, mysterious perfume of extreme individuality: enigmatic and reflective as the sky after sunset.
Indigo is a tribute to my mother, who is anosmic and when she could smell, enjoyed the scent of violets and anise. So this has all her favourites. Wearing it makes me feel wrapped in the indigo-coloured velvet of her hug. 

MOTHER'S DAY COFFRET 
Luxurious coffret of 8 of our beloved Language of Flowers perfumes, packed in a jewellery box lined with handmade almond-blossom paper. 
The fragrances included in this coffret are:
Kinmokusei, InCarnation, Lovender, Rosebud, Viola, White Potion, Yasmin, Zohar. 

INCARNATION 
Our mothers love us unconditionally. Carnations are traditionally given and worn on Mother's Day, symbolizing the purity and resilience of a mother's love. Those mourning the loss of their mothers wear a white carnation, and everyone else wear colourful ones. So what can be more perfect than a carnation perfume for Mother's Day? InCarnation perfume is peppery, fiery, sweet and seductive. It unfolds its voluptuous petals dusted with nutmeg and mace, and unleashes its scent with a spinning of a Flamenco dancer’s skirt.

Indigo-Dyed Lavender & Olibanum Soap 
Gorgeous handmade soap bar, with frankincense resin, lavender and dyed with indigo with golden mica pencil lines. Makes a truly stunning gift!

TAMYA PERFUME
Dedicated to my daughter, this is a tender and spring-like bouquet of ethereal flowers, and smells both innocent and youthful and sensually exotic: frangipani, hyacinth and jasmine sambac, arranged over precious woods - sandalwood and cedar from the Atlas mountains. 

KINMOKUSEI is an Osmanthus soliflore - a unique Asian flower, with a smooth and rich scent of green tea, apricot and suede leather. This osmanthus soliflore is unusually dark and rich, and is as soft as suede. It opens sparkling with apricot, peach, wild orange and raspberry undertones; rejuvenates like cool green tea, yet unmistakably smooth and floral. The base is surprising – musky and woody, with underlining leathery note of cured tobacco leaves. Kinmokusei is the Japanese name of osmanthus.

VIOLA is a Victorian-inspired bouquet with an up-beat, contemporary twist. Violet leaf and iris create a soft, powdery aroma that is both sensually feminine and refreshingly clean. Viola is the ultimate soiflore for the soliflore-phobic: It has a cheerfully simple beauty and at the same time is surprisingly full of depth.

PALAS ATENA INCENSE STICKS
Ayala Moriel's very own Nag Champa Agarbatti (incense sticks with a bamboo core) for easy use and transport. A little goes a long way. A festive and sensual fragrance, rich with exotic flowers, sandalwood and amber. Has powerful, sensual feminine energy of abundance and wisdom. 

VENUS PLANETARY INCENSE PASTILLES 
The beauty queen of the planets, Venus (the ruler of both Taurus and Libra zodiac signs) is the darling of most planet-gazers. However, it has more depth to it than meets the eye. Playfulness, freshness, beauty and love and all that is joyous in life must not be forgotten, especially for the serious types among us. This is especially crucial in the times we're experiencing right now world wide. Beauty can be soul-medicine. 

Miniature Zarzo Gift Baskets
Filled with fragrant surprises, these handwoven baskets from palm inflorescence make an elegant, sustainable and reusable gift for mothers while taking care of Mother Earth. Both size and contents can be customized. 

 

Must Read: 500 Greatest Modern Perfumes

Basenotes is turning 15 this September! 
To celebrate, they're revealing, hour-by-hour, the "500 Greatest Modern Perfumes" that were launched from 2000 till now. This makes for a fascinating read that reveals what the choices of members of this wonderful global community of fragrance lovers (which I've been part of since 2003), which originally began mostly as a grooming and fragrance forum (AKA discussion board) for men. Yip, those were the days before blogs and vlogs, YouTube and Netflix ;-) 

The list's order is not exactly important. Rather, look at it as a compilation of what members had in their fragrance collections (AKA wardrobes), wish lists, which ones were viewed and reviewed the most, and which ones received the best star ranking. For each fragrance selected, there's also a review by one of the members. So it makes for a very fun read! 
You'll find all kinds of fragrances here, from drugstore gems and celebrity frags to posh designers releases, niche and hard to find European fragrances and of course - the creations of artisans like me who make everything by hand, bottle by bottle. So far I've seen 4 of my perfumes there: Palas Atena, Fête d'Hiver, Indigo and Kinmokusei, plus one that I've reviewed (Poivre Samarcande). You can also join the discussion on guessing what would be revealed next, on this thread

It's like a snapshot of what Basenoters have been wearing and loving for the past 15 years. The entire list will be fully rolled out on September 25th. 

Happy Mother's Day!

My mom was always an au-naturelle kinda gal who loved real flowers but not perfume. So she never wore scent, but preferred floral prints instead, and would always pick beautiful flowers to cheer me up and weave a beautiful crown of spring flowers for my birthday. She even put edible blossoms in my salad (nasturtium and wild garlic flowers), and would cut the radishes into flower-shapes to encourage me to eat them. 
Although she never worn perfume - she always loved aniseed tea and caraway-studded breads. So it comes as no surprise that to this day, I associate her with anise and and the enigmatic notes of violets and iris, which I find as soft and mysterious as herself and the midnight-blue crushed velvet she liked to wear. Kinda like what I imagined l'Heure Bleue when I read about it and before I smelled it.

It was only years later that she told me that indeed violets, anise, chocolate and vanilla were her favourite smells (before she lost her sense of smell almost permanently due to chronic colds...). And she also loved the lilacs she picked for me in her first visit to Vancouver (which sadly ends tomorrow...) Years ago,
I created Indigo perfume in her honour, and I've put anise, caraway, boronia, violet, carnation, orange blossom, frankincense and amber in it... Now I'm thinking that although I was probably on the right track - I should make her another perfume, and hopefully she could smell it occasionally - with cacao and vanilla absolutes, violets and anise.  
What perfume did your mom wear as you were growing up? Or what scents do you associate her with?

Leave a comment and enter a draw for a mini of Viola, my violet soliflore, a decant of Patricia Nicolai's Sacrebleu and a few other goodies... And - a quick reminder, that today is the last day of my Mother's Day free shipping online event.

Boronia


Boronia, originally uploaded by Helen Boronia McHugh.

Boronia, originally uploaded by Helen Boronia McHugh.

Boronia is one of the rarest and most magical natural raw materials. It grows on the shores of Tasmania, in western Australia, and has a scent that is unusually complex and alluring: it is floral, sweet and peppery, reminiscent of yellow freesias; green and suave like violets (due to the high precentage of beta ionones, some alpha ionones and other carotenoids - which is not surprising given its orange-brown colour); and also reminiscent of raspberry, green tea and the sea shore and has a hint of hay and wood at the dryout phase.

Boronia notes are rarely found in mass-market perfumes because of its prohibitive cost; but also because it is susceptive to much adulteration, and the world production is extremely limited (Arctander mentiones under 1 metric tone per year but that was quite some time ago - I don't know if the production has gone up or down since than).

The only one perfume I could actually detect the boronia in is Diorissimo in parfum extrait (I bought a flacon some 8 years ago and it's pure heaven). Although Folavril lists it (along with mango) I can't say I've noticed it there.

Boronia serves an important role in the flavour industry more than in the fragrance, especially in berry flavours such as raspberry and strawberry and even peach - but most importantly cassis (black current). A little Boronia absolute goes a very long way in creating berry and fruit flavours, so it may be more popular in flavouring than in formulas for fine fragrance.

In my line I've used it in three perfumes - all very unusual as a result of the unique presence of this precious raw material:
Indigo, where it contributes to the mystique of cool vs. warm: violet, anise and orris against the warmth of amber, incense and spice.
l'Ecume des Jours, where it serves as the last catalyst to create a waterlily accord - the one that grew in Chloe's lungs and brought the doom on the entire cast of this surreal tale.
And Grin, where Boronia's eternal sunshine brings a stream of light into a forest clearing blooming with wild roses and smiling jasmines. I have to admit this one was largely inspired by Diorissiomo in the extrait.

Boronia is extremely rare and in fact the world supplies have reached bottom low this year already. So much so, that a supplier won't sell you more than 50gr until 2010, when the new harvest will be processed. The current price is $8,600 per kilo, the highest amount for any raw material I'm aware of other than agarwood essential oil. As a result, I had to increase the price of all of my perfumes containing Boronia - l'Ecume des Jours, Grin and Indigo.

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