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Reseda & Weld: Perfume & Dye Plants

Reseda & Weld: Perfume & Dye Plants

‎‏Last weekend, we explored the intersection between natural perfume and natural dyeing. Weld is a star dye plant whose darling sister, mignonette (Reseda odorata) used to be produced as an absolute for perfume. White Reseda (Reseda alba) grows in Israel every winter and spring: its modest weedy appearance and rather stinky leaves will not prepare you for the magical scent of the flowers - a marriage of tuberose, violet leaf, orange blossom and galbanum. It was a fragrance I was totally oblivious to growing up, and only discovered 3-4 years ago, after moving back here, completely by chance. 

In the photo above is my new Reseda perfume (it was features in the 2022 Spring Subscription Box), on a stunning backdrop of weld-dyed and ecoprinted fabric by Hasia Naveh. Below is mignonette in its natural habitat in my village, Clil. 

 

 

Scent & Synesthesia: Grin

Scent & Synesthesia: Grin

There are 295 kinds of green, making it the most diverse colour in nature. Green is also the colour of the heart chakra, and is associated with life and vitality, the element of earth and a healthy planet. 

Tomorrow, my friend Hasi and I will co-host an event dedicated to the intersection of colour and scent. We will demonstrate some of the techniques for extracting colour and fragrance from plants,,explore the concept of synesthesia, and how our personal history is intertwined with vines, and strewn with the healing beauty of leaves and flowers. In the photo is Grin perfume and a stunning rainbow of greens - flower- dyed fabrics by Hasia Naveh.

While green is a colour that is almost synonymous with nature, it is not as straightforward to achieve using natural dyes. Often what we'll get is either an olive green (i.e.: with plants that also contain tannins, such as pomegranate), or myriad uninspiring yellow-greens (from carrot, for instance). They tend to have a muted quality. Grassy green is usually achieved using weld (a very valuable type of yellow) layered over indigo.

The particular stunning, vivid range of green shades you see in the photo was achieved from a dyepot of scabiosa flowers, grown by Hagar Zachar, a natural dyer and flower horticulturalist from Alon HaGalil. The variety of shades is due to using different types of fabrics (i.e.: linen, cotton, silk) and also experimenting with either fresh or dried flowers. Another factor in natural dying, is when is the fabric dipped in the dyepot. Generally speaking the earlier dippings will absorb the brightest colours. The last additions to the pot, when the dye is much weaker, may achieve pastels. And of course the length of dipping time is also a factor. 

Bonus: Hagar's presence and participation in our event is a pleasant surprise (an idea Hasi came up with last minute, and we were so fortunate that Hagar was able to say yes!). She will be showing us more flowers that are suitable for colour production, on either paper or fabric. 

Grin perfume of course plays on the sound of "Green" and "Grin" - and who wouldn't smile if they're surrounded by luscious green plants, or more specifically, observing the first sprouts of green grass come autumn and the first rainshowers (if you're living in the dry parts of the world); or shoots of green from bulb plants in the spring (if you live in the parts of the world where the dead season is winter). Green as a symbol of new beginnings, and pretty optimistic at that.

The scent is made of various green-smelling and green-coloured fragrant botanicals: Galbanum, with it sharp, cut-grass and parsley personality; boronia, a delicate flower with beta ionone at its helm; violet leaf, with it green cucumber-like scent, watery and mysterious; green pepper (because it has a green colour, of course), green oakmoss, and vetiver root, which brings another shade of green that is both cool and earthy. 

Sweet Little Darling, Mignonette

Sweet Little Darling, Mignonette

Every spring I pass these little darlings (Mignonettes in French) on my walks and never is it the right timing to pick them. I saved seeds and tried yo grow them by my house with no success. This morning I took advantage of my new daily commute (by car, unfortunately), and started my first enfleurage project for the year: Reseda vegan enfleurage.


It's one of the most magical and ellusive wildflower scents. The leaves smell like goosefoot and tomato absolue (green and icky!), yet the flowers are powdery-green violets mingled with creamy tuberose and orange blossom.  

Let's see how these pan out... I, for one, am curious if not dangerously hopeful. 

Enfleurage Mini-Course

Enfleurage Mini-Course

Ever wished that Lilac season lasted a little longer or wanted to capture the scent of your garden and just bottle it? This is a dream you can make true as long as you have access to an ample supply of fresh flowers, and a few everyday tools and materials that are readily accessible.

Enfleurage is a labour-intense art form, in which the scent exhaled by living flowers is captured and preserved. It is one of the most rewarding projects, that once you understand the principles of, you could set off on your own to extract from many fragrant flowers, and truly connects you to the earth, the seasons and the beautiful world of scent. 

An Enfleurage Mini-Course is offered this spring via Zoom, and includes three one-hour sessions in which we'll learn the principles of preparing traditional yet vegan enfleurage, extraction and also two less known methods of capturing flowers beauty for years to come. 

Students receive a written Enfleurage Primer with all the materials and equipment necessary for this process, as well as a list of recommended botanicals, and access to the 3 enfleurage live Zoom classes and their recording, which will demonstrate each step of the process. 

The course begins this week, Thursday, May 27th, and takes place from 4:00-5:00pm Israel time.  

New Service: Seasonal Subscription Boxes

New Service: Seasonal Subscription Boxes


Ever wanted to be a fly on the wall in a perfumer's lab? This is the next best thing! Get a whiff of what's brewing in Ayala Moriel Parfums studio each season, which is not only perfume! I also create incense, soaps and natural cosmetics from the best ingredients on the planet, fragrant teas and even chocolates! 

If you follow my feeds (on Instagram and Facebook), you probably already noticed that I just love plants and love growing, harvesting and handcrafting beautiful things from them. Some are fragrant, such as incense, enfleurage, and hysrosols, but are not exactly feasible to produce in large amounts as they are so precious and time-consuming to extract, and are truly too precious to offer regularly in my selection at the online boutique. At the same time, what's the point of making them if I can't share them with you?

And so I've decided to leverage my various interests and experimentations with anything plant-related, to bring to you one-of-a-kind packaging for these seasonal delights. These are bundles of joy and delight, each a surprise that is carefully curated each season, and although all are made by one pair of hands, I believe they will be just as versatile and surprising as any subscription box you could dream of. 

Therefore, you won't be getting boxes per-se, but rather, packaging that is handmade, beautiful, sustainable and reusable - Furoshiki from up cycled fabrics, locally made botanical Japanese-style paper (a collaboration with a local artisan), and last but not least - eco-printed natural fabrics and baskets that I weave from wild and local plants I harvest and forage around my beautiful studio in Clil, in the Western Galilee of Israel.
The Summer Subscription box is schedule to be ready to travel to you in June, so that you have it in time to celebrate the Summer Solstice. The following seasonal mailouts are planned to coincide with the Autumnal EquinoxWinter Solstice and Vernal Equinox in the spring. 

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