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Now Smell This Reviews Etrog

"A must-smell for serious citrus lovers (...)"

Robin of Now Smell This reviews Etrog Oy de Cologne:

"It starts as a gloriously zesty honeyed citrus, and slowly turns greener and woodier, and takes on an almost herbal cast. What starts as a hint of light and airy incense in the early stages develops into a rich resinous base which lingers for hours, and the citrus lingers on for much of that time as well(...) this is what I’d like my pillow to smell like, all summer long".

The discussion among NST's readers is interesting as well - the inevitable issue of price came up, and Robin's response reflects the shift that's happening among perfume and fragrance consumers: they are becoming more interested in handcrafted products, which not only allows them to connect more personally with their creator - but also seems like a better use for their money.

"...must say that *if* I’m going to pay more, I mind much less when it’s for an indie product where the perfumer is doing their own tincturing and what not. At least you’re paying for something that matters instead of advertising & so on and so forth..."

Etrog on Fragrantica & Now Smell This



Ida Meister (whom you may know by her perfumista screen name Chaya-Ruchama) has reviewed my newest fragrance, Etrog Oy de Cologne, on Fragrantica.
Now Smell This announced Etrog earlier this week as well. Thank you, Robin!

Want to add your own review of Etrog? You can do so on Make Up Alley!
We will have a lucky draw for an Etrog mini among those who post a review of it (draw date: July 31st).

Etrog Oy de Cologne



Just in time for Father's Day, our new Etrog Oy de Cologne is now available online!

Due to its delicate flavour and sweet perfume, citron (Citrus medica, or Etrog in Hebrew) garnered mythical significance like no other citrus fruit. It is one of the 4 species in Sukkot, alongside myrtle, willow and palm. Etrog symbolizes the heart, and is said to represent a complete, balanced person: one who has both knowledge and learning, as well as good deeds.

And like all good things, citron fruit is rare, and its essences is even more difficult to find. Therefore, the perfumer had to tincture her own: fresh organic fruit was tinctured by her family in Israel, and the rabbi of downtown Vancouver donated his family's Etrogim for 3 consecutive years. Thanks to this community effort - the first "Oy de Cologne"!

Ayala Moriel's Etrog Oy de Cologne is a modern twist on a timeless classic: citron zest is paired with pomelo peel to accentuate its subtle floral-citrus aroma, alongside green myrtle and Japanese mint to balance its fruity sweetness. Balsam poplar buds created a honeyed, pulp-like texture alongside Australian lemon myrtle and citron leaves. Ancient olive and incense resins make a lasting impression.

Families: Citrus, Citrus Floral

Top notes: Citron (Etrog) Tincture, Japanese Mint, Pomelo Peel Tincture, Green Myrtle

Heart notes: Balsam Poplar Buds, Lemon Myrtle, Petitgrain Cedrat, Honey Absolute

Base notes: Frankincense , Olive Tree Resin, Ambergris, Opoponax

Precious Fruit

Last week has flown by without even a glimpse of a chance to tell you about the progress of my Etrog perfume. The big breakthrough was, of course, finding the right heart note. But there is more fine-tuning that had to be done with the top notes and the base notes. Finding the right balance and also searching for a few missing elements. It was still lacking in some brightness, and needed more body and substance from both the base and the heart (for fixative quality - i.e. longevity - and also for more interest).

I was contemplating adding yuzu, aka Japanese citron (Citrus junos) to keep along with the citron theme. But the scent is so different from that of the cedrat or etrog citron (Citrus medica) that although I used it in previous mods (before obtaining the citron peel oil) - I quickly neglected the idea. The etrog is so subtle anyway, it's best to keep things simple with only the three types of Etrog essences I have (2 types of tinctures, and one essential oil) plus the pomelo (Citrus maxima) tincture.

As for the heart - it needed more depth, but also more brightness. The balsam poplar buds are so resinous and thick they threaten to steal the show! Etrog has began to smell more honeyed and ambery than planned. So, to cure the problem, I decided to intensify that effect with some real honey absolute on the basis of "Similia simelibius curentur", but it still needed some brightness, which was originally achieved with litsea cubeba. And for unknown reason, it felt wrong. I was hovering right next to it exploring other similar essences, and unearthed the very little bit of citron petitgrain that Mandy has given me when I visited her in Berkeley (she describes it as smelling like Meyer lemon blossoms!), and lemon myrtle that my brother Yotam brought me from Australia and I've never actually used in any of my perfumes (except for something I blended for him eons ago). They all got along marvelously, and also satisfied my geeky desire to keep with the Sukkot theme: myrtle and citron, both being part of the 4 species of the holiday. Sometimes, the simplest solutions lie right in front of your nose...

Last but not least, came the testing phase. The reason why in the photo above you're seeing what looks like a completed perfume (although it's not!), with label and spray and all, is because I had to test it in the spray form. And the reason why it's lying right next to a big fuzzy fragrant quince, is because I find quince and citron very similar to one another. Both have mythical tales surrounding them, unique aroma and medicinal properties hidden behind a rather modest (or even rustic and slightly unappealing look, in the case of Yemenite citron, or the fuzzy quince). These are the kind of fruit that fairy tales were woven about that if you're ill, the smell of this one special fruit will cure all ailments. That's been always my on my mind when creating the Etrog perfume.

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