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Caléche

Caléche, Hermes' first fragrance, somehow eluded me and I never gave it much thought. Perhaps I was not sophisticated enough to appreciate it till now. I am easily blinded by ornate bottle designs of the Art Deco style, and mesmerized by the decadent stories that often accompanied them. Somewhere down the rabbit hole of exploring vintage floral bouquets, I have decided to give this one a try. The following are my impressions based on a vintage EDT I found in a flea market as a part of a fancy wooden coffrett, comprised of fragrances from several different classics, which based on the lineup, I assume is from the late 80s.  

Caléche is a refined, sophisticated and quite an old-fashioned perfume, in the sense that it is a Chypre with such strong floral leanings and a relatively heavy sprinkle of aldehydes on top, that it may be easily mistaken for an aldehydic floral fragrances. It reveals many layers of richness, and quality of materials that is rarely seen in the current releases makes a world of a difference - a sensation that lingers and is being felt throughout the perfume's performance. 

Caléche has a classic Chypre Floral structure, centred around sensual white florals that are softened and blurred by candied violets, and a generous dose of aged sandalwood which are perhaps the perfumer's Guy Robert's special signature. It gives off a feeling of luscious, smooth and luxurious silk fabric, dyed and printed with rich colours and romantic designs. 

The white flowers - gardenia, orange blossom, jasmine, ylang ylang, are all very tasteful and not at all vulgar. The sandalwood softening and enveloping like a silk wrap, and the sweetness from the flowers and violets balanced by additional, dry and sharp woody notes of vetiver and cypress.  

I think it is a classic case of Chypre Floral - even with its robust old-growth oakmoss, it still smells very floral. And anyone attempting to compose this genre, would find that when adding up so many white florals, they truly shine and take over the composition. Yet unlike other floral creations, there would be a lot of depth once the flowers fade out. Another recurring theme in many retro aldehydic florals (and Chypre) is a smooth and woody vetiver at the base. Here it especially smooth and soft, with all the sandalwood mentioned before. I am very curious to smell how the perfume extrait would play out with this one. 

Top notes: Aldehydes, Neroli, Bergamot, Mandarin

Heart notes: Orris, Ylang Ylang, Gardenia, Jasmine, Rose, Lily of the Valley

Base notes: Oakmoss, Sandalwood, Olibanum, Amber, Musk, Vetiver, Cypress, Tonka Bean, Cedar, Coumarin

Coco

Coco

Everything about Coco the fragrance is regal and at the same time artificial. It brings me back to a long gone era when people would dress up to go out and be seen (and smelled) in public, and would take an extra effort going to a grand event, be it the opera or the cinema (remember those?). A whiff of Coco eau de toilette throws me immediately to a concert hall at the Tel Aviv Museum of Art with my grandmother. Back in the 80s and 90s when Coco was in vogue and so many ladies would wear it on a night out, clad with big chunky jewellery, bling leather purses, and shoulder pads, of course. 

The review here is for the parfum, which I have smelled a couple of decades ago and experienced as very almondy, and it did not string that chord of listening to chamber music in my youth; so I have never quite fallen for it. The eau de toilette never was quite “me”, despite this fond place I had for it bringing back memories of quality time spent with Ms. Ruth Moriel in Tel Aviv. 

So here I am in 2022, 38 years after this perfume came out, re-evaluating my relationship with it as part of my research of the Opulent fragrance family for my students. I have scoured the web (because, like concert-going, perfume shopping in this day and age is prohibited, unless one is bio-branded by a vaccine); plus Coco is no longer is available widely, being replaced by its many flankers and imitators). I dove head first into a vintage flacon that arrived from Russia in a weathered box, yet the flacon inside was sealed and in pristine condition, inviting me to viciously peel away its skin-like seal and cut the black cotton string. The golden juice within the cut-glass bottle smells like a jewel, and with ease that greatly surprised me, I was tempted to dab and re-apply as I write and marvel at it. 

What strikes me at first is its structure, and how despite its singular, unique elements, it is after all a classic Opulent-Spicy perfume, with the mellis accord of patchouli-eugenol lubricated by balsams, fleshed-out by florals, and uplifted by a generous dose of citrus, of course; and how it echoes the magnificent Opium which preceded it by seven years. Both have that mandarin opening, bright and rich orange blossom to match it, sheer cool-warm spiciness, and finally, a pronounced opoponax resin that is so addictive, plum-like and rich. 

Coco stands alone, somewhat snobby in the best Chanel tradition, but with a lot more presence and boldness than any of the other ones from the same house. It is Opulent indeed, in a way that is almost out of character for the house that prides itself with austere, orris and aldehyde-clad creations. It is definitely a Chanel with shoulder pads, at the opera or a gala concert, clapping hands quite enthusiastically but making friends only with few, who would mostly keep her company while she smokes. 

And the smoke is, indeed, the part that makes Coco stand out. Cascarilla, a Caribbean bush whose bark is used to flavour cigars, give it a peculiar note that could be either charming or off-putting. Either way it is intriguing. But I will let you decide. It alludes to tobacco and leather, and creates interest. Ditto with the angelica note - this one is not green, but rather smoky and musky, adding another element of surprise. Because otherwise, it is a rather conformist Opulent-Spicy, just equipped with a cigarette. 

Every time I dive back into my Coco flacon, I come back with another impression. At one time I’m noticing a lot of linalool and tropical floral notes, reminiscent of suntan lotion — but that’s just the surface, and won't last long enough to make Coco a Floramber (although some may be tempted to call it so, or even call it a “Spicy Floral”, which is in my opinion a misunderstanding of the genre - Opulents always have copious amounts of florals, but that does not make them a floral perfume). This aspect of Coco implies softness, femininity, fun… This is just a mask though for what comes next. Or perhaps just a sign of an unfocused composition. 

Another dab may bring to the fore its intense tuberose-orange blossom notes, bold and artificial in the manners of the 80s (Poison and Giorgio spring to mind, the former even more so because of the prominent tuberose-opoponax accord). It is saved from being vulgar by tonka bean, which creates a soft-focus effect that also helps pull all the elements together, as well as mellow woody notes of sandalwood and vetiver, which give creaminess and depth. Which makes me finally understand the connection between the original and its Noir flanker - which is a sort of a Fruitchouli, dominated by vetiver and jasmine and dark fruits. Both version have that fruity aspect, by the way, of stewed and spiced plums or poached pears in a spicy wine. 

Yet somehow, despite all these different directions pulling my attention, Coco manages to stay balanced and beautiful, and somehow this array of seeminglyy mismatched notes maintains tension and presence all the way to the drydown. It is not linear per se, but in each phase, the same melange of both classic and quirky notes emerge, for another round of card games.

Coco may be a bit indecisive, but that is only because there are so many beautiful things to explore. And that’s precisely the character of Coco parfum — contradictory, over-indulgent, a loud fragrance that commands respect even if it could have been just as easily been ridiculed. 

Top notes: Frangipanni, Mimosa, Mandarin, Coriander,

Heart notes: Orange Blossom, Rose, Jasmine, Cascarilla Bark, Allspice, Tuberose, Honey

Base notes: Opoponax, Angelica, Patchouli, Vetiver, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Benzoin, Musk, Civet 

Z'bad

Z'bad

Z'bad, Zebad or Zubad, Zabād, Sinnawr al-Zabād simply means civet in Arabic, and is the origin of this word in Western world (Civet, civette, zibet and zibetum are some of its Western spellings). In the Arab world, civet paste is still used today in its raw form, as an aphrodisiac, and a hair grooming product: to smooth and scent eyebrows, moustache and beard, as well as treatment for hair loss and various other folkloric uses. If you understand Arabic, this video explains how it is used also. But Z'bad is also a perfume type, just as "White Musk" is a type of fragrance nowadays, and not just one literal ingredient. Although civet is the key ingredient that gives it its character, it is not the only one. Z'bad was used to protect against the evil eye, so it is a magical concoction as well as an aphrodisiac.

I first heard about Z'bad from Dan Riegler (Apothecary's Garden), who have found it in an old perfumery and apothecary in the midst of a Souk in Yemen. I was both intrigued and hesitant about purchasing it because it was a bit unclear to me at the time what this was - aged civet paste or an authentic Yemeni perfume, and since I don't use the former in my creations, it seemed superfluous to make such a purchase.

When I stumbled upon this article about The Painted House and heard from Ayelet Bar-Meir that the Yemeni artist used this mysterious perfume and that it was a strong memory she left with her children and grand children, I knew I had to try it for myself. Dan has kindly gifted me with two jars, and I'm so thankful he did. The Z'bad that Dan found in Yemen is indeed not just aged civet but a full perfume, a solid paste of civet mingled with camphor, spices and that has aged and mellowed for decades.

In Dan's own words, "Z'bad is a potent traditional Yemenite Civet based perfume mix, used for hundreds of years among the Yemenite Jews, but abandoned by younger generations, Z'bad, or Zabad, doubled as a prophylactic against the evil eye, which may also be a contributing factor to its decline in popularity(...)". Which fits right in with what I read about Afia's use of it in that article, and what Ayelet has spoken about.

I received the Z'bad while I was still in Canada, and made great efforts (over the course of four weeks!), to not open the jar till I entered The Painted House. I wanted to have a very specific place association and emotional memory with it. And trying it on first at the house of a woman who lived with similar fragrances and put great care to incorporate them into her daily rituals. It was at first surprisingly fresh, and surprisingly familiar: a burst of camphor and spearmint emerges from the jar as I first uncorked it and smeared some of the dense, rich salve onto the back of my hand.  It had strong banknotes of balsams and civet, but nevertheless there was a surprisingly green, minty, camphoreous freshness to it for the first few minutes. It was a tad medicinal, but not as medicinal as Tiger Balm (which is what the uninitiated nose might dismiss it as at first sniff). There are also earthy qualities, almost musty-dusty, which makes me wonder if there isn't some patchouli oil in there as well, or more likely - a kind of infusion of the dried leaves. I have very little knowledge of how these traditional perfumes I made, but from the little I know about Arab aesthetics, just as the oud oil is used as the "base oil" for other ingredients, in this case it is not unlikely that the civet paste was infused with several resins, spices and herbs to create this rich perfume preparation. I'm also smelling cedar, which gives it a rather pervasive dryness in the opening hour of so on the skin. Perhaps even a hint of myrrh or opoponax. There are no flowers to be smelled in this, but it is unnecessary. There is so much indole in the civet that it really blooms on the skin, and develops into this luscious, purring animalic-balsamic presence for hours on end afterwards. It is not overmpoering at all, but simply becomes part of my skin.

Youth Dew & Z'bad

In both its scent and consistency, Z'bad reminds me a lot of vintage Youth Dew solid perfume in a vintage necklace I have that is probably not that different in age. It seems like Z'bad was the inspiration for Youth Dew, as well as its predecessor Tabu. Both rely heavily on civet, and have a distinctively heavy-sweet-cloying-exotic character that is heavily inspired by the Orient. To Westerners that never smelled the original, these two must have been earth-shuddering at the time, and immensely original. And they are in their own rights. But they wouldn't be around without this Arabian unguent.

Likewise, the evocative packaging and thicker liquid in the Western Orientals - Tabu, Youth Dew, Opium, Obsession and Shalimar - is created in such way as to recreate the ritual of applying a thick paste to the eyebrows, nape of the neck and perhaps other unmentionable strategic spots. The richness of materials create a heavy veil of scent that is highly intimate, personal and also precious. It does not need to be applied in great quantity, and ironically - the economy in which is can be used is part of its luxury and appeal.

Intimate


There is a box of decants that I kept from the days when perfume trading was fun and exciting, and collecting more vials than I will ever need in my lifetime didn't feel burdensome. There was the thrill of the hunt, and the wonderful feeling of being taken care of when someone you only knew by their screen name and fragrance wardrobe sent you a surprise in the mail with vintage perfumes that smelled like nothing you ever smelled before... That was of course, before I smelled too many perfumes, before each year offered over 500 new releases, and I became too jaded and selective about what I put under my nose.

In a moment of olfactory boredom last night, I unearthed a roll-on with vintage Intimate in its vintage form (Revlon, 1955). The concentration is not specified, but judging from it lasting well into the next morning, I imagine it's at least an eau de toilette.

Intimate is a softly-spoken echo Miss Dior's green-floral-animalic-Chypre; a hazy mirror image of its New Look glam. There are green aldehydes at the top, but they've lost their sharp edge (possibly through aging and mellowing, but even still, comparing to the vintage Miss Dior I have they are less intense).

Intimate is definitely from the same genre (Chypre Floral Animalic, and sporting some definitive green notes), yet has a softer, powderier character right from the the start (a trait that is only evident in Miss Dior if you really pay close attention somewhere around the second act). It has edgy, woody-herbaceous notes peeking underneath, making the greenery less obvious. There is an aldehdic wisp at the opening as well. Mingled with the orris this creates a blending illusion, like smudging and blending pastel crayons that obscures the shapes of jasmine and rose that were just drawn moments ago. One can't quite tell when the jasmine and rose end and the oakmoss, sandalwood and cedarwood begin. The woods create a dry feel, a sort of temporary cleanliness. An animalic power roars from underneath, with the carcass of castoreum and the concentrated piss of civet create a dark, musky-sweet epilogue.

This phase dissipates faster than I would have liked it to, turning into a vintage Revlon lipstick scent, like the ones I would try on from my grandmother's dresser. My grandma always dressed elegantly, so lipstick was the only way to tell she's going somewhere importatn (work included, and she worked well into her 70s, and continued freelancing even after she officially retired). And if it was somewhere social, there will also be a dap of perfume or some Eau de Cologne splashing.

The drytdown (as observed the next morning) has a sweet and smooth amber and a musk compound that bears some fruity, berry-like qualities. Oakmoss is still there as well as a hint of greenery. Overall, there is a soft, close-to-the-skin feeling that's exactly what I would like in a perfume from the night before: a sweet reminder that something wonderful happened last night, but without having all your clothes reeking of it or making you want to wash it off. You could easily apply something else on top, or go for a second round.

Intimate is beautifully constructed and elegant, and smells sexy in a down-to-earth kind of way. If I didn't know who made it I would think it is a French perfume - it skips the loud statements that American fragrances so often have (both in sillage and tenacity) and instead offers a more nuanced perfume that even if it isn't a groundbreaker for its time, it is very well done and wonderfully enjoyable. The bottle in the ad shown perfectly conveys its style and class, which will be evident even if you are blindfolded and can't see it.

Top notes: Green Aldehydes, Bergamot
Heart notes: Jasmine, Rose, Orris, Cedarwood, Sandalwood
Base notes: Oakmoss, Civet, Castoerum, Musk, Amber

Studio Re-Opening Sale

Clil Art Crawl 29.12.2017
As part of re-opening at the new studio location across the world, I'm offering for sale many special perfumes that have been part of my creative process over the years - olfactory sketches and perfumer's liquid drafts, that are too beautiful to hide and stash away. Make one of them yours!

Perfumer's sketches + vintage testers for sale, from 17 years of perfuming at Ayala Moriel Parfums - several of these were part of our moving sale and many others were added after unpacking all the liquid treasures in the new space in Clil.

after many years of creating custom perfumes I realize that if clients don't reorder (or even bother to pick up their signature perfume) - I can no longer keep it for them either.
If 7 years have passed, I reserve the right to repackage/resell to someone else...

One-Of-A-Kind Perfumer's Sketches (1/2oz lab bottles):

Amber & Ginger
Pre-cursor to Zangvil, an ambery-gourmand fragrance; a bit darker and sweeter than Zangvil, containing Immortelle absolute (Helicrsyum).
15mL $60

Rose & a Thorn 
Green rosy Chypre with antique patchouli, hyraceum, osmanthus, Japanese rose, violet and curry leaf. Melancholy yet grounded.
7.5mL $69

Assam Oud
Animalic-boozy oud with a spicy garam-masala finish...
Notes of Sandalwood, labdanum, patchouli, helichrysum, honey, spices, ruh gulab (Traditional Indian steam-distillation of roses), jasmine, ylang and a garam masala accord.
4ml $20

Audrey series 
Chypre with oakmoss, patchoui, hay and vanilla, exotic floral heart of tuberose, jasmine and osmanthus, and intriguing top notes of curry leaf, lime and citrus. Each has a bit of its own twist though.

Audrey No. 2 - Chypre Fresh, bright and refreshing, with notes of lime, jasmine, curry leaf, oakmoss, hay and basil.
15mL $60

Audrey No. 7 - Chypre Fruity, with notes of osmanthus, jasmine, ylang ylang, rose, orris, garam masala, curry leaf.
15mL $60

Black Licorice No. 2
A sequel to our classic candy-inspired fragrance. This one has a hint of orange blossom,
15mL $40

Bright Angel
Fresh, green and naturally musky angelica soliflore. With notes of clary sage, ambrette seed,

Cacao Anise
Rich gourmand fragrance whose charm lays in its simplicity. Cacao absolute, coffee, honeyed, vanilla, marzipan and anise notes. Yum.
10mL $30

Chocolate Pernod
Delicious gourmand of boozy Pernot (anise liquor), mingled with créme de cacao, honey, almonds and powdery vanilla sugar.
10mL $30

CocoaNymph Berry 
Highlighting the berry and wine-like aromas of cacao absolute. Notes of cacao, dark patchouli, botanical musks, geranium, tuberose, yang yang, davana, cassis, blood orange and pink peppercorns.
(created 2010)
15mL $60

Frangipanni 
Frangipanni (Plumeria) soliflore. Delicate tropical flower with waxy, suave and skin-like tones.
7.5mL

Gentille Alouette
Sophisticated, whimsical, gentle yet elegant floral with boronia, tuberose, orange blossom, jasmine and rose.

Gentille Alouette 1
Delicate floral bouquet over incense and Asian spices.
Notes: Sandalwood, frankincense, tarragon, orange blossom, jasmine, tuberose, violet, boronia, rose, lavender, grapefruit, blood orange, fresh ginger and star anise.
7.5mL $65

Gentille Alouette 2
Like a walk in the forest with whimsical wreath on the head and leis of tropical flowers from the jungle. A dash of Asian spices for an elegant balance.
Notes: Fir absolute, sandalwood, frankincense, tonka, tarragon, orange blossom, jasmine, tuberose, violet, boronia, rose, lavender, grapefruit, blood orange, fresh ginger and star anise.
6mL $60

Gentille Alouette 3
Powdery floral with swirls of Japanese incense, overdose of orange blossom and hints of the other florals mentioned before.
Notes: Hinoki, sandalwood, tonka bean, fir absolute, frankincense, tarragon, orange blossom, jasmine, tuberose, violet, boronia, rose, lavender, grapefruit, blood orange, fresh ginger and star anise. 
7.5mL $60

Geranium & Cacao
The name says it all. Rosy geranium leaves nestled in a sweet cacao and amber base. What else you should know is that the base also has botanical musks and sweet benzoin; some lemon drops at the heart alongside the geraniums, and lavender, grapefruit and bergamot at the top to give it a lighthearted freshness.
7.5mL $28

Ginger & Amber 
Pre-cursor to Zangvil, an ambery-gourmand fragrance. Light, honeyed, delicious and slightly floral. Notes of honey,
(24.05.2008) 5mL $15

Honeysuckle & Curry Leaf
Lovely and original floral green with milky undertones.
Inspired by the random juxtaposition of honeysuckle in bloom on the streets of San Francisco and a marvellous coconut dessert in a Southern Indian restaurant, decorated by crystallized fresh curry leaf. Notes of massoia, sandalwood, honeysuckle, tuberose, narcissus, rhododendron, kaffir lime leaf and curry leaves.
15mL $150

Hygeia Series
Series of fragrances of clean and natural Mediterranean fragrances,, inspired by the Greek Godess Hygeia. Notes of olive, myrrh, cistus, orange flower and other historical Mediterranean plants prevail in all three versions offered, with slight variations in the proportions.

Hygeia No. 2
Notes of myrrh, Haitian vetiver, honey, cistus, lemon leaf, olive leaf, violet leaf, orange flower water absolute, bayberry, juniper and lime.
7.5mL $30

Hygeia No. 3 
Notes of Haitian vetiver, myrrh, saffron, cistus, honey, orange flower water, neroli, violet leaf, olive leaf and olive fruit, bayberry, petitgrain, juniper, coriander and citrus rind.
7.5mL $30

Hygeia No. 4
Notes of Saffron, myrrh, Haitian vetiver, cistus, honey, jasmine, orange flower water, neroli, violet leaf, olive leaf and olive fruit, petitgrain, juniper, coriander, bitter orange and other citrus.
7.5mL $30

Incense & Chocolate
A perfume that combines elements of two ancient rituals of offerings - burning of incense, and drinking a sacred beverage (hot cocoa, consecrated wine, etc.) as offering to the gods. Both the burning of fine incense and consuming (responsibly!) quality dark chocolate can be practiced as daily moments to easily create a sanctuary anywhere and anytime for mindfulness and self-care.
So exhale all your worries, uncork this bottle of magic and breath in the aroma of dark chocolate, olibanum, prehistoric fossilized amber resin, oak wood, champaca, cardamom and oud.

Jasmine Pho
Inspired by a good cup of Pho and Lab-style vat of the beloved limited edition.
15mL $60

Patchouli & Camphor
The scent of antique Indian mahogany chest filled with fabric treasures preserved with botanicals such as camphor and aged patchouli leaves and cedarwood shavings.
(2012)
7.5ml $15

Noriko
Delightful and delicate Japanese bouquet of honeysuckle, osmanthus, magnolia, Japanese rose (Rosa rugosa) and orange blossom with top notes of yuzu and base notes of hinoki, siamwood and Indian sandalwood and Kyara.
15mL $120

Tea Olive
Lovely osmanthus soliflore!
Luscious, delicate fruity-floral with the distinctive and rare osmanthus aroma of apricots, tea and hints of leather backed up by jasmine, gardenia, tea rose, ginger, vanilla and milky oolong. Top notes of ruby red grapefruit make it sparkle.
10mL $96

Tea Rose
Soliflore hybrid tea rose - which is more fruity and violet-like than the Damascus and Centifolia roses.
Tea Rose perfume celebrates the bliss of Asian roses. The sheer quality of Chinese tea rose (rosa odorata) and Japanese rose (rosa rugosa) is highlighted by osmanthus, green tea, cassie and a hint of musk. Tea Rose is a harmonious, sweet rosy perfume with violet and tea accents.
Notes include: Cassis, Tea Rose, Japanese Rose, Osmanthus, Green Tea, Ambrette Seed, Vanilla
7.5mL $26

Thé Vert
Refreshing and subtle green tea fragrance, with tea leaves, sandalwood, lemongrass, honey, citrus notes and hints of freshly grated ginger and green peppercorn.
(created 2003) 10ml $15

Violetta Cacao
Violets and dark chocolate. An unusual match, both haunting, sensual and delicate.
Limited edition in a lab vat.
Top notes: Bergamot , Ginger Lily
Heart notes: Violet Leaf, Japanese Rose, Jasmine Egypt,  Orris Root, Rose Absolute (Turkey),
Base notes: Cocoa Absolute, Cassie ,  Deer's Tongue (Liatrix), Tabac Blond, Patchouli, Tarragon Absolute,  Vanilla Absolute 
10mL $86

Yuzu Rose
Juicy Japanese fruity-floral bouquet of roses, honeysuckle, osmanthus, magnolia and orange blossom with top notes of yuzu zest and pomelo peel.
15mL $120


Perfumer's Sketches & Testers Sale
Cobalt Blue Lab Bottles with Spray (50-60ml capacity, but contents vary so read each item listed carefully): 

Elixir - an herbal Chypre from 2006, 1oz $40

Finjan (2005) Turkish coffee fragrance1oz $60

Democracy Classical ambery Fougere from 2001. 1oz $30 


Cucumber (2002) as cool as its name. Natural fragrance that is as refreshing as cucumber water 20ml $15

Terlona (tropical-inspired, full-bodied fruity cacao with marigold) 20ml $15

Bleeding Hearts - green, fruity floral Chypre with galbanum, ylang ylang, hyacinth, cassis, oakmoss and vanilla. About $15mL $130

Jasmine Stars, 2003, 15mL $130

Eau de Tinkerbelle (2002) a boronia soliflore - about 20ml $140

Libra - lovely remnant from the oldie but goodie Zodiac collection in its very first incarnation.
Contains a vintage sweet pea base (not 100% natural). 2oz (60mL) $60

L'Ecume des Jours first module, with tuberose which I sadly discovered to be a faux later on. Smells lovely all the same. 1oz (30mL) $120


Perfumer's Sketches & Testers Sale


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