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Studio Re-Opening Sale

Clil Art Crawl 29.12.2017
As part of re-opening at the new studio location across the world, I'm offering for sale many special perfumes that have been part of my creative process over the years - olfactory sketches and perfumer's liquid drafts, that are too beautiful to hide and stash away. Make one of them yours!

Perfumer's sketches + vintage testers for sale, from 17 years of perfuming at Ayala Moriel Parfums - several of these were part of our moving sale and many others were added after unpacking all the liquid treasures in the new space in Clil.

after many years of creating custom perfumes I realize that if clients don't reorder (or even bother to pick up their signature perfume) - I can no longer keep it for them either.
If 7 years have passed, I reserve the right to repackage/resell to someone else...

One-Of-A-Kind Perfumer's Sketches (1/2oz lab bottles):

Amber & Ginger
Pre-cursor to Zangvil, an ambery-gourmand fragrance; a bit darker and sweeter than Zangvil, containing Immortelle absolute (Helicrsyum).
15mL $60

Rose & a Thorn 
Green rosy Chypre with antique patchouli, hyraceum, osmanthus, Japanese rose, violet and curry leaf. Melancholy yet grounded.
7.5mL $69

Assam Oud
Animalic-boozy oud with a spicy garam-masala finish...
Notes of Sandalwood, labdanum, patchouli, helichrysum, honey, spices, ruh gulab (Traditional Indian steam-distillation of roses), jasmine, ylang and a garam masala accord.
4ml $20

Audrey series 
Chypre with oakmoss, patchoui, hay and vanilla, exotic floral heart of tuberose, jasmine and osmanthus, and intriguing top notes of curry leaf, lime and citrus. Each has a bit of its own twist though.

Audrey No. 2 - Chypre Fresh, bright and refreshing, with notes of lime, jasmine, curry leaf, oakmoss, hay and basil.
15mL $60

Audrey No. 7 - Chypre Fruity, with notes of osmanthus, jasmine, ylang ylang, rose, orris, garam masala, curry leaf.
15mL $60

Black Licorice No. 2
A sequel to our classic candy-inspired fragrance. This one has a hint of orange blossom,
15mL $40

Bright Angel
Fresh, green and naturally musky angelica soliflore. With notes of clary sage, ambrette seed,

Cacao Anise
Rich gourmand fragrance whose charm lays in its simplicity. Cacao absolute, coffee, honeyed, vanilla, marzipan and anise notes. Yum.
10mL $30

Chocolate Pernod
Delicious gourmand of boozy Pernot (anise liquor), mingled with créme de cacao, honey, almonds and powdery vanilla sugar.
10mL $30

CocoaNymph Berry 
Highlighting the berry and wine-like aromas of cacao absolute. Notes of cacao, dark patchouli, botanical musks, geranium, tuberose, yang yang, davana, cassis, blood orange and pink peppercorns.
(created 2010)
15mL $60

Frangipanni 
Frangipanni (Plumeria) soliflore. Delicate tropical flower with waxy, suave and skin-like tones.
7.5mL

Gentille Alouette
Sophisticated, whimsical, gentle yet elegant floral with boronia, tuberose, orange blossom, jasmine and rose.

Gentille Alouette 1
Delicate floral bouquet over incense and Asian spices.
Notes: Sandalwood, frankincense, tarragon, orange blossom, jasmine, tuberose, violet, boronia, rose, lavender, grapefruit, blood orange, fresh ginger and star anise.
7.5mL $65

Gentille Alouette 2
Like a walk in the forest with whimsical wreath on the head and leis of tropical flowers from the jungle. A dash of Asian spices for an elegant balance.
Notes: Fir absolute, sandalwood, frankincense, tonka, tarragon, orange blossom, jasmine, tuberose, violet, boronia, rose, lavender, grapefruit, blood orange, fresh ginger and star anise.
6mL $60

Gentille Alouette 3
Powdery floral with swirls of Japanese incense, overdose of orange blossom and hints of the other florals mentioned before.
Notes: Hinoki, sandalwood, tonka bean, fir absolute, frankincense, tarragon, orange blossom, jasmine, tuberose, violet, boronia, rose, lavender, grapefruit, blood orange, fresh ginger and star anise. 
7.5mL $60

Geranium & Cacao
The name says it all. Rosy geranium leaves nestled in a sweet cacao and amber base. What else you should know is that the base also has botanical musks and sweet benzoin; some lemon drops at the heart alongside the geraniums, and lavender, grapefruit and bergamot at the top to give it a lighthearted freshness.
7.5mL $28

Ginger & Amber 
Pre-cursor to Zangvil, an ambery-gourmand fragrance. Light, honeyed, delicious and slightly floral. Notes of honey,
(24.05.2008) 5mL $15

Honeysuckle & Curry Leaf
Lovely and original floral green with milky undertones.
Inspired by the random juxtaposition of honeysuckle in bloom on the streets of San Francisco and a marvellous coconut dessert in a Southern Indian restaurant, decorated by crystallized fresh curry leaf. Notes of massoia, sandalwood, honeysuckle, tuberose, narcissus, rhododendron, kaffir lime leaf and curry leaves.
15mL $150

Hygeia Series
Series of fragrances of clean and natural Mediterranean fragrances,, inspired by the Greek Godess Hygeia. Notes of olive, myrrh, cistus, orange flower and other historical Mediterranean plants prevail in all three versions offered, with slight variations in the proportions.

Hygeia No. 2
Notes of myrrh, Haitian vetiver, honey, cistus, lemon leaf, olive leaf, violet leaf, orange flower water absolute, bayberry, juniper and lime.
7.5mL $30

Hygeia No. 3 
Notes of Haitian vetiver, myrrh, saffron, cistus, honey, orange flower water, neroli, violet leaf, olive leaf and olive fruit, bayberry, petitgrain, juniper, coriander and citrus rind.
7.5mL $30

Hygeia No. 4
Notes of Saffron, myrrh, Haitian vetiver, cistus, honey, jasmine, orange flower water, neroli, violet leaf, olive leaf and olive fruit, petitgrain, juniper, coriander, bitter orange and other citrus.
7.5mL $30

Incense & Chocolate
A perfume that combines elements of two ancient rituals of offerings - burning of incense, and drinking a sacred beverage (hot cocoa, consecrated wine, etc.) as offering to the gods. Both the burning of fine incense and consuming (responsibly!) quality dark chocolate can be practiced as daily moments to easily create a sanctuary anywhere and anytime for mindfulness and self-care.
So exhale all your worries, uncork this bottle of magic and breath in the aroma of dark chocolate, olibanum, prehistoric fossilized amber resin, oak wood, champaca, cardamom and oud.

Jasmine Pho
Inspired by a good cup of Pho and Lab-style vat of the beloved limited edition.
15mL $60

Patchouli & Camphor
The scent of antique Indian mahogany chest filled with fabric treasures preserved with botanicals such as camphor and aged patchouli leaves and cedarwood shavings.
(2012)
7.5ml $15

Noriko
Delightful and delicate Japanese bouquet of honeysuckle, osmanthus, magnolia, Japanese rose (Rosa rugosa) and orange blossom with top notes of yuzu and base notes of hinoki, siamwood and Indian sandalwood and Kyara.
15mL $120

Tea Olive
Lovely osmanthus soliflore!
Luscious, delicate fruity-floral with the distinctive and rare osmanthus aroma of apricots, tea and hints of leather backed up by jasmine, gardenia, tea rose, ginger, vanilla and milky oolong. Top notes of ruby red grapefruit make it sparkle.
10mL $96

Tea Rose
Soliflore hybrid tea rose - which is more fruity and violet-like than the Damascus and Centifolia roses.
Tea Rose perfume celebrates the bliss of Asian roses. The sheer quality of Chinese tea rose (rosa odorata) and Japanese rose (rosa rugosa) is highlighted by osmanthus, green tea, cassie and a hint of musk. Tea Rose is a harmonious, sweet rosy perfume with violet and tea accents.
Notes include: Cassis, Tea Rose, Japanese Rose, Osmanthus, Green Tea, Ambrette Seed, Vanilla
7.5mL $26

Thé Vert
Refreshing and subtle green tea fragrance, with tea leaves, sandalwood, lemongrass, honey, citrus notes and hints of freshly grated ginger and green peppercorn.
(created 2003) 10ml $15

Violetta Cacao
Violets and dark chocolate. An unusual match, both haunting, sensual and delicate.
Limited edition in a lab vat.
Top notes: Bergamot , Ginger Lily
Heart notes: Violet Leaf, Japanese Rose, Jasmine Egypt,  Orris Root, Rose Absolute (Turkey),
Base notes: Cocoa Absolute, Cassie ,  Deer's Tongue (Liatrix), Tabac Blond, Patchouli, Tarragon Absolute,  Vanilla Absolute 
10mL $86

Yuzu Rose
Juicy Japanese fruity-floral bouquet of roses, honeysuckle, osmanthus, magnolia and orange blossom with top notes of yuzu zest and pomelo peel.
15mL $120


Perfumer's Sketches & Testers Sale
Cobalt Blue Lab Bottles with Spray (50-60ml capacity, but contents vary so read each item listed carefully): 

Elixir - an herbal Chypre from 2006, 1oz $40

Finjan (2005) Turkish coffee fragrance1oz $60

Democracy Classical ambery Fougere from 2001. 1oz $30 


Cucumber (2002) as cool as its name. Natural fragrance that is as refreshing as cucumber water 20ml $15

Terlona (tropical-inspired, full-bodied fruity cacao with marigold) 20ml $15

Bleeding Hearts - green, fruity floral Chypre with galbanum, ylang ylang, hyacinth, cassis, oakmoss and vanilla. About $15mL $130

Jasmine Stars, 2003, 15mL $130

Eau de Tinkerbelle (2002) a boronia soliflore - about 20ml $140

Libra - lovely remnant from the oldie but goodie Zodiac collection in its very first incarnation.
Contains a vintage sweet pea base (not 100% natural). 2oz (60mL) $60

L'Ecume des Jours first module, with tuberose which I sadly discovered to be a faux later on. Smells lovely all the same. 1oz (30mL) $120


Perfumer's Sketches & Testers Sale


Summer Sage & Honey Soap

Summer Sage Harvest
In the harsh summer conditions, certain plants developed a defence mechanism that prevents them from complete dehydration in the long drought conditions. The Three-Lobed Sage (Salvia fruticosa) is one of them. Naturally, the leaves in the summer produce a different aroma, and seem more concentrated to me. When not covered totally in desert dust, the leaves have a beautiful silvery-yellow-green colour, and are crinkly and "closed". They open in the winter after they get a few gulps of rain; and then will become larger and greener, with the texture turning from dry suede into fresh velvet.

Sage harvest and olive oil infusion (for use in handmade soapmaking)

This particular sage (in Hebrew it can be translated literally into "Triangular Sage" because of its leaf made of three sections), shares many similar actions and properties with the garden/common/culinary sage, or as we call it in Hebrew, מרווה רפואית - literally translated as "medicinal sage" (Salvia officinalis), which is native to Europe. Our sage is actually gentler and safer than the latter, especially because of the lower thujone levels. Thujone interfers with the hormonal activity in the female body especially; and also has neorotixic and hallucinogenic influences when used in high dose.  Thujone in the wormwood plant is what gives the liquor absinthe its hallucinogenic properties.

Sage infusion in olive oil
Sage (S. fruticosa) is one of the most valued plants in the region, and so it is only natural that I wanted to include it in one of my concoctions. It is used for myriads of ailments, mostly using its antiseptic, expectorant and "drying" properties to treat colds, and is also an aid for women who wish to wean their babies from nursing - it dries the milk and saves the agony of breast infection in the process. It also helps with menstrual cramps and pain, and in all matter of indigestion. It also helps to clear and prevent Nephrolithiasis (kidney stones) and to fight fungal infections. It helps to calm the nerves, and used to treat headaches (especially as synergy with other local cure-alls such as za'atar and mint, in an oil infusion rubbed onto the temples). It is also used for anxiety and depression - the latter treated by the flowers, a less-known use of the plant.
As for its skin-related properties - it's a valued antimicrobial, astringent, cleansing and purifying plant, which is good against fungal and bacterial infections, but also eczema and psoriasis. Sage tea is excellent rinse for the scalp and will improve colour for dark hair, as well as give a shine and body to it if used instead of a mainstream conditioner.

Spent Sage Leaf
After I infused the leaves for one month in organic, local, cold-pressed olive oil, I strained the leaves (and composted them, of course).
Late Summer Sage
Another batch of leaves I brewed into a very strong tea, and made into ice cubes. If I didn't do that, all the nutrients and plant matter in the tea would get scorched by the caustic soda in the process of making the lye water.
Sage Tea Ice Cubes

Sage Tea Ice Cubes

Bringing on the Lye!
Once the caustic soda comes in contact with the water, a chemical reaction begins to take place, which generates heat very fast, and melts the ice cubes. Because i used only ice cubes, this lowered the temperature of the lye dramatically, which also results in less damage to the oil phase (once these two are mixed together).
Sage Lye Ice Tea...
The other oils I used in this particular soap are the same as all my soaps - a winning formula of olive oil, coconut, palm and castor oils. To this I added oil-infusion of myrrh and frankincense resins (added at the very end of the saponification process, which prevents their demolition by the lye), and honey. This was left for 48 hours before unwrapping the moulds (I use 1L milk cartons as my moulds - a great way to reuse something that would have otherwise be thrown directly to the trash; an also saves me miles of wax paper and rinsing and washing).
Sage & Honey Soap
I panicked at first because of the white crystals that formed on the top. I was certain that they were lye flakes that didn't melt. After consulting with my soap mentor, and testing, I was much relieved to learn that they are just soap crystals.

How this soap bar smells was a big surprise to me: it smells almost edible, in an earthy, wholesome kind of way. Not like candy but a little bit like honey cake. If you love a bar of soap that smells sweet and spicy but not in a conventional Christmas candle or cinnamon bun style - this is definitely for you!
Sage & Honey Soap Bar with Frankincense & Myrrh Resins
The soaps are hand-sliced and left to cure for a month. They will be ready a month later, on November 10th. You can pre-order them online though - I only have 16 bars so if you love sage and honey and incense, you want to make sure you got one set aside for you!

Early Beginnings

Perfumer's Garden - Mountain Path

Do not mistake my lack of posting for lack of action. It's been quite the opposite - the most action-packed few months of my life. Here is what I've accomplished - to put your minds at ease and satisfy any curiosity that might have remained among those of you who haven't given up on SmellyBlog yet:

- Designed, planned agonized over and built a new Perfume studio, Pilates studio - and renovated my old home) while making new friends with the builders and architects involved
- Lived in a yurt for 4 months (November through March) while I was at it - and also found myself adopting a cat of all creatures (not intentional, but seems to work out)
- Transitioned my daughter into a Hebrew-speaking high school for another two years of education
- Moved from the yurt to the house
- Adopted a rescued female Doberman (that was a dream come true)
- Taught two Perfumery Courses back to back: Fougere and Orientals (while meeting with Dan Riegler - a Canadian- Israeli from Ontario who gifted me with the most incredible incense resins imaginable - more on that in a separate post
- Became auntie to one more niece and nephew (that was quite effortless!)
- Continue to try and establish my perfumery studio (and Pilates studio) in the new surroundings
- Try my best to be with my grandma, who's 93 years young and had a heart event about a month ago. Every moment with her is so pure and precious.
- Planning and beginning to plant my Perfumer's Botanical Garden, which is truly taking much of my time and is the main reason I haven't been blogging. The photo above is from the section of it that is on the mountain and is dedicated to fragrant Mediterranean plans and medicine herbs.

I spend very little time around the computer (after months of wifi & electricity-free yurt life and bad battery in my laptop - old habits have been broken to little shreds and I only post quick updates via my phone on my Facebook, Instagram and Twitter accounts)
Hopefully I've gotten to the point when I'm settled down to return to regular blogging - as demanding as life has been all these months, I know deep in my heart that it does do me good to write regularly. It's not just a fragrance/perfumery blog, but also functions as a personal journal to me.
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