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SmellyBlog

I Love Perfume

I love the purity of perfume and their wordless stories
Their condensed intensity and shameless, nameless personalities
Encompassing contradictions, voicing conflicts harmoniously
The way perfume develops with time, grows and blossoms
The way in which it captures a moment in time and imprisons it in a vial.
Rows and rows of vials for each moment exhaled by internal universes only to be inhaled by the external one.
I encapsulate in a bottle all that there is to say. The risk of spillage is unknown to me. Some things are better spilled than spoil in prolonged fermentation in the darkness within.
I love perfumes.
Their song is endless beauty that fades into the air
Their momentarity makes them even more so beautiful

A Refreshing Olfactory Break

The last two weeks have been particularly peculiar and appropriately gloomy for the time of year. It all started one morning when I detected a musty, earthy aroma in the water when brushing my teeth. It was very early in the morning and I put that information at the back of my head. We drink spring water anyways, so it wasn’t until a few hours later, when I wanted to take a bath, that I noticed the intense muddy scent again. It was too late. I was already covered with it, so I decided to go ahead a take a mud bath. Only later in the day I learned that the water reservoir has flooded with an abundance of rain (hardly anything unusual for Vancouver) and the water was full of sediments that the water system has failed to filter for some reason or another (I find reading the news to be a tedious and useless activity for the most part, as they change all the time; the important stuff gets to me anyways, either by adventurous self discovery or by the juicier means of gossip).

It was nice to smell most earth again. I never though I would smell this in Vancouver, as the dirt is covered by many layers of dead leaves and foliage, and is never released, despite the many rains and showers. I love the scent of earth after rain, in fact it is the first scent I missed from back home. But once the novelty of smelling it from my tap water has worn off, all I could notice was the lack of relaxing baths (we all reverted to showers so that we get less dirty when we bathe).

To top this all off, I spent almost the entirety of last week waiting, indoors, for deliveries to come in. After amny mishaps with both the courier and the furniture store, by the very end of the week, the furniture I needed so badly for my perfumery arrived, and are being gradually assembled; AND I am finally the happy owner of the newest MacBook thanks to my beloved boyfriend’s guilt feelings for wrecking my computer (unintentionally, of course) a couple of years ago while cleaning it, something he couldn’t forgive himself until he got me the dream laptop! Thanks for ruining my computer, Darling! It was worth the wait. I know I can trust you to wreck it again when this model becomes obsolete ;)

However, before we had enough time to rejoice in the new gadgets, the earliest snow storm in the recent history of the province has emerged, and since Saturday we are enjoying a white city, gradually icing up with black ice and all other sorts of ice and slush and the constant threat of school closures.

It was perhaps that sense of intensely early winter gloom that got me interested for the first time in wearing Jo Malone. The first day I managed to leave the house after the deliveries have arrived, I went to Holt Renfrew and snathed the almost-last Miniature Cologne Collection from the line, containing 6 scents. 3 of which I already knew I had an affection towards, and the other three were meant to be given away as gifsts, or sold on eBay.

I am going to dedicate the following posts to my most favourite of the line, most of which were contained in that handsome little miniature set, and also review the new addition to the line, Blue Agava & Cacao.

Behind the Scents with Tamya Parfum



The first rain in a desert country is something extraordinary. There is a word for it in our language, “Yoreh”. After the dead-dry months of dust and dried straw and broiling sun, the earth responds to the rain gratefully by releasing a haunting aroma and setting free the many seeds that are buried within her. They will sprout as early as the next day, and within a couple of days, the earth is covered with teeny signs of life of many species. The most significant plants, besides the bright green grass against the rich brown soil, are the Autumn Crocuses, aka Sitvanit ha-Yoreh (Sitvanit is from Stav, the Hebrew word for Autumn, and the Yoreh is the first rain). In other words – the Autumn Crocus of the First Rain.

The other species is a type of bluebell, which is called “Rain Bells”. A very modest sibling to the European species, as these flowers are tiny and quite rare. They don’t grow in groups as the European ones do, so one must remember where they emerged in previous years to find them.

After nine months of the best pregnancy I could ever wish for myself (or any other woman), and after 22 hours of labour (which I would happily fast-forward if it was only possible), on October 29th, 1996, at 12:50am, my 9 months and 22 hours odyssey to motherhood had reached its destination, and a beautiful girl took her first breath, which most likely had smelled of a combination of wheat germ oil in a hospital... That very night, the Yoreh had knocked on the roofs of the Western Galilee, and clenched the thirst of the dry earth. Two days later, when we came back home from the hospital, the earth was covered with the spouting grass. My mother and brothers came to visit. The clouds had already cleared (that’s what they do around the Mediterranean), and in the late afternoon and the magic hour just before sunset, the warm Autumnal sun has glowed on our euphoric faces and the little fruit-of-the-womb. We went for a leisurely stroll among the olive orchards and observed the same golden light glowing through the rare petals of Autumn Crocuses and Rain Bluebells with a peaceful feeling of wonderment in our hearts.




I am telling this as I am biting into the last creamy guava that has been scenting my house for the past couple of days. The scent of a guava fruit instantly reminds me of these first weeks ten years ago. The baby and me were fortunate to enjoy the nourishing abundance of Autumn fruit. My mom spoiled me with only the best of them: guavas, anonas (aka custard fruit), persimmons, pomegranates and the very first tangerines of the season – perhaps not quite ripe enough, but no one cares. The first tangerines are a symbol of autumn and the first days of school. They are still rather green on the outside but already ripe enough to enjoy, especially if you are a kid.

In summer 2004, I felt it was time for me to bottle that special magical hour and that magical autumn. I wanted a perfume that would be glowing like the diagonal sunrays just before sunset; I wanted it to be abundantly fruity; I wanted it to be as sweet as a baby’s breath, and tender as the scent of a newborn crown.


Bluebell Singing, originally uploaded by Ayala Moriel.

I overcame the challenge of the composition by using a few unusual essences to compensate for the limited fruity palette of the Natural Perfumery Organ (guava note was out of the question, unfortunately): The precious oil of Yuzu, an exotic Japanese citron with an intensely fruity, citrusy, bright aroma (reminiscent of grapefruit and Clementine combined, but much better) as the main fruity note along with black currant buds absolute. For the heart, I chose mostly white florals, that all have a hint of fruit and are sparkling and lively: Jasmine Sambac, Hyacinth Absolute, Ylang Ylang and Frangipani. The base is milky and musky, with notes of ambrette, Atlas Cedarwood, Sandalwood and a tad of vanilla. The results were an instant success with the first trial. I had to later on eliminate the hyacinth, as it is a very unusual building block and very difficult to find. However, omitting it did not make a significant difference on the perfume. It still smelled like “Tamya”.

The challenge was with picking the name. I was chasing my tail trying to find nice French or Italian names for “Golden Dusk”, “Fruit of the Womb”, etc. Sometimes, the simplest things just stand in front of us and we stare through them blindly… After a while it dawned on me that I should simply use the name of the muse for this perfume: Tamya. And so it remains to this day.


P.s. Image of Sitvanit originally uploaded by Sibboleth

Labyrinth of Choices

Tamya and I were walking this morning in a garden of forking paths in the rainforest. A beautiful day, sunny but not hot, autumnal just enough to wear a sweater without sweating. The dead conifer leaves piling on the ground warmed up to the sun which in return to its warmth had to give away a distinctively sweet chypre aroma. As we approached the forest, and Tamya decided to go in instead of observing the ducks and Canadian geese in the Lost Lagoon. From than on she was the navigator: in each intersection I asked her to make a choice, by either pointing to where she wanted to go or leading us there. This reminded me of how far we have gone since she was little about communicating to me what she wants, and also made me contemplate once more the challenge of making choices, of screening out information, and of structure and discipline versus choice and leisure.

Our hardest days and most difficult times are not during the week, when the routine is rather structured, but rather – in the weekends, when the boundaries are loose, you can choose whatever you want, and there are so many confusing things to choose from. Quite overwhelming, actually, when you think about it.

Imagine this metaphor: Tamya is in a maze. She is not sure what she is doing there. She only knows that she feels terribly uncomfortable. What she sees as options to choose from is not just the next cross of paths but also the possibilities of climbing over the hedges, digging underneath them, trying to go through them, and perhaps even consuming them until an escape hole is formed. Of course these are all excellent possibilities in theory, but these are probably just 4 ideas out of perhaps a hundred that goes through Tamya’s mind in a few seconds, in a state of panic and extreme discomfort. This is no picnic.

Yet, we expect people like Tamya to make choices every day. And we do so because we care. Making choices, also known as decision making, is one of the most important life skills, and as a parent I want my child to learn that skill and be able to survive and live a happy and healthy life. We need to make choices all the time. Helping a young child with autism or a similar challenge (i.e.: anxiety around changes and transitions) to learn that skill is perhaps more important than any other life skill. Choice is what separates us from other forms of existence, and without making choices, the life of my child will be lead by others!

This can be done everyday, simply by helping the child narrow down the options. Do you want to turn left or right? What is your choice – salad or apple? (This is also a known trick to get your child to acquire healthy nutritional habits). Hopefully, the child will gradually develop the tools to recognize a few options out of myriads of possibilities that exist at any given time, and be able to make a choice within a reasonable time frame.


P.s. Comment on this post or on any of the next few Blogala posts over the weekend and I will make a $1 donation per each reader who commented to the Autism Communication Training of BC

Historiography

2001

Spring
Ayala
Coeli
Palas Atena
Bon Zai
Schizm (original formulation, with narcissus)
Moon Breath

Summer
Altruism
ArbitRary
Rainforest
Orcas (discontinued)
White Potion

Fall
Democracy

2002

Winter
Fête d'Hiver
Song of Songs
Altamira (Carnation and Costus - not in production)
l'Herbe Rouge
*V.01 of Indigo
*V.01 of Razala
Petit Parfum
Captive 8 (preliminary sketch of Viola)

Spring
Espionage

Summer
Fetish
Ivy (discontinued)
Lovender
Viola
Yellow (Limited Edition)

Fall
Autumn (Limited Edition)
Ayalitta
Guilt (original formulation, with leathery notes)
Black Licorice
*V.01 of Charisma
*V.01 of Arsenal
*V.01 of Sabotage
*V.01 of Coralle
Serene (ylang ylang and lavender - discontinued)

2003

Spring
Rosebud
Grin (Limited edition with notes of galbanum, orange blossom, sage, basil, rose, jasmine, oakmoss, vetiver)

Summer
Tamya

Fall
Épice Sauvage
Finjan
Megumi
Autumn (Final version - with the addition of cumin note)

2004
Winter
Cabaret


Spring
l'Écume des Jours
Eau de Tinkerbelle (Boronia soliflore, not in production)

Summer
Indigo
Terlona (cocoa and marigold, not in production)

Fall
Rebellius

2005

Spring
Magnolia Petal
Linden Blossom (V.01 of Tirzah - discontinued and to be replaced by Tirzah in Spring 2007)
Charisma (final version, with the addition of Osmanthus note)

2006

Winter
Guilt (final version, with no leather/smoky note)
Schizm (final version, with cepes absolute and orange blossom)

Spring
Grin (new version with notes of galbanum, boronia, rose, jasmine, vetiver and agarwood)
Zohar
Yasmin

Summer
Sabotage
Les Nuages de Joie Jaune
Arsenal

Fall
Kinmokusei
Razala

2007
Autumn
Immortelle l'Amour

Winter

Film Noir
Bois d'Hiver (new version of Fete d'Hiver pour Homme)
Roses et Chocolat (Limited Edition for Valentine's Day)

Spring
Tirzah - Linden Blossom Soliflore (no longer in production)

Summer
Coralle - Ylang Ylang Soliflore

2008
Fall
InCarnation - Carnation Soliflore

Winter
Sahleb - Iris Soliflore

Spring
Gigi - Gardenia Soliflore
Gaucho - Fougère

Summer
Vetiver Racinettes

2009
Spring

Hanami - Urban cherry blossom perfume. Originally designed in 2008 as part of Perfume Inside a Poem project by Memory and Desire blog. Launched in 2009 as a limited edition at Blunda, Los Angeles

Winter
The Purple Dress - Champaca soliflore
Moroccan Tea-Time (Ltd. Edition)
Hinoki (Ltd. Edition)

2010
Winter
Zangvil - amber and ginger

Spring
Frangipanni Gloves - Limited edition frangipanni soliflore, fundraiser for Bloedel Floral Conservatory
Tea Rose (Ltd. Edition)

Summer
Jasmine Pho - Limited edition (originally created in 2009 for Tropical Tea Party)

2011
Winter
Bouquet of Love (Ltd. Edition)
Coco-Lime ((Ltd. Edition)

Spring
New Orleans

Summer
Orcas

Fall
Violets for my Furs (Ltd. Edition)

2012
Autumn
Etrog

Winter
Treazon

 
2013
Spring
Tubéreuse et Violette (Ltd. Edition)

Autumn
Dreaming Parallel (Ltd. Edition)
BlackBeard Oil
 
2014
Autumn
Narkiss

Winter
Musk Malabi

Spring
Sandal Ale (Ltd. Edition)

Violetta Cacao (Ltd. Edition)
2015
2019
2020

2021

2022
Dance of Fire
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