s

SmellyBlog

Correspondence Courses Launching Soon!

Citrus Blossom

This is a time of transition for me and my family, and so I've prepared some provisions in place for students who wish to continue studying even when my courses are on hiatus for the summer (and possibly also for the fall semester).

You can register for the correspondence courses anytime, and complete the entire 8-module program at your own pace. Studying will progress according to the self-study guide that will be sent to you upon registration, which will include:

List of raw materials that are key components for this particular genre (AKA Fragrance Family).
List of tools and equipment you will need for this module.
List of the exercises in the book, and in which order to perform them.
Additional reading materials and links to relevant suppliers.
Additional creative thinking and exercises that are not in the book, and usually take place.
Online support via email or Skype chat - offered up to 6 months from date course was purchased.
Additional sessions via phone or Skype conference are also an option - but require an additional cost (these are billed at $200/hr).
{Future component of the correspondence program (still in the making): Access to online video tutorials, and essence kit for each module}.

The first course I'll be releasing is Citrus & Cologns + Lab 101.

Citrus & Cologne Week May 4-8, 2015

In this module, you will:
  • Learn Basic Lab Procedures & Etiquette
  • Become proficient and confident with the technical aspects of perfume creation and production, including: 
  • Dilutions
  • Tincturing of fresh and dry botanical matter
  • Adding water to an eau de cologne or eau de toilette + problem solving 
  • Scale-up
  • Standardizing Formulae
  • Scale Skills (including levelling, calibration, tare, count function, zeroing, etc.)
  • Basic Smelling Skills, primarily identifying essences 
  • Learn how to follow a formula and measure it properly
  • History of alcoholic perfumes, with focus on Aqua Mirabillis and medieval times 
  • Understand the Cologne type and basic accord 
  • Understand - and be able to recognize via smell - the difference between fragrances from the “Citrus” and “Cologne” genres
  • Understand the sub-categories for the Citrus family (i.e.: Citrus Fresh, Citrus Floral, Citrus Green, Citrus Fantasy, etc.) 
  • Follow and research historic formulae for Eaux de Colognes, i.e. Florida Water, Eau d’Hungarie, Carmelite Water, etc. 
  • Understand and be able to apply basic concepts of formulation, such as top notes, fixative, etc. 
  • Basic composition skills only: add 1-2 ingredients to a given formula, without taking away from it’s existing character (meaning: staying within the genre of Eau de Cologne, Citrus, etc.)
  • Basic manipulation of formulae to make it belong to a sub-category (i.e.: Citrus Floral, Citrus Fresh, Citrus Green, Citrus Fantasy, etc.) 
The course will become available at the end of May. It is now offered at an introductory price at 50% off. In exchange for this generous offer, we ask our first correspondence students to provide feedback about this course format, and be part of making future correspondence modules a comprehensive and excellent option for students of perfumery the world over!

Girls...

Girl

Through many twists and turns two extra teeange-ish girls were brought into my life. So that brings the total female humans in the household to four. Multiply that by 100 and you can get a pretty realistic number for for the amounts of products (some scented, some not) that each of us uses for her beauty regime, fragrance included. Thank goodness there are two bathrooms in my apartment, as we all know that girls don't use them just for straightforward business but for myriad of other mysterious purposes. It makes me think of how raising children is such a risky business - they start all adorable, helpless and easy to control and by their early teens could very possibly morph into a kind of a roommate from hell.

Whenever I feel the slightest urge to complain (like, when I see a cotton swap covered in kohl, hairballs, and myriad varieties of makeup mess) - I remind myself of the days when I was living at my friend Zohar's family. She has 3 more sisters, to with her mom there were 6 ladies in the house (but only one washroom). And it makes me feel ever more thankful and appreciative of their kindness and patience with me at that rough teenaged year of my life.

Now, back to painting that olfactory picture of what's happening right now (and yet again I'm reminded of my friend's many sisters) - every morning (or whenever they decide to wake up) - you'll get a immersed in fruity shampoos, conditioners, hairsprays, deodorants, celebrity perfumes (Brittany Spears Hidden Fantasy is the "everyday" scent around here). A similar regime will take place in the evening if one of us goes out, but then there is a chance that Flowerbomb will be applied as the final touch. And then there is a mystery fragrance of roses of violets that I keep forgetting to ask one of the girls what it is... Plus Miss T takes after her mom and sprays a bedtime perfume almost every night (she hasn't fallen far off the tree). At least she does not get to wear In Control Curious because her mom stocks her up with cult scents such as "Girl Perfume", which is how she calls The Little Prince (which is a harmless, lemony eau de cologne), the classic AnaisAnais, and a designer scent and a celebrity scent I actually quite like - "Pink Bottle Perfume" (KenzoAmour) and Harajuku Lovers "Love", AKA in this household as "Mickey Mouse Perfume".

New Perfume: Lost Lagoon

 Inspired by a hidden garden of azaleas

Lost Lagoon

Happy May Day!
I'm excited to share with you my new perfume for spring and summer: Lost Lagoon.

Every spring, the rhododendrons awaken - first slowly, building anticipation. By early May, they simply burst with colour and aroma, some of the bushes so dense with flowers that you can't even see their leaves and branches...

These fragrant azaleas paint the edges of Lost Lagoon with myriads of flowers of tropical colours and exotic scents as versatile as the number of hybrids planted there: some are reminiscent of lily, others are like ylang ylang and some smell like cool suntan lotion. Bluebells, violets and other bulb flowers and annuals are planted among them; and magnolia, lilac and syringa contribute their luscious perfume to the already fragrant air. Freshly cut grass from the Pitch & Putt is the only reminder you're still in the Northern Hemisphere and not in the tropics...

Lost Lagoon

In case you can't experience this extravagant botanical explosion in person - don't be sad: I've bottled that scent especially for you!

Lost Lagoon is the third installation in "Perfume For A Place" series, which is inspired by my favourite places in Vancouver. This perfume will transport you to a secret lagoon surrounded by tropical flowers. Lost Lagoon is a refreshing Chypre with exotic floral notes of magnolia and ylang ylang and loaded with bergamot and green notes of rhododendron buds, violet leaf and galbanum.



Top Notes: Bergamot, Lemon, Galbanum, Violet
Heart Notes: Rhododendron, Magnolia, Ylang Ylang
Base Notes: Oakmoss, Amber, Iris


Absence

Absence

"C'est drôle, l'absence... Il me semble que Guy est parti depuis des années. Quand je regarde cette photo j'oublie jusqu'à son visage, et quand je pense à lui c'est cette photo que je vois. C'est tout ce qui me reste de lui.
(Absence is a funny thing. I feel like Guy left years ago. I look at this photo, and I forget what he really looks like. When I think of him, it's this photo that I see." 
- Jacques Demy's Geneviève Emery in Le Parapluie de Cherbourg

Absence leaves a negative space that at first feels like a soaring pain. The silence hurts the ears and sends shivers down the spine like creaking chalk on a blackboard; the empty seat is a constant reminder of anticipation for something that cannot be. Every bit of the routine when that person used to participate has the sense of a phantom presence - the mind fills in the gap with an internal dialogues and scripts.

This void is painfully palpable when it has a trail of scent behind it: A grandparent's scent in their home after they've passed away, lingering after their last breath was exhaled - reminding of the life they've lived, the food they cooked, still nourishing those who are left behind; A lover's scent on their pillow or the scarf they've left behind.

Whether if the person's return is anticipated or not makes the perception of it either immensely painful or pleasurable (though the latter in a bittersweet way). What used to be a comforting, nostalgic perfume that creates the illusion of closeness to grandma, now pinches the heart because she is now gone.

But if the hope is there - I savour every bit of Eternity that clang to the T-shirt that you forgot to pack, and more importantly - your own smell that is hiding underneath. And I am afraid it will disappear every time I smell it. I'm wondering if you'll return before it loses its scent completely. Yet I'm consoled that at least in your suitcase there are the healing oils that will accompany you on your journey. Scented things that maybe will make you feel like I'm by your side sometimes.

Transitional Scents

Transitions

Transitional times can either be the best times to try new scents, or the worst possible idea. It really depends on what type of transition is taking place, isn't it? Transitions happens when we find new love, lose an old one, move to a different place, complete or begin school, embark on a new career or let go of a previous one, take care of an ill loved one, or welcome a new family member.

At times like this, I find myself doing one of three things: find comfort in familiar, tried-and-true scents with which I have strong positive associations; try something new; or just avoid scent altogether.

1) Leaning on familiar fragrances to bring comfort
Like catching up with a good old trusted friend, it's wonderful to have a perfume (or two) which you know you'll always find comfort in wearing. To me, many of the classic Chypres have been just that: Miss Dior, Mitsouko, and my own Ayalitta. However, you should be warned that new scent-memories are ever changing with new experiences and new associations. For example: when my daughter broke her leg many years ago, I took my bottle of Mitsouko EDP to the hospital to make me feel better. It worked at the time. But then I was unable to wear it again for many months without remembering this harsh week at the hospital.

This is not surprising, and is also true for the memories themselves: they change every time we recall them. Each time we tell our story, it is being edited, so to speak...  Every time we experience a fragrance, we not only recall our past experiences, associations and emotions with that scent, but also create new ones. There is a dynamic relationship between our emotions, memories and scents. Every time we wear a perfume, we deepen the relationship with it as we encounter new people, feelings and memories along the day.

The beauty of this is, that we can change our own stories and give happy ending even to the most traumatic chapters in our lives. On a more perfumey notion: perfumes that we hated or brought sad, painful memories, can be turned around and become the bearers of happy thoughts and good news.

2) Experiment with a new fragrance, which will create new scent-memories for such significant time. 
This is the philosophy of "new life - new scent". It does, however, depend on a state of mind that fosters curiosity. Curiosity and playfulness have room to exists only when there is a sufficient amount of confidence and safety in place. Only when we feel safe enough - we will feel curious to explore a new environment and experiment with new possibilities.
I often have clients come to me at times of transition wanting to imprint this time of their life with a  unique scent. Once again, this is proactive way to shape your own scent-memories. The wind of change is often scented with new scents - of the a new home, a new work environment, smells of new people and whatever they've chosen to scent their lives with... Rather than passively waiting for new scent associations to come by (which they are bound to anyway!) - you'll remember this change in your life by something that you have chosen yourself.

3) Avoid scents altogether, as to avoid creating new negative scent associations.
Change makes many people uneasy or uncomfortable. Even if it's a so-called positive change, the unknown always has an element of fear, and cause of major stress. Even excitement for the future has more than a hint of anxiety mixed in. When embarking such unpredictable journeys, I often find it difficult to embrace scent in my daily life. There is so much to take in that scent may feel as imposing another excessive stimulation on an already overloaded system.  When a million thoughts are going through my head, sometimes it seems that experiencing the emotions that a scent inspires would just be an overkill.
If you feel like this, don't push yourself to wear perfume. Perfume is meant to be a pleasurable, enjoyable experience. Not a painful one. With that being said, you may find a renewed interest and comfort in simple scents from nature, or notice that your sense of smell is more keen now and notices more subtle aromas. Take pleasure in small things such as savouring the fragrant steam of a cup of tea and more nuanced smells of objects that you've never noticed before, such as linen, straw hats and wool. 

Back to the top