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SmellyBlog

Songes

Gauguin's painting from this website.

One of my NYC souvenirs is a bottle of Songes Eau de Toilette. I got a sample of Songes Eau de Parfum a few weeks ago and fell in love right away: Songes was everything I hoped to find in it – and it is now the first Annick Goutal perfume that I added to my collection. And also one of the few white florals that I really enjoy wearing.

Songes is a creamy and soft white floral, and although it has a definite presence and character, it is very gentle. Wearing is it like being wrapped in a fluflly cloud of subdued flowers from the tropics, washed by gentle rain, than dried again to excude a delicate, far more tolerable sweetness. The opening is a lush, creamy gardenia (not the heady bobmshell of Gardenia Passion), along with ylang ylang and jasmine, and than comes a creamy tuberose with incensey undertones (at this stage it reminds me of Noix de Tubereuse, less the slightly plasticky/lipstick like note there), along with slightly tea-like notes of jasmine and a tiniest hint of green and peachy fruitiness that dissipates after a couple of minutes. It's smooth and round and there is no particular note standing out, all the notes create together a tropical floral dream and a lazy feeling of satisfaction. The dry down is sweet and ambery with powdery vanilla. It's never too sweet nor cloying. Just sheer pleasure with a good measure of modesty. It's a sensual white floral with no bombarding pretence.

The Eau de Toilette is very similar in character (you won’t mistake it for a different scent), though I would have to emphasize that the creaminess (what some refer as coconut note) is not so prominent. Instead, the frangipani and ylang ylang take a first seat for a while, and than gradually make room for a gentle jasmine and a vanilla drydown. Overall, the EDT feels a tad drier and more powdery. Although I love the EDP concentration, the moon bottle, in reality, surprisingly put me off, and I settled for the modest spray bottle with the golden mushroom cap and starred organza ribbon. It does look dreamily gorgeous in this ad though:

I admire Annick Goutal as a perfumer and as person and for being one of the few women in her field. I love her approach and the personal touch that all of her perfumes have - the stories and the emotions behind them. She was a remarkable woman and I wish I was able to meet her in person before her tragically early death.

Unfortunately, most of the Annick Goutal scents do not work for me. Most of them feel too green or green or soapy on my skin, and although they are so delicate and refined, their presence is too sharp for me. I tried anything from Eau de Camille and Eau de Charlotte to Folavril, Eau d‘Hadrien and Eau de Sud and Grand Amour. But I was able to wear none of them more than a couple of times. While most of the above mentioned creations always feel to me too “perfect” and require admiration from a distance, I find in Songes the warmth and sweetness that makes me want to come closer and be able to become part of the perfume when I wear it. It is versatile (I’ve worn it day or night and in warm and cool weathers, equally enjoying the dreamy pleasure that Songes has to offer). yet has a definite character. Camille Goutal may not create the same kind of scents that her mother made, but she did not fall far from the tree in following her heart’s passions and sharing them with the world.


Top notes: Frangipani, Ylang Ylang

Heart notes: Jasmine, Tuberose

Base notes: Vanilla, Incense, Powdery notes



Bottle images and ad from Annick Goutal's website.

Fire Island


Underwater Love, originally uploaded by Mareen Fischinger.

There are very few sun tan oils or sunscreen lotions that I like; yet, there is something immediately captivating about scents that bring to mind that sun-and-and-soaked feel of sunbathing products – the feeling of freedom and carefree, both peaceful and wild.

Fire Island is not so much fiery as it is bottled water-fun. It is suggestive of both watery breezes and sun-tan lotion: the scent that emanates from my skin when I climb out of the pool, dripping chlorinated water that washed away some of that gardenia and lily scented sunscreen. The late afternoon breeze is blowing, slightly chilling the skin into pleasurable goose bumps that glitter in the diagonal rays of sun that is just about to set in the horizon.

The Bond No. 9 line was designed to conjure memorable locations in New York. I have only been to New York once, so I cannot comment on the connection between the locations and the scents. Fire Island is named after a dune-y beach in the city, and the scent is one of the most likeable and easy to wear beach scents I know. The perfumer, Michel Almairac, also created the similarly innocent Secret Wish (Anna Sui), the sweet Casmir by Chopard, and many more.


The notes, according to Briana from Bond No. 9 are:

Top notes: Cardamom, Ozone
Heart notes: Neroli, White Musk

Base notes: Skin Musk, Tuberose, Patchouli

Personally, I smell mostly the ozone note, and notes of gardenia and lily and a slightly creamy musk, and a hint of neroli.

Sand, Sun, Skin…


This indecisive product swings in between a perfume and a body oil, but to judge by the fact that 1/5 of the bottle was gone only 5 days after Azuree joined my glass clan – I think of it as a body oil. The scent is mild and non-overpowering. Despite its definite presence and unique odour, it does not seem like an improbable act of insanity to wear other fragrance on your wrists while your skin is covered with the glowing aura of this subtle, sensual scent. I was a bit surprised when I smelled it first because it is rather spicy. With all the coconut and gardenia hype, one might grow to expect Azure to be just another fun suntan oil scent. Azure is mostly a woody scent, warmed with allspice and cloves. It has a spicy-sweet and woody-dry, warm presence at first, with less-than-obvious melted-honey-comb top notes. Than it gradually melts into the skin and radiates an aura of warm sand and skin, or shampooed hair heated by direct sun light. The gardenia is very subdued and so are the coconut and myrrh. The overall feeling when wearing Azuree Body Oil after a while is what one would want a sun tan lotion to be: a non-obstrusive complement to one’s skin. And that’s what I love about it.

The packaging is simple and exquisite, the exact colours of Youth Dew Bath Oil. The apple did not fall far from the tree in this case…

The oil is made mostly of silicone (cyclopentasiloxane caprylic/capric triglyceride), it is made friendly and moisturizing with olive oil, macademia nut oil, kukui nut oil, grapeseed oil and wheat germ oil. I believe it's that combination that makes the oil absorb so fast and not feel so oily (like most suntan oils are!). The list of ingredients definitley makes me like this oil more...

A downside is, though, that all the cinnamic acids and spicy aromas can be a bit tough on the skin. If you have a sensitive skin don’t apply it all over your body – it may result in a burning or itching sensation or irritation to the skin. This is why it would be nice if it came in a more concentrated oil that can be applied discreetly to pulse points, or just a perfume, a-la-Youth Dew Bath Oil.

Another issue is the price: if (and I repeat: IF) Azuree was a perfume, the price (below $40 CAD) would have been very attractive. But, considering the fact that it is a Body Oil, and is meant to cover more skin than a perfume – it goes faster that I wish it would, and so the price is actually not as great as it seems…

The gorgeous photograph titled "Fraingipani" is courtesy of The Haliimaile Hippie

The First Day of Summer



The sun made an appearance today, for the first day of summer in Vancouver. Here, in the city of moderate climate and continuous rain showers, summer can is measured not in months but in days. Those very few days in which the ocean is warm enough to emit the mysterious aroma of salt and seaweed, and the forest floors are dry enough to reveal the scent of long-rotten coniferous foliage and crumbled red cedar. It’s also time for the wild roses to bloom and all together this is the best perfume that can be produced on the West Coast – warm and rustic, woody and smooth like the trunk of an old arbutus tree.


The photos here were actually taken yesterday, in Lighthouse Park in West Vancouver. A great place to get off track and get lost... My complaints of the lack of sun should not be taken seriously, as it only required 30 minutes of sitting on a rock in the sun and having a little picnic for me to get dehydrated, and remind me with a pumping headache how summer in Israel must feel. Better start practicing as I will be going there again this August.

Appropriately and punctually, Le Parfum de Therese arrived in my mailbox, all intact (the former two little bottles I got earlier this month crashed completely on the way, the envelope in which they arrived in impregnated with the chic perfume – you wanted to bite into the bubble wrap as it smelled so good!
Thank you Scarlett for getting this to me, Therese will make my summer complete!

Still Life Sketch of Summer Notes

Beginning of Summer
Quiet air conditioning first being used, new leather sandals scraping the ankle’s skin, and the scent of those particular hormones released in humans anticipating the summer holidays – these combined have a very definite scent of excitement on the verge of freedom.

Peak of the Summer
Lemon popsicles, tart and sweet, sweating their juice away in the hot sun;
Melons warmed by the baked earth in the fields;
Watermelons piled up and chilled in the darkest corner in the house while their seeds start to sprout within;
Green figs, fuzzy and stingy, honeyed and tangy, with that dangerously burning milk dripping from their stems;
Hot sand and bubbling boiling asphalt;
Burning bushes and forest fires;
Sour plums – too few;
Sweet overripe apricots – too many, all cooked into a jam on open fire;
White Peaches with tree resin stuck to their skin;
Sunscreen and chlorine blended on sun-soaked skins;
Lemon & Lime bubble gum that is so big and juicy that it’s hard to chew on;
Coconut scented tanning oil and coconut scented chewing gum;
Wheatgerm & Honey Shampoo masking the salty scent of sandy hair – but not quite so;
Straw and mud as the garden and orchards are being watered;
Chocolate covered banana ice cream bars, melting and dripping into the sand and onto tar struck soles;
Spearmint flavoured lemonade and spearmint flavoured rice-filled sour grapevine leaves; Green juice of tomato leaves staining a little gardener’s hands.

End of Summer
Sand Lilies wiggling in the sea salt scented and slightly chilly breeze… Announcing the arrival of school days and books and new introductions.

Summery Building Blocks
Marigold (Tagetes) – this flower loves the sun and the summer and we used to plant it in the vegetable garden to keep away aphides and other bugs.
Spikenard – reminiscent of the scent of just-watered soil, of straw and of mud. Creates an interesting base.

Basil – delicious and abundant in the summer, it adds a wonderful twist to both citrus and jasmine with its aromatic happiness.

Spearmint – cool and refreshing and abuandant in the summer, and also likes to transform jasmines and make them even more radiant.

Rose – luscious tea roses and wild roses in full glorious blooms, warm and soft

Jasmine – particularly intoxicating in the evenings, and the most flexible summery heart note there is.

Rose Geranium – not only as an extension for rose, but a note with its own bold rosy green herbaceous lemony presence with a full bodied fruitiness.

Lemon Verbena – this tropical lemon scented plant has the most delicate lemony scent which
is a bit floral and green, and is a heart note. It’s glorious with rose and refreshing and soothing at once.

Lemongrass – grows in abundance in summer and adds a green and lemony, somewhat hay-like aroma.

Seaweed – a natural building block that brings to mind salty oceans and soft warm sand. A great way to get a marine note without calone.

Lime – the most refreshing green citrus there is.

Lavender – this soft herbal flower can have the most cooling effect when paired with citrus or woods.

I wish you could join me by sharing your summer scent memories with us and adding a comment!

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