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Eau du Ciel

Eau du Ciel is all about linden blossom, and has one of the more realistic rendition of the ephemeral scent that wafts in the air when walking under linden trees in mid summer: the honeyed blossom, green twigs and tender leaves swaying in the cool summer breeze of late June.

The initial honeyed, characteristic linden blossom note is quite realistic, yet very fleeting, and quickly subsides. Here enters neroli, with its cool, elegant and slightly woody character. Petitgrain contributes to the dimension of crisp tree foliage. And underneath it all, a bittersweet, slightly powdery aroma of coumarin (new mown hay) softly brushes at your ankles. The final dryout notes also are reminiscent of green tea.

Eau du Ciel is very aptly named, as it is as spacious as the blue sky and light as feather clouds on a sunny summer day.

Paris Day III - Le Chateu de Versailles

I spent most of today in Versailles, mostly outdoors, and smelling the Royal French countryside. The Petit Trianon and the stables/hamlet/little fake village that Mary Antoinette escaped to are so pastoralle and beautiful. I even loved the smell in the food-heating room. It smelled like old stones in ancient places like Jerusalem or the Bar Kochvah tunnels in Askelon.

The gardens were full with luscious lilacs and wisterias in bloom and the scent of moist leaves, dirt and cut grass was liberating and refreshing after being in the noisy city for a few days (Paris is so much noisier than Vancouver, not surprisingly!).

After Versailles we went back to Paris for a visit to the Musee d'Orsay, but on the way to the restaurant for dinner I noticed the tiny Annick Goutal shop and stepped in to sniff some unfamiliar scents - the new Musc Nomade, Un Matin d'Orage and Vetiver. I tried Un Matin d'Orage and found it to be too sharp for my taste. Magnolia, gardenia, citrus and the signature Annnick Goutal leafy-green sharpness prevent me from fully enjoying this scent.

As an aside: the l'Air de Rein is no longer available. I think they took it off the shelves because it changed overtime (that's how much I gathered from the sales person). They sold some perfume named "Reverence" in the gift shop that smelled horrible and definitely not authentic, and some Napoleon cologne that I didn't even bother trying.

Paris Day III - Le Chateu de Versailles

I spent most of today in Versailles, mostly outdoors, and smelling the Royal French countryside. The Petit Trianon and the stables/hamlet/little fake village that Mary Antoinette escaped to are so pastoralle and beautiful. I even loved the smell in the food-heating room. It smelled like old stones in ancient places like Jerusalem or the Bar Kochvah tunnels in Askelon.

The gardens were full with luscious lilacs and wisterias in bloom and the scent of moist leaves, dirt and cut grass was liberating and refreshing after being in the noisy city for a few days (Paris is so much noisier than Vancouver, not surprisingly!).

After Versailles we went back to Paris for a visit to the Musee d'Orsay, but on the way to the restaurant for dinner I noticed the tiny Annick Goutal shop and stepped in to sniff some unfamiliar scents - the new Musc Nomade, Un Matin d'Orage and Vetiver. I tried Un Matin d'Orage and found it to be too sharp for my taste. Magnolia, gardenia, citrus and the signature Annnick Goutal leafy-green sharpness prevent me from fully enjoying this scent.

As an aside: the l'Air de Rein is no longer available. I think they took it off the shelves because it changed overtime (that's how much I gathered from the sales person). They sold some perfume named "Reverence" in the gift shop that smelled horrible and definitely not authentic, and some Napoleon cologne that I didn't even bother trying.

Contests Winners and Announcements

First of all, I have to apologize for taking so long to announce the winners of SmellyBlog's recent contests. One of the contests is still open (more in a minute), and some already have winners!

Following up on the Annick Goutal trivia question, Theresa is the winner of a cute little purse spray of Annick Goutal's Songes EDT (I will perform the illegal act of decanting it myself). Congratulations, Theresa! Your prize will be on its way tomorrow.

Theresa is right: Elizabeth Taylor was sued by Annick Goutal for the use of the name Passion and now her perfume is called Elizabeth Taylor's Passion. As much as I love Songes and the brand of Annick Goutal, they seem to be into suing for name rights for perfumes (I am sure many of you remember the battle over Extrait le Songes by l'Artisan). I am surprised Annick Goutal brand was never sued for using names such as "Vetiver" or "Neroli", so often used by other brands...

I am still waiting for more SmellyBlog logo votes to come in before I announce the winner of an Opium Fleur Imperiale bottle (100ml) - the limited edition from last year. There are more than 200 people visiting SmellyBlog daily, so it's impossible to think that only 10 people will vote here. Surely more of you have your own opinions. So please, will you share them with us, please? The contest details are here, and you can either vote for:
logo no. 1
logo no. 2
or logo no. 3

Please leave a comment on the post showing the logo you like. The draw will take place May 31st, and the winner will be announced than. I am going to add more prizes (drumroll...):
1) Opium Fleur Imperiale (100ml)
2) Complete collection of my Vetiver Mods which were discussed quite elaborately on this blog
3) Sample set of 4 of the newest perfumes from my collection - Coralle, Tirzah, and two others that will remain secret for now except for the lucky winner...

Eau d'Hadrien


Valdorcia, paesaggio., originally uploaded by creativik67.

The mundane meets the magical in Annick Goutal’s Eau d’Hadrien*. There is nothing particularly original about this fragrance, which pairs a few intensely astringent citrus notes with a woody base. In fact, the particular accord of grapefruit, lemon, ylang ylang, patchouli and cypress reminds me of a particular aromatherpeutic synergy which left so little impression on me that I completely failed to remember what it was or where I smelled it. Upon research, I discovered that this particular combo if essential oil would result in a synergy for menopausal varicose veins and cellulitis**…

The initial citrus overload can be likened to getting sprayed by grapefruit essential oils right from its pores when attempting to peel it – resulting in two things: grapefruit juice dripping down your wrists and arms, and teary eyes. It will leave those tangy, tingling residues on your tongue for hours to come, and your fingers will remain bitter for the day. The citrus monopoly gradually becomes tolerant to soft, woody, powdery-sweet floral note of ylang ylang (I believe it’s the third grade of the essential oil by the smell of it), and underpinnings of sappy-green, bitter and warm-woody notes of cypress and patchouli. Cypress and lemon are one guaranteed way to smell like cleaning agents. For some reason, in l’Eau d’Hadrien this does not bother me.

Yet, the non-ambitious banality of Eau d’Hadrien is precisely what accounts for its charm: it gives you the same satisfaction of thoroughly cleaned house, fresh acrylic paint fumes still emanating from the walls, the carpets are still moist and exhaling that intensely orange aroma, the beds are made with fresh white sheets, and all you need to do is light a little candle and put your cold (and damp) feet up and relax while your bath tub is getting filled up with a pine-scented bubble bath.

I’ve been ignoring Eau d’Hadrien for many years, solely because it is a citrus. I mostly smelled lemon and a few herbs on the few occasions when I tried it, but I never really worn it properly (i.e.: on my skin, for an entire day). But I did enjoy tremendously the Eau d’Hadrien shower gel and lotion, which I found to be quite different from what I remembered Eau d’Hadrien to be: Sappy, green, citrusy, fresh, woody, brisk, bitter, sour, astringent, herbal. It does not feel mudnane at all. In fact, it has that sappy, resinous leafy feel reminiscent of Grand Amour's mastic. I really love it.
I even lit the candle last night and today (you guessed it, my place and my studio are being painted... I can now enjoy the fruit of my - and other people's - labour). The candle has a gentle throw, which fills the whole house with a delightful green tea and citrus aroma. It is significantly sweeter than the Eau de Toilette, and has the balsamic leafy tonalities of the body products.

Top notes: Lemon, Grapefruit
Heart notes: Citron, Ylang Ylang
Base notes: Cypress, Patchouli

* This review is for the Eau de Toilette, by the way. I haven’t tried the Eau de Parfum yet, but I’ve heard it is softer and sweeter, with the ylang ylang more pronounced and the cypress mellower. The lasting of the Eau de Toilette is excellent – it lasted on my skin for a good 7 hours, and there were still traces of citrus in the dry down.

** With no disrespect to aromatherapy at all, so please don't get me wrong; I do, however, lack the knowledge of understanding how a synergy such as that would work, so my knowledge is based on the separate actions of each of those oils and what they have in common, not being able to predict beyond that...
Both cypress and grapefruit oils are good for treating cellulite and water retention; Lemon and cypress help reduce varicose veins; cypress and ylang ylan gare excellent in helping to cope with menopausal symptoms, as well as menstrual crapms and PMS symptoms; and both cypress and citrus oils in general are stringent and disinfectant, which might explain why they are used so often in household cleaning products.

*** This is the first in a series of citrus-based perfumes, before they disappear on us completely. Let's hope not!
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