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Study in Cedar

Study in Cedar

A study in cedars reveals the many nuances and variations on a beloved woody theme. While all of them have cedrol as a main constituent*, they smell quite different from one another. First of all, there is a pattern here: true cedars (Cedrus) smell significantly different from the so-called cedars (Thuja, Juniperus, etc.). Let's begin with those:

Atlas Cedar (Cedrus atlantica) is a large fragrant tree that grows on the Atlas mountains and looks exactly like Cedar of Lebanon (Cedrus libani). Atlas cedar has been in use for thousands of years, both as a medicine, cosmetics, incense and perfume. In Egypt it was used to embalm the dead. It is considered one of the earliest incense materials.
The oil is a semi-viscous, clear-yellow liquid with a fine, warm, polished-wood scent. There is a sweetness to it, almost like honey - but also a certain cool element as well, or just an overall feeling of smoothness of a cold pebble. Then there is also a certain animals aspect, not as urine-associated as in sandalwood, but pretty close. It's a very light, subtle base note with mild fixative qualities. It functions in perfume similarly to frankincense - a base note that is very light and non overpowering. It's easy for it to get lost in a composition, so either use large amounts or use only with other lighter notes (such as light florals), and if you're using heavier notes, make sure they are delicately proportioned.

Principal constituents of Atlas Cedar oil (according to Julia Lawless' Encyclopedia of Essential Oils):
Atlantone, cedrol, caryophyllene, cadinene and others.

Himalayan Cedar (Cedrus deodara) are descendents of the Cedar of Lebanon (Cedrus libani). I can't identify any differences between Himalayan and Atlas cedar. Maybe, but just maybe, it is a tiny bit lighter and cooler.
Cedar of Lebanon

True cedarwood is a very versatile note and blends well with most notes. Try it with other woody notes to create a woody base not for a composition (i.e.: other types of cedar, sandalwood, agarwood, vetiver, muhuhu, West Indian Sandalwood, etc.). It is wonderful with citrus oils (lime in particular), spice oils (cardamom, coriander, ginger) and floral notes (jasemine, rose, tuberose).

In aromatherapy, both true cedarwood oils are the safest to use. They are valued for grounding and entering; Antiseptic; For treatment of oily hair and skin as well as acne, to treat insect bites. True cedarwood oil is astringent, expectorant, and helps to relieve stress. It is best avoided during pregnancy.

Recipe: Aphrodisiac Atlas Mountains Massage Oil
30ml Almond oil (2 Tbs.)
10 drops Atlas Cedarwood
10 drops Sandalwood oil
2 drops Ylang Ylang oil
2 drop Cardamom oil

Virginia cedarwood (Juniperus virginiana) is really the oil from the heartwood of a North American juniper tree. It's not a very tall tree and is slow to grow. There are two subtypes with slightly different habitat, that vary in their size cones, shape of leaves and bark colour: Juniperus virginana var. virginiana, AKA Eastern Redcedar, has larger cones and a red-brown bark. It grows in the eastern parts of North America - west from southern Ontario and South Dakota, all the way down to the northern parts of Florida and the post-oak savannah of Texas. The other type, Juniperus virginiana var. silicicola AKA Southern Redcedar or Sand Juniper, which has smaller cones and orange-brown bark. It grows along the Atlantic gulf coast from North Carolina to Florida and Texas. 
The oil from the heartwood of Virginia cedarwood can be either distilled once, producing a dark amber/brown oil, or rectified to produce an almost transparent white oil. Either way, it has the beloved and familiar scent of pencil shavings, woodworking workshops, old furnitures, museums, cedar chest or bentwood box and hamster cages, with a smoky topnote that develops into an almost creamy, precious wood note (not that far removed from sandalwood, even if it is overall much drier and not as creamy) before it evaporates completely. It is a rather fleeting top note, lasting only a day or two on a scent strip. You'll need another long lasting woody note like sandalwood, vetiver or patchouli to fix it and give it a more lasting power.

Principal constituents of Atlas Cedar oil (according to Julia Lawless' Encyclopedia of Essential Oils): 
Cedrene (up to 80%), cordial (3-14%), cedrenol, and others. 

Texas cedarwood (Juniperus mexicana) is intense, smoky, dry-woody, warm and smooth. Reminiscent of an old cedar wood chest and campfires. The non-rectified Texas Cedarwood essential oil is dark amber, and contains solid crystals that can be filtered out. My guess is, that if they were to actually be left in the oil, it will be a longer lasting product. It lasts longer than the Virginia cedar wood, but is still a fleeting top note.

Principal constituents of Atlas Cedar oil (according to Julia Lawless' Encyclopedia of Essential Oils): 
Cedrene, cedrol (in higher percentage than the Virginian cedarwood oil), thujopsene, sabinene and more. 

400 Years Old?

Redcedar (Thuja plicata) AKA Western Redcedar, has the most potent smell of all cedars: Smoky, medicinal-herbacouse, and almost repulsive, actually, as an essential oil. I've already talked much about how it was the pillar upon which the entire Coast Salish culture was dependent upon for their survival. And even though very few live by those traditions now - it is still a symbol of the West Coast, and smells like so many mundane and nostalgic things here: Playgrounds are padded with it, as are horses arenas - and to me the latter is a strong, positive scent memory of the redcedar mingled with the musky smell of horses (and their manner). Redcedar is what most fences, roofs and outer parts of woodens houses are made of as well. So wherever there's fresh wood here, it's usually redcedar. And that includes a bundle of chopped wood for the fireplace or when you go out camping. A new (and fond) scent memory for me is the smoky bonfires on Chesterman Beach, that the surfers burn to warm their bones after a chilly afternoon of wave-chasing. Imagine that mingled with a pungent low-tide aroma of barnacles, rotting seaweed and mussels, and you may not even need to travel there at all (though I highly recommend that you do!). Of all the cedars, this is the most intense and tenacious - I'd consider it a heart note. As a raw material it is still new to me, so I'll have to find out more about its fixative qualities etc. I am certain a light hand is recommended with this oil. That was the only way I made it work so far - used lightly, and in conjunction with other very strong notes. 

Hiba (Thujopsis dolabrata), is a Japanese cedar, AKA Hiba Arborvitae or False Arborvitae. It has the characteristic smoky sawdust opening, which is reminiscent of most so-called cedars (Redcedar, Virginia and Texas cedarwoods). It has a distinctive cool, camphoreous character as well. Smellyblog reader Cathryn Walter has informed me that it is used as an antibacterial and anti-fungal oil in aromatherapy, and she swears by it for chasing away colds. Drug-resistant bacteria may not withstand hiba, and it is also used to repeal insects and for treating skin conditions (I imagine similar to the other cedarwood-type oils: against dundruff.

Caution: All cedarwood oils, true or otherwise, are best avoided during pregnancy, due to their abortificant actions (can cause a miscarriage).  

* Cedrol can be found in many oils that have a hint of a woody elements - such as cypress, hinoki, juniper, cascarilla bark, calamus, and even in some herbs and spices such as angelica, ginger, basil, sage and wormwood.

Arbor Vitae: Trees of Life + Contest

Cathedral Grove

The first days of school are saturated with mundane yet memorable scent of lumbar by-products, namely pencil shavings and sharp new textbooks bound with resinous glue. Cedar's significance goes far beyond paper and pencil shavings. While visiting the Carving on the Edge festival in Tofino - the so-called cedar (Thuja plicata - which is really a kind of a cypress, not from the Cedrus species that you'll find around the mountains of the Mediterranean and the Himalaya) that grows here in such abundance holds special significance to the First Nations of the West Coast. So much so, that some called themselves "Redcedar People".

Cedar Woman

Redcedars are ginormous (65-70m high and a diameter of 3-4m are not uncommon), and live a long, rich life of hundreds and even a thousand years! They tower over the rest of the forest, and provide a home for insects, birds, squirrels and other creatures. In the lush rainforest, you'll observe other foliage gracing their branches like hanging gardens. And when a strong wind finally tips them over, they become a nursing log for new life forms and eventually - other gigantic redcedars. 

Red Cedar, 400yrs old

The tree itself in Coast Salish language was called "Tree of Life". It wasn't until visiting Tofino this past week that I really understood why - after all, it bears no fruit or edible parts (this must be my Mediterranean brain at work). For one thing, the tree plays a huge role in the ecosystem: it strives off the nitrogen-rich fish diet from the salmon that jumps upstream, and also dyes them red with its tannins, and also has the ability to filter out toxins. 

From a utilitarian human perspective, it is particularly valuable because of its soft heartwood, which makes it easy to carve. Additionally, it has a high content of essential oils that not only make it smell amazing, but also act as preservatives and insect repellent, making the wood last for hundred years if not more! Their durability and rot-resistance are why redcedar is the wood of choice for outer constructions such as homes, roofs, shingles, etc. 

Old Rededar

First Nations built and crafted almost anything imaginable from this phenomenal tree, taking full advantage of its lightweight and durable qualities: they would weave water-proof hats and clothing from strips of the bark, as well as ropes and baskets from the younger branches; and long houses and homes from planks that they've harvested from the living trees; and entire old-growth trees (either wind-stricken or actively felled in a special ceremony) were used for totem poles or to build dug-out canoes - including ones large enough to hunt whales. And of course - smaller artifacts such as masks, bentwood boxes, and other tools. Last but not least: the wood would keep you warm in the stormy and damp Pacific Northwest weather (although logs of cedar are notorious for sending out sparks - so watch your fire closely); and the leaves are bundled with sage to make incense wands that are burnt to clear off negativity from the space before the start of a ritual. 

Cedars of Lebanon

In perfumery, we use all kinds of cedar - true and false. The Cedar of Lebanon (which King Solomon used to build the first temple in Jerusalem) are too sparse to use in perfumery, but are impressive, beautifully shaped trees that grace Mount Meron where they grow wild, and some other hills of Northern Israel, where they've been planted near Saafed. 

Cedars & Fog

Cedars from the Atlas mountains in Morocco and the Himalayas smell very similar - with a warm, honeyed and slightly animals aroma. The remind me of polished-wood because they're so smooth and precious smelling. The most famous perfume you can smell Atlas cedar wood is Feminite du Bois by Shiseido (now available directly from the fragrance's creative director leading niche brand, Serge Lutens). Among my creations, it is particularly noticeable in Epice Sauvage and Tamya.

Himalayan cedar, which is similar but a little more cool and clean-smelling is what you'll smell at the base of Indigo (which, incidentally, was listed among Basenotes' 500 Greatest Modern Perfumes). You an also experience it at the base of Jasmine Pho and Fetish (which also has another coniferous favourite: Fir absolute). 

Windswept

Japan has its own unique conifers, and its own version of cedar - called Hiba (AKA Japanese cedar, false arborvitae or Hiba arborvitae). Bon Zai perfume portrays a miniature forest of windswept cedar and pine, in the best Japanese tradition. Minimalist yet haunting, the familiar notes of Virginia cedarwood, juniper and Scotch pine are joined by more exotic Japanese oils of mandarin, oud and shiso leaf. In a new version I've been working on this afternoon, indigenous Japanese woods will enhance the authenticity of this fragrance - namely Hiba (Thuja dolabrata) and Hinoki, AKA Japanese cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa).

Eau de Cedre
The so-called Virginia and Texas Cedarwoods are really juniper trees (Juniperus virginiana, AKA Easter Redcedar). Their aroma is similar, but much milder than the Western redcedar. The Virginia kind has a particularly soft and rich, warm, smooth dry down that makes it second only to sandalwood. I've used it as a key note in Eau de Cedre, an eau-de-cologne type fragrance with a woody anchor and distinctive dry, spicy tones. But you'll find it in many others of my creations, such as Rainforest, in which the Virginia cedar is subtle, and makes a subtle backdrop for coniferous tree and dewy foliage - recreating the experience of a walk in the woods. Espionage, on the other hand, is cedarwood chests, cedar-flavoured cigarettes, but most of all: logs of campfire, out in the woods, or even better - on a stormy beach to warm you up after surfing the chilly Pacific. 

400 Years Old?

Essential oils from the Western redcedar have only joined the perfumer's palette some 3-4 years ago, and I've used it in Blackbeard Oil, and more recently - in a new perfume that captures the magical scent of the Pacific rainforest floor on a warm, sunny autumn day: a most peculiar scent that anyone who loves the forest and lives around here is fond of and most familiar with. It smells a bit like how you'd think Chypre should smell; but is also with resinous-sweet ambery undertone to it. I'm pleased to say that I've been able to capture it perfectly; but I do need your help naming it. Non of the names I've thought about seem right: it's not "Pacific Amber" and it's not "Emerald Amber". The name "Arbor Vitae" sounds too arcane and serious (and I'm worried no one would understand it at all). And then names of places where you can experience it - such as Stanley Park (where I first experienced it) or Gold Creek (which alludes to its warm, golden aroma) - just don't sound authentic enough. Neither truly brings across the wild nature of this fragrance, and its strong connection to core of Pacific Northwest natural life, where Hishuk Ish Tsawalk was the law of the land and . Besides - you can smell it on a sunny day almost anywhere where redcedar, Douglas fir and Western hemlock live, and that covers a rather vast chunk of land... So let there be a naming contest, and the winner who emails me (or leaves a comment on this post) with the best name suggestion by September 30th will receive a 15mL bottle of this yet-to-be-named forest elixir! 

Redcedar links for further reading:

Lavender Summary

Lovender

Wrapping up the lavender theme of this month... We've got aquantied with lavender's history chemical structure and how it translates into lavender's olfactory characteristics and therapeutic properties. We virtually visited a lavender farm where we learned how lavender is cultivated, harvested, extracted and distilled the many uses of lavender - culinary, medicinal, body care, skincare, in the home, and of course its uniquely versatile role in perfume composition.

To further explore the topic of lavender, read more posted that are tagged with "lavender".
In previous years, I've also discussed the Povencal Protest against the European legislations restricting lavender use. And in Lavender Season, you'll join me to the farmer's market where local lavender farmers sell their harvest every August.

I'v had my fare share of adventures composing with lavender - making an all-natural Fougère with it, blending it with jasmine, violet, liquorice, basil... And aside from old favourites (Jicky, Brin de Réglisse...) I haven't even gotten around yet to review any of my newly discovered favourite lavender perfumes. So perhaps some of this theme will spill over to September, until we get adjusted to the Canadian school year (which does not start till after Labour Day!).

The Perfumer's Purple

Lavender Soliflores

LAVENDER'S PERFUMERY USES & APPLICATIONS
Lavender on the perfumer's palette provides for a range of purplish-blue hues, metaphorically speaking, of course. The oil itself is clear; and the absolute literally is a turquoise colour.

Lavender Toilette Waters
The earliest application of lavender in perfume is in the classic Lavender Waters - which the English perfected. Many historic recipes can be found for these type of eaux. Another sub-category of which is the lavender-amber waters, which include, in addition to lavender, either amber or ambergris.

Eaux de Cologne
Another important historic use of lavender oils is in the Eaux de Cologne type of fragrances. Here both lavender and lavandin are used extensively. Lavender imparts a softer, more floral nuance, where as lavandin gives a more herbaceous edge, often in synergy with rosemary or mint. Lavender can be found in countless classic eau de clone formulations, such as 4711, Guerlain's Eau de Cologne Impériale (1853) and Eau du Coq (1894) etc. Florida Waters are a New World interpretation of the Eau de Cologne in which lavender takes a more prominent role, and also includes lime, cloves and cassia bark. 


Lavender Soliflores & Gems
Lavender soliflores are a richer, more developed and rounded version of the lavender waters; or simply a more concentrated form. Classic examples are: Yardley's English Lavender (1873), Lavande Velours (Guerlain), Floris' Lavender, etc. Then there are some more sophisticated, layered and exciting renditions such as Jicky (Guerlain), the liquorice-velvety Brin de Réglisse (Hermes), my own Lovender (part of The Language of Flowers soliflore collection) and let's not forget the underrated, wonderfully vanillic Caron's Pour Une Homme.

Fougère
The first use of synthetic aroma chemicals was marked by the creation of Fougère Royal, a concoction that used for the first time a laboratory-made coumarin. But coumarin is only one of four key components that are crucial for creating fragrances of this genre, the other three being oakmoss, linalool and lavender. One could argue that the bare bones of Fougère place lavender in an even more important place, if you strip it down to an even more simple accord of oakmoss-and-lavender, since the other two components (coumarin and linalool) naturally occur in lavender.
Other famous members of this family are Azzaro, Grey Flannel, Brut, Canoe, Amber & Lavender Cologne (Jo Malone's), Jazz (YSL), Xeryus Rouge (Givenchy), etc.

Lavender Chemistry

Lavender distillation

CHEMICAL CONSTITUENTS of LAVENDER
Some 300 molecules were discovered in true lavender's essential oil, that are responsible for its fine, complex yet clear aroma - most of which are trace elements. The major constituents are (the ones in bold are the most dominant/famous ones):
Linool
Linalyl acetate (up to 40%) 
Lavandulol *
Lavandulyl acetate *
Cineole
Coumarin
Camphor
1-octen-3-yl acetate
Tricyclene  
alpha-Pinene  
alpha-Thujene  
Camphene  
beta-Pinene  
Sabinene  
gamma-Terpinene  
Myrcene  
alpha-Terpinene  
5-Methyl-3-heptanone  
Limonene  
Eucalyptol  
delta-3-Carene  
(E)-beta-Ocimene  
Octan-3-one  
para-Cymene  
Terpinolene  
Hexyl-isobutyrate  
Neo-allo-ocimene  
3-Acetoxy-octene  
Hexyl-butyrate  
cis-Linalool oxide  
Vinyl amyl carbinol  
trans-Linalool oxide  
Camphor
Dihydrolinalool  
(E)-Caryophyllene  
Terpinen-4-ol  
(E)-beta-Farnesene  
alpha-Terpineol  
Borneol  
Neryl acetate  
Geranyl acetate  
Nerol  
Geraniol  
Caryophyllene oxide  
alpha-Humulene  
Hexyl acetate  
alpha-Santalene

As we can see, it mostly contains terpenes, terpene alcohols and esters, and a few alcohols. According to Jeanne Rose "esters are soothing, calming, and fungicidal"; and linalool is an "antibacterial, believes discomfort, diuretic, tones without irritating, stimulates the immune system, sedating"; the latter actions similarly described as initiated by the terpene alcohols as well as toning (The Aromatherapy Book, pp. 158-160).

* Both lavandulol and lavandulyl acetate are insect pheromones, which might explain the abundance of bees observed around lavender shrubs.

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