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Immortelle l'Amour Soap

Helicrysum italicum

It takes a bit of imagination and creative formulation adjustments and changes to translate some of the perfumes into soaps. Last month, I've whipped up the first version of Immortelle l'Amour soap, which was tricky because immortelle (Helicrysum italicum) is one of the most expensive perfume and aromatherapy materials. The bars have been curing nicely for a month now, made with decoctions and oil infusions of the fresh and dried plants from my organic garden; as well as cinnamon, chamomile, marigold and vanilla beans and powdered cinnamon bark. A little bit of maple syrup added in the as well!

The result is delicious, albeit not exactly like the perfume. It has the same sweet intensity but a little more fresh and light because I did not use the heavy, curry-like immortelle absolute (otherwise nobody would have been able to afford it).

The soaps will be ready and wrapped April 17th, but you can already order them online now!

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Ingredients (In order of presence in the formula):
Saponified Virgin Coconut Oil
Saponified Olive Oil
Saponified Shea Butter
Saponified Palm Kernel Oil
Saponified Cacao Butter
Jojoba Oil
Maple Syrup
Vanilla Paste
Natural Immortelle l'Amour Perfume Blend (Benzoin, Peru Balsam, Sweet Orange, Cinnamon Leaf Oil, Marigold, Chamomile)
Cinnamon Powder

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Highlights of Florientals Week - Spring 2019

Florientals Week-Long Course, March 31 - April 4, 2019
The second perfumery course this spring was dedicated to the Florientals fragrance family - certainly one of the most charming and popular of all the floral categories. Narcotic white florals are the stars, supported by the contralto warmth of amber, woods and incense.

Florientals Week-Long Course, March 31 - April 4, 2019
Among some of my favourites lined up here are SamsaraSongesOpium Fleur de ShanghaiAzure de Soleil/BronzeGoddess, Velvet GardeniaFleurs d'OrangerVintage Gardenia as well as some serious bombshells such as Narcisse NoirGardnia and l'Heure Bleue.
Florientals Week-Long Course, March 31 - April 4, 2019
Some of my contributions to the genre include Moon BreathYasminWhite PotionTreazon and GiGi.
Our Spinning Organ for Florientals Week-Long Course, March 31 - April 4, 2019
Our palette seemed particularly indulgent, with all the gorgeous, intoxicating white floral absolutes: Jasmine grandiflorum and jasmine sambac, orange blossom, tuberose, and a few kinds of ylang ylang.
Raw Materials for Florientals Week-Long Course, March 31 - April 4, 2019
The base notes were no less rich and delicious, with sandalwood, tonka bean, ambrette seed, vanilla, benzoin and several other balsamic notes giving the characteristic ambery quality. We learned how to create amber bases and how to incorporate them within the Florientals genre.
Scent Strips from Florientals Week-Long Course, March 31 - April 4, 2019
We ran through thousands of scent strips (my scented paper project round 2 is underway). These were used not only to study close to thirty fragrant building blocks, and doing several "blind tests", but also longingly through the composition process.
At the Baha'ii Gardens in Akko with My Fabulous Students! Florientals Week-Long Course, March 31 - April 4, 2019
And we visited the Bahji gardens and tomb near Akko, which is the Baha'ii faith's holiest site, to seek inspiration and scout out new scents, smells and insights. Each student found a different aspect of the garden inspiring and built a unique Floriental fragrance based on what they've found. Perfume school is not just about theory and technique, but also about being open minded, open hearted, and with nostrils wide open for new smells and ideas. And most importantly - being perceptive to the other students and their process, because we always have something to learn from one another as well.
At the Baha'ii Gardens in Akko
Seeking inspiration in the forms and structure of the garden.
At the Baha'ii Gardens in Akko
Finding new fragrant plants...
Raindrops on Hibiscus at the At the Baha'ii Gardens in Akko
Inspiring visuals and textures (Raindrops on hibiscus).
My Fabulous Students! Florientals Week-Long Course, March 31 - April 4, 2019
Thank you so much for such lovely two weeks, with wonderful students from across the globe! It was wonderful to spend this spring together,  delve deep into the world of perfume and get to know you from up close. I'm truly blessed to have this opportunity to share my passion and knowledge with such lovely ladies who appreciate it and are so receptive to learning, respectful of one another, the raw materials, and this unique art form. I can't wait to see you all again this coming Autumn for the continuation of the course. We'll be studying Orientals (November 10-14, 2019) and Leather/Tobacco (November 17-21, 2019).

Fougere Week Summary - Spring 2019

Fougere Week-Long Course March 24-28, 2019
Fougère Week has come to a close - after spending a week with five amazing women from all over the world (there were representatives from almost all continents!) - it's time to say goodbye. But before we move on to next week (three of them are staying for the more advanced Floriental course), I'd like to share some photos.
Fougere Week-Long Course March 24-28, 2019
Our studies are focused on the Fougère fragrance family, yet tackling it from many different direction. As you can see from our setup, we study not only raw materials but also classic Fougère fragrances and this genre's pre-cursor Lavender Waters. So we enjoyed sniffing classics such as Jicky,  Polo, Yerbamate, Caron Pour Une Homme, Azzaro, Brut as well as some naturals from my collection (Lovender, l'Herbe Rouge, Gaucho and Orcas).
Perfume Trail in Park Adamit
We also went on a field trip to find inspiration and open our senses to nature. We went up to Park Adamit and Keshet Cave and strolled on the Perfume Garden Path, where we were able more than a dozen perfume and medicine plants, such as lavender, wormwood, bay laurel, wild rose and more.
My Students Rock! Fougere Week-Long Course March 24-28, 2019

My Students Rock! Fougere Week-Long Course March 24-28, 2019 Perfume Trail in Park Adamit

My Students Rock! Fougere Week-Long Course March 24-28, 2019 Perfume Trail in Park Adamit

Perfume Trail in Park Adamit
We met different plants along the way, including one from the apiaceae family that I never met before (and am still struggling to identify). It has leaves very smilier in taste and shape to celery, but it is not wild celery from as far as I could tell. The flowers were honeyed and fragrant in a most surprisingly delicious way.

Keshet Cave
(This is Keshet Cave, also sometimes spelled Qeshet Cave - a cave that had its roof cave in and disappear, leaving this impressive arch behind).

Lavender Wands & Clary Sage Leaf
In addition to exposing the olfactory world and places outside of the studio, we also bring herbs, fruit and flowers from outside to tincture, study and smell. For example - various lavenders from the garden, and local natural sources of coumarin, such as wild purple clover (see below).
Purple Clover (Local Source for Coumarin)
It's amazing how each one of the students came out with a completely different brief, inspiration and Fougère fragrance out of this very same place of inspiration we all went to at the exact same time. It is important for me to teach not only the technical but also the creative and process-oriented problem-solving required to develop each student's unique voice and eventually style. It's not just about technique and raw materials, and I like to get this point across even in the beginner courses (Fougère is the second in the order of my courses).
My Students Rock! Fougere Week-Long Course March 24-28, 2019
If you too are interested in studying natural perfumery, I'd love to hear from you! The next beginner-intermediate session will take place November 10-14, 2019 and registration is already open. Before applying you should complete the Citrus & Colognes and Fougère correspondence courses.


I Met Mignonette

Reseda (Mignonette) (Ein-Afek Aquatic Nature Reserve)
It's interesting how we dismiss things that are familiar, mundane and humble. Sometimes a different location or a different setting is what makes us appreciate those simple things in life. I've probably seen mignonette (Reseda alba) a million times growing up among the abundance of wildflowers in Northern Israel. But never thought of smelling this one up close. In fact, knowing how stinky its leaves are, with an almost poisonous, green aroma that sticks to your hand if you pick or crush them, I didn't even bother to sniff them, ever.

Fast forward a few decades, and I find myself on a lovely early spring day at the Ain Afek Aquatic Nature Reserve. It is dedicated to preservation of aquatic plants and wildlife, so naturally, every unusual plant that crosses my path, I stop to sniff, touch and snap photos. This tall cluster of tiny white flowers looked especially fresh and enticing, so sniffed it I did. And immediately was transported to perfume heaven: It smells like a mixture of tuberose, mango and crushed green leaves in the most lovely way possible. It also reminded me a lot of Private Collection by Estee Lauder. So when my brother identified it for me, I was not at all surprised that it was reseda. This is what gives this perfume this outstanding, unique, disturbingly green and orange-blossomy scent!
Migonenette (Reseda) in the Forest
I also realized it was not rare at all and can be found quite easily around here. So I'm waiting for the seeds to be ready and will save some to saw next year around my studio. There is also a desert variety which is yellow (Reseda lutea). It is not the exact species used in perfumery, which is Reseda odorata - but it smells good and strong enough for me, and I would love to try to capture the scent via vegan enfleurage technique. Can't wait!

Happy Norouz!

Persian Chickpea Shortbread & Hyacinths for Noruz

Happy Spring Equinox! Happy Norouz! Happy Purim Eve!

So many thanks to celebrate in one day... And as if that's not enough already, today is also the official 18th anniversary of Ayala Moriel Parfums.
As if to celebrate with us all this beauty, life and abundance - millions of butterflies were migrating yesterday through our skies,
Thank you for being my customers and readers for so many years, and supporting what I do. It means to me more than I can express to each and every one of you personally.
As a symbol to my gratitude, I am offering you an 18% discount with the code Chai18 when you order online. This offer will continue till the end of March.
Persian Chickpea Shortbread Cookies for Noruz
P.s. The above cookies are Nan-E Nokhochi (Persian chickpea shortbreads), which I am still looking for a good recipe for. Mine came out a little sticky but the flavour was amazing, with cardamom, pistachios and a splash of rosewater. They are gluten free and should be melt-in-your-mouth marvellous!



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