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SmellyBlog

Interview with Perfumer Lyn Ayre of Coeur d'Esprit + Giveaway

As part of SmellyBlog's series of conversations with perfumers, I am pleased to host Lyn Ayre of Coeur d'Esprit. Lyn is a Reiki healer and works with fractals, colours, crystals and pure natural essential oils, of course. If you have any questions for Lyn, or any thoughts about this interview, leave a comment below and you will be entered to win a collection of 4 perfume samples and fractal postcards by Coeur d'Esprit. You may also visit Lyn's blog to get to know her better.


Ayala Moriel/SmellyBlog: Where are you from, and how does this influence your perfumes?
Lyn Ayre/Coeur d'Esprit: I was born and raised in New Westminster. I traveled extensively then, 19 years ago, we settled in the French Quarter of Coquitlam, about ten minutes from where I was born.

The river, the rain, the snow, the distinct four seasons and the aromas each one has to offer has definitely affected me in ways I sometimes don’t even understand. My perfume ‘Coastal Rains’ is an effort to capture the wetness of my hometown; the times I spent dreaming and writing in front of a drop-covered window pane; and how my emotions were influenced by each season. ‘Inspiration from the Sea’ is an olfactory reminder of long-ago summer days in White Rock, Crescent Beach, and Boundary Bay, digging for sand crabs, building castles, investigating the seaweed, and walking on the wet sand for seemingly miles trying to reach the water at low tide. ‘Pink Conch’, the first in a series of Fibonacci Perfumes, is a whimsical journey of a drop of water from the bottom of the ocean floor to my perfume jus. So, in thinking about, yes, living in the South West corner of British Columbia has completely influenced my perfume characters. Sometimes, it’s like living inside a Monet Painting.


Ayala: Where did you get your perfumery training?
Lyn: I was introduced to Natural Perfumery through a course I took on Aromatherapy. One of my teachers told me that my remedies smelled more like perfumes. I have a good nose, natural innate blending talent, an excellent olfactory memory, and keep great notes. When I started out, there were no online courses in perfumery available to me so I consider myself to be self-trained. I read extensively and did a lot of research and experimentation all of which has served me well.
Perfuming literally became an obsession. I could not sit still anymore to watch a movie. I had to get up and get playing with my essential oils. I began to amass a wonderful collection of essential ingredients and tincturing various botanicals. I published a new page to my website and began to receive orders. I put together a little half-day course on making perfumes in 2004. I’ve been teaching various course on Natural Perfumer for nine years now.
I sometimes felt like a channel for some disembodied mad scientist cum perfumer who must and must and must make another perfume. So, I have literally made dozens of perfumes. I sometimes go back to them and toy around a bit but mostly, when it's done, it's done. I write, paint, and create music the same way – it just comes through me.


Ayala: When did you start Coeur d'Esprit? How did you pick the name?
Lyn: I began making perfumes in 2003. I already had a herbal dispensary named Heart of Gaia (Gaia means Mother Earth) so it just seemed a natural progression that my fumes be called Heart of Spirit or “Coeur d’Esprit”.
Ayala: What inspires you? Lyn: Life inspires me. I know that just breathing in and out is good enough. Anything over and above that is cream. I love the cream. I’m an artist and this comes out in many endeavours ie: writing, song-writer, singer, photography, pottery, painting, and perfumery.  An alchemist at heart, combining lyric with melody, water with oil, essences with alcohol, apples with carrots, phthlalo blue with titanium white, clay with water, is all the same to me. It’s creation; it’s love; it’s life. I use my mediums to capture the essence of life.

Ayala: What is your vision for Coeur d'Esprit? 
Lyn: I’ve enjoyed each phase of growth as I’ve gone along – designing and selling my fragrances; teaching the “A Path To the Heart of Spirit” Natural Perfume correspondence course to people from all over the world; visiting and learning in online chat rooms with fellow scent-seekers; meeting other perfumers; hosting the Canadian Artisan Natural Perfume yahoo group; and moving forward to co-operatively create a Guild for Canadian Natural Perfumers. We’ve already had our First Annual Conference of Canadian Natural Perfumers in May 2012. The BC contingent, of four natural perfumers, met in Nanaimo. I’m also developing a series of Fibonacci Perfumes and launched ‘Pink Conch’ on my birthday July 8th.
I love to teach so my vision also includes more of this. I currently teach a one-day introduction to perfume creation in oil; a five-day perfume intensive; and a full correspondence course.


Ayala: Where  do you sell your perfumes?
Lyn: I sell them in-person at my Atelier in Coquitlam as well as from my website.

Ayala: What makes your perfumes unique? How would you describe or define your style?
Lyn: My personal energy signature makes my perfumes unique. Every perfumer can say that. When we create, we may go into a theta/gamma brain wave where our consciousness can expand and open to new ways of doing things. Ideas flow unimpeded; different combinations of essences can present themselves, at this time. Everything that is on the earth began as an idea on the mental plane. It was envisioned then created. I work within this framework.
An idea will pop into my mind, generally with the questions ‘I wonder if...?’ or ‘What would happen when...?’ or ‘Is it possible to...?’ I mull it over and create the scent in my mind then set about creating it in my Atelier. I begin with the base notes as they will hold the other notes as they are dropped in. There may be accessory notes, at this point, to enhance something in the base chord. The heart notes are next. I may need to use bridge notes either between the head and heart or heart and base. The number of drops for each note are determined based on where I want to go with the scent. This is where thoroughly knowing ones perfume palette is essential. It is important to know the strength of each note and who plays well with whom. For instance, Ylang Ylang is very strong-willed so only a small amount is generally necessary or she will literally take over the blend. 

 
Ayala: How did your background in alternative healing arts influence your work? 
Lyn: Early in life, I learned that scent had the power to heal, soothe, capture the imagination, and, at times, make my Spirit soar.I've been hooked ever since. I also learned I had a particularly keen nose as I could smell things others couldn’t, i.e.: a gas leak, rotten food, and so on. I began doing ‘healing work’ 40 years ago so it is ingrained into every fiber of my being. Whatever my pursuit, I do it from a spiritual perspective and perfumery is no exception. I am not interested in becoming a commercial perfumer with a factory and chemist employed rather, I appreciate small limited contracts. In my work area, I am surrounded by the soft music of the Tibetan Singing Bowls, Fractal Energy Art, and deep peace. This produces an environment of free-flowing creativity in which I can manifest, from Spirit into physical, all of the ideas and inspirations that come to me. 

Ayala: Do you make any other products besides perfume?
Lyn: I make a whole line of bath and beauty products as well as household cleaning products. Some of them are online. I love working with natural ingredients and the challenge of creating effective products, no matter what genre. As a side-note: I use Soap Nuts    instead of laundry soap for the last two years and have never looked back. There are many people who have allergies and sometimes it has to do with the cleaning products they use.
Ayala: Tell me more about your educational work. 
Lyn: I went to school here in BC completing grade 12 in 1969. I’ve since gone to college (SFU) for a few years, majoring in writing and business. I hold 49 certificates in various energy-healing modalities and in 2005 earned a Ph.D. in Energy Healing as a consideration for a lifetime of work spanning 30 years, at that point. My dissertation was on ‘The Efficacy of Energy Healing’.

Ayala: Thank you so much, Lyn! Wishing you a wonderful year 2014.
Lyn: Thanks so much, Ayala. Have a scent-filled year.

28 La Pausa

Behind the Curtain by judy stalus
Behind the Curtain, a photo by judy stalus on Flickr.
Revisiting 28 La Pausa, and the Les Exclusifs that came out in 2007. What's been around before (Bois des Îles, Cuir de Russie) has been watered down so much they remind me of a lukewarm instant coffee made by a pinchy in-law compared to a proper espresso. And the remainder seems like an elaborate, cerebral exercise in restrained variations on the Chanel originals: No. 19 and Bois des Îles being the primary sources of inspiration, with various iterations (Bel Respiro and La Pausa in reference to the first; No. 18 and the later-arrival Sycomore stemming from the latter). Both share recurring themes in varying proportions - primarily iris, indole, ambrette seed and greens to varying proportions. 28 La Pausa seems to have some leanings towards No. 18, with hints of ambrettolide, but non of the intriguing wine-like qualities of true ambrette.


28 La Pausa is very light, ethereal exercise in iris. Not the powdery, creamy orris butter that at the core of all the classic Geurlains; but rather a cool, airy rendition of this ethereal and obscure note, quite anemic if to be perfectly hones, and supported by ionone, irone and synthetic musks to extend its metallic presence without adding much longevity or blood. If the inspiration for it is the green-shuttered villa in southern France, then 28 La Pausa is the breeze blowing in the gauzy cotton curtains, bringing in the scent of a just-watered garden with iris and wet concrete pavement. There is a hint of indole in there, giving the ever so slightly warmth of jasmine petals. But it's not enough to bring in any of the relaxed, carefree Joie de Vivre spirit of southern France, nor its neighbouring Italian riviera the house is supposedly overlooking. If this is Chanel's mood on her vacations, then she's most likely sewing mosquito nets indoors, or else sketching patterns on a glass coffee table. She should be indulging in the fresh air, beaches and abundant Mediterranean scenery and loving sun. But she's not. She's cold inside her stone villa, letting only the cold sea breeze come in.



Although Gabrielle Chanel always followed her dreams and made them come true - always strikes me as a logical, down-to-earth person. She seemed quite restrained in her emotions, which in some way also comes across in her very put-together, tailored designs she's created; but that is not to say she had no emotions. Her passion was evident in the meticulous attention she's given to every stitch, in the bold audacity of her costume jewellery, and in her involvement in the artistic direction of the original perfumes. It is true that it took some time before No. 19 and
Bois des Îles grew on me - but when they did, I could sense the vulnerable, playful, passionate personality behind them - even if she hasn't created the perfumes herself, she stood behind them completely and took Even after all these years, coming back to Les Exclusifs, I can't help but notice my feelings are completely untouched by each and every composition. There is no soul to them. Only cerebral reminiscing of Chanel's style, luxury and good taste. It's all about flaunting the several expensive ingredients at the core of the composition (iris, ambrette, jasmine from Grasse) but there is really no story behind it except for a brief that resembles an interior-decorator's outline for a very wealthy client.

Notes: Iris,
Ionones, Jasmine, Indole, Ambrette, Musks.

Best of 2013

This year has been a strange one for me; but considering that last year I didn't even get around to putting together an end-of-year summary, I guess all's well that ends well...

I've been leafing through my entire year of blogging last night, trying to gain an outside perspective on my creative olfactory life, and my conclusion is: 2013 was the year of the forest! I've spent more time than usual (though still not enough) in the woods, finding inspiration in the scents as well as the resilience and grounded stability of the thriving trees.

Decidedly I was not going to launch any new perfume in 2013. It was a year when I would concentrate on maintaining what I have and strengthen my brand. This year I've launched the new packaging and still am transitioning my entire line to "get there". As the year comes to a close, I'm almost there...

And a few things that were set to be done in 2013 were not accomplished, sadly (the main thing being my 3rd edition of the Foundation of Natural Perfumery book, to be published both digitally and as a printed-in-Vancouver paperback). However, bearing in mind that I spent a lot of the year in a displaced state (aka 3 months of travel) or looking up (a more positive way to describe my 4.5 months of taken hostage by back-pain et al and only able to see what's up in the sky or the ceiling). Both of which profoundly restricted my abilities, but haven't quite broken my spirit as it turns out. So, all considered, I was actually surprised at how much I managed to still accomplish in writing, creating and discovering new perfumes (well, at least new to me!).

Another important project for me was to relaunch my line of teas, which was out of production for several years due to supplier changes. The teas used to be made for me by another company in Vancouver that went out of business. So I had to reformulate 2 of the teas, and find suppliers for high quality ingredients (considering each tea is made of about 5 ingredients, and not all can be found via one supplier alone - this was a bigger undertaking and took several years to establish). And I had been set back 5 months due to the reasons above - but was able to catch up with it all this fall when I returned from a prolonged trip to Israel. So, I'm happy to have finally brought this to completion and have the full line, with new packaging and labeling set and ready for you all to enjoy before the close of the year!

Well, that was a very long prelude to a rather short list of the fragrant moments that made my year. Some of which were neatly bottled in vintage flacons, carefully decanted by fellow perfumistas, or encountered in less traditionally perfumey manners, relating to the culinary worlds of tea, wine, beer and pastries. My philosophy is that connecting to your senses is more than just a hedonistic way to indulge in the best of life's pleasures; but also a way to reconnect to the here and now, and make that link between mind, body and soul stronger and felt throughout the day.

Surprise of the Year: Russian Perfumery
I've been fortunate to have received many beautiful gifts of fragrance this year from Russia. SmellBlog's reader Muza (Anastasia from Muza Perfumista) has generously sent me many beautiful samples of Russian perfumes by Novaya Zarya and indie natural perfumer Anna Zworkyina Perfumes. I've fell head over heels with the boehmian-chic of Patchouli Magique, and also made a new perfumer-pen-pal-friend with Anna Zworkyina, who have sent me many more of her exceptional creations.

New Indie Perfumer: Bruno Fazzolari
I first met Bruno 2 or 3 years ago at Yosh's. He introduced himself as an artists and instructor at San Francisco Art Institute, who surprisingly was also teaching his students about the art of olfaction. Some 2 years later, he launched his own eponymous line at the 2nd Artisan Fragrance Salon in San Francisco - to which I received a little sniff-preview when Bruno helped me prepare for the perfumers' afternoon tea. Bruno Fazzolari's fine art references and how the perfume ties in with his paintings and exhibitions is nothing short of fascinating. It's abstract, yet approachable. Surprising and at the same time easy to wear. The mineral, sheer yet dark quality of Lampblack is intriguing; and Au Delà is a unique modern interpretation of Chypre.

Vintage Treasure: Crêpe de Chine

Counting my blessings this year, this vintage bottle that came to me from Amsterdam via a Basenotes swap was the most important perfume event of the year. Any perfumer who hasn't smelled Crêpe de Chine yet should do so at their earliest convenience. It's a masterpiece and in my opinion a better point of reference to what a Chypre should be (or used to be) than anything else, including Coty's Chypre.

Most Exotic Indulgence: My Vanilla by Anna Zworkyina
Remarkable play on vanilla absolute, showcasing its perfumey quality rather than the pastry associations it often ignites. My Vanilla is paired with champaca and several smoky, woodsy and musky notes that are a personal departure from the cliche vanilla treatment.

Most Beautiful Floral: Osmanthus Oolong
Another quite exotic indulgence, is this utterly gorgeous osmanthus perfume from all-natural indie house Providence Perfume. Charna Ethier is a talented composer of complex yet bold perfumes, and this one has captured my skin for quite sometime. I love her use of tinctured fruit, which adds depth and a realistic sweetness. If you know my love for osmanthus and oolong teas, you won't be surprised that this is "my cup of tea".

Cheap & Chic: Patchouli Magique
Even if you don't receive it as a gift from generous perfumistas in Russia, you can enjoy this chic, bohemian patchouli and musk fragrance without breaking the bank via some online retailers that specialize in Russian perfumes. And yet, it smells nothing cheap at all, but rather like a paisley shawl deliberately flavoured with patchouli leaves to protect it from hungry moth. 

Obsession of the Year: Anima Dulcis
It was released 2 years ago, but it's complete news to me. I found it on my downhill trip to Barneys in San Francisco, and fell instantly in love. Why I didn't get it right then and there remains a complete mystery to me, for which I'm still paying dearly.

Best Impulsive Purchase: Égoïste 
Contrary to Anima Dulcis, I didn't waste my time when I approached Égoïste in Schiphol airport. I snwatched it right away (on my way back). These types of decisions may seem impulsive but are in fact well informed. I was absolutely sure I can't get it in Canada. Which was not the case for Anima Dulcis (as it turns out, the latter can in fact be found in Holt Renfrew in Toronto and in Etiket in Montreal - so not all is lost).

Favourite Mainstream Discovery: La Petite Robe Noir
I know it's from last year, technically; and I'm yet to review this, but it's not nearly as sugary sweet and mainstream as it appears to be. It's got a lot more substance to it than I've expected from such a fashion-y name. It goes straight into my to-reveiw-list; and I'm also curious about the extrait (and might as well get a bottle of it, "unsniffed").

Favourite Niche Launch: Volutes

It's not a masterpiece, and I'm still not even sure if it's FBW - but I really did enjoy it and was happy that Diptyque finally launched something a little less lightweight.


Most Nostalgic Find: Abishag

I'm so happy I found you!
'Nuff said.

Greatest Disappointment of 2013: Epice Marine
I had high hopes for this one. In fact I still do. But why did the Hermes boutique in Vancouver did not get it yet?! That is where my disappointment lays...


Most Worn in 2013:
Osmanthus Oolong, No. 19 Warm Carrot, Patchouli Magique, Bois des Îles, Égoïste, Magazine Street, Crêpe de Chine and Samsara.

Note of the Year: Sandalwood
With the dwindling plantations of sandalwood everywhere, this note has become even more precious than before. The article covering sandalwood is also bringing to a close pretty much everything I had in mind for my Decoding Obscure Notes series on SmellyBlog. Now I can finally finish my book, for realz...

Fragrant Pastry of the Year: Rahat Loukum Cookies
Inspired by Orna & Ella's cookbook, I've made their cookies, but have decided to improve on them by using a classic French recipe for pate sucree as the dough encasing these little rosewater jellies. The result is sublime (and recipe will be published on SmellyBlog later this holiday season).

Craft Beer & Coffee:
Two months of torture in Israeli summer would convince you to drink anything with even the slight suggestion if not promise of relief from the high heat. For me, this summer was the turning point for embracing these two bitter beverages: Coffee and beer. Every afternoon, at 4 o'clock or so, when the heat has accumulated to an unbearable level and we've all reached a point of exhaustion and irritability - my sister in law and I would indulge in an iced coffee. Nevermind that we would have hard time falling asleep after - it was worth it. And with her Italian heritage, of course it was espresso, made in a stove-top machinetta (aka Bialetti's Moka Express machine). I've become so smitten with coffee that upon my return to Vancouver in September, I purchased a Moka machine for myself (which I nicknamed "The Fountain of Youth"), and am already running low on the half pound of ground beans I've gotten on the same day (which means I'm actually using that moka machine, not just using it for decoration...).

The other bitter beverage is beer, which is surprisingly delicious when it's so bitterly hot and unbearable. But also quite spectacular in any weather, if it's a good beer. For my new fascination with Craft Beers I can blame Rachel Sawatzky of CocoaNymph, who runs Craft Beer & chocolate pairing nights once or twice a year at her chocolate boutique in Point Grey. My favourite craft beers so far were a wheat based pumpkin & pear, as well as a grapefruit one from Germany; and the seasonal blackberry beer "Black Betty".

Favourite Tea: Pure Black
This year I've been mostly sipping the full-bodied and fruity (baked apple, perhaps) Cask Aged Ghorka and the violetty, delicately floral Darjeeling - unadorned, unscented black teas, both feeling like pure luxury and a great boost of energy at the start of my day. 

Best Scent Event I've Ever Hosted: Perfumers' Afternoon Tea in Berkeley

It was the biggest production I've ever done, perhaps because it was done out of town, in a space I've never seen before, and was a big leap of faith as I never met the co-hosts that graciously allowed me to use their space at Alembqiue. But it all worked out. It was one of the greatest adventures I've ever embarked on, and it all fell into place beautifully, including some compromises and inevitable last minute changes to the menu or otherwise. It was a test to my concept of traveling with my daughter and hosting teas in various random places along the way. I don't know if I'll ever be able to do it again - but I am so glad I did. It was my dream come true!

And on that note, I'd like to end my very short and in-exhaustive "best of" list: wishing you a happy, fulfilling new year in 2014 - and may all your dreams come true as well! 

For more lists visit:
Perfume Shrine
I Smell Therefore I Am
Olfactoria's Travels
Persolaise
The Candy Perfume Boy
The Fragrant Man

What perfumes made your year 2013? Any other fragrant or olfactory related discoveries you've made? Please do leave a comment, and enter to win one of 3 draw for a bunch of niche and indie decants and samples, including Tom Ford, Chanel's Les Exclusifs, Hermessences, Neil Morris, Oliver & Co. and Ineke.
Due to repeat draws for the same readers, those who already won contests or giveaways on SmellyBlog will not be entered into the draw. But please do leave a comment :-)

Nocturnes



Although the name suggests it to be a night-invoking perfume, I find it extremely summer-like and full of light.
It starts off with a citrus splash of bergamot and tangerine, backed up with a feminine floral notes of jasmine, and a more masculine eau-de-cologne like notes of orange blossoms and a hint of musk, that adds sensuality to that blast of freshness.
As the top notes start to fade, they reveal a luscious fruity note of peach supported by vanilla, which gradually pushes away the dominant orange-blossom and tangerine accord.
The dry down gradually enters with an interesting and surprising accord dominated by a fresh, woody and masculine vetiver notes, accompanied by green notes, orange blossom (softer and more subtle now), and a very modest hint of vanilla and rose. 
This perfume is full of surprises, I love the way the stages fade into each other. The overall impression is of freshness and vivacity, mingled with a tad of melancholy, which brings to mind Chopin's expressive piano nocturni. 

It’s surprising to see that such an old-fashioned aldehydic floral was launched in the 80’s (1981 to be exact). The perfumer behind Nocturnes is Gerard Lefort.

Top notes: Aldehydes, Bergamot, Mandarin, Green notes
Heart notes: Orange Blossom, Jasmine, Ylang Ylang, Tuberose, Stephanotis, Lily of the Valley, Orris, Rose, Cyclamen 
Base notes: Vetiver, Musk, Sandalwood, Amber, Vanilla, Benzoin



Ormonde & Ormonde Man



Ormonde is quite a surprising scent. It starts off with a foresty black hemlock note (which is also apparent in the masculine version of the scent). However, this is no usual woody scent. In fact, it is a mysterious and subtle violet scent!
The violets here are very dark, as if hidden in the shades of the forest. The final drydown is quite sweet - almost like an oriental.
An interesting and versatile fragrance that can be very individual when it finds its match!

Top notes: Cardamom, Coriander, Grass Oil
Heart notes: Black Hemlock, Violet, Jasmine Absolute
Base notes: Vetiver, Cedar Wood, Amber, Sandalwood


Ormonde for Men hasn't impressed me quite as much, but admittedly I haven't quite given it that much chance. It starts off coniferous - with the black hemlock as in Ormonde, but then dries down to a tolu balsam base note, something vanillic and simplistic reminiscent of the drydown of Dior Addict and synthetic musks. I didn't find it particularly interesting - but as I mentioned already, I didn't give it enough chance. It sadly pales in comparison to the originality of Ormonde (which, by the way, I think will be stunning on a manly skin as well).

Top notes: Juniper Berry, Bergamot, Pink Pepper, Cardamom, Coriander Seeds
Middle Notes: Oudh, Black Hemlock
Base Notes: Vetiver, Cedar, Sandalwood, Musk

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