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Best of 2013

This year has been a strange one for me; but considering that last year I didn't even get around to putting together an end-of-year summary, I guess all's well that ends well...

I've been leafing through my entire year of blogging last night, trying to gain an outside perspective on my creative olfactory life, and my conclusion is: 2013 was the year of the forest! I've spent more time than usual (though still not enough) in the woods, finding inspiration in the scents as well as the resilience and grounded stability of the thriving trees.

Decidedly I was not going to launch any new perfume in 2013. It was a year when I would concentrate on maintaining what I have and strengthen my brand. This year I've launched the new packaging and still am transitioning my entire line to "get there". As the year comes to a close, I'm almost there...

And a few things that were set to be done in 2013 were not accomplished, sadly (the main thing being my 3rd edition of the Foundation of Natural Perfumery book, to be published both digitally and as a printed-in-Vancouver paperback). However, bearing in mind that I spent a lot of the year in a displaced state (aka 3 months of travel) or looking up (a more positive way to describe my 4.5 months of taken hostage by back-pain et al and only able to see what's up in the sky or the ceiling). Both of which profoundly restricted my abilities, but haven't quite broken my spirit as it turns out. So, all considered, I was actually surprised at how much I managed to still accomplish in writing, creating and discovering new perfumes (well, at least new to me!).

Another important project for me was to relaunch my line of teas, which was out of production for several years due to supplier changes. The teas used to be made for me by another company in Vancouver that went out of business. So I had to reformulate 2 of the teas, and find suppliers for high quality ingredients (considering each tea is made of about 5 ingredients, and not all can be found via one supplier alone - this was a bigger undertaking and took several years to establish). And I had been set back 5 months due to the reasons above - but was able to catch up with it all this fall when I returned from a prolonged trip to Israel. So, I'm happy to have finally brought this to completion and have the full line, with new packaging and labeling set and ready for you all to enjoy before the close of the year!

Well, that was a very long prelude to a rather short list of the fragrant moments that made my year. Some of which were neatly bottled in vintage flacons, carefully decanted by fellow perfumistas, or encountered in less traditionally perfumey manners, relating to the culinary worlds of tea, wine, beer and pastries. My philosophy is that connecting to your senses is more than just a hedonistic way to indulge in the best of life's pleasures; but also a way to reconnect to the here and now, and make that link between mind, body and soul stronger and felt throughout the day.

Surprise of the Year: Russian Perfumery
I've been fortunate to have received many beautiful gifts of fragrance this year from Russia. SmellBlog's reader Muza (Anastasia from Muza Perfumista) has generously sent me many beautiful samples of Russian perfumes by Novaya Zarya and indie natural perfumer Anna Zworkyina Perfumes. I've fell head over heels with the boehmian-chic of Patchouli Magique, and also made a new perfumer-pen-pal-friend with Anna Zworkyina, who have sent me many more of her exceptional creations.

New Indie Perfumer: Bruno Fazzolari
I first met Bruno 2 or 3 years ago at Yosh's. He introduced himself as an artists and instructor at San Francisco Art Institute, who surprisingly was also teaching his students about the art of olfaction. Some 2 years later, he launched his own eponymous line at the 2nd Artisan Fragrance Salon in San Francisco - to which I received a little sniff-preview when Bruno helped me prepare for the perfumers' afternoon tea. Bruno Fazzolari's fine art references and how the perfume ties in with his paintings and exhibitions is nothing short of fascinating. It's abstract, yet approachable. Surprising and at the same time easy to wear. The mineral, sheer yet dark quality of Lampblack is intriguing; and Au Delà is a unique modern interpretation of Chypre.

Vintage Treasure: Crêpe de Chine
Counting my blessings this year, this vintage bottle that came to me from Amsterdam via a Basenotes swap was the most important perfume event of the year. Any perfumer who hasn't smelled Crêpe de Chine yet should do so at their earliest convenience. It's a masterpiece and in my opinion a better point of reference to what a Chypre should be (or used to be) than anything else, including Coty's Chypre.

Most Exotic Indulgence: My Vanilla by Anna Zworkyina
Remarkable play on vanilla absolute, showcasing its perfumey quality rather than the pastry associations it often ignites. My Vanilla is paired with champaca and several smoky, woodsy and musky notes that are a personal departure from the cliche vanilla treatment.

Most Beautiful Floral: Osmanthus Oolong
Another quite exotic indulgence, is this utterly gorgeous osmanthus perfume from all-natural indie house Providence Perfume. Charna Ethier is a talented composer of complex yet bold perfumes, and this one has captured my skin for quite sometime. I love her use of tinctured fruit, which adds depth and a realistic sweetness. If you know my love for osmanthus and oolong teas, you won't be surprised that this is "my cup of tea".

Cheap & Chic: Patchouli Magique
Even if you don't receive it as a gift from generous perfumistas in Russia, you can enjoy this chic, bohemian patchouli and musk fragrance without breaking the bank via some online retailers that specialize in Russian perfumes. And yet, it smells nothing cheap at all, but rather like a paisley shawl deliberately flavoured with patchouli leaves to protect it from hungry moth. 

Obsession of the Year: Anima Dulcis
It was released 2 years ago, but it's complete news to me. I found it on my downhill trip to Barneys in San Francisco, and fell instantly in love. Why I didn't get it right then and there remains a complete mystery to me, for which I'm still paying dearly.

Best Impulsive Purchase: Égoïste 
Contrary to Anima Dulcis, I didn't waste my time when I approached Égoïste in Schiphol airport. I snwatched it right away (on my way back). These types of decisions may seem impulsive but are in fact well informed. I was absolutely sure I can't get it in Canada. Which was not the case for Anima Dulcis (as it turns out, the latter can in fact be found in Holt Renfrew in Toronto and in Etiket in Montreal - so not all is lost).

Favourite Mainstream Discovery: La Petite Robe Noir
I know it's from last year, technically; and I'm yet to review this, but it's not nearly as sugary sweet and mainstream as it appears to be. It's got a lot more substance to it than I've expected from such a fashion-y name. It goes straight into my to-reveiw-list; and I'm also curious about the extrait (and might as well get a bottle of it, "unsniffed").

Favourite Niche Launch: Volutes
It's not a masterpiece, and I'm still not even sure if it's FBW - but I really did enjoy it and was happy that Diptyque finally launched something a little less lightweight.


Most Nostalgic Find: Abishag
I'm so happy I found you!
'Nuff said.

Greatest Disappointment of 2013: Epice Marine
I had high hopes for this one. In fact I still do. But why did the Hermes boutique in Vancouver did not get it yet?! That is where my disappointment lays...


Most Worn in 2013: Osmanthus Oolong, No. 19 Warm Carrot, Patchouli Magique, Bois des Îles, Égoïste, Magazine Street, Crêpe de Chine and Samsara.

Note of the Year: Sandalwood
With the dwindling plantations of sandalwood everywhere, this note has become even more precious than before. The article covering sandalwood is also bringing to a close pretty much everything I had in mind for my Decoding Obscure Notes series on SmellyBlog. Now I can finally finish my book, for realz...

Fragrant Pastry of the Year: Rahat Loukum Cookies
Inspired by Orna & Ella's cookbook, I've made their cookies, but have decided to improve on them by using a classic French recipe for pate sucree as the dough encasing these little rosewater jellies. The result is sublime (and recipe will be published on SmellyBlog later this holiday season).

Craft Beer & Coffee:
Two months of torture in Israeli summer would convince you to drink anything with even the slight suggestion if not promise of relief from the high heat. For me, this summer was the turning point for embracing these two bitter beverages: Coffee and beer. Every afternoon, at 4 o'clock or so, when the heat has accumulated to an unbearable level and we've all reached a point of exhaustion and irritability - my sister in law and I would indulge in an iced coffee. Nevermind that we would have hard time falling asleep after - it was worth it. And with her Italian heritage, of course it was espresso, made in a stove-top machinetta (aka Bialetti's Moka Express machine). I've become so smitten with coffee that upon my return to Vancouver in September, I purchased a Moka machine for myself (which I nicknamed "The Fountain of Youth"), and am already running low on the half pound of ground beans I've gotten on the same day (which means I'm actually using that moka machine, not just using it for decoration...).

The other bitter beverage is beer, which is surprisingly delicious when it's so bitterly hot and unbearable. But also quite spectacular in any weather, if it's a good beer. For my new fascination with Craft Beers I can blame Rachel Sawatzky of CocoaNymph, who runs Craft Beer & chocolate pairing nights once or twice a year at her chocolate boutique in Point Grey. My favourite craft beers so far were a wheat based pumpkin & pear, as well as a grapefruit one from Germany; and the seasonal blackberry beer "Black Betty".

Favourite Tea: Pure Black
This year I've been mostly sipping the full-bodied and fruity (baked apple, perhaps) Cask Aged Ghorka and the violetty, delicately floral Darjeeling - unadorned, unscented black teas, both feeling like pure luxury and a great boost of energy at the start of my day. 

Best Scent Event I've Ever Hosted: Perfumers' Afternoon Tea in Berkeley
It was the biggest production I've ever done, perhaps because it was done out of town, in a space I've never seen before, and was a big leap of faith as I never met the co-hosts that graciously allowed me to use their space at Alembqiue. But it all worked out. It was one of the greatest adventures I've ever embarked on, and it all fell into place beautifully, including some compromises and inevitable last minute changes to the menu or otherwise. It was a test to my concept of traveling with my daughter and hosting teas in various random places along the way. I don't know if I'll ever be able to do it again - but I am so glad I did. It was my dream come true!

And on that note, I'd like to end my very short and in-exhaustive "best of" list: wishing you a happy, fulfilling new year in 2014 - and may all your dreams come true as well! 

For more lists visit:
Perfume Shrine
I Smell Therefore I Am
Olfactoria's Travels
Persolaise
The Candy Perfume Boy
The Fragrant Man

What perfumes made your year 2013? Any other fragrant or olfactory related discoveries you've made? Please do leave a comment, and enter to win one of 3 draw for a bunch of niche and indie decants and samples, including Tom Ford, Chanel's Les Exclusifs, Hermessences, Neil Morris, Oliver & Co. and Ineke.
Due to repeat draws for the same readers, those who already won contests or giveaways on SmellyBlog will not be entered into the draw. But please do leave a comment :-)

Autumn List

Autumn 2013 by Ayala Moriel
Autumn 2013, a photo by Ayala Moriel on Flickr.
Time for a Fall 2013 List! I'm always fascinated by the majestic abundance of this season. Rich colours, warm textures, mysterious transitions and intriguing transitions take place. Flaming leaves make room for dark, barren trees and the sun is gradually replaced by shadows and hidden growth process. My favourite scents for fall usually are smoky-leathery-tobacco or Chypre, and this season is no exception. However, I'm happy to discover some new beauties every year to expand on these themes. Life is never boring when there's perfume!

1) Mitsouko
I enjoy Mitsouko year-around, but it's not fall without it. I've mostly reaching for the Eau de Parfum, which has a light dusting of cumin. In the winter it's time to pull out the parfum extrait, which has more pronounced peach aldhyde, orange and vanilla notes; and spring and summer are times for the lighter, more citrusy and dry-woody.

2) Anima Dulcis
My new discovery this year at Barneys in San Francisco has turned chilly autumn mornings into a delightful experience. Anima Dulcis wraps around like a halo of sweet steamed milk, a cloud of spices and brown hues of caramel, dark chocolate and fallen leaves.

3) Forest Walk
Once you get beyond the musty, realistic wet earth and rotten leaves crunching beneath my feet - my brisk walking warms up my skin to reveal the woody-balsamic sweetness of black hemlock absolute, rockrose resin and moss. True to its name, Forest Walk conjures the imagery and tactile sensuality of a walk in the woods in fall; and like a vigorous stroll rejuvenates as it reconnects to earth and the seasons.

4) Magazine Street
Sophisticated, seductive and complex, Magazine Street is not exactly a seasonal perfume, as I can see myself wearing it year around. I just so happen to finally have gotten enough supply of it to lavishly enjoy it as I please. Rooty vetiver and botanical musks make it truly sing on the skin, alongside its Southern beauties of blooming magnolias. It blends so beautifully with the skin, creating a unique aura around you.

5) Cocoa Sandalwood
Surprising combination of powdery, warm sandalwood with a dust of cocoa and - the surprise - intriguingly violet-y osmanthus. Cocoa Sandalwood is a quiet, soft-spoken creaminess that is very comforting.

6) Egoiste
On my last stopover at Schipol airport, I picked up a gigantic bottle of this unavailable-in-North-America masculine gem. It is the younger sibling of Bois des Iles. Creamy sandalwood brightened by light rosewood and citrus, and hint of aldehydes. It's not as spicy and creamy as its sister, but is just as classy and lovable. Equally great for black-tie events or an evening cuddled in your favourite woolen wrap reading a book by the fireplace. 

7) Lampblack
Fall being a time of transition and contemplation, writing (or drawing) in one's journal is one of the best ways reflecting on the inner life. Black India ink serves this purpose most dutifully and truthfully. And that is the core of Lampblack - a mineral, inky concoction of smoky cyperus (nagramotha) and earthy vetiver, sulphuric grapefruit and flamboyant pepper.

8) My Vanilla
Mysterious and grown-up, this beautiful and original creation is about vanilla's seductive power and exotic nature. Paired with dry cedar, warm spices and smoky-sugary notes. In contrast, there is also strange and unusually green-resinous mastic note and heady champaca and orange blossom to create a remarkable oriental veil.

9) Volutes
Wood varnish, burnished pipe, tobacco, dates, vanilla, musk, honey and incense... Volutes is multi-layered and complex yet addictively easy to wear. It's wonderful to finally have a "darker" Diptyque scent enter the world.

10) Feuilles de Tabac
One of the most intriguing perfumes from the tobacco genre, and definitely my favourite from Miller Harris - though I've been giving it far less attention than it deserves on this blog. Wearing it instantly boosts my confidence, but not in a tacky "I'm now assertive" kinda way (aka what you'd imagine a public speaker to put on before doing a TED talk). It just creates a sense of strength and courage. It's melange of tobacco, cascarilla bark and pimento berry creates is out-of-the-ordinary, although immediately conjures a very masculine presence. I love that bold opening, and even more so what it morphs into, when the softer nuances of tobacco emerge, wrapped in patchouli and garnished with tonka.

What are your fall favourites this year?

Super Summer Scents 2013

Banana Beach Treat by Ayala Moriel
Banana Beach Treat, a photo by Ayala Moriel on Flickr.
Wherever I go, this summer is HOT. No matter how you slice it, cooling off is a constant desire that's not easy to fulfill. Some scents help, though, and especially these ones, which I have also taken on my sudden travels to the Mediterranean region.

Vanille Banane
Nostalgia at its best, by Comptoir Sud Pacifique: This fragrance reminds me of purchasing a chocolate-banana ice cream bar at the beach, right by the water from one of those vendors with ice boxes that walk the shores trying to entice parents to shell out prime cash for the privilege of eating it right there and then. The salty wind and the direct sunlight would make it melt rapidly, of course, and trickle down the toddlers hands and arms and eventually drop into the sand where they will languidly rest and become a thing of the past.

So Fresh, So Clean
The perfume oil version of Open Source Soap bar of the same name. This beautifully refreshing yet quirky scent combines fresh green notes such as galbanum, lemon and juniper with unexpected notes of mimosa, jasmine and vetiver, creating a fresh yet intriguing fragrance that is a modern twist on an Eau de Cologne.

Florida Water
Minty geranium, citrus and spice make this cologne unique, and oh so American. Buy it when you get your tortillas in your town's Latin grocery store, or make your own from the recipes I've quoted from Poucher earlier this month.

Patchouli Magique by Novaya Zarya
Surprisingly, patcouli based perfumes fair very well in unbearably hot climates. There is something strangely rejuvenating about this earthy note, not quite as cooling as vetiver, but still. This summer, Patchouli Magique is the star of my travel wardrobe.

Five by Bruno Fazzolari
Five brings forth the briskness of mint mingled with orange, cedar and oakmoss. Copious amounts of jasmine-y hedione brings to mind the iconic Eau Sauvage. More on the masculine side, which makes one wish men would wear cologne more often when it's so sticky outside.

Osmanthe Yunnan 
Hardly ever do I reach for this pale, transparent scent. "Invisible" is the word that comes to mind first when I try to describe it, which is rather disappointing from an osmanthus-lover point of view! However, in the heat of the humid Tel Aviv summer, it's iced-tea coolness provides a veil of sanity amidst the smog, sweat and other impolite scents one inevitably encounters on the streets.

Un Jardin Apres la Mousson
Cantaloupes are particularly fragrant this year in Israel, and we've even discovered the equivalent cheese pairing to watermelon and feta: Pecorino and cantaloupe. Try it and enjoy a mini trip to heaven. Un Jardin Apres la Mousson has become a summer staple for me over the years, since it was launched in 2008. I've had a long break from it though, and am  now back with renewed enthusiasm for its sticky melon paired with cool spicy notes of ginger and coriander and a tinge of wet vetiver. It's quite delightful and has a cooling effect in the heat and humidity, which is most welcome.

Summer Travel Wardrobe

Le Parfum de Thérèse
There is a prime example of how an obvious fruity notes (melon and under-ripe plum) can be played elegantly and without impinging on the perfume's elegance and abstract beauty. It's permanently sitting in my emergency kit in case I need to go away to a desert island unexpectedly...

Eau d'Orange Vert
This one is a scent that always makes me feel clean, instilling a sense of relaxed well-being and calm amidst the dust, grime and sweat that strikes cities of hot climate. Having this on hand ensures an instant crisply ironed white shirt feel anywhere, anytime. 

Charisma
Tropical, exotic floriental that's together is a few of my favourite things: jasmine green tea, osmanthus flowers, spearmint and a smooth woody-ambery base.

No. 19 
Surprisingly, the Eau de Toilette formulation lends itself very well to hot weather without losing its poise. If you need to attend a formal event in the dog days of summer, consider this timeless composition of austere quality: iris, vetiver, leather, jasmine, rose, lemon and galbanum.

Aveda #4: Key Element Air
With notes of rose, jasmine and ylang ylang this is bound to be the most luxurious of all the Aveda catalog of non-descript numeral titles. It's floral yet light (at least in the alcohol based formulation) and is a simple celebration of jasmine and rose.

Savage Water Soap Bar 
Another bathing gem by Open Source Soap, this is a refreshing melange of verbena, basil, patchouli and jasmine. It's marvelously substantial yet refreshing and like everything that comes from the hands of Shuyler Corry - the talented soapmaker of Open Source Soap - it's very well made from quality materials and does more than it's being asked to do: it doubles as a soap, shaving cream and shampoo!

Etrog
Balancing sweet, tart and aromatic - Etrog is my own little contribution to the world of "eaux".

How is your summer coming along? And how are you coping with the heat scent-wise?

12 x Roses

In the last few months, I find myself constantly reaching for roses. Be it fresh, simple rosy body products, rice milk pudding with rosewater and orange flower water (otherwise known as malabi), rose chai, or full-blown romantic and mysterious rosy perfumes - I'm there. And with Valentine's Day a mere couple of month away when all this rose obsession took possession of me - I've decided to invite a few of my perfume blogging friends over for a big, rosy blogfest!

1. Parfum Sacré was the first Caron that I fell for. And hard did I fall. It stroke a deep chord with me, the way only really great perfume can do. That feeling of familiarity and magic; a lost memory not only being retrieved but being re-lived. In this case, my first perfume of all times, coinsiding with my first true love: Abishag (made by the Israeli Museum in Jerusalem, and shortly after its introduction was discontinued). Parfum Sacré  got nothing in common with the latter's green top notes, but a very similar base and dry down. It's surprising that something so luxurious came out of a very sparse period as the 1990's. It has all the characteristics of days of yore, when no one ever suspected that musk ketone might someday become illegal...

2. Nuit de Noel, also by Caron (but from a much earlier period when its founding perfumer was still alive) has all the makings of a great love story: beautiful pitch-black bottle, the enigmatic Mousse de Saxe accord which relied on isobutyl quinoline - one of the very first man-invented synthetics (aka: not naturally occurring); and more importantly: the innovation and genius of Ernest Daltroff coupled with the love of his life, Félicie Vanpouille, whose fondness of Christmas Eve is told to be the inspiration for this perfume. But what I find most inspiring is how dedicated was this couple (who never married, despite Daltroff's repeated proposals) to the art of modern perfumery in the West, which they pioneered. From the perfume design itself, where Daltroff incorporated bold, uncommon, innovative, and often difficult to work with raw materials - to the bottle and box design - these two worked together to create what I feel was authentic multi-media pieces of art. Nuit de noel is one rose that will I will always keep in its ink bottle on my desk: If I were to ever write a love letter this would be my ink.

3. Tocade
 by Maurice Roucel for Rochas is a flirty, easy to wear but not as easy to forget scent. The delicacy of roses is played up here with notes of magnolia (Roucel's signature note, reappearing in many of his creations). It has such a distinct, recognizable character that is the definition of a good perfume. And it's one of the first linear compositions, abandoning the serious evolution from top to base through heart for a structure that is more in line with the fast paced modern lifestyle; yet without compromising innovation and originality. There's a lot to learn from Tocade!

4. Agent Provocateur was one of those intriguing scents - a little too much of everything. Yet somehow it just works: saffron, rose and musk - all in large doses, and although this might sound "oriental" or even with an Arabian theme - the result if one of the early Pink Chypres, also known as the hard-to-believe phenomenon "The Moss Who Wasn't There". Well, while I find such a notion to be sacrilege - perfumes such as Agent Provocateur, that do it well, do deserve respect. The musk teams up with dry, woodsy vetiver and sweaty coriander to create a bombshell, Femme Fatale fragrance that  should be reserved for special occasions (example: blogging about Valentine's Day perfumes, or something more risque if you live outside the computer).

5. Kashmir Rose Whipped Body Butter by Velvet & Sweet Pea’s Purrfumery is just like they say - you have to feel it to believe it. It's like dessert for your skin. And with only the best things on earth: virgin coconut oil, cocoa and shea butters, and, of course - pure rose essence from Kashmir. Just goes to show you that mother nature does not need a lot of help to be amazing and nourishing.

6. Bedouin by Persephenie is a simple, elegant, pure rose - with a twist. But of course! Otherwise I wouldn't love it so much. And that twist is cardamom, and botanical musk from ambrette seeds. Bedouin smells luscious, fruity almost, distinctively rosy yet not nearly as boring or sharp as so many rose soliflores tend to be. "Not your garden variety", as they say...  Another great example for how simpler feels more luxurious.

7. Royal Couple candle Gabriel’s Aunt is as good as it gets. And it's true, it's not all roses - there's jasmine too! Nevertheless, when it comes to candles, this is about as rosy as you can find. And like everything that Nikki Sherritt makes - it's all natural, and made with love. If someone were to turn Joy into a candle, this is how it would have smelled.

8. Rose Bohème by Providence Perfume Co. improves on the theme of spicy rose patchouli oriental to the point that it's really hard to say anything more than that. The key here is not just using top quality naturals (we already know that's important, right?) - but also the balancing act of making fussy notes such as rose yield to the uncompromising personality of patchouli. And to make this balancing performance even more impressive - there is also exotic saffron and stubborn cloves. Classic spicy oriental at its best.

9. Rose Paka by Persephenie is hands down the best face cream imaginable. And I say so not just because Persephenie is my friend - but because I am very picky when it comes to any products that go on my face. And they most preferably would smell of roses. Rose Paka isn't just wonderfully rosy, and redolent of white chocolate (blame it on the cocoa butter) - but it also is nourishing without being greasy; fast absorbing without being useless. I rarely re-purchase creams, as I usually find one flaw or another in them, and easily develop sensitivities around my eye areas. But this is an exception. And what's even better - it doubles as a body moisturizer, which makes travel easier!

10. I did not expect to like Rosewater & Vanilla by Jo Malone. Nor did I expect for it to remind me of anything I'm familiar with. And definitely not to smell Middle Eastern. But it did remind me of malabi - that sickening, chilled dessert that is served with red grenadine syrup. But it made it smell all nostalgic, and actually very pretty. It's nice to discover new loves from time to time. And this is the only one in the "Cologne Intense" series that did not smell like it's trying too hard to smell "niche".

11. Ta'if by Ormonde Jayne
 is a Middle Eastern fantasy from a British perspective. And like all things good and British, it somehow involves floral prints - or gardens. In this case, the noble petals are embroidered with spice and desert fruit: saffron, pink pepper and dates. Somehow along the way - after you hit the drydown, you realize it's a happy medium between Parfum Sacré's spiciness and Tocade's powdery musky sweetness.

12. Qajar Rose by Parfums Lalun gets a notable mention for authenticity in a world that seems to have a lot of wannabes. Perfumer Maggie Mahboubian was born in Iran, and she sourced Persian roses to include in this lovely, mysterious spicy perfume, alongside saffron, cacao, coffee and wine-like fruity notes of pomegranate, strawberry furanone, davana and geranium. Parfums Lalun is an intriguing new line, inspired by Maggie Mahboubian's passion for creating her own natural beauty and cosmetic products - a tradition that was alive in Iran when she was growing up. I hope she continues to do what she does and inspires other women to live beautifully!

Now, I was going to share with you my new recipe for rosewater buttercream sandwich cookies which I served at my Broken Hearts Tea Party (aka my 4th Annual Valentine's Day Afternoon Tea); but I've already picked my dozen roses, so this will have to wait for another post, tomorrow. In the meantime, please scroll over to my perfume blogger friends, and get more rosy inspiration - and don't forget to leave comments with your favourite roses!

All I Am A Red Head
EauMG
Katie Puckrik Smells
The Non Blonde
Perfume Shrine
Roxana Illuminated Perfume
Scent Hive

Sick & Chic

Sick & Chic by Ayala Moriel
Sick & Chic, a photo by Ayala Moriel on Flickr.
I've been struggling with a cold since Sunday, and been trying to keep my cool about it and not feel too sorry for myself (probably the worst part of being ill). That's how I came up with the idea of Sick & Chic - maintaining your dignity through illness.

Of course this is not an easy task when you’re as sick as a dog and can’t even get out of bed. And I don't know that it would be effective or relevant for someone suffering from a serious condition. Nevertheless, just like in healthy living - it’s those little details that make the not-quite-pleasant experience just a little more bearable and ever so slightly less depressing.

Instead of drowning in used tissue, surrounded by empty mugs and 80’s workout attire (I'll be the first to admit that the ugliest clothing tend to be the most comfortable) -- bring out your finest china to drink that medicinal brew, your coziest sweater (or sweater dress), up-cycled cashmere underwear and mukluks and try to be a little bit more glamorously ill... I guarantee it will lift your spirits up. At least a little. And after the spirit, the body will follow - slowly but surely.

While we’re speaking of brews to ward off those flu bugs and chase away the chills: not all medicine tastes awful. Here are a few examples that are easy to brew even if you don’t have a personal nurse or a cook at your disposal. The key is to keep the body warm and hydrated, so it can flush out the toxins and whatever else it's fighting with... So as long as it's not coffee and alcohol - you'll probably benefit from a hot tea or tisane. But some are, of course, more effective:

Fir needle tip tea, which was the aboriginal’s only source of vitamin C throughout the winter months. It has a delicate citrus taste, reminiscent of mandarin oranges. Harvest the new growth needles in the springtime and dry for later use; or purchase from Juniper Ridge.

Another wonderful source of vitamin C is hibiscus flower tea (aka Jamaica), Besides, its ruby-red jewel tones are another reason to bring a smile to one's face. Brew it alone or throw in a few slices of fresh ginger or even a few blueberries (frozen will do) to enhance the flavour and amp up the medicinal properties (ginger is a great warming and anti-microbial brew that's wonderful for chest colds).

If hot water and lemon is your thing, why not spice it up a bit with Bittered Sling Lem-Marrakech? Reminiscent of Moroccan pickled lemon and cardamom, it's sure to add some intrigue to your run of the mill lemon and hot water remedy. Besides, it's got the beneficial "side effects" of relieving fever. 

Ginger, lemon and honey is my long-time go-to whenever I have a cold. It seems to take care of it all - vitamin C, soothing the throat, aiding digestion and warming up the body. Honey also helps the immune system fight foreign invaders, and the whole thing just tastes great, in my humble opinion. Simply slice about a thumb-length of fresh ginger root, top with hot water, add a teaspoon of local unpasteurized honey - and squeeze as much lemon as you can take (up to 1/2 a lemon, preferably organic). You can also slice 1/2 a lemon instead of squeezing it - and eat the entire thing once you finished the brew. It's actually the white pith that contains the most vitamin C in the citrus... 

Sick & Chic

Feeling extra glamorous - and your nose is not 100% plugged and useless? A little perfume won't hurt to lift up your spirits. This is the time for those otherwise in-your-face spicy orientals: they won't feel nearly as overpowering as before (though you still should be careful of overdosing, in case you are surrounded by humans whose noses are not as plugged as yours). Opium, Tabu, Youth Dew - the time is now! And what with their slightly medicinal air of all those oriental spices and patchouli, medicine chests and the Chinese clinic are not an unpleasant association.

Not surprisingly, I'm partial to my Zangvil, which I created exactly when I was feeling cold and sick. It never fails from bringing that feeling of coziness and well-being and just warms me up, with magnolia lily, ginger lily and ginger.

Speaking of ginger lily - it is a rather unusual note that shares some characteristics with ginger root: effervescence, complexity, warmth and sensuality. It started showing up in perfumes such as Dark Amber & Ginger Lily, where it disappears in a blink of an eye and gives way to sheer amber and woodsy musks. In Providence Perfume Co's Ginger Lily, this note is paired with rather bold spices - clove and cinnamon - to create a modern spicy oriental that is all-natural and seductive. But also perfect for those under-the-weather days, when you're not sure if you want a medicine or a perfume.

If your cold has reached the point of needing to steam with eucalyptus or camphor - try a dab of 1000 by Patou, or better yet - Shiso by Aftelier will make you feel glamorous about it. After all, borneol camphor is what the geishas used to scent their kimonos with; and their milky white skins were adorned with a powdered form of incense containing camphor, cassia, sandalwood, agarwood and other sweet spices and herbs. 

Chinatown is one of those powerhouse modern fruity chypres, where more is less (so you might not be as overwhelmed by it when you have a cold!). It also has an unusual concoction of spicy medicinal notes reminiscent of the TCM's clinic, where powdered Don Quai permeates the air, numbing pain an bringing up memories - alongside many other sickeningly bitter herbs.

Mitsouko is another go-to-favourite when things don't go quite so well. It has proven to withstand the test of time (read: bad memories) and even though I was wearing it during a very traumatic time when my daughter was hospitalized - I still enjoy it very much. It's one of those friends that will never leave you, even when all hell breaks lose. It's that good. Besides, it is so perfectly balanced - dry yet sweet, fruity yet spicy, warm yet clean and elegant - that it never fails.

And if nothing at all seems to satisfy you - you can make an aromatherapeutic diffuser blend to keep all those winter bugs at bay, clearing your space while infusing it with a lovely, refreshing smell. You may also use 10-20 drops of this blend in a bath:
20 drops Eucalyptus oil
20 drops Lemon oil
10 drops Ginger oil
10 drops Thyme, Linalool
3 drops Allspice oil

What do you wear when you're feeling ill? Do you just go au-naturelle - or do some scents seem to help you get out of it?
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