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SmellyBlog

Busy days...

Busy days at the studio, as it turns out the holiday season left a larger dent than I expected in my inventory. So many perfumes need to be blended and matured in their vats - both in alcohol and oil forms. It requires concentration (so I can count and measure in Hebrew - so long distance calls from Israel should remain unanswered so I don't loose count), and getting started on any writing project will only distract me and put me in a disadvantage. Especially since time IS a factor: if those batches don't get blended now, it will only delay when they are ready.


The pace of the season is certainly different than market season, where there is no lab time at all (except for some "emergencies"). But it's busy nontheless - almost in a similar way to how summer was: preparing for the next big season (spring), and trying to keep up with orders, as well as beginning new projects for this year.

I have already met with my publicist after deciding what perfumes and/or new products will be released this year. My tea parties and many other special events for the year are already planned out. It's amazing how different this year is from the ones previous to that - after being in the business for 10 years I'm kind of able to predict the future a little better (in terms of anticipating what might happen each season; I'm no psychic!).

And it's also time for inventory count of raw materials, which will lead to ordering new supplies, AGAIN. This is always a big-deal to me both financially and, well - a little emotional too: it's always a toss between buying just what's necessary for the ongoing production (aka tried and true formulas that have been in demand for years) and exploring new raw materials, which will inevitably lead to creating new perfumes. Inventory count is a little scary, and I'm thinking the only way I will get it done this week (as per original plan) is by teaching my interns tomorrow about inventory and supply management. Talking about a teaching moment...

With the lab and client meetings taking the majority of my time this month (interns included! they are here to study and learn more than help), I've found very little time for writing so far. And also, since the nature of my lab work has been mostly production, and not necessarily creative, there is not much to write home about... At least not until a few things get cleared off my big full "to blend" box (I actually have a box like that, the equivalent of an inbox of a clerk in an office environment, only that it smells so much better than paper and ink...).

That is - with the exception of a couple of private-label/custom scents, which I'm DYING to tell you about; but will have to wait till they are ready and my clients are ready to bring to the limelight. I'm also gradually going to need to get back to a few perfumes that have been in the making (or are planned for release in 2012/2013!) that need fine tuning and perfecting, or are missing a name, or are waiting for the right material to complete them.

And another two mammoth projects that I'm going to begin this year - translating my business into the French language (website and labeling), and the cookbook that I've been planning to do. I think just came up with the best excuse for procrastination: I know that if I start either of these, I won't be able to get up and do anything else till the job is done. I'm very task oriented, and with things that take such a long time to produce and require a lot of sitting down and writing, it can be rather painful (physically). I'm going to keep in mind my fanbook, which was done in installments, and kept me constantly feeling inadequate because I still haven't finished writing this bloody thing (not to mention that most of the illustrations - about 98% of them - were original photography of raw materials by yours truly). Part of me knows that the only way to attack these two mammoths is to get started with something. ANYTHING, for that matter. Sort of like sewing a giant patchwork garment for each mammoth. It probably won't matter where I start (with the feet, perhaps?) as long as I start. And the mammoths probably will care very little if they are naked for the next couple of years, because these were some hairy elephants...

That is enough of talking to myself now. Back to the lab I go! But not before I go outside to get a breath of fresh, zero celsius air.

Chocolate & Berries


shy cardinal, originally uploaded by betty wiley.

Today was my first time at the perfumer's organ in a long time. Last time was sometime in October (not counting any blending for replenishing batches). There is simply no room for creativity during market season, it's too busy.
This morning I was finally able to get back to a project I started this fall - the private label perfume for chocolaterie CocoaNymph. I had two directions in mind when I initially drafted my olfactory ideas: one is inspired by the colours of the logo and general whimsical image of the chocolate nymph. The other is inspired by the SeaNymph chocolate bar. Although Rachel was instantly taken with the latter, I decided to go back to the sketch formula and refine the concept I had. Inspired by the berry-like colours (grape-purple, to be exact) of CocoaNymph's logo, I always had in mind this very bold, fruity-chocolate perfume. Something that will be reminiscent of raspberry bonbons (favourites of mine!) or perhaps chocolate-dipped strawberries and a glass of red wine.

What was initially a rather crude rendition of the concept, with cocoa, davana and rose geranium, had to be refined now into something more voluptuous, less herbaceous and more whimsical and urbane. I added some botanical musks to make the base more sophisticated, and fine-tuned the proportions of the davana and geranium, plus added some floral notes that I think will do the trick (and I also think are quite original). I'm really curious to see where this goes after it matures a bit. I have a feeling I stopped adding things at the exact right moment before ruining a good idea... So I'm going to wait patiently for a week and see what happens and how it smells on my skin than.

In the meantime - I have 2 more custom scents to work on (the private label perfume for Gentille Alouette as well as another private client). Not to mention many perfumes that need to be replenished so that I'm fully stocked for the New Year and Valentine's Day (yes, I know it's madness to think of a 2011 hallmark holiday when it's still December 2010, but it really is just 6 weeks away!).

Ginger & White Tea


White Teas, originally uploaded by Ayala Moriel.

Cold rainy morning, and so I'm shivering and cuddling by the fireplace with my morning tea, wishing I would have not taken off my flannel pyjamas and imagining that I'm still in it...

Working too many days a week and too many hours a day sure takes a toll - especially when it cuts into one's sleep. I'm making a pledge with myself to got to bed super early in the next few days if I can help it. And by early I mean 9pm. Yup. I think I must do this if I want to get well for the next weekend show, which is followed by a soiree on Tuesday, leading to the OOAK show on Thursday (and these would be 14 hour days - 8am-10pm), counting commute, prep and clean up at the beginning and end of each day.

So today I intend to stay in, but not just blog/brag/complain about how hard I work and how tough it is to be a one-woman-show, single mother and a business owner in today's economy - I actually wanted to share with you my cup of morning tea :-)

Last year I've been talking a lot abut my ginger and amber perfume , which I created especially for days like today, when you feel under the weather and wish you could stay in your flannel pyjamas and cashmere underwear (apparently, there is such a thing, and although I am not fortunate enough to own a pair, I imagine they would be quite wonderful). This tea is the equivalent of that feeling the tea gives you - sweet and warm and fuzzy but very delicate, with white tea and vanilla and ginger.

Next year I am planning to dedicate to studying teas and the art of tea blending, and would love to bring out a some new teas if I am ready to show them to the world. For now, I'm just sharing with you this morning tea. I think it's simple, elegant and balanced. And it makes me feel a little bit better yet without feeling like I'm drinking medicine.

P.s. This tea was originally designed for my spring-welcoming tea ceremony on March 21st 2010.

Early Winter Plights and Delights


Someone have suddenly lifted the security blanket of clouds and rainfall off the city of Vancouver so that it joins the rest of Canada with its below-zero winter temperatures. And this is before winter has even officially arrived. Even in the coldest winters, (-)9 would be rare, and would certainly not hit us before late December.

I went for a little stroll this morning (40 minutes was more than enough to convince me to stay indoors as much as possible and immerse myself with sedate activities such as storytelling - aka blogging, arts and crafts - aka perfumery).


The plants, as you can see from my stroll in Nelson Park's community gardens, have froze over all the vegetation. Everything looks so miserable - like lettuce that was left unprotected in an refrigerator for far too long. They may look dark green, but there is no life in them whatsoever. The photos above are of two victims - Swiss chard and lavender. But they are not the only ones! Nearly all the evergreen bushes (rhododendrons included) look shrinking, lifeless and frost-bitten. I'm quite relieved that in a sudden moment of sanity before crawling into bed last night I rescued my gardenia bush and let us join the family in the living room.



And I was a little shocked to find that large potted plants were even brought in for a warm cup of spiced apple cider and chai at the local coffee shop!


It is so unusually cold that I think most of us in Vancouver don't even have the proper clothes for the weather. The fireplace at my home is blazing, and I even turned on the electric heat in all the rooms in the house, yet it still does not feel quite as cozy... Even after leaving the fireplace on all night (which I never do), the place is not its usual cozy self, but I'm sure the heat will accumulate after a few more days and nights...

So, in such cold days, in addition to a good cashmere sweater we need something to keep us warm and happy besides recycled cashmere sweaters and and borrowed ugg boots (I usually stay away from this, well, rather ugly indeed footwear, but it's practical in this dry and cold weather) - a little bit of nuts, butter and sugar seems quite appropriate. Especially when it's in a well-made almond croissant (I usually judge bakeries by how well they make their almond croissant - and so far the only descent croissant in town actually happens to be sold at Blenz Coffee).


And a newer discovery of mine are these rosemary caramels from up and coming Nektar Confections & Artisanal Pastries. The sweetness of the burnt sugar and butter is beautifully blanaced by the rosemary that they actually feel rather wholesome... They are yet to have their own website or store front, but you can find them at the Baker's Market, or in special events. I met them at my friend's Mindan home art sale last weekend and fell in love instantly with her simple and elegant shortbreads and with these rosemary caramels.

And last but not least - I intend to spend the remaining of the day at my studio, refilling vats with new batches of perfume that ran out because of all the intense bottling I've been doing in preparations to all my shows. For some strange reason, whatever formulation is out of stock seems to be the one that people end up ordering.

I was up late in the lab last night, making new batches of Fête d'Hiver , Yasmin and Zohar. It was time to refill the little rose otto vial with more otto from the big vat from the supplier... Although my studio upstairs is not freezing cold, it was too cold for this pretty lady (I mean: the rose otto). As I was pouring - always carefully, slowly and gently - a large clear crystal of rose otto (this happens to this delicate essence below room temperature) - blocked the way and caused a minor spillage... Nothing too dramatic, but I am starting to run out of this essence, so every drop is precious. I was able to save some of the otto and collect it into the Fête d'Hiver vat. But for the remaining of the night my desk, hands, face and brain smelled like pure organic rose otto from Bulgaria... A pretty inspiring way to drift off to sleep.

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Location:Haro St,Vancouver,Canada

Studio in a Box

The next 4 weeks I will be doing at least 1 show a week... So instead of spending the precious time packing and unpacking I will be keeping all the stock boxed. It's organized enough that I can still pack orders as usual...
And although this will make my live/work space a little less pretty (7 blue rubbermaid boxes stacked on the dolly) - this is not elegant, but it sure is organized, and it will enable me to do things I enjoy more, such as:
1) Doing some creative work in my lab, which is the best way I can think of for unwinding and relaxing (I've become a bit of a workaholic this season)
2) Blending new batches of perfumes that are out of stock
3) Blogging!
I'm heading out for a stroll in the cold air now, in search for wintery inspiration, to clear my head, and also so that I can appreciate the blazing fire place and my cozy abode even more...
I will be back soon with some ideas and with more blog posts about the one of a kind perfumes I have lined up for the One of a Kind show. But I probably will have to spend time first preparing lables for a few custom scents that have been waiting to be tagged for quite some time...
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