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SmellyBlog

News from the Nose: The Smell of Freedom


 
Dear Fragrant Friends,
"MRS. LANDINGHAM: (refering to her car)... And when you get inside, there's this... (Mrs. Landingham gestures, trying to find the right word).
BARTLET: Smell?
MRS. LANDINGHAM: How did you know?
BARTLET: It's the smell of freedom...and the chemicals they treat the dashboard with".

(Aaron Sorkin, "The West Wing", S2 E21 "18th and Potomac")
The season of freedom is here, and with it the celebration of independence both in Canada (July 1st) and Fourth of July in the United States. Before you all take off to blow off firecrackers gather for a neaighbourhood barbecue or canoing expedition - let's take a moment or two to relish in the smell of freedom. After all, this is what makes the North American continent so admirable.
And I'd like to wish a peaceful Ramadan and easy fasting to those of among you celebrating this month. Ramadan Mubarak!
To celebrate all these important holidays with you, I'm offering FREE SHIPPING on all orders through July 7th. Also, early bird registration for this fall's perfumery courses, and pre-orders for my new book are extended till then.  

1. Smells like Canada Contest 

Judging by names alone, you'll find three obvious sources of inspiration in my perfumes: Israel, Japan, and of course my birth country and where I've been calling home for some odd fifteen years: Canada.
The great Canadian landscape alone brings to mind freedom and possibilities. The pure air inspires clear thoughts, and tolerance, politeness and honesty seems to the trait this nation holds dear and practices on a daily basis.
As far as smells goes, I can assure you that my perfumes are as polite as can be! Even though Canada is known for its ongoing policies against offensive odours, you can be sure your co-workers won't even notice that you've snicked on some Espionage on your wrists... Unless they decide to sexually harass you, which is very unlikely in our law-abiding country (thank goodness to that!).
But office and other politics aside - Canada's natural wild floral an fauna, while not as diverse as its citezens, is utterly abundant. Here you'll find more coniferous trees then anywhere in the world. No matter how hard we try to log them, those trees keep growing back, thankfully! 
Canada is coniferous trees and maple syrup from coast to coast, perhaps with a touch of castoreum... Yet somehow, every year I discover a new fragrant plant that is inspiring and unique to this continent. You can read more in the 2014 edition of "Smells Like Canada" on SmellyBlog, and also add a comment for a chance to win a Gaucho mini, and handmade incense cones inspired by the First Nationas smudging ceremony with sage and tobacco.

2.Fir + Fur = Canada

Smell like Canada while supporting small Canadian businesses - choose from the following Canadian-inspired fragrances: 

FUR: You won't find any Canadian beaver secretions (aka castoreum) in any of my perfumes, because they are cruelty free. But Espionagecomes as close as it gets to good ol' Canadian fur. In this case, I've used cade oil (destructive distillation of juniper) to create the smoky, tannin quality of leather, along with tobacco leaf and loads of vanilla and tonka bean. The result has been compared to single malt whiskey and pipe tobacco. 

Enjoy fir and many other coniferous notes (cedar, pine, spruce, juniper...) both in the sharp, refreshing essential oil, and the sweeter, almost jam-like and resinous absolute form, where they add a unique sweetness to these perfumes: 
FIR: Fetishis that rare thing - an unboring citrus: jasmine green tea, fir absolute, rhododendron and vanilla give the most popular citrus notes of lemongrass, lemon verbena, grapefruit and bergamot an unusual twist as well as lasting power. It's a summery love affair! 

PINE: Rainforest was ironically my attempt at creating the scent of earh-after-rain in Israel using spikenard - a rare biblical root that smells like wet earth . I must have added too much pine and spruce, because it smells exactly like Stanley Park!


MAPLE: Immortelle l'Amour was inspired by the Quebeqoise maple-harvets celebration, and the Tire sur le Neiges tradition of making taffy on spring's last snow. Maple-scented helicrysum is paired with notes of cinnamon waffles and orange juice essence - bringing brunch to a whole new level of seductive gourmand goodness. 

SPRUCE: Orcasis not just about sea salt and whales - but also the beatuiful ancient rainforests that kiss the Pacific oceans. Black Hemlock Spruce absolute plays an important role here, and thre is even an Orcas Beard Oil, so that you can untangle your locks after a day at sea. EauMG described it as follows: "Trying this again,  I was reminded of just how much I like the Orcas fragrance. The Beard Oil is a sharp, green geranium with fresh rosemary. It’s bitter-green-fresh with salt air".

RED CEDAR: Blackbeard Oil has become somewhat of a cult fragrance. EauMG recently reviewed it for Father's Day "Smells like red cedar at a lumberyard and dries down to a soft sandalwood. It’s an astringent woodsy-woods lumberjack fragrance". It's also a great way to keep your hipster beard looking and smelling fresh while camping.

3. Whimsical Wintergreen and Sacred Tobacco

There is no other scent more American to me than wintergreen. It’s in American toothpastes and chewing gums, and also in the ever so popular and oddly flavoured root beer. I don’t think there is anywhere else in the world where wintergreen is perceived so fondly (except for Canada, perhaps, but I suspect we learned that from you...). In Europe, wintergreen and sweet birch are used only for cleaning purposes, and Europeans are puzzled by the American fondness for root beer. Because of the salicylates content, wintergnreen oil is valuable for joint pain relief and to ease muscle spasms (but must be diluted first to avoid skin irritation). However, true wintergreen is difficult to come by, as it's usually replaced by pure methy salicylate.

Treazonis the only perfume I created with wintergreen. This is the real stuff, steam distilled from wild wintergreen leaves and blossoming tops (Gaultheria fragrantissima). I used it to accentuated the bitter, medicinal and slightly grape-like aspects of tuberose. The wild wintergreen, along with birch, really brings out the intensity of the flower after dark. Add to that vanilla, a hint of cinnamon, hyraceum and orange blossom  and - voila! A killer tuberose was born! It was even nominated for the 2013 Indie FiFi Awards.

Tobacco is a sacred plantin all Native American tribes. The first to use it were probably the Mayan Indians, and its use was spread throughout the entire continent. Tobacco was an essential element in most Native American rituals, and was used in different ways: placed as an offering to the gods or the spirits, burnt on the fire, smoked in a pipe or the leaves were rolled into the ancient forms of cigars in South and Central America (at times also elaborately decorated). Pipes were smoked to “seal deals” and agreements between tribes. The pipes themselves have a symbolic meaning: the “straw” part is considered projective or masculine, and the bowl where the tobacco is burnt is considered receptive, or feminine. There is a significance to the materials from which the pipes are made as well, and cultural messages hidden within the decoration of some pipes (which has become particularly elaborate in Central and Southern America).
I love working with tobacco, and have created several perfumes with it, including my best-selling Espionage, and the whimsical Rebellius, which has a sweeter, almost chocolatey take on tobacco; the soapy-clean Sabotage, and the pipe-tobacco scent of Espionage. I would love to hear from you what scents you think are typically American.

4. Media Clips: Now Smell This, CafleureBon, EauMG

Visit Now Smell This to read Robin's review of my newest perfume, Musk Malabi:
"It's bright and cheerful, and perfect for spring. Very much worth a try for anyone, but especially recommended for neroli freaks. I would love to have a bottle of Musk Malabi, along with Moriel's equally cheerful Etrog Oy de Cologne".

 
EauMG reviews our two masculine grooming oils: Blackbeard Oil and Orcas Hair & Beard Oil:
"...if you like natural oils and if you think you’d like smelling like a lumberyard or salt air, then don’t let 'beard' shy you away. These are high-quality oils with great fragrances".

Cafleurebon dubbed Les Nuages de Joie Jauneas one of the world's top 10 mimosa perfumes! Too bad that I have to let this one go. There is one last bottle waiting for you here. 
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5. Stanley Park Rose Garden Stroll July 17th + Private Workshops

 
Lots of workshops and classes coming up - at my studio and outdoors. I'm re-discovering the wonderful world of roses, with a renewed interest in this classic flower especially after teaching a similar class in VanDusen Gardens earlier in June. 

July 17th, 5-7pm: Rose Garden Stroll & Scent Salon

Stop and smell the roses!
Join master perfumer Ayala Moriel for a delightful afternoon at Stanley Park's classic Rose Garden. This interactive class will explore the evolution of the rose, as a flower and a fragrance. Find out how the yellow colour in hybrid tea roses affects their perfume (i.e.: the Tahitian Sunset rose pictured below smells like apricot and vanilla!), how rose oil is distilled and extracted, and see some examples of the rose’s unique place in art, poetry, mystical botanical symbolism, and of course - perfume. Rosy refreshments will be served picnic-style.
$46/per person, including a sample of rose perfume you'll take home with you! Limited to 15 participants.
Contact me via phone (778) 863-0806 or email to book your spot.
Additionally, I will have my Rose Connoisseur Summer Coffret for sale at the garden, with 8 of my rosiest perfume: Bouquet of Love, Cabaret, Fête d'Hiver, Roses et Chocolat, Rosebud, Song of Songs, Tea Rose and Ayala Moriel's newest perfume: Musk Malabi.
While perfume may be what is at the very heart of Ayala Moriel Parfums, we also offer many other fragrant workshops and experiences- such as our private workshops on the making of everything from perfume and bath products to all-natural, floral-water icecream. Treat yourself and five of your favorite people (maximum capacity is 6 people) to a private perfumed retreat! Private Perfumed Parties are also available for larger groups (up to 15 participants).

6. Early Bird & Book Pre-order Extended till July 7th

Now it’s time to plan the next term in my perfume school, coming up this fall, with two courses at the end of September and beginning of October: Chypres week (September 22-27, 2014) and Leather/Tobacco Week(September 29 - October 3, 2014). Early Bird rates (20% off) are in effect till June 22nd. If you're a new student, please apply by emailing me with a CV and a coverletter.

Correspondence Course, Private Lessons & New Book!

If you are not able to attend my classes in person, you can sign up for my correspondence course which includes the Foundation of Natural Perfumery Book plus 5 one-hour sessions with me via phone/Skype. I also offer private sessions - either in person at my studio, or via phone/Skype for $200/hr -  perfect for students who live remotely and need to brush up on certain lab skills, techniques or want to get personal feedback for their work. The 2014 edition of the  Foundations of Natural Perfumery Book is now available for pre-order, and will be completed late summer/early fall. Pre-orders are helping me greatly in setting off some of the printing and graphic re-design costs, as this will be self published. We are printing it here in Vancouver; and also will be offering an electronic edition online later this year.

Wishing you all a Happy Canada Day, Ramadan Kareem and Happy Fourth of July!

Ayala

The Smell of Freedom - 2014 Edition of "Smells Like Canada"

MRS. LANDINGHAM: Consumer Reports rates it very high. It's very safe. And when you get inside, there's this... (Mrs. Landingham gestures, trying to find the right word).
BARTLET: Smell? MRS. LANDINGHAM: How did you know?
BARTLET: It's the smell of freedom...and the chemicals they treat the dashboard with.

(Aaron Sorkin, "The West Wing", S2 E21 "18th and Potomac")

I've covered almost any scent that I consider Canadian in the last 2 years since I've started "Smells Like Canada". Douglas fir, maple syrup, rhubarb, tobacco, mildew, snow, artemisia (known in this parts of the world as "sage" even though it's not), elderflowers, Canadian gin, cherry red cedar, and castoreum from the Canadian beaver. To that list I can only add two more scents that somehow got ignored in previous years:
 
1) Black Locust (Robinia pseudoacacia) aka False Acacia - a native to the Eastern parts of the continent; and which smells like a sweet blend between heliotrope and orange blossom.

2) Linden blossoms (Tilia vulgaris) which although are not native to here, are in full bloom at this very moment, and line many of the streets and boulevards of Vancouver, painting the city's olfactory landscape with the colour of clear, blue sky.

3) Sweet Grass (Hierochloe odorata), aka Holy Grass or Vanilla Grass -
neatly braided and ceremonially burnt by the prairie First Nation people for its coumarin-sweet character to invite positive energy into the circle (after it's been cleansed with sage).

This year I want to focus on what freedoms smells like. To the fictional American President Bartlett it's the smell of new car. What is it to you?

To me it's the smell of chlorine as you approach the pool in the summer. The smell of hay stacks on which you can jump and free-fall with complete oblivion to any risk of injury. The scent of saltwater and marine life at low tide - complete with fermented seaweed, muscles and barnacles and jet fuel and boat fuel. And the knowledge that for the next few hours the world's worries will come to a halt because you're at the beach. The smell of coconutty tanning oil and tropical sunscreen won't hurt either. But now I'm really getting carried away...

No matter what smell association freedom, summertime or Canada has to you - freedom itself is priceless. And the commitment to this value is what makes this country so special. Of course it doesn't hurt that we're not really at war with anyone, at least not at our borders. Which of course makes for a lot less conflict of interest between "freedom" and "safety". Something that a lot of Canadians are either not aware of - or just haven't ever needed to experience that kind of conflict.
To be a Canadian means to live in peace, in a country where everyone is indeed considered equal, and where the mandate in public schools is to educate our young children to accept the other without prejudice. As long as public schools are open (which is a whole other issue...). Additionally we get to drink clean water and breathe pure air. Or at least cleaner and purer than many other countries - both industrial and third world ones. Yes, we can be better, but that does not mean we should not appreciate what we do have going for us. Not to mention we don't need to worry about our kids getting kidnapped, or murdered, by terrorists, and that pretty much tops it all, doesn't it? 
We are truly blessed.

And now, to this year's contest: What does freedom smell to you? Add your thoughts in the comment section, or add any Canadian smells that I might have missed.
Winner gets a mini of my Gaucho perfume, which is the closest thing to the smell of sweetgrass; and incense cones that are inspired by the First Nations ceremonial smudging. It has tobacco leaf and sage (true sage from the Mediterranean, not the white sage grown locally). It smells amazing, and I only share this with very few people.

Smells Like Canada, 2013 Edition...

Maple & Asphalt

Happy Canada Day!

Last year I did a little post and giveaway for Canada Day, which was spontaneous and completely improvised... Today I'm preoccupied with teaching my Floriental week-long intensive course, so I'll keep it short.

 I'd like to add a few more smells to the growing list of Canadian odours I'm fond of and sentimental about:

Artemisia:
Artemisia is the true (Latin) name of what most refer to as "sage". This sacred plant is burnt by the First Nations of Canada at the beginning of rituals to clear space of all negative energy. I begin with this unique plant as a gesture to the original people of this country and as a gesture for healing for the many wounds that the Europeans have inflicted on them ever since landing in the "New World". The local "Sage" has an overwhelmingly intoxicating aroma (wormwood is the only comparison I can make - and technically it IS wormwood). Tannin, acrid, full of ketones and strongly herbaceous and medicinal-bitter. That should make all the negative stuff go away, for sure. 

Elderflower: 
Elderflowers have became an annual obsession last year, when I made cordial for the first time from flowers I bought at the farmers' market; followed by a few more batches of cordial and tinctures from wild-foraged flowers. Their scent has a unique character, simultaneously fruity-berry-like (cassis comes to mind) as well as honeyed-floral and slightly green. If you missed the foraging season, try buying dry flowers and mixing them with osmanthus. Also, Shaktea's Elderlower Cantaloupe Tea is spectacular (green darjeeling with elderflowers, cantaloupe, rhubarb and other botanicals). It makes a fantastic iced tea as well.

Juniper and Canadian Gin:
Juniper are a quintessential foresty scent that is unique as it is not just a straighforward coniferous scent; but also woodsy and spicy at the same time, with a clean and elegant appeal. 
A few years ago, the most exotic gin you can get was Tanquary Ten and Hedricks' Gin. This week, I was pleasantly surprised to find the shelves at the liquor store brimming with local offerings, including oak-aged gin from Vancouver Island, and this particularly strange number, Ungava gin, featuring arctic botanicals such as Nordic juniper berries, rose hips, Labrador tea, cloudberry, crowberry and an "arctic blend" of secret botanicals. It has a beautiful bright yellow colour, and goes well with elderflower liquor, bitters or cordial to make a very refreshing and Canadian-forest like cocktail!

Red Cedarwood:
Nothing says "Pacific Northwest" better than red cedar (also known as cherry cedar). The oil is hard to come by, and is a little harsh and intensely smoky, but also got some interesting fruity-berry nuances that are not unlike cherries. It also strangely reminds me of the Canadian whiskey, Crown Royal: Burning yet sweet.


Castoreum:
Castoreum is probably one of Canada's most important contribution to the world of perfumery. It goes oh so well with birch, another Canadian tree reminiscent of wintergreen, and that can be produced into "birch tar" by destructive distillation.
 Douglas Fir:
Douglas fir is a uniquely fragrant tree, also special for the Pacific Northwest. Its needles are deliciously packed with vitamin C and can be added to your drinking water for an added tangerine-like flavour, and - vitamin C. In the springtime, pick the new buds that are as soft as silk tassels. Dry them and prepare a sweet and sour citrusy wild tea. It's also wonderful blended with jasmine tea, which reminds me of my perfume Fetish (the perfume features the deliciously jam-like balsam fir absolute).

Rhubarb:
Sliced rhubarb reminds me of the ocean and ozone and it is ever so refreshing with its sour crunch. Also a recent discovery of mine (and I'm sure the plant is not unique to Canada but also is ever so popular all across North America); but to me it's as distinctively Canadian as cranberry and maple.

Tobacco:
Also a sacred plant to the First Nations, Tobacco was used for healing and for the famous "Peace Pipe". It's use in perfumery is limited, but it makes its mark in the Chypre-Tobacco category and in Leathery perfumes. Also will go well with the abovementioned birch.

Leave a comment with more ideas for what smells like Canada (and Native American botanicals of significance), and enter to win a mini of Immortelle l'Amour - which is about as Canadian as it can get, reminiscent of maple syrup poured over hot cinnamon waffles!





Happy Canada Day!

Happy Canada Day by ankakay
Happy Canada Day, a photo by ankakay on Flickr.

Hope you all had a happy and wonderful Canada Day!

And sending a far-away shout-out to the other Canadian perfumers scattered around the country and the globe, some of them I am lucky to know in person and be friends with. Ineke Ruhland (Ineke), Jessica Buchanan (1000Flowers), Isabelle Michaud, Susanne Lang and Claude Andre Hebert.

It's been what we consider a "nice weather day" in Vancouver - aka not rainy. Overcast mostly, which only encouraged wearing Immortelle l'Amour (a rather wintery scent otherwise, which resembles maple taffy...) and baking mapley things (maple & hazelnut granola, anyone?); but the sun finally decided to grace us at the end of the day so we went for a picnic on the beach with watermelon and feta cheese to match the colours of the Canadian flag.

And since tomorrow is going to be a holiday too for many Canadians, let's begin the Monkey Monday giveaway tonight:
If you're not Canadian, share with us your favourite Canadian perfume; and if you live in Canada or ever visited here - I would love to hear from you what scents (natural or otherwise) represent Canada to you.

Among the readers who leave a comment, I'll be giving away a little whiff of the Pacific forests and Stanley Park in particular: a mini bottle of Rainforest.

Happy Canada Day!


Happy Canada Day!, originally uploaded by Ian Muttoo.

Happy Canada Day!!!

To celebrate the beauty of this vast country of maple, fir and incredible people I would like to offer you, my beloved Canadian customers, free shipping within Canada on all orders made from now (July 1st) till July 5th (your order will be refunded the shipping amount after you checkout - so don't panic when you get charged shipping on the way out :-).

I'm heading off to the beach to enjoy this beautiful day and will hopefully be able to resume posting as usual by Monday when my daughter starts summer camp and I can get some work done for a change ;-)

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