Perfumer's Year End Review and an Outlook to 2007

This year has been particularly fruitful for me as a perfumer. It was marked for me as the year of acknowledgement of my work as the word is gradually spreading around about what I do in my little perfumery. But this was already discussed and announced throughout the year. What I would like to write about here today is how this year has been for me from a creative point of view and a little more about my vision and outlook for the upcoming year 2007.

The Search for Simplicity
It all started with Viola (in Summer 2004). The most simple perfume I’ve ever created, yet with an unmistakable scent of violet flower. As violet flower absolute is not available, this was quite an achievement – but this was more than a violet accord, this was a perfume on its own right. Viola has even less ingredients than I had in my two other simple and modest soliflores, Lovender (Summer 2002) and Rosebud (Spring 2003).
While in my earlier stages as a perfumer, I was lead to believe that what makes a perfume a true perfume (as opposed to just a “blend”), is how many essences are in it – and the more the better – I started to examine other approaches for perfumery besides that. As in many other cases - it’s more about the quality than quantity. How do the notes interact? What makes them beam and shine, what makes them want to play together and create something new.

So, instead of using as many essences as I can pack into a perfume without making it smell muddy, and still make a definite statement where the notes interact but not clash – this year I was mostly interested in stripping the perfume down to the minimum of essences that would be needed to create a perfume. I was enjoying the process and the results so much that I have launched a whole line based on that concept – “The Language of Flowers”. This collection of soliflores is an exercise in creating a perfume while respecting the original aroma of one particular note.

The Language of Flowers

This collection really is what it says – each perfume tells the story of a single flower. It’s not so much about fantasy like most of my other perfumes, as it is a minimalist painting of the essence of a flower and its surrounding. For those who know me well, the soliflore collection is somewhat of a surprise, because my favourite perfumes to wear are not florals at all but Chypres and Orientals. But for those who know me really well this should not come as a surprise at all, as I was in love and obsessed with flowers since a very young age, and was caught talking to them and searching for the fairies and the spirits that live inside them ever since I can remember myself (I did stop doing this literally as I grew up, and switched to more socially acceptable forms of expressing my interest though, such as perfumery, so you won't find me doing this now).

This year I have created several soliflores, all quite different from one another, yet there is a single thread connecting between them all: each is devoted to a single flower, and is extending different aspects in the flower while the main theme remains the evolution of the scent - a day in a life of a flower.

Yasmin is all about jasmine, from dawn to a summer night; Zohar is an orange flowers in an orchard in the spring; Les Nuages de Joie Jaune is a sunny spring day with mimosa pollen clouding the air to the point of intoxication; and Kinmokusei is the osmanthus apricot and tea and suede scented flowers washing in the dark rains of late Autumn.

The jasmine notes in Yasmin are lifted by a hint of mimosa to create a dewy, early morning blossoms opening just before sunrise, and are sustained till midnight with a light incensey amber base.

The orange blossom notes in Zohar are sweetened and lightened by citrus fruit notes (also to illustrate the fruit that is still on the trees at the time of the year and re-create that olfactory experience), and anchored by a honeyed amber base as well as the unusually dark note of broom absolute.

The mimosa notes in Les Nuages de Joie Jaune, which otherwise are a very fleeting and unstable top notes, are grounded by cassie flower absolute (a species of mimosa that is actually a base note), and a hint of jasmine acts as a bridge between the two.

In Kinmokusei, the fruity aspects of osmanthus flower are extended by wild orange and apricot essence, the the green tea notes are extended with linden blossom and green tea, while the base portrays the leathery, suede like qualities of osmanthus with notes of tobacco and hay absolutes.

Richness and Tranquility
My work on Film Noir may seem to contradict the simplicity I was seeking in most of my new perfumes this year. But a close look will reveal that this is actually just as simple: it includes only three components, and are all base notes. Myrrh, Patchouli and Chocolate. It is the use of different types of patchouli with different qualities that makes this perfume rich and project complexity and sophistication.

Razala, on the other hand, is another story. Here is where I really went wild and used my own “classic” method of using many different and rich essences, at times contradicting, and put them all together to create something harmonious and beautiful. Razala marks a point of what my favourite current notes are. Saffron, pink pepper, orange blossom, magnolia, broom, tuberose, rose, oudh, myrrh, antique patchouli (aged to the point of perfection) and to top it all off – ambergris tincture, the real thing!
However, as complex as this is, the result to me is harmonious and tranquil... Quite puzzling, actually.

Sabotage, the new masculine perfume in my collection this year, is actually a reformulation of an earlier creation by the same name, also surrounding vetiver, tobacco and citrus leaves. But while the original was quite rustic and earthy, the new rendition is far more elegant and refined, with more space inbetween the notes and the composition is of course slightly different and far more luxurious – with orange blossom absolute and orange flower water absolute. There is also some tonka bean at the base, which adds something unique to the tobacco and vetiver. Even though it’s very different from Razala, it has a similar air to it in the balance between complexity and simplicity.

Important Notes
This year, for me, was truly marked with the admiration for particular notes. And while jasmine was nothing new to me as a perfumery material, I did discover things I didn’t know about it before by working on Yasmin. Orange blossom absolute, osmanthus and cassie were new and exciting notes that really fascinated me to work with. And so was broom.

Another re-discovery, or in fact, a true first discovery in a lot of ways for me, was patchouli. Breaking out of the box and the hippie cliché was a challenge, and I am now smelling patchouli afresh, from a completely different point of view. The sources for raw materials are what makes all the difference here. A patchouli that was carefully harvested, dried, matured and distilled is completely different from the patchouli found in so many aromatherapy and health food stores. It really makes all the difference, just like in wine – if this comparison is of any help. I think Film Noir really proves that patchouli is a luxurious and magical note that has a lot more to it than masking the fumes of marijuana…

Outlook for 2007
I am planning to tone down a bit the releases of perfumes. At this point, without counting the Zodiac perfumes (which, by the way, seem to have very little interest to anyone except me 6 years ago and therefore may become an “on demand only” production item) – I offer almost 40 different perfumes. This makes packaging really complicated, not to mention having samples and testers for all of them. I still have a few exciting perfumes that I would like to add to the collection, but I am going to slow down on the new releases and focus more on promoting the line as a whole and the “old favourites” which truly deserved to be known just as much as the new exciting thing.

My plans are to release three more soliflores, which I am going to try hard not to reveal their identities too soon; I will just tell you that one of them will come in the spring, and it’s called Tirzah – a linden blossom soliflore. It’s not completely a new perfume because I released a very similar scent in 2005, but had to discontinue it because I discovered the linden blossom sold to me was fake! The new formulation, however, preserves most of the sparkling qualities of the previous version, so those of you who loved “Linden Blossom” from 2004 would be delighted.
The other two soliflores will be released in the fall, as they are quite warm and sweet and even spicy, and will be a nice way to ease into winter.
I am also working quite feverishly on another perfume which will have to remain top secret. I will only say this: if you loved the intensity and boldness, and unusual gourmand richness of Film Noir, you will love this one. It’s also going to be quite simple, yet luxurious!

Coming mid-January and for the approaching Valentine’s Day, you will also be able to indulge in a limited edition called Roses et Chocolat – which is exactly what the name implies as these two notes are the theme for the perfume which tries to provide three gifts that declare love in only one flacon: roses, chocolate and perfume, of course!
The notes include pink pepper, mace and three varieties of roses, over a base of chocolate, amber and benzoin.
Roses et Chocolate will be offered on its own, in a heart-decorated box, or in a collection of Love Potions for Valentine’s Day: either with the two other chocolate based perfumes (Guilt and Film Noir), or with Guilt and Razala.

Significant Olfactory Event of the Year
This is my trip to Israel this spring. An experience that must be repeated every year to maintain my sanity. The inspiration that the desert flowers in springtime brings to me and the power boost I get for the rest of the year from re-connecting with the nature that raised me is something that I wish for myself I could do every single year as long as I live. It was thanks to this trip that I managed to truly complete my perfume Zohar, which really smells like the orange blossom orchards back home.

Second-runners for the fame are other not any less important events though not as emotional for me:
- The new packaging fro my perfumes (which will be even better next year, wait and see!)
- My trip to NYC and my perfume discoveries there (the most important one being that I really do enjoy traveling alone!)
- Stronger relationships with my esteemed suppliers
- And last but not least - this very humble blog, which I am loving and enjoying. My love of writing about perfumes seconds only my love for creating and smelling perfumes. I am also very grateful for all the new friendships I have forged with other bloggers and with SmellyBlog readers.

Technical Goals for 2007
I am the most clumsy tinctures the world have seen, and this is something that I would like to change this year. Tincturing is an art on its own right, and I think I will have to overcome my very unsuccessful experience in the past and learn this art from scratch. There are plendy of flowers and special herbs in my home village in Israel that I miss and I would love to be able to tincture them when I visit. My tinctures of olive resin (a true rarity which I will have to dedicate an entire post for) just reminded me of how fabulous it would be to incorporate indigenous plants from home in my perfumes. That would add a completely new dimension to the perfume itself, as well as the creative process, in all the sensual aspects (touch, smell as well as visually).

Wishes for the New Year
I wish for myself that you will love my perfumes as much as I do – or better yet – more than I do.
I also wish for my business to finally have its own space somewhere downtown, an attractive studio gallery space that will be as minimal and organized as could be, and plenty of fun. This way you could drop in for visits whenever you want to be pampered by genuine scents of our world that are out of this world gorgeous – the scents that Mother Nature allows us to steal from her and capture in little coveted flacons.

I invite you all to join me here on SmellyBlog and tell other readers of the olfactory landmarks in your lives this year. Be it a particularly marvellous perfume or a whiff of a special flower or herb - we want to hear what your year smelled like!

Best of 2006

Well, everybody else is doing it, and I love making lists, so I am joining the party!
Instead of using the usual categories (i.e. the best of fragrance family this or that or evening or day time perfumes, etc.) I am going to summarize my olfactory events of this year, perfume-wearing wise (My next post will cover my personal view of the year past from my point of view as a perfumer). I invite you to join me here and tell me which perfumes brought laughter and pleasure to your life this year, and that you would like to remember this year by.

The Discovery of the Year:
Farnesiana by Caron.
This pure parfum of acacia flowers (relative to the mimosa but with deeper notes) is brilliant and original. Paired with vanilla and almondy heliotrope notes, it is modern even decades after it was created. It makes most of the current gourmands look shallow and silly, and shows that there is no end to innovation in perfumery, even when it comes to … well, florals…

Favourite New Niche Perfume of the Year:
Songes by Annick Goutal
I finally found a Goutal I love!
This magical white floral by Isabelle Doyen is everything I need in a floral: a soft opening (rather than heady), a complexity (ylang ylang, jasmine, gardenia, nost just one note) and a sweet, comforting base to ensure interest, richness and longevity. This is soft, opulent and envelopes me with comfort and beauty.

Favourite New Mainstream Perfume of the Year:
L by Lolita Lempika.
I was so underwhelmed by it when I first smelled it on a scent stripe when it came out in the summer. Wait till the weather cools down, and try it on your skin – it’s like melting vanilla on your skin and like melted buttery cookies in your mouth. I don’t find the immortelle particularly apparent though. A tint of orange and cinnamon makes it a bit interesting at the top, but overall it’s a wonderfully linear scent. It’s another loveable creation from Maurice Roucel, with his signature chic vanilla.
Favourite scented body product:

Favourite Classic of the Year:

Le Parfum de Therese
This genius of a Chypre seems to have so much to offer yet is very lighthearted. I think it’s exactly what I need and it is now my most favourite of all the classic Chypres that I own. I like the cheerful sparkling citrus and tart plum, the rejuvenation of basil and the watery melon notes, the luscious yet light jasmine, and the subtley complex base notes, with just a hint of leather for dryness and the classic Chypre accord. It seems to be perfectly balanced and balancing, as a good Chyre should be, and oh so flexible. The only reason I don’t wear it all the time is because I savour it for warm days so it will remind me of the gorgeous hot spring days in Jerusalme in my previous visit there, when I wore it between dry stones and beating, blinding sun rays and it was as appropriate as a simple linen dress.

My Surprise of the Year:
I like Jo Malone’s Vintage Gardenia. In fact, I enjoy Jo Malone quite a bit recently, but this scent is going to be an all-time favourite. It just hits me in the right spot. It’s elegant and clean and simple, but not too simple. It reminds me of things past but not painfully so. I like it on its own or with a tiny amount of Black Vetyver Café, which I think works utterly well with the cardamom note in it. But otherwise I find layering quite confusing to my nose… I found myself wearing it day after day for over a week's period which is quite unusual for me. Yet another white floral I like, besides my own Tamya and White Potion, and this year's new love - Songes!

My 180 Degrees Twist of Fate of the Year:
I love Narciso Rodriguez!
Well, after having a longish love&hate affair with Narciso Rodriguez I finally settled down and am ready for commitment. I have just about every size possible of this scent and carry it almost always with me when I travel. This spring I really ennoyed it immensely, and I find that it is one of the most original modern creations possible. I am even going to give it full attention by dedicating a review of it on my blog. Really soon!

The Re-Discovery of the Year:
(And by this I mean a scent I haven’t worn for a long time and re-discovered it’s beauty this year).
I am afraid to say – none. I have been mostly indulging myself with perfumes that are new to me, and for some reason staying away from my old time favourites for the most time. I have worn very little Mitsouko, Shalimar, Vol de Nuit or any other Guerlain classic this year. Which is kind of sad in a way… I think I needed to stay away from the flood of emotions they contain within them. I think Miss Dior (or more so, the mourning of it’s reformulation) was the main event for me in that area. I have fallen in love with it again, and have been really digging the lighter Chypre qualities in it (the green top notes, that is). Perhaps is says something about me – is it not wanting to go to deep emotionally? Is my taste changing? Am I becoming a shallow gal who can only get excited about new things? I think it’s seeking simplicity and enjoying a perfume for a more extended amount of time, and it was new ones (to me) that really answered to my mood this year.

Self Discovery of the Year:
I like lighter scents.
I find myself staying away from my heavy orientals and chypres more than usual, and leaning towards woody, musky compositions more often than ever. Scents that I find myself surprised to return to over and over again are the ones that I have been wearing the most this year (see below).

Most worn this year: The perfumes I have been wearing the most this year are also more simple, and tend to be more dry than sweet. I think the top-worn are:
Narciso Rodriguez
Le Parfum de Therese
Vintage Gardenia
Agent Provocateur

The Disappointment of the Year:
Black Orchid by Tom Ford
I am neither a fan nor a hater of Tom Ford and his olfactory concepts. When his first scent was approaching, I was easily able to hold myself together and wait till whenever it hits the local counters. Though the packaging is quite beautiful (though not particularly original, considering the similar designs of Nuit de Noel and Habanita which preceeded Black Orchid by decades), the name is particularly corny and over used in my opinion. So you see, when I mean disappointment I refer to it purely in the olfactory sense.
At first, Black Orchid seems to stand up to all the expectations it tried to set in the packaging and marketing campaign. The opening notes are definitely luxurious, Femme-Fatale infuses mushroom sautéed in their very own arrogant sexual secretion while deeply inhaling spices. There is some nicely done chocolate accord as well… But if you think this is the base, you have been miserably deceived. These carnal notes wear off quickly, gradually revealing a phase of rum-soaked berries (not so bad on their own, really) and than a short lived rose opens up, only to be brutally murdered by an aquatic patchouli accord. From now on it will only go downhill, resembling a better-version-of-Allure-Sensuelle, which while is quite an achievement on its own rights, it is also frightfully disappointing in its own original way:
In Black Orchid, Tom Ford had proved to the world that it is possible to create a perfume with marvelous opening that smells worser and worser as it develops on the skin, thus creating the most disappointing fragrance of 2006.

* I can accept the idea of a perfume opening with less than lovely notes, and becoming better thanks to interaction with the skin (though this is not always the case, of course, because of body chemistry etc.). But to intentionally create such a devolution from fantastic to unoriginal is quite insulting.

Favourite Scented Body Product:
Azuree Body Oil
This is a really fun scent to wear, and I have been particularly enjoying it over the summer. It’s not so heavy as it may sound. And the texture is not too oily either, albeit rather moisturizing. You can read my full review here. I also found out I actually like body oils quite a lot, in the summer anyways. It adds a nice protective layer before swimming in an over-bleached swimming pool, or truely salty ocean - and the scent is nice when blended with either of these chemicals...

The Best “I Love It But I Never Wear It” Perfume of the Year:

Like Cait, I discovered this much later than anyone else, just this summer. Not the best time to try Chinatown if you ask me… It is one of the most unusual perfumes I recently added to my collection, though I know some will disagree and compare it to something else. I think it’s unusual for its combination of spices, florals and sweet patchouli and vetiver base. I only wish I had more occasions to wear it, as it just doesn’t work for me in every day use (and I am known for wearing whatever I want whenever I want). I hope I will find good opportunities to wear it, but overall I had more times when I found out it was the wrong scent to wear for the occasion (i.e.: dinner) or that I applied too much. The sillage on this one deserves a cautious label on the packaging. Preferably accompanied with illustrations and measuring droppers.

The Naughty yet Nice Perfume of the Year:
Agent Provocateur
Starting with a vintage Femme Fatale air to it, Agent Provocateur seems to be for a lady in the dark. However, if you spray it early enough before leaving the house, it dries down to a satisfactorily subtle musky and woody (vetiver, that is to say) with a hint of tartness – which is quite versatile really.

Best New Perfume House in 2006:

For the most part, this year has been quite disappointing in my opinion in terms of new releases. One refreshing standout was the launch of Anya’s Garden – a line inspired by botanical gardens from around the world. The perfumer, Anya McCoy, is also a landscape architect, and the director of the Artisan Natural Perfumery Guild. It is not a surprise that her scents are dedicated to gardens. I love the concept as well as the perfumes. These are complex, well structured creations that are original and innovative and use unusual notes in an otherwise classic structure. The results are quite stunning, with complexity and imagery that sucks you in and transports you to their own realms. My favourite is Pan, of course, as it uses goat hair tincture, moss, Seville lavender absolute, hay and is deeply amebry as well as aromatically rejuvenating. Fairchild is also quite a standout, with its myriads of intertwining notes of exotic and narcotic flora singing in counterpoint. I can’t say I smelled all the perfumes that my fellow members of the Guild are crafting with much love and attention to detail, but McCoy is a great example and a leader in the field. I think I ought to also give Anya the award for the most promising perfumer for 2007, as I can’t wait to smell what else comes under her hands!
The image above, by the way, is a digital collage by Anya McCoy herself. I love it and wish you all a full and fragrant year, just as the image suggests!

Next post:
My personal accounts of the fragrant events of last year as a Natural Perfumer, and my outlook for the next year, fragrance-wise.

To read more year-end reviews of a few other perfume blogs, I recommend visiting these blogs (it's really interesting to see some repeating themes, and the comletely differnt systems each created for their categories):
Perfume Shrine

Perfume Posse
Perfume Smellin' Things
Victoria's Own
Pink Manhattan
Sweet Diva

2006 in Natural Perfumery

The year 2006 has been a significant year for Natual Perfumery. In this tightly-knit community of professionals from around the world, old bonds have been strengthened by the re-opening of the Artisan Natural Perfumery Guild. New connections were created as the Guild attracts new members, and new members keep joining the Natural Perfumery study group (a free discussion forum hosted on Yahoo). At the same time, more recognition is garnered, for individual perfumers and their work, as well as the movement of Artisanal Natural Perfumery - in mainstream media as well as online - and this is happening world wide.

As the Guild’s Mentoring Program Coordinator, I was fortunate to meet and interact with teachers and working perfumers from around the world, as well as eager enthusiast members who are working hard on developing their olfactory skills and mastering the art of Natural Perfumery.

There were many new releases this year in the Natural Perfumery world – a few of them I will briefly mention here, but you will be better off visiting Natural Perfumery.com or the Guild’s website and visit the official sites of the perfumers to get a true picture of what we offer: innovative approach to perfumery, with the advantage of artisanal quality and the many new and exciting raw materials that were not available in previous centuries. Each perfumer has their personal touch added, their own unique style and at times their own unique raw materials, often from the place in the world they are from.

The following are brief reviews of what was launched this year - even though I haven't tried all of the scents, I know the body of work of most of the perfumers and can attest to their integrity and passion about their art. It's interesting to see the evolution and change in style and approaches, the new concepts that are conceived in the aterilers of my fellow perfumers. Despite the fact that we all create with a similar pallette of naturals (which is far more limited than what you'd find in the labs of a commercial perfumer using synthetics), the styles are completely different, and each of the perfumers seem to have their own unique "fingerprint" - a signature that can be recognized within the structure or style of the perfume (even if we don't necessarily have a signature "accord" a-la-Guerlainade).

Mandy Aftel of Aftelier (the founder of the original Guild and author of the landmark book Essence and Alchemy) has released two new perfumes – Orchid (a solid perfume based on orange blossom) and Tango – a mélange of champaca flowers and the sexy smokiness of roasted seashells (aka Choya Nakh).

Anya McCoy of Anya’s Garden, the reviver of the Guild, and the founder of the Natural Perfumery study group on Yahoo as well as NaturalPerfumery.com has finally released to the world her ready-to-wear perfume line inspired by botanical gardens from around the world. Pan is the first perfume to have ever used a unique cruelty-free animal essence of goat-hair tincture which adds a unique qualitiy to this herbal, ambery, rustic perfume. Her other creation, Fairchild, isn’t any less unusual in its choice of Mitti attar (baked earth from India), pure ambergris and pandanus (a heady , gigantic tropical flower), and tinctures of many different varieties of jasmine flowers as well as other tropical blossoms. The depth and richness of Anya’s creations are a reflection of her work as a landscape designer, and her passion for perfumes that started when she was as young as two year old. And her perfumes have the same playfulness about them ;)

This year I had the fortune to meet in person a special guest to my town – Lisa Fong of Artemisia Perfume and get an early sniff of her new creations. This year she created Voile – a delicate, fragile jasmine scent that is ethereal and impressionistic; Edwardian Rose – with a base of Tonquin Musk (the real thing!); and Anumati, a rich perfume tribute to the Indian Moon Goddess, bearing the unusual marking of Kadam tree blossom, black cumin and cepes.

My own line has flooded the world of aromatics with several new creations. I won’t bore you with the details now, as I am planning a whole post to summarize my own personal perfumery year. But you can read about all of them if you click here.

Isabelle Aurel of Desire in Sunlight created Gragie, an Italian memoir; Champagne, with pink grapefruit, kewda and cognac (sounds champagne like indeed!); Nandi – a Chypre perfume; and Sex in the Surf, with boronia and seaweed. She also added many delicious flavours to her fragrant Chocolat Ganaches!

Joanne Bassett of Le Bijou recently opened her own retail shop in La Jolla, Callifornia. She also launched her new French Collection, tributes to classy and sassy French woman and each perfume represents a different personality – and they all start with a “C”.

Nick Jennings of Sharini Parfums Naturels from France has a beautiful site that is worth visiting – as his creations don’t only look delicious and are beautifully packaged - they are also organic and are prepared in organic alcohol. The four perfumes are:
Floriental, with spicy and citrus top notes, floral heart notes of jasmine, ylang and magnolia, and a base of vanilla, cedar and patchouli;
Potion d’Amour, a love potion with notes of bergamot, mandarin, rose, jasmine, magnolia, lavender, benzoin and vetiver;
Mediterrane, a chypre with notes of verbena, bergamot, geranium, lavender, rose, oakmoss, vetiver and patchouli;
and Rhapsodie, a masculine scent with notes of bergamot, black pepper, cardamom, jasmine, ylang, sandalwood and frankincense.

Alexandra Ballahoutis of Strange Invisible Perfumes released two special edition scents - Anthony and Cleopatra, which must be doing well since it seems to be out of stock; and Agape, an oil-based perfume with jasmine and rose and cocoa. Her new scent, Magazine Street, celebrates the cultural mélange of New Orleans with notes of magnolia, vanilla, patchouli, vetiver and musk and donates 8% of the retail sales to Katrina Releaf.

Liz (Zz) Zorn of Zz’s Petals released her first ready-to-wear collection, and also opened her own boutique at her Peace Angel Farm in Cincinnati, Ohio. And she also released another new line of organic scents called Fussione’ Parfume. I have only tried one of Zz's perfumes, Jazz Trio No. 1, and am curious to try all of her other creations, which like Anya's, are very special in their quality as she uses her very own tinctures of aromatics that cannot be found otherwise (as an essential oil or an absolute). Blueberry tincture, Champaca wood tincture and maple syrup are just a few examples of scents that Zz puts her heart into tincturing and adding to her scents.

I think I am not alone here in feeling that the next year bears many promises for my niche of perfumery. And I am looking forward to it. What we are offering is refreshing, original and unique. Definitely something to look forward to in the New Year. What sets us apart from other perfume houses, including some other niche houses, is that we are completely
independent (unlike some niche houses which "borrow" a nose from the large perfume companies such as IFF, Givaudon etc.), thus having a full creative control over what we do. Our advantage is that we respond very fast to what our clients want and need (i.e.: creating custom perfumes and at times even adjusting formulas and concentrations to suit the customer's particular body chemistry and improve the performance of the scent on their skin). We also put our heart into every aspect of the process, from tincturing our own essences, to every detail in the packaging - both design, and the physical decanting, labeling and last finish of the look of what the final product is. This involves lots of work, sometimes till late at night or early in the morning, as most of us work alone or with very minimal help. The results shows in every part of the product, from the packaging to the very last drop of essence as it touches your skin and interacts with who you are.

2006 Bestsellers

This post will be the first in a series of three to summarize the year 2006. It's going to be sweet and short, because I am very tired, but I may add a bit more and elaborate when I wake up tomorrow. This list, that is to say, is the bestsellers of Ayala Moriel Parfums.

Ayalitta has always been popular, without me needing to push it. I think it's natural charm and cheerful innocence makes it just hard to resist. That is if you a chypre lover of course, and particularly if you love greens. I am very pleased to see that there is still room for chypres in this world, even though this genre of fragrances is threatened to become extinct.

This year was definitley Espionage's breakthrough. After being an underground perfumes worn only by the perfumer (it's my signature perfume), it finally made its way to the hearts of a few others who seem to love it dearly.
Espionage is a leathery perfume, starting out smoky and woody, and drying down to a skin-scent comprised of vanilla and daring vegetale musks.

The perfume inspired by my daughter, Tamya, happen to be as heart-capturing as her expressive blue eyes. I feel like I've done something right here, as it seems to maintain it's fresh take on florals, and it smells superb on men too!

One of my earliest yet most controversial concoctions, the dichotomy of this fragrance seems to work its magical spell to this very moment. The white florals (tuberose, orange blossom and jasmien) are intoxicating, while moss and wild mushrooms add an earthy and sexual depth that is carnal and free and classy, all at once.

The most approachable Middle-Eastern peacemaker - dark-roasted coffee sweetened and spiced with cardamom - seems to bring peace to those who wear it in a parfum form rather than drink it. It's not the caffeine, but rather the aroma of coffee, sweet balsams, honey and spices that brings a sense of well-being and comfort.

I want to thank all of my customers for making my dream come true. Your support of my business makes it not only sustainable, but also keeps alive something that I feel is really special in the world of perfumery.

The next Year 2006 Summaries will feature:
Ayala's Favourite Perfumes of 2006
Year 2006 in Natural Perfumery
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