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Ginger & Amber: The Third Party


zest, originally uploaded by ChrisB in SEA.

It seems to be moving in one month intervals with the development of this fragrance. And here comes the third entry for my amber and ginger fascination. Last time I was wishing for more of a dramatic dichotomy between the fuzzy amber and the zesty ginger. The 2nd mod was very close to what I wanted - turning up a little musky, surprisingly. I liked the dry out but wanted to amplify the zing of ginger.

The third mod tries to do just that, and with the addition of a third party, a new element: orange.
Wild orange, to be precise. It’s lively and zingy and mouthwatering. In addition, the candy-like sweetness of Tangerine Murcott and orange peel.

I have also decided to play up the musky qualities with the addition of ambrette seed CO2. And to increase the sweet drama of the amber with some naughtily animalic honey absolute. I have to say that so far I’m pretty happy with the direction, although it’s not finalized yet.

For the next mod, I would like to add some orange juice essence (which I run out of and need to order) and perhaps something floral as well to make it more perfumey and complex. I was thinking about gingerlily but quickly realized it’s the idea of using gingerlily (because of the name) and not the scent itself that is attracting me here. Gingerlily will be too complex and add a musty-earthy spiciness which is what I’m trying to get away from. I want the juiciness of ginger, not the rootiness of it.

Mental Notes: Just Before Bedtime

Dying freesias in a vase are not exactly fragrant; I'm wearing Covet from Sarah Jessica Parker once again (I worn it yesterday but didn't tell you as I was too busy to blog this weekend!). Gill Evans is playing in the background with his velvety big band and I am barely resisting falling asleep...
I have to say, I was not impressed with Covet when it came out but I find it fuzzily enjoyable in the last two days. It's ambery (the cocoa note?) yet fresh, and I can now sense the lavender and lemon and perhaps am even starting to become convinced that it is a fougere.
Other than that, I can think of nothing either fragrant or exciting to write home about. I'll pass the ball to you folks to comment on Covet or tell me what you have on (or under) your skin.

Happy First of May!


Lily of the Valley, originally uploaded by Ayala Moriel.

I don't know what is it about lily of the valley that makes it smell so happy, but it does. It is a French tradition to offer lily of the valley to your loved ones on First of May (aka Labour Day) to wish them happiness. And if you received a stem with 13 bells, you are considered particularly lucky.

The little flower, convallaria majalis, has a modest appearance, reminiscent of bluebells that lost their colour. The bells point downwards in what could be considered as shyness or modesty (though I’m quite certain the flower have other reasons to behave that way).

It’s important to note that although bearing the same name, the lily of the valley (convallaria majalis) is certainly not the flower mentioned in the bible in Canticles (Song of Songs). The flower mentioned their is either wild hyacinth or some other kind of wild lily, perhaps what is called “Shoshan Tzahor” (literally translated as “white lily” in Hebrew). Lilies, as most bulb flowers, are rather rare in Israel and their beauty and rarity has served as a metaphor in the above mentioned poem. Later on, lily of the valley and other white lilies (namely the Madonna Lily) have become a symbol of purity and of the Virgin Mary in Christianity. But neither of these species can grow in Israel wild and most likely were not known or cultivated when the poem was written.

Bo Jensen’s website tells us that 2,3-Dihydrofarnesol, farnesol, citronellyl acetate, phenylacetonitrile and phenylacetaldehyde oxime are the main molecules discovered in lily of the valley headspace. 3,7-dimethyl-7-hydroxyoctanal or hydroxycitronellal were both discovered in the beginning of the century and I won’t be surprised if one or the other is used in Roudniska’s iconic lily of the valley Diorissimo and Coty’s Muguet de Bois (though they may be have both been modified to accommodate various regulations because both compounds are not particularly stable and can cause allergies, according to the same website).

The fresh flowers are so typically lily of the valley it’s amazing. I haven’t noticed as much variety between individual flowers as I find in other species (i.e.: roses). Besides the obvious “lily of the valley” smell there are also some lemony and green notes surrounding the flowers. They last in a vase for 2-3 days while retaining an impressive amount of the scent, but will never overpower the room like hyacinth or true lilies do.
If you live in the warmer parts of the world and can’t get the fragrant flowers from your florist, I suggest you find yourself a bottle of Diorissimo and scent your May Day with it. I just so happen to be wearing it as we speak.

News from the Nose: Mother's Day Specials and More!

Dear Fragrant Friends,

In this newsletter:

Gigi: Grand Gardenia sans the Drama




Gigi is the newest adition to the Ayala Moriel's Language of Flowers
soliflore collection. It is a gardenia soliflore that is lighthearted and at
the same time voluptuous. The rare smoothness of Mysore sandalwood lays the
foundation for a gardenia illusion - where sambac, jonquille, tuberose,
kewda and cardamom dance in unity to create the warm, creamy-spicy
sensuality of white petals.

Top notes: Kewda, Cardamom, Rosewod, Yellow Mandarin
Heart notes: Jasmine Sambac, Jonquille, Tuberose
Base notes: Mysore Sandalwood, Vanilla, Myrrh

To read more about the story behind Gigi visit SmellyBlog

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Etsy Shop: Exciting New Venue




Visit Ayala Moriel's Etsy shop, where you can find
stuff that can be found nowhere else: poison rings and vintage pillboxes
filled with cream perfumes, discounted perfumes, and of course discontinued
perfumes from our collection that are no longer available on our website.

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Perfume Oils - New Sizes and new Fragrances!!!


Due to the popular demand for alcohol-free and oil based perfumes, we are
now offering our entire line (except for 3 scents) in a jojoba oil base.
Resembling the skin's natural sebum, jojoba is an excellent solution if you
have a dry skin: it will help prolong the scent's life on the skin and
linger longer. This is also a more concentrated form of perfume, with 30%
parfum essence, making it rich, soft and luxurious.
Now available in two sizes - a frosted 10ml roll-on bottle, and a cute 5ml purse roll-on that can be sneaked into one's pocket when
traveling far or near, for only $65.

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Mother's Day Specials

Pamper your Mom on Mother's Day with an all-natural fragrant gift. Nothing
can beat a custom scent, especially designed for her. We particulary
encourage mothers and daugthers to come together to the studio for a shared
Olfactory Journey - an unforgettable experience of essences from around the
world, where the exotic meets the familiar in the most magical way. At the
end of a journey, your memories and passions will be bottled in an elegant
parfum flacon and a pendant.

In addition, e have a few specials* just for the occasion:

- Perfumed Teas are on special for $20 (instead of $30). These
organic and wild crafted teas are TO DIE FOR!

- Purse size perfume oils, for only $65

- Perfumed Pendants are on sale now for $125 (instead of $150)

- Gift Certificates for $100 or for any amount you'd like can be
emailed or printed as well. Email us with the amount and message you'd like
on the gift certificate and we'll send you a PayPal payment request.

- And of course, if you are looking for something different check out our Etsy shop for rare
collectibles such as poison rings and vintage pillboxes filled with our
delicious crème parfums.

* Offers expire May 30th.

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Foundation of Natural Perfumery Correspondance Course





Four spaces are still available for correspondance students in the Foundation
of Natural Perfumer course which begins this weekend.

While the first session of our in-studio course is kicking off this Sunday,
there is still room to join us if you live out of town (or out of the
country, for that matter!), as a correspondance student. You will be able to
get out just out of the course by becoming a correspondance student.

The course is tailored for those who are willing to deepen their udnerstanding of perfume and fragrance and get olfactorily creative - either professionally or for personal growth and pure pleasure.

The correspondance course is comprised of 5 one-on-one session conducted via phone, and are tailored for your individual level, needs and goals in yourperfumery journey. Assignments are sent by mail for evaluation on a monthly basis and will receive thourough feedback with suggestions for improvements and customized excercises to help you develop the skills needed for creating natural perfumes as well as define and refine your own style.

The course can be purchased here.

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Portobello West this Sunday

Don't miss Portobello West this Sunday, with just over 100 of the most talented, creative and innovative local artists and designers working independently here in Vancouver. Bring your friends and family to help you pick gifts for Mother's Day or that unique accessory you were missing from your wardrobe. The market takes place every last Sunday of the month at the Rocky Mountaineer Station, open 12-6pm. Parking is free, admission is cheap ($2 for adults, kids are free). For more info about how to get there click here.

And last but not least, don't forget to pass this email along to everyoneyou know who is interested in perfume, natural products and independent & sustainable businesses. Thank you! :)

Hope to see you soon!

Warm regards,

Ayala
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