Courage by One Seed Company opens with a very rounded, citrusy-floral-amber presence with the soprano melismas of magnolia embelishments and raspy myrrh undertones. Otherwise, this perfume is a not-all-that-courageous all-natural ambery jasmine, paired with all its long-time allies: sweet orange, ylang ylang and vanilla. While I can't say I've never smelled anything like it before, it is well made and balanced, and deserved mention even though it hasn't rocked my world.

The rather fruity opening of orange and peach-like magnolia reveals a raspy-voiced jasmine alongside spicy whispers of ylang ylang (which further amplifies the clove-like eugenol, which is present in jasmine as well). The sweetness of all is further amplified with an almost-syrupy base of benzoin and vanilla, balanced only with the slightest hint of earthy, bitter myrrh.

Top notes: Magnolia, Rosewood, Sweet Orange
Heart notes: Jasmine, Ylang Ylang
Base notes: Benzoin, Myrrh, Vanilla

Oyédo is a play on the ancient name for Japan’s buzzing and modern Tokyo (formerly Yedo or Edo); but it smells like nothing old or arcane at all. Over-the-top citrus note of yuzu is at the centre of this modern citrus composition, which creates a very surprising reaction for anyone who's never experienced the fruit before.

Yuzu (Citrus junos) is a Japanese citron with an intense grapefruit type of smell, a surprising strength and unmistakable personality. It is the epitome of citrus, yet is like no other citrus. It has an intense sweetness as well, and adds an impressive entrance to any perfume it accompanies, calling for attention and adding a rare component: a sense of humour in perfumery. In this perfume, the sulfuric characteristics yuzu and it’s intense acidity is exemplified rather than softened. As a result, Oyédo is abstract, almost disturbing uber-citrus.

Oyédo opens with a burst of overt yuzu, accompanied by no less prominent than the floral and almost sickeningly sweet clementine and mandarin of the yellow variety, and a balancing act of harsh peppermint; the dry, peppery kind that is almost too spicy to handle, adding a burning sensation to the tingling of the skin. Another surprising aromatic component, with a hint of spiciness and an almost fruity finish is thyme, which gives the scent an odd Mediterranean reference.

At the heart of Oyédo, yuzu calms down only slightly, and melds with sweet orange mellows the impressive opening only ever so slightly. Peppermint continues to tingle, and yuzu reveals, true to form, its more humble citrusy personality - juicy pulp and aromatic pith underneath the bumpy zest.

The shelf life of this uber-citrus is a bit longer than you’d expect from most eaux de cologne. Oyédo remains citrusy, aromatic and zesty for quite some time. Then it reveals subtle, smooth and suave woods: sandalwood, Japanese cypress (hinoki), creating a very clean finish - later turning into musky raspberry drydown. 

Top notes: Grapefruit, Peppermint, Clementine
Heart notes: Yuzu, Yellow Mandarin, Sweet Orange, Thyme
Base notes: Sandalwood, Hinoki, Musk, Raspberry

Want to study natural perfumery this year? This week is your last opportunity to sign up to Ayala Moriel Parfums' week-long course that is dedicated to the Oriental fragrance family (Sep 30-Oct 4). Immerse yourself in ancient resins, exotic spices, precious flowers, rare woods and amber - and learn hands on as well as from historic recipes how to construct these iconic perfumes that accompanied the human spirit for thousands of years.
Registration closes Aug 30 (next Friday). We need at least 4 students fully completing their registration in order to run the course. Hope to see you this fall at my course! 

The dates are scheduled for the tail end of September and beginning of October 2013: September 30th - October 4th.

For those among you receiving this information about my perfumes school for the first time, here is a little more background info about how it works: what used to be a full-time 2 year intensive program has been modified into a series of 8 full-time week-long courses offered at my home studio at the heart of beautiful downtown Vancouver, British Columbia.

Ayala Moriel Perfumery School - Overview of Course Structure
The week-long intensive format are the most flexible way to give students from far and near the opportunity to get solid theoretical background on the art of perfumery in general and natural perfumery in particular, as well as plenty of lab-time to exercise both the art, science and technique of composing perfumes in the lab. Remote students benefit from the opportunity to connect face to face with their teacher as well as other students, and truly dedicate some time that is set aside for learning the art of natural perfumery undisturbed and in a fun, friendly, creative and encouraging learning environment here at my studio. The curriculum is divided equally between theory and practice (aka hands-on lab exercises, sniffing techniques, olfaction and learning to dissect and match existing perfumes).

Although there are no assignments given in between sessions, students will be given suggestions for exercises and projects they can work on to keep their noses busy and practice their olfactory skills until the next time they can make it here to study in person. And 

Each week will be dedicated to a particular fragrance family (so there are 8 weeks in total to choose from - Eau de Cologne, Oriental, Fougere, Chypre, Citrus, Floral, Leather and Soliflore).
There will be a special workshop in each intensive week (i.e.: incense making, truffle making, tincturing, solid perfume making, candle making, etc.).

You will get a certificate of completion for each week you've done, and will get your diploma for the program once you have completed all 8 weeks and covered all the fragrance families.
It is up to you how fast - or slow - you'd like to proceed in the course, based on how often you can attend the intensive weeks. Depending on interest, we may offer up to 4 intensive weeks per year, so you could complete the program anytime between 2-4 years.

The cost is $1,800 for each week, and include materials used during the classes, as well as the course handbook - which is your comprehensive guide for the entire program and contains a wealth of information, exercises, tips and resources such as reading list and suppliers' contacts.
* Students who wish to continue studying and creating perfumes on their own will be given suggestions for where to get high quality essential oils and absolutes so that you can build your own organ. Some raw materials can also be purchased directly from me.

Oriental Week Information (Fall 2013):
The Autumn session covers studying the raw materials, perfume structure, how to blend a formula, how to write a formula, building accords and creating simple solid perfumes, and basic Oriental formulation in an alcohol base.
Featured workshops: Incense Making Workshop (Indian-style incense cones or Ancient Egyptian Kyphi)
The fee includes book, materials and supplies as well as tea and refreshments.
Dates: September 30 - October 4, 2013
Sessions take place from 9:30am to 4pm, with a lunch break from noon to 1pm.
The morning session (9:30am-12pm) is theory; and the afternoon (1:00pm-4:00pm) is dedicated to hands-on and practical exercises such as field trips, analytical study of perfumes and natural plant matter, and hands-on composition and technical exercises in the lab.

Payment schedule:
30% deposit ($540) due by July 30th to reserve your spot, via personal cheque or credit card payment (over the phone - please no PayPal and please don't "order" the course online without emailing or talking to me first!).
The remainder of the tuition ($1,260) should be paid in full no later than August 30th (30 days before class starts).
OR:
If you pay in full by July 17th, you will receive a 20% off the full tuition (total of $1,440, which will save you $360!).

For those of you traveling from out of town: there are plenty of accommodation in the lovely neighbourhood where classes take place, pretty much for every budget. Email me privately if you need help or recommendations!

In order to run this wonderfully exciting course, we need at least 4 students to confirm and complete their registration (i.e.: coverletter + CV, Interview, and full payment by August 30th).
Please let me know ASAP if you are participating in this week. If there aren't enough students (at least 4), the course will be cancelled.

If you wish to register, please email or call. You can pay via personal cheque, money order or online using your PayPal account or credit card.
If you have any other questions, please let me know.

Hope you have a wonderful rest of the summer - and an exciting return to school soon!