Some of you may have been familiar with Scent Systems from the days it was a posh niche perfumes retailer in London that included custom scents as part of their services. A few years back, the company underwent a shift and became a perfume house that uses only natural building blocks in their perfumes, and the bespoke fragrances are also 100% natural. Scent Systems was founded by Hiram Green, a Canadian that followed his dreams and ended up on the other side of the pond. He now works with George Dodd, a perfumer and a renown fragrance consultant and researcher in the field of fragrance and psychology. His book, His book “Fragrance: The Psychology and Biology of Perfume” (co-edited with S. Van Toller) includes some of his researches as well as other researchers (including the infamous inventors of the Colour Rosette Test), which were key to understanding the impact of fragrance on human beings. He now operates from a small studio in the Highlands of Scotland, and his connection to this landscape is reflected in the choice of some of the aromatics used in the floral collection he designed for Scent Systems, such as heather absolute and Scottish bog myrtle.

Last week, Scent System’s coffret of the 5 floral perfumes arrived in the mail. While the five are quite different from one another, the line has a style, and it’s as if there is a thread that connects them all. Each is named after a flower, and that note is distinct and present; yet they are far more complex and rich to be categorized as soliflores. Aside from the natural perfumery staples, the line uses some rare natural essences that even I am not familiar with (i.e.: heliotrope, basmati flower and heather absolutes), and also some natural isolates (i.e.: aldehydes that occur in plants rather than synthesized from an unrelated source). The perfumes are all dense, rich, and have a slightly oily opening (which I’m guessing is the aldehydes) that reminds me of the scent of blood, yet not in a disturbing way. The line is intriguing and original, yet has a solid foundation in classic perfumery principles and the perfumes have an interesting evolution and are long lasting.

I intend to give a full review of the scents soon, but would like to use this post to give them all a first-impression introduction:

Jasmine - the freshest of them all, and slightly grassy jasmine, paired with herbs (basil and verbena) overtop vetiver base.

Rose - opens overly fruity and ripe with spicy, turmeric-like after-note and rose isolates dominant and sharp, but softens into more complex rose territory after a while. The dryout reveals a patchouli and curry-like base.

Wild Violet - I found this to be more spicy than I expected, rather than a fragile, powdery floral. An opoponax note comes forth right away, than replaced by roses; and only later on the iris notes glide in and create a more violet-y impression.

Tuberose - I thought I would love this one the most, as it smells most delicious from the vial, but it ended up very different than the opening. Starts off as a creamy, heady and slightly juicy, and reminds me of Miller Harris’ Noix de Tubereuse, which I like, but once the tuberose subsides it’s not as intriguing.

Oeillet is by far my favourite of them all, and is a dusky, dark seductive green, herbaceous and spicy oriental. Sage is the key note though, in my opinion, and having grown up surrounded by sage this might explain why I’m partial to it.

Full reviews will be posted over the next couple of weeks after I wear each a few more times. If you have already experienced Scent Systems' floral collection please do comment :)

As if my tea obsession is not already enough, I have been recently obsessed with tea roses. There is much to be said about the sheer bliss that rests upon me when I burry my face in a gigantic hybrid tea rose. The cool petals in the summer, sometimes covered in dew, other times with dust, and always makes a rose garden shine with beauty. I always felt that tea roses are more rosy than any other kind. Rosa damascena is more full-bodied and wine like, Rosa centifolia (cabbage rose) a little lighter, and Rosa odorata (the Latin name for tea roses) is definitely the most peachy-perfect of them all. To my nose, anyway.

As it turns out, what makes tea roses smell the way they do is their orange colour, due to presence of beta carotene, and also a type of ionone, which is what make it smell as fresh as a cup of green tea.

I tried to recreate the experience by creating a tea rose soliflore, using two China roses - Rosa odorata and Rosa rugoza essential oils, highlighted by osmanthus and black current buds for extra fruitiness, and grounded with cassie absolute and green tea CO2 and just a touch of vanilla. The result was very much to my liking: cheerful and light rose with none of the muddiness that can so easily darken an all-natural rose fragrance, with ionone and tea depths that make it interesting and long lasting and quite diffusive.

Tea Rose is now offered as a limited edition via my Etsy shop.

This perfume was created after exploring Indian roses and exotic attars while watching The Purple Rose of Cairo. The name was selected as a tongue-in-your cheek gesture to fluffy perfume ad-copies and fragrance literature laden with purple patches. Consider this to be the part of the film where the screenwriter converses with its characters while they step out of the silver screen attempting to get a life.

Purple (p)Rose is rosy and exotic. Many essences extracted from plants grown on Indian soil seem to have a certain sweetness, depth and spicy richness. I sometimes wonder if there is curry in the Indian soil that affects the aroma of these plants and make them stand apart from those grown in other countries. The essences I chose are mostly ones that I associate with the colours purple and blue. There is no particular logic behind that notion, it's completely intuitive. There is no way for me to explain why I think champaca smells purple or Buddha wood smells blue. I can only hope you will understand me if you smell them.

The opening notes are rosy with hints of spice and fruit, evolving into a plush floral heart with traditional Indian rose attars of rose and oud, ruh gulab (a traditional Indian distillation of rose), red champaca, blue lotus and blue waterlily to compliment the purple theme. And finally, deep woody notes of sandal, oud and Buddha wood, precious and sublime encompass all and invite meditation.

Top notes: Chinese Five Spice, Magnolia Lily, Cassis

Heart notes: Indian Summer Rose Attar, Ruh Gulab, Red Champaca, Blue Lotus, Blue Water Lily

Base notes: Agarwood, Amber Oudh Attar, Bakul Attar, Buddha wood, Sandalwood

Now available via Etsy under the One-of-a-Kind Perfumes section.