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SmellyBlog

Perfume Decants and Copyright Infringement


Pirate button, originally uploaded by Illuminated.

Is decanting perfumes the same as illegal downloading of music and movies? Are the creators and manufacturers of the perfumes being violated when their fragrances are sold in a different packaging by someone who bought their perfume (for a retail price)?

For several years, the culture of fragrance swapping has evolved tremendously, including the sprouting of micro businesses selling perfume decants on the various fragrance forums and on eBay.

While the music and film industries are coping quite well with the abundance of copyright infringement online (ripping songs and downloading movies) by offering legitimate alternatives to the tech-savvy consumer, the perfume industry seems to drag behind in response to the popularization of perfume. Perfume companies seems to be having hard time accepting the fact that perfume, nowadays, is becoming more of a commodity than a luxury, and that gradually, many people are becoming more interested in the product (AKA the juice) rather than its glamorous packaging.

In the past few years, perfume addicts found creative solutions for subsidizing their expensive hobby by selling off some of the juice of the (usually over-sized) bottles. The buyers for these modestly re-packaged perfumes are usually other curious perfumistas who don’t have physical access to the particular perfume (or brand) where they live, or simply haven’t quite made up their minds if they need 100ml of a particular odour to be added to their already-impressive collection.

A few months ago, I read that a popular decant seller was booted from eBay for this reason, after a complaint (or was it a law suit? I can’t quite remember) from a New York based perfume house. Hundreds if not thousands of perfumistas were puzzled and ticked off by this move. And I don’t blame them. But coming from the side of niche perfume business myself, I can’t claim not to understand the motive behind the abovementioned perfume house. Just imagine how many impulse-buy they lost because of that!

On the other hand, let’s try to imagine how many unhappy customers the decant trade saved these very same perfume companies; ones that would go around the internet and say “such and such brand is overrated” and so on and so forth. Obviously, if one gets a decant of something they end up loving, they will upgrade to a full bottle, and in my opinion are more likely to re-purchase in the future more than just once. But this philosophy of common sense and good karma is perhaps not something that spread neither widely nor evenly amongst all perfume houses.


_MG_5891, originally uploaded by Jonathan Tramontana.

In my opinion, choosing the legal route to respond to this phenomenon is not only ineffective (as if that stopped you from downloading songs onto your MP3 player, right!); it also shows lack of understanding of the current trends in the fragrance industry, perhaps even a lack of confidence in the juice itself. If the juice is ripped of its elaborate packaging, it should be just as stunning and impressive, and definitely worth the money. It is also a symptom of lack of creativity and flexibility of the business structure of the brand, which is usually associated with larger sized corporations. Amongst other solutions, the abovementioned perfume house could have opened their own eBay store – the official brand name so and so store, and offer a more “legitimized” alternative in the same internet shopping neighbourhood.

To conclude, I’ll bring you a short little story of a similar situation, but from the film industry. Mark Achbar, the director of The Corporation, worked on the film for about 10 years. After years of research, filming, fundraising and marketing, the film was a huge success world wide. Everybody waited for the DVD to come out, and when it did - it started to become part of the curriculum in many universities. Poor students on low budgets started looking for free downloads online, and guess what? - They found them, of course. The film was quickly becoming one of the most popularly downloaded documentaries on BitTorrent. Instead of suing BitTorrent, Mr. Achbar is now offering his own downloadable version, directly from his computer, and encourages the downloaders to donate as much as they can afford and support the filmmakers.

Related links:
Badger & Blade
Guide to Buying Perfume on eBay (an outdated advice page!)
Perfume Posse
Perfume of Life (1)
Perfume of Life (2)
Basenotes

Citrus Splash No More?


orange splash, originally uploaded by Photonut (Mr. Dave).


Citrus perfume ingredients are set to disappear, according to Cropwatch’s recent report.

The EU regulatory boards are hitting again with draconian regulations to an essential natural component of the fragrance industry. This time it is citrus oils, present in almost all perfumes today. In another mind-blowing act, without public consultation, the EU cosmetic regulatory board have decided to pull the rug under all citrus oils, because the alleged danger of their furanocoumarins (FCF) contents. On April 4th 2007, Sabine Lecrenier, EU’s Head of Unit for the Cosmetics Sector reported to Cropwatch that by the end of this month (April 2007), both bergapten (5-MOP) and xanthotoxin (8-MOP) (either individually or additively) will be restricted to 1ppm in all finished products, even when naturally present (meaning: in natural essential oils such as citrus and angelica).

It has been known for along time that furanocoumarins (that are found largely in citrus oils) present a risk of phototxicity (burning and pigmentation of the skin when the area covered with the oil is exposed to the sun). This risk is fairly low when the low levels of citrus oils in the composition are maintained, and is even further lowered when citrus oils where the furanocoumarins have been removed is used (i.e.: bergapten-free bergamot essential oil). Furanocoumarins are also present in high levels in other oils than citrus, for instance: angelica. Furthermore, when talking about fragrance, the risk is particularly low when the fragrance is applied to specific areas that are not typically exposed to the sun, such as the wrists and behind the ears.

The reasons behind this decision could not be just safety. There must be a hidden political agenda behind this move, which is remained to be revealed – and is most likely going to benefit the mega corporations of synthetic aromachemicals.

It’s far away, in Europe, you say? Why should we care?
If you think that way, I suggest you glipse quickly at the “made in” lable on your perfume bottle. It will mostly likely be a country in Europe, France in most cases. If you think this won’t affect you because you live somewhere else, you are terribly wrong! Besides, the mega corporations that produce most of the perfumes for all the mainstream labels are probably not going to bother and formulate a different fragrance according to different regulations in each country. They are probably going to go on the safe side and just go ahead and blindly comply with the EU regulations.

And what’s more disturbing, no one has asked the consumers what they want. No one asked the perfumers if they will be able to handle (or want to) such restrictions on their creativity. Citrus notes are such an viable part of the perfume world that it’s going to be feel very lonely and depressing to see them removed from my organ… Thankfully, I am my own boss.

And last but not least worrying of all - the entire industry of citrus growers, distillers, wholesalers, traders is going to suffer so badly – just imagine the loss of jobs, world wide, just because of the greed of the aromachemical companies. Perhaps only the dryout of petroleum will stop their greed from growing on the expense of others. We’ll just have to wait and see.

A few words about the importance of citrus oils:
Citrus essential oils have been an essential component of the modern fragrance industry for centuries. The first alcohol-based perfumes were made of citrus peels tinctured in alcohol along with herbs and spices. These early perfumes were called “Aqua Mirabillis” (Miracle Waters), and were used both internally as a medicine and externally as a refreshing perfume. You may be familiar with famous names of aux such as Carmelite Water, Florida Water, Eau de Cologne, Hungary Waters, and others. Such perfumes will no longer be manufactured if indeed this new regulation is to be realized. So stock up on your 4711 and Eau Imeriale!

This is without mentioning many other perfumes that would have been completely different without the use of pure citrus oil – Shalimar would be come a sickeningly artificial vanilla & lemon pudding, the Chypre family, already suffering from a large reduction of the oakmoss content, would now become even further compromised (can you imagine!). When I look at all the formulas of my perfumes, there are only very few that have no citrus in them - Film Noir and Epice Sauvage, and that’s about it. Citrus notes add an aldehydic and a cheerful fruitiness to many compositions, from all the fragrance families – Oriental, Chypre, Floral, Woody – and of course, the entire fragrance family that is named after them for a very obvious reason – Citrus.


To finish off this depressing post, let’s try to find some hope. There is something you can do. You, as a consumer, have a lot more power than you may like to think. You can protest, you can write letter to the EU regulatory boards, and you can join Cropwatch’s Campaign for Real Perfume by emailing Cropwatch and expressing your interest in joining the campaign and be able to decide for yourself what you use – real perfumes, containing the richness and beauty of real botanical essences, or completely artificial fragrances, made only of test-tube molecules.



Must Read: Tony Burfield's Article on Basenotes

Don't miss Tony Burfield (Cropwatch's co-founder) article on Basenotes:
Tony Burfield speaks of the current events in the perfume industry regulation and how they affect consumers and perfumers. This article is extremely relevant and touches upon very important issues in the perfume industry today, as well as its future.
The article is supplemented by explanations to the various acronyms discussed in the article, provided by Anya McCoy (Artisan Natural Perfumers' Guild director). For more information about the issue, click on the FAQ on this page (scroll down to the bottom, and it will download as a PDF; if you have problems reading a PDF, feel free to contact me).

Sign The Petition! Save Perfume!

The following is a message from Tony Burfield of Cropwatch. I urge you to sign this petition, and contribute to a better chances that small perfume houses - namely those who use strictly natural essences - as well as the entire natural aromatics industry (farmers and distillers across the world) will remain sustainable.

At this cross-roads in the history of perfume-related legislation, it is of utmost importance that the consumers and the professionals in the field will be heard. It is your right to be able to choose which products you want to use. We are now facing the danger of eliminating materials (i.e. essential oils) that were used traditionally for many generations and caused no harm when used properly. These essences are beneficial to our health as well as our emotional well-being. Just imagine your life without your favourite perfume... Mitsouko, Miss Dior, No. 19 with no oakmoss (or very little)... Citrus colognes with no citrus... This is what IFRA is leading us to.

Here is the message from Tony himself, so you can get an idea of the urgency of the matter and why you MUST sign on the petition if you want to ensure the pleasure of natural aromatics in our lives for years to come, without needing miles of paperwork for every single drop.

"Hi all,

At last (!) we have a
petition up - protesting against the 40th IFRA amendment and its implications for all natural aromatics/essential oil users at

This isn't really just about Cropwatch, its about taking a stand against one of the prime movers (IFRA) in a regulatory process, which (intentionally or otherwise), is slowly phasing out the use of natural materials in favour of synthetics in cosmetics/fragrances. We can see a similar process going on - the phasing out of natural aromatic materials - in many other areas - biocides, over-the-counter medicines, household products etc. etc.

Please, please, please .... help us by signing this petition.

A good showing here in particular can help us enormously by proving that David (us) can triumph over Goliath (the Corporates). A bad showing means that we can be dismissed by the authorities as insignificant.

Please help us by spreading the word on this petition to as many groups and individuals as possible.

Cheers,

Tony"

Did I mention the petition yet?
If you haven't signed yet, do it now!
Stand up to your Fragrant Rights for quality perfumes and the freedom of choice!

Attar de Resistance

















For some reason, all my romantic Valentine’s Day posts and perfume reviews are getting pushed aside because of more “political” agendas related to perfume.

To take off thr edge of the heavy topic ahead of us, let’s start with a little rhetorical question. What do the two images above have in common?

Is it control? Is it curiosity? Perfume?
Perhaps all of the above...

This new perfume was launched in Lebanon as an homage to the success of Hisballah’s assault on Israel in Summer 2006.
I am all for using perfumes for self-expression, and think this is a very interesting reaction to what happened last summer. A very interesting cultural phenomenon. In a way, one cannot help it but be very curious about how it smells.

The natural reaction for an Israeli and a Westerner would be that of shock and disgust. However, I have to report that I am feeling mostly curious about it than anything else. The selection of notes is of utmost interest, as it is said to contain Tea Rose (apparently, Nasrallah’s favourite) and in fact has connection to Muslim culture As a side note, Muslim culture contributed to perfumery a lot more than the French would like to admit. Perfumery truly originated in Alchemy. The word “Alchemy” is from the Arabic word “Al-Chimia”, and the Arabs were some of the most esteemed alchemists. Roses have been always considered a masculine scent in the Arab world, and were used exclusively by Arab rulers. They used to retain the freshness of roses by burying them in clay jars under the earth to keep them cool, and when the roses were not in season anymore, dig them out and sprinkle water on them to bring the scent back to life. It is said that the prophet Mohammed had a body odor of roses and musk. Such was his holiness and purity of heart that he did not stink lime most of us do.

One cannot help it but notice the resemblance of Attar de Resistance to the widely popular “Celebrity Perfumes” of the US. While in the US actors and singers release perfumes to represent their charming personalities and make big bucks, in Lebanon, fans of the political-religious movement make a perfume as a gesture of admiration for the leader and sell it for just $1. The perfume is packaged in a sample vial in a little propaganda folder.

I am not going to turn this into a political discussion (so please refrain from political comments unless you want to express opinions or suggestions about achieving PEACE in he region). I grew up in the region that got thousands of Hisballah rockets this summer (2006), and a kid from my brothers’ school – the high-school I myself have graduated from - was kidnapped as well during the violet events of summer 2006. Yet, this is not going to stop me from wanting peace and working towards peace in whatever way I can. In fact, I spent the better part of last year working practically for free on a publicity campaign for a peace summer camp, that had 10 Israeli, 10 Palestinian and 10 Canadian youth staying for 3 weeks in a film school in Galiano Island and making films about their experience of the conflict and meeting each other I will do everything I can to promote peace. Making a perfume to fundraise for peace education programs in Israel and Palestine is not a bad idea...
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