Must Read: Tony Burfield's Article on Basenotes

Don't miss Tony Burfield (Cropwatch's co-founder) article on Basenotes:
Tony Burfield speaks of the current events in the perfume industry regulation and how they affect consumers and perfumers. This article is extremely relevant and touches upon very important issues in the perfume industry today, as well as its future.
The article is supplemented by explanations to the various acronyms discussed in the article, provided by Anya McCoy (Artisan Natural Perfumers' Guild director). For more information about the issue, click on the FAQ on this page (scroll down to the bottom, and it will download as a PDF; if you have problems reading a PDF, feel free to contact me).

Artisan Natural Perfumers' Guild Press Release re IFRA's 40th Amendment

-Boycott Called to Halt Adoption of International Fragrance Association’s (IFRA) 40th Amendment by UK-based Watchdog Organization Cropwatch Gains Momentum with Online Poll and Petition. Poll by Perfumer and Flavorist newsletter P&Fnow shows a landslide for Cropwatch with 85.1% of the vote.

-USA- based Artisan Natural Perfumers Guild joins in effort to Demand Opening the Process Up for Public Input and Review of the Process before thousands of small perfumery and toiletry businesses are adversely affected by restrictive, unfair compliance standards.

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE: MIAMI SHORES, Fla./February 8, 2007. On February 7, 2007, fragrance and flavor trade magazine Perfumer & Flavorist released the results of an online poll showing 85.1% of readers in favor of boycotting proposed fragrance industry guidelines that will heavily limit the use of natural essential oils in perfumes and cosmetics.

Compliance with these guidelines (the IFRA 40th Amendment) requires that listed essential oils and naturally occurring constituents be kept to certain minimal levels in consumer products. At the core of the Amendment are safety issues in regard to skin reactions. The ANPG and Cropwatch fully support sensible safety guidelines to protect the consumer, but do not believe IFRA has proved that many of the essential oils affected present the supposed risk, nor have they allowed input from the impacted concerns, especially small businesses.

Although IFRA guidelines are only mandatory for their members, they have become the industry norm globally. Consequently, the livelihood of many small businesses is being threatened by an organization that does not represent them. Adhering to the complex measures not only requires sophisticated computer software, which most small natural products businesses do not possess, it also unfairly targets natural ingredients. Without a level playing field, these small businesses cannot be expected to compete. Approximately 200 essential oils will be controlled by IFRA if their 40th amendment is ratified.

Previous IFRA guidelines have been responsible for the reformulation of many classic perfumes, essentially destroying works of art that existed in liquid form. It is asserted that perhaps a warning label would have sufficed in allowing the original perfume, scent intact, to remain on shelves. Just as demand for natural toiletries and fragrances is growing worldwide, the 40th Amendment could do damage from the level of growers, distillers, up to suppliers and manufacturers. The end result may be the destruction of businesses and the absence of genuine naturally scented shampoos, creams, lotions, perfumes and soaps from store shelves.

To illustrate how the existing and proposed regulations from IFRA do not make sense, ANPG President Anya McCoy recently blogged on Peanuts vs. Perfume. Peanuts can kill susceptible people, yet their sales are unrestricted: Some perfumes may cause a rash, yet the International Fragrance Association’s (IFRA) 40th Amendment wants to severely limit the public’s access to them. Consumers are allowed to make informed decisions about peanut products, yet with IFRA and EU (see the related FAQ) guidelines and regulations in place, consumers will no longer have the freedom to make informed decisions about which scented products they wish to use. Access to aromatherapy essential oils may also be limited.
The ANPG believes the amendment may be unreasonable because the measures are based on questionable scientific premises, and they are decided behind closed doors without any possibility of public discussion or debate. Since the call for a boycott was proposed two weeks ago by little-guy Cropwatch, 549 people have signed an online petition, backing the challenge to the Goliath IFRA. http://www.ipetitions.com/petition/ifra40/signatures.html

Therefore, the ANPG joins Cropwatch in asking for a moratorium on the IFRA 40th amendment, until these issues have been fully addressed. We ask that a review of the scientific methodologies that were used in the original determinations of skin sensitization be examined, that the compliance requirements be reviewed, and that warning labels on products be considered in place of prohibition or restriction. Guild Founder, noted natural perfumer and author Mandy Aftel, and Guild President, perfumer Anya McCoy will be working with others in the industry to challenge the IFRA stance and open the amendment adoption process to the public.

For more information, you may download a detailed FAQ from: http://artisannaturalperfumers.org/cropwatch_ifra.htm

Anya McCoy, President
Artisan Natural Perfumers Guild
P.O. Box 245
Miami Shores, FL 33153
PHONE. 305-756-0065
Website: http://artisannaturalperfumers.org

email: http://artisannaturalperfumers.org/contact.htm

Sign The Petition! Save Perfume!

The following is a message from Tony Burfield of Cropwatch. I urge you to sign this petition, and contribute to a better chances that small perfume houses - namely those who use strictly natural essences - as well as the entire natural aromatics industry (farmers and distillers across the world) will remain sustainable.

At this cross-roads in the history of perfume-related legislation, it is of utmost importance that the consumers and the professionals in the field will be heard. It is your right to be able to choose which products you want to use. We are now facing the danger of eliminating materials (i.e. essential oils) that were used traditionally for many generations and caused no harm when used properly. These essences are beneficial to our health as well as our emotional well-being. Just imagine your life without your favourite perfume... Mitsouko, Miss Dior, No. 19 with no oakmoss (or very little)... Citrus colognes with no citrus... This is what IFRA is leading us to.

Here is the message from Tony himself, so you can get an idea of the urgency of the matter and why you MUST sign on the petition if you want to ensure the pleasure of natural aromatics in our lives for years to come, without needing miles of paperwork for every single drop.

"Hi all,

At last (!) we have a
petition up - protesting against the 40th IFRA amendment and its implications for all natural aromatics/essential oil users at

This isn't really just about Cropwatch, its about taking a stand against one of the prime movers (IFRA) in a regulatory process, which (intentionally or otherwise), is slowly phasing out the use of natural materials in favour of synthetics in cosmetics/fragrances. We can see a similar process going on - the phasing out of natural aromatic materials - in many other areas - biocides, over-the-counter medicines, household products etc. etc.

Please, please, please .... help us by signing this petition.

A good showing here in particular can help us enormously by proving that David (us) can triumph over Goliath (the Corporates). A bad showing means that we can be dismissed by the authorities as insignificant.

Please help us by spreading the word on this petition to as many groups and individuals as possible.



Did I mention the petition yet?
If you haven't signed yet, do it now!
Stand up to your Fragrant Rights for quality perfumes and the freedom of choice!

Cropwatch Launches a Campaign to Boycott IFRA's 40th Amendment

As a response to IFRA's 40th Ammendment, Tony Burfield of Cropwatch is now leading a boycott and a petition. Click here to read a letter of IFRA as a response to Tony Burfield's letter. The first time in history that IFRA needs to defend itself.

I urge you to cast your vote for Cropwatch vs. IFRA in the poll run by Perfumer & Flavorist Magazine (it appears on the bottom left corner of the homepage). The results will be published in the February 7th issue of the magazine. Wouldn't it be fantastic if consumers will once and for all have an impact about these regulatory decisions instead of those being made for them?

It seems we have reached a point where taking action is in place.

More updates later, as the campaign proceeds, as well as more explanations about IFRA, the 40th amendment, saftey, and what it has to do with us - perfumers, perfume connoisseurs and consumers.

For now, here is a quote from Tony Burfield:
"The Pro-Synthetics Stance of the EU Cosmetics Sector.
The ongoing policy direction of the Cosmetics section of the EU Commission then, is effectively condemning EU cosmetic/fragrance consumers to a synthetic chemical future, via the progressive & continuous assaults, often on dubious toxicological grounds, on the freedom to use, formulate with, & to buy, products which contain natural aromatic ingredients. These regulations against natural ingredients are biting deeper & deeper, such that incoming new perfumers do not have the skills to create fragrances with natural materials any more, as they are only expert in synthetic (Corporate) perfumery.
Cropwatch believes the right for EU fragrance consumers to choose natural perfumes composed entirely of natural ingredients, is a basic human right, and this principle should be tested in law. The current demand for 100% natural perfumes - and now even a demand for 100% organic perfumes - is high in the EU marketplace. However perfumery companies cannot legally place many traditional natural perfume types on the marketplace (e.g. citrus colognes, fougeres etc.) because of existing regulations and red tape which work against formulation with natural ingredients. But fragrance consumers don’t want 100% synthetic perfumes – they have noticed that they smell unfinished, ‘chemical’ & disgusting - they want perfumes composed either of both natural & synthetic ingredients, or of 100% natural ingredients, and Cropwatch can’t see why EU fragrance consumers shouldn’t have them."

Another interest read: I also recommend you read this article.

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