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August 25th: The Little Girl and the Big Apple

OK, it’s a shame to say it, but I will just say it: This was my first time in Manhattan, and it’s mind boggling huge!

It’s one thing to see it in Woody Allan movies nodding my head in an embarrassing amount of approval for the city life, as opposed to actually visiting here; When I saw the hundreds of stories building towering over my head, even the highest of heels seemed belittled…

Walking the Upper East Side, I did everything a city girl would do when visiting a larger-than-life metropolitan. I walked up the 5th, Park and Madison Avenues and was trying to swallow as much mileage out of my only-two-more days in the Big Apple, feeling like a figure stripped out of a fashion magazine walking between pages of high-end ads…

I walked tirelessly, as there was so much to see, and stopped on the way only for a snack from the smoky pretzel-stands, or to smell the “roses” in Bendel’s, Bergdorf Goodman, Saks and Takashimaya.

At Saks, I got a sniff-a-boo at the Bond No. 9 scents, but tried not to get too attached, as I already had my mind set on Chinatown. This line is a lot more interesting than I had expected, and I am looking forward to try more when I get the opportunity.

I also smelled Eau de Reglisse for the first time, and marveled at the Caron Urns, falling in love all over again with the mysterious and dark scents that this house manages to release into the air so reliably. I was swept off by the pepper, nutmeg, musk and vetiver ordeal of Poivre, intrigued by the dark, WWII sentimentality of N’Aimez Que Moi – dusky yet dewy roses and violets; but my real surprise hit me when I reached Bendel’s, and fell head over heels with Farensiana: instead of the light, cheerful green note of cassie, I found there a deep mimosa and tuberose, underlined with vanilla and heliotrope. I think I will have to dedicate a whole trip just to the Caron Urns next time when I am in New York. There is nothing not to love there.

At Bendel’s I also smelled the dark George Sand for the first time, and instantly liked Kisu: a musky-clean vetiver scent with modest doses of white florals and rosewood – very similar to the concept of Narciso Rodriguez. Bendel’s also had the nicest l’Artisan Parfumeur counter, and Brandon was most enthusiastic to show off as many as 10 scents per minute (so after 3.5 minutes the entire line was covered…). I sampled many, but the ones that I will be wearing in the dog days of my trip to Israel are sure to be Bois Farine, Ananas Fizz and Premier Figuier Extreme.

I did not expect to find the Guerlain’s boutique scents at the bottom of Bergdorf Goodman, but I did, carelessly. As soon as I got in I was offered a spritz of Insolence (which I had to deny gracefully, by sniffing the salesperson’s hand repeatedly). It smelled gorgeous on him, but awful and obtrusive on the scented ribbon. I asked for a sample to get out of the situation, and he lead me right into a Guerlain heaven (which turned to be somewhat of a torture, since I was already covered with Caron scents, so I had no room to try anything really) – Rose Barbare, Cuir Beluga and Angelique Noir had to remain on golden satin ribbons. Rose Barbare was beautiful, and I gave up and tried it on one of my fingers (!), which I have never done before. I also had a bit of room for Jicky parfum on the back of my hand, which is one of the loveliest lavenders I ever smelled. They also had Vega, Liu, Derby and another beautiful scent which I can’t remember it’s name at all, but seemed like one of those perfect Chypres… It started with N I believe, but that’s all I can remember…

They also had three of the Ineke scents, which smell exactly the way there were described. My favourite was the lilac scent - After My Own Heart.

Takashimaya was already dark as a secretive tea house when I got there. I sniffed a few unknown-to-me scents, and than walked until I reached Central Park and stopped to eat an apple and an orange, while the scent of carriage-horse manure permeated the air to no end; it was already dusk, and the ducks were floating in the pond in search for left over crumbs of salty pretzels. A sound of old-fashioned Jazz music from a courtyard drew me to peak into a strange looking courtyard: a large King-Kong was surrounded by floating Japanese lanterns. I peaked in and than set off to the other corner of the park, to find a Broadway night…

Blind Scents Revealed on Scentzilla

Visit Scentzilla to read the reviews by Marlen and myself to the 4 mystery scents Katie have sent me, all christened by unusual names based on the titles of songs: Sleep by the Light of the Moon, Brand New Cadillac, Hermit McDermitt and The Sould of a Man. All were scents I never worn before (and I am embarassed to say I have never even heard about them before, what a shame! But also somewhat of a relief) . So more than just being an excercise and an experiment to see how much perfume advertising affects our perception of fragrance - it was also an opportunity to discover some unusual scents. Katie reveals their identity and adds her own comments about these four quirky scents. My favourite is Hermit McDermitt, of course... How could one resist an ice tea of lemongrass and galbanum?

Tabu

Tabu has a dry edge of spices and carnation with a heart of gold – rose, orange blossom and jasmine - sweetened with resinous honey note over a sultry foundation of patchouli, amber, oakmoss, civet and musk. Although the top notes seem dry and somewhat severe at first, they quickly evolve into voluptuous and seductive curves that whisper a lustful invitation.

And you better listen to those whispers, as Tabu is the definition of a good buy – a high quality, original perfume with class and lasting power (remarkable for an Eau de Cologne!) which any great name perfume house would be proud of, for prices as low as $8-$15 depending on the size. It’s also very reliable: it’s been around since 1932 and hasn’t been altered as far as I know. In fact, it is written in the history of perfumes as the trendsetter for perfumes such as the patchouli drenched Youth Dew (1952), the spicy carnation & incense Opium (1977) and the ambery-mossy Obsession (1985) that tried their hand at this Oriental greatness only decades later, and in my opinion owe much for their greatness to the taboo breaking Tabu.

Tabu truly fits its name and image (as in the famous painting in the original advertisement): a forbidden, sensually provocative scent – just like the forbidden love between Anita and Holger in the unforgettable film “Intermezzo”.

The opening is dry and spicy with some orange notes; the heart is a well rounded floral; and the base is a sweet, animalic amber with powdery characteristics. It’s a seductive scent and I love wearing it in the winter or for bedtime, as it is rather comforting.

Top notes: Orange, Allspice, Carnation
Heart notes: Orange blossom, Rose, Jasmine
Base notes: Amber, Civet, Patchouli, Civet, Musk




Photo from Intermezzo from Luebe.de


Le Grandiose Révéler

I am back from the desert (paradise) Galiano Island, enjoying the serene scent of yellow freesias at my tabale, and am ready for the The Grand Reveal for the Blind Scent Reviews:

One:
Youth Dew Bath Oil (Vintage)

Two:
Tabu Eau de Cologne

Three:
Opium Fleur Imperiale (Limited Edition Summer 2006)

Thanks to Victoria and The Scented Salamander - you are both the winners of the Spicy Sample Pack!

Please contact me at ayala@ayalamoriel.com with your mailing address so I can send you the prize!

Thanks for participating!

Blind Scent Reviewing & Guessing Contest!


End War NOW, originally uploaded by Lali°.

We played a game amongst us, Scentbloggers, where we sent each other unnamed samples of mystery scents. Each of us had at least 6 mystery scents to review, and the sender is suppose to reveal them on their blog after posting the reviews made by their blind bloggy-friends…

I sent three samples of mystery scents to Victoria and Patty, simple labeled as One, Two and Three. These were all oriental scents of different types: One was a dark (visually almost black in colour), oil based spicy oriental, in fact a vintage one; the second was a cheap drugstore ambery-spicy oriental that can be found anywhere on the planet for less than $20, and was amber in colour; The last one was the most transparent in colour, pale yellow, and is a limited edition oriental, a light interpretation of a very famous perfume, spicy still, but much lighter than the other two.

Here is what Victoria and Patty thought about the scents:

One

Victoria says:
"#1 is a nice amber oil. Maybe a hint of something else, like myrrh. Sweet and warm. My guess is maybe something by Kuumba Made. I like it".

Patty says:
"Wow! Deep and oudish, this is a great. Really strong and dark at the beginning, but the drydown is just spectacular. I'm really loving this, can I get some, please? I just wish it stuck around a little longer and -- oh, no, when it's almost gone, all the good stuff goes away and leaves a kind of musty rubber sheets note that I'm not liking at all".

Two:

Victoria says:
"#2 is a soft oriental. Vintage, with a nice sweet amber drydown. Powdery. I think I have smelled this before. It reminds me of Lou Lou, it has that feel, that era. It is light and soft with not much punch, I can't tell if that is because of age or composition. If it is composition, then it might be something like Windsong, or some older Avons come to mind, like Occur! or Topaz. If it has faded due to age, it may be a more classic house like Guerlain. Whatever it is, I like it. The vintage appeal, gives it a romantic, nostalgic feel".

Patty says:
"This went on a little meh, a note in there was bothering me. Vintage? It's drying down with a note in it that I personally don't care for. It just smells vintage to me, old fashioned, a little powdery".

Three:

Victoria says:
"#3 is modern, a fruity floral? I can't name the fruit, but it doesn't smell straight floral. I like this one very much too. Powdery with a coolness to it, maybe a touch of anice, do I smell tobacco, violets, ozone? A light medicinal note,benzene? Not a clue. Strangely compelling".

Patty says:
"Some white flower in this, a little sharp too, pretty, but not a smell that I'm going to keep in the memory banks as groundbreaking. Definitely pretty and wearable, though! It's just not lasting either".

I hope you could use Victoria and Patty’s blind reviews, and my clues above to reveal the scents yourself. I am just extending the game here, not really following the rules as we originally set, but I just thought it would be a fun summer game! Be the first to guess the scents, and win a sample pack of Ayala Moriel Parfums most spicy concoctions – Palas Atena, Fete d’Hiver, Epice Sauvage, Finjan and Rebellius!

You are also invited to visit the other participating blogs in the bling scent reviewing game:
Aromascope
Perfume Posse
Perfume-Smellin' Things
Victoria's Own
Perfume Critic.Com and Scentzilla! (my own blind reviews will be posted on there very soon)

The Big Reveal of both the names of the perfumes and the name of the winner for this blind contest will be announced on Tuesday night!
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