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SmellyBlog

Fragrance Sampling Tips

The following tips will help you experience the scent to its fullest, and be able to decide which scent you like the most.

1. To avoid olfactory fatigue: Smell only up to 5 scents at a time. You may want to inhale fresh coffee beans between sampling the fragrances, to refresh your olfactory sensitivity.

2. Smell the perfumes from the vial or the cap first, to get your first impression. Keep in mind that the initial impression will fade quickly as the perfume interacts with your skin.

3. Using scent stripes or cards: you can apply a drop or spritz of perfume on a scent stripe (a stripe of watercolour paper or other absorbent paper can be an excellent substitute), and note the different dry out stages, and compare the different scents. However, this will not tell you how the perfume will smell on your skin, just how it smells on paper.

4. Apply a small amount of the desired perfume on the pulse points of your clean, unscented wrist (not previously scented!). Let the scent develop on your skin for several hours. This way you will experience the dry out phase, and learn how the perfume interacts with your own personal body chemistry and affects you mood. You want to "live with the perfume" for a day or more before making any decisions.

5. It is recommended that you wear only one perfume at a time on both wrists. This way you will experience the fragrance better.

Storing Perfumes and Fragrances

Perfumes are precious and volatile liquids. They should be kept under certain conditions in order to keep the scent lovely and fresh.

1. To open your perfume for the first time, gently twist the stopper counter-clockwise and pul it upwards.

2. When traveling, or if you like to carry your flacon with you in your purse, be sure to close ths topper properly, by applying pressure downwards when closing the stopper, and than twisting slightly clockwise. Doing so will ensure that the flacon is properly sealed, and that no perfume will spill out or evaporate.

4. We also recommend you store your perfume either in its original box when traveling, or inside a little cushioned pouch.

5. At home, your perfume should be stored in a dark, cool and dry area - away from heat, light and moisture. The ideal place would be inside a drawer or a closet.
The worst places in the house to store your perfumes would be the bathroom (steam and heat) and the kitchen (heat, steam and light). If your room is relatively dark, and you use up your fragrance ratehr fast, you may be able to get away with displaying the flacon on your dresser...

Fragrance Safety Tips


Following these simple golden rules will ensure you are using perfumes safely and appropriately.

a. Avoid contact with eyes.

b. Keep out of the reach of children and pets.

c. Do not swallow or take perfume internally!

d. Wear perfume by applying the fragrance onto pulse points behind ears and on wrists. If any sign of irritation occurs, stop use immediately.

e. Avoid wearing on areas that are exposed to the sun. Most of the citrus essetial oils present in almost all perfumes can become phototoxic (cause a rash or burning when the skin covered with this oil is exposed to the sun).

f. Keep samples away from heat and sunlight.

g. If you develop any allergic reactions, stop using the product

What to Wear on a Break-Up?


Dark Spring, originally uploaded by Ayala Moriel.

Dear Ayala,

Me and my boyfriend of the past 4 years just broke up. In those last four years not only did I spend the best of my time with him (we lived together), I also became an avid perfume collector. There is not one single perfume in my collection that does not remind me of something we did together and become flooded with emotions or tears. I’m overwhelmed!
What should I wear that will not spoil the perfume for me now that I am so sad and emotional? Should I get a new perfume or stick with the old ones?

Sincerely,

Bewitched, Bothered & Bewildered

Dear BB&B,

I am so sorry to hear of your loss, and it must be so difficult in Spring, the most romantic and cheerful seasons of them all... Many of us experience the end of a relationship almost as tragic as death. It is indeed an end to a part of our life and ourselves that will never be the same again. But remember, when one door closes, another one opens. May this be a new beginning and an opportunity to learn something new and exciting about yourself and discover new strengths within yourself.

As far as perfume goes, the answer to your question is quite complex. Unfortunately, there is no one right way to overcome the challenges that the strong association between memories, emotions and scent evokes. Here are a few ideas, and with a little experimentation, you will find the right thing for this difficult time in your life. Each solution has an advantage and also presents a challenge. I will point out each side of the coin and this way you will be able to make an informed decision based on what you think will work best for you.

1) Wear nothing!
When I am sick or particularly troubled, I tend to shy away from fragrances. The reason: I don’t want to spoil a scent for myself. Besides, I don’t feel like it. This is perhaps the most safe way to cope with the break up olfactory-wise, because this way you are sure to not associate a perfume with the tragic event.
The challenge: While in this approach you are controlling the association between a fragrance and an emotional state and unpleasant memories, you cannot guarantee that there won’t be fragrance associations imposed on you from the environment. For instance: if you move out to a new neighbourhood, and your neighbour or roommate cooks with cilantro every evening, you may associate the scent of cilantro with the break up later on, after this period is over and you can look back on it.

2) Start afresh!
If all of the scents in your perfume wardrobe stir intense memories of the loved and lost one, you may want to try something new. There is an advantage and a disadvantage to doing is: by starting something new, you will be able to remove any fragrance association from your favourite scents and therefore it is more likely that you will be able to come back to them when you are feeling more stable again.
The challenge: you will most likely create an association within yourself between the break up and a particular fragrance. Keep in mind that you may not be able to wear this particular fragrance later on without associating it with the break up.

3) Harp on those strings, rub your wounds with salt
For some of us, coping with loss and pain means experiencing it to its fullest. If you are like this, you may want to come closer to the scents that remind you of your loss most of all – the scent of your partner’s sweater, his/her favourite soap or shampoo, the special perfume you used to wear for him/her… Burry your nose in those smells and let the tears wash your face and lift the pain from your heart.

4) Stick with your favoruites…
When we feel insecure, uncertain, anxious or sad, sometimes what we need best is just a little bit of comfort; be it the cozy familiar bed, comfort foods, or a long relaxing bubble bath – we all have those little things we can treat ourselves to when we need extra moral support (and even more so when there is no one around anymore…). If you have a comfort scent, you may find it to be your best friend in this situation. A scent that you’ve always came back to before for a sense of familiarity, comfort and well-being. It might be a simple as amber or musk, or a powdery vanillic floral– whichever makes you feel better.

5) And to make matter worse…
If you have a scent you particularly dislike, perhaps a scent that makes you particularly moody or melancholic - you may find yourself drawn to it now. This can be another way to put into good use a scent you don’t normally wear. Perhaps a process of catharsis will occur and shed a new light on your view of the scent (and your situation).

I am sending you a big hug, and hope this will make you feel better and less lonely. Sometimes, when you are in an unhealthy relationship you don’t even have yourself as company, and that is the most profound form of loneliness… Remember, as long as you have yourself, you are not lonely, just alone.

Sincerely yours,

Ayala

P.s. Care to share your painful/cathartic experience with which scents you worn in a crisis situation and why? Open your heart and enter to win a miniature of my ultimate comfort scent, Cabaret.

Perfume Advice: The Power of Jojoba Oil


“Dear Ayala,
I love wearing perfumes, but unfortunately, most perfumes don’t last very long on my skin. What to do?
Sincerely,
Annonymous”

This question comes up so many times in my work with my customers and also comes from perfumer-lovers from around the word that seek my advice in perfume-usage matters. Therefore, I decided to make my answer public.

In most cases, the problem occurs for individuals with dry skin. Generally speaking, people with dryer and lighter skin tend to retain scent for less amount of time than people with darker and oilier skin. One cannot change their skin type or colour, but we definitely can use a little help from Mother Nature – in the form of Jojoba Oil.

Jojoba oil is a fantastic oil for many reasons:
1) It is the closest thing there is to a human skin’s sebum, which is very unusual for an oil from a botnical origin.
2) It is odourless and will not interfere with your scent
3) It is actually a liquid wax, and absorbs into the skin beautifully without leaving any oily residue
4) It has the longest shelf life and pretty much never goes rancid

What is jojoba oil?
Jojoba oil is cold-pressed from the seeds of the jojoba plant, a plant native to the Sonora and Mojave deserts (in Mexico, Arizona and California). It is cultivated for its oil in Argentina, Israeli, Mexico, Peru and the US.


Uses of Jojoba oil:

Jojoba oil is used as a substitute for whale oil in cosmetics (as a moisturizer) and as a carrier oil in perfumes. It could be used as a biodiesel fuel too, but I imagine this might be too expensive and there must be other oils preferable for the task…

Try using Jojoba oil as a massage oil for dry skin, unscented or with a only a few drops of your favourite essential oils.
Or as a make-up remover that is free of any additives that may irritate your skin (particularly around the delicate eye area).

How to pronounce jojoba?
Jojoba is pronounced ho-HO-bah (with an accent on the second “Ho”).

Where to find jojoba oil?
Jojoba oil is readily available in most health-food stores and aromatherapy shops. It is one of the most expensive oils there are, but the money will be well spent, because, as I mentioned earlier – it does not go rancid (like many other botanical oils do), so it will not spoil. Buy the smallest bottle available to make the investment easier on your wallet.

If you prefer to order online, I recommend these suppliers:
A Little Olfactory
AV-AT
Eden Botanicals
Samara Botane
Drugstore.com

How to use Jojoba oil to prolong the scent’s life on my skin?
I recommend transferring the oil to a bottle with a dropper. Apply a drop on one wrist and dab it over the other. You can also put a drop on your finger and apply to the nape of your neck, behind the ears or any other secret pulse points where you like to apply fragrance.
Now that your skin is well moisturized and oiled (you’ll notice it is not greasy though), apply your fragrance as usual, either by dabbing or spraying.
The layer of the sebum-like jojoba will not interfere with the scent, but it will create a nice bed for the scent to rest in and feel comfortable and stay around longer, as opposed to evaporate into the air or vanish into the dry skin.

When choosing a perfume from Ayala Moriel Parfums, I recommend you order the parfum oil. It’s packaged either in a 10ml roll-on bottle, or a 9ml parfum flacon. This form is more expensive, but it’s also far more concentrated than most of my alcohol based Parfum Extrait, as it contains at least 30% essence (while most of my parfum extraits are usually between 15-25%).

If the oil format is not available in your favourite fragrance – or if you prefer the lift and silage that is more prominent in the alcohol based fragrances - recommend you try layering the Parfum Extrait over a layer of a Crème Parfum. These come in my signature pendant, which when worn on the neck emits the scent as it warms up to your body heat.

To Summarize:
- One of the most efficient ways to prolong a perfume’s life on your skin is by moisturizing your skin with jojoba oil.
- Use cold-pressed unrefined jojoba (golden in colour and with a very little odour of its own)
- Always put the jojoba oil first, to create a layer that will hold the scent. Than apply the fragrance.
- You may do the same when using a layer of Parfum-oil or Crème Parfum and layer on top of it the alcohol version of the fragrance. This way you will get the best of both worlds – silage and longevity.

Image of jojoba bushes by Joujouka5000
Image of jojoba nuts by Johnida
Image of jojoba oil from Drugstore.com
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