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The Mood of Chypre

In the colour rosette test, Chypres are assigned to Group F. According to this theory in Psychology of Fragrance developed by Dr. Joachim Mensing and Christa Beck, consumers choose their fragrances based on 8 basic mood trends: Introvert vs. Extrovert, and Emotionally Stable vs. Emotionally Unstable (and all the other 4 combinations inbetween). Group F is that of the Extrovert and Emotionally Stable.

“These perfume users view themselves as being harmonious, well-balanced individuals, who rarely have unhappy or depressive moods. All in all, they are satisfied with themselves and with their lives. They are realistic in their thinking and put less stock in their luck and more in their own deeds. When problems arise, these women do not attempt to avoid them, but solve them in a practical, uncomplicated manner, and display self-confidence in doing so. These perfume users are keenly interested in the people around them, with emphasis centering on their private lives. They radiate human warmth and strength to their environment and appear to others as almost never being in a depressed mood. The users in this group enjoy providing others and are not infrequently very active in their community. In their desired lifestyle, these women do not have any interest in keeping up with fashion, in all of its varied manifestations. They love to look well cared for, and their clothing must always be suited to the occasion. In all matters, especially in the case of clothing, they display a pronounced sense of quality. Basically, there are not many very young women in this group of perfume users.” (Julia Muller, The Haarman & Reimer Book of Perfume)

These are generalizations, of course. However, I can’t help but feel the connection between the scent of Chypre and the effect it has on the mind. In my experience, Chypre bring a feeling of confidence, calm, sensuality, and a general feeling of well being and balance. Chypres are like a little black dress that never goes out of fashion and always fits the occasion (hopefully the size still fits too). Chypre means chic.

Chypre Week!

SmellyBlog is proud to announce Chypre Week - a week-full of chypre-scented thoughts, chypre reviews, articles. The first post to open this week is an interesting question I got from a SmellyBlog reader from Nebraska, which you can read below.

Although I can promise you that the whole week will be full of chypre, I cannot promise you that by the end of the week there will be no more chypre related posts. It is very likely that the chypre week will go above and beyond what's planned for it schedule wise. Chypre is my weakness (or is it my strength?).

So sit back, put on your favourite chypre and enjoy this Chypre week and the beginning of Fall... Here in Vancouver Fall seems to not want to come in yet. Still sunny. Not quite cold. But I think it's time to take out the warm and cozy Chypres anyways and start talking about them!

Memorial Wreaths and Mille by Patou


Memorial metal garland on tomb, originally uploaded by Monceau.

1000 is such a strange bird, and I have postponed trying it for a long time, expecting a floral explosion in the manners of Joy. Since it was mentioned as an exemplary osmanthus scent, I had to try it seriously this time. It uses top notes that are quite medicinal, but surprisingly, they all manage to go through some mysterious transformation, get rid of the white gowns and change into classy, lady-like vintage outfits instead. The opening is aldehydic and at the same time campohoreous, green and spicy, emanating from a prescription of eucalyptus and angelica and some stray coriander seeds for a good measure of ambivalent pleasure.

As I walk away from the eucalyptus forest and the dry vaporous leaves crushing under my feet are fewer, dirty, dark florals start to emerge, like the scent of a memorial wreaths of roses lying in the sun long after the memorial ceremony is over.

The floral heart of dark dry roses has also a green powderiness from violet and osmanthus and the indole characteristics of jasmine are swallowed in the dirty and earthy base of civet, patchouli, oakmoss and vetiver, like the decaying floor of the eucalyptus-grove. The osmanthus presence is there only as a suggestion for leathery, animalistic, peach-skin texture of suede … Osmanthus adds a fuzzy softness to 1000, which is otherwise a ladylike, aldehidic chypre floral. But it is truly the eucalyptus that maintains the character of this perfume as its presence floras as an ethereal spirit above all things.


Top notes: Bergamot, Coriander, Eucalyptus, Angelica
Heart notes: Osmanthus, Rose, Jasmine, Violet
Base notes: Sandal, Patchouli, Vetiver, Civet, Oakmoss

Osmanthus Rising from the Ashes: Femme Parfum


Femme in pure parfum is a rare beauty that has become almost extinct. It is a different formulation than the more in-your-face sexuality of the modern reformulation of 1989 by Oliver Cresp – of both eau de parfum and eau de toilette, which still possesses the extreme individuality and general impression of the original woman, but has a significantly different (slightly plasticy) ambery base and daring top notes of cumin.


In 1943, Femme was created in the ruins of Paris during World War II. As the lotus flower stems out of death and putrefaction, Femme is a bright, warm-coloured coral found in the depth of a dark cold ocean amidst the ruins of steel ships and dead submarines.


Originally uploaded by titanium22.

And this happens also on the olfactory level: from the interaction between mundane notes of common spices (cinnamon, cloves), the dirty earthiness of patchouli, labdanum and moss, a few floral staples (rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, orris) and a few oily-fruity aldehydes which could have been discovered as a by-product of weapon development, a beautiful, golden flower rises:
It is modest and unusual, with a quiet presence that is warm, powdery and leathery all at once, yet it is a flower. The ghost of osmanthus. A flower that did not lend its essence to the composition of Feem, but nevertheless is the fruit of the lovemaking that occurs between strange essences in the privacy of the test tube.

Top notes: Peach, Plum, Peach, Bergamot, Lemon, Rosewood
Heart notes: Ylang-ylang, Jasmine, May rose, Clove, Orris
Base notes: Musk, Amber, Oakmoss, Vanilla, Patchouli, Benzoin, Leather

Chant d'Aromes


Ashridge bluebells, originally uploaded by Today is a good day.

One speaks of the moods of spring, but the days that are her true children have only one mood; they are all full of the rising and dropping of winds, and the whistling of birds. New flowers may come out, the green embroidery of the hedges increase, but the same heaven broods overhead, soft, thick, and blue, the same figures, seen and unseen, are wandering by coppice and meadow." (E.M. Forster from "Howards End")

Chant d’Aromes simultaneously reminds me of Spring and of Autumn, with its bitter-sweet tenderness, and a cheerfulness that can be likened to a flower emerging from a bulb after a storm. With its fragile and melancholy beauty it reminds me of the film Howards End – Leonard wondering in the forest amongst the bluebells until the grey dawn, the wind blowing in the blooming trees, the almost-mystical history of the house and the tragic tale of friendship, love and social differences that separates between people.

Chant d’Aromes is a delicate floral with subtle woody-chypre undertones. Noticeably, Chant d’Aromes has a uniform impression that is carried out throughout the different phases (that is not at all to say that it is a linear fragrance) – the beautiful floral heart notes are apparent from the first stage of the perfume, and gradually mellow down and lead into the more woody, mossy notes.

Chant d’Aromes opens with top notes of mandarin, bergamot, peach and aldehydes. These are there only for a few moments, to introduce the luscious, dew-laden floralcy, and disappear leaving only a trail of retro aldehydes that maintain a soft and bitter-sweet mood all along.

The heart is primarily honeysuckle, supported by fresh, morning-dew blossoms of gardenia and jasmine – (unlike the heavy, intoxicating night blooming white blossoms with the tropical fruitiness). This beautiful floral heart gradually reveals some more warmth, just like a fresh garden gradually warmed up by the gentle rays of sun.
To its delicate sweetness there is now some added powderiness, from orris root and the unfolding cedarwood base notes.

It gradually deepens, with a velvety touch of oakmoss, and very minute amount of vetiver, that is light but adds a tiny bit of warm woodiness, along with transparent musk and frankincense notes, and a hint of the almond-like tonka bean that emerges from the Guerlinade.

The EDT is true to the parfum, but requires many reapplications. The parfum is not much heavier, just slightly richer and most significantly – has a more satisfactory staying power. I also find the pure parfum to be less bitter as the heart notes linger longer.

I don’t usually view perfumes through fashion lenses, but Chant d’Aromes has a white and cream coloured retro feel to it and I love wearing it with linen and pearls in warmer weather.

Top notes: Peach, Bergamot, Mandarin
Heart notes: Gardenia, Honeysuckle, Jasmine, Orris root
Base notes: Cedarwood, Musk, Oakmoss, Frankincense, Vetiver, Tonka bean

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