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SmellyBlog

Week of Teaching

Antique perfumer's organ at the Musée International de la Parfumerie

Perfumery students evaluating the scent of roses in Stanley Park, Vancouver

It's been a week of teaching at my studio has come to an end, which explains why I was unable to blog recently. And now that it's over I can share a few moments captured with my little digital iBall.

This week focused on technique and olfactory memory: sharpening the students' skills of remembering, recognizing, categorizing and identifying notes in different contexts. Understanding the different relationships between notes and which molecules they have in common helps greatly in achieving balance in perfume compositions and preventing clutter (the slippery-slope of natural perfumery since the materials are so complex on their own).

Simplicity was an important theme this week as well, learning restraint and sticking to the basics to achieve clear, concise olfactory statements. The fragrance families of citrus and Eau de Cologne for newer students and the intense challenge of creating all-natural soliflores pose a challenge of creating something that is focused on a simple theme yet not boring and also has enough sillage and longevity.

Perfumery student evaluating the fragrance of the living flower of white magnolia at the Rhododendron Garden in Vancouver

Nature is not only a source of materials, but also a source of inspiration. So I always make a point of taking my students outdoors as much as possible and study fresh living plants and notice the aroma in the air. When near water, or in the forest, or near the ocean or on the mountains - the surrounding plants, earth and air changes and so does the scent. This week we went to Ted and Mary Greig's Rhododendron Garden, to view the last blooming azaleas and find other fragrant surprises - which happen to include one rose that smelled intensely of musk and aldehydes (I found it extremely disturbing actually! It smelled like a perfume, not like a rose at all...), a dark red rhododendron redolent of spicy ylang ylang, and a white magnolia that smelled like fresh peeled tangerines and carob blossoms. We also found a white blooming tree that smelled precisely like styrax (Liquidambar orientalis).

In September, a new group of students is being accepted into this 2-year perfumery program. There are still 2 spots available. For information, inquire here.

Thinking as a Perfumer Seminar with BCAPA

On April 5th, I will be presenting a seminar about natural perfumery for aromatherapists with BC Association of Practicing Aromatherapy @ the Mary Winspear Centre in Sidney.

While there are some similarities between the two fields – aromatherapy and natural perfumery are fundamentally different. Having taught natural perfumery to aromatherapists in the past couple of years, it is clear to me that switching from one field to the other requires a shift in the way you think about aromatic botanical essences. Thinking as a perfumer requires a different approach and utilizes different techniques and approaches, which will be the focus of this one day seminar.

Intensive Weekend


Monique's Perfume Creations, originally uploaded by So Misguided.

The past two weeks have been uber-busy for me, at times even sleepless. The time this blog post is published will serve as an evidence. There were many things in the making - including two new retail spots in Vancouver (Belmondo Skin Care Studio is one, and the other will be announced at a later date), various special events (i.e.: Mi Casa’s Christmas Party & Open House) and last but not least 3 full days dedicated to my perfumery students who came over from all parts of North America just to learn natural perfume at my studio!

This is the first time I’m holding a mixed-level group, something I decided to try in order to allow my correspondence students a more realistic and convenient opportunity to travel for a more in-depth instruction over the course of 3 days instead of just one. The challenge for me was to not bore the more advanced students with redundant information (at least by presenting it differently and using new examples of raw materials and perfumes), and at the same time make sure those who are starting at step 1 receive a thorough introduction that I always give new students.

As much as theory is important, there is no doubt in me that the practical parts of the weekend are the most valuable and probably were the most memorable for my students (even if at times I’m quite sure that my exercises could seem a bit odd to some). Some things you just can’t learn from a book. Making perfumes is one of them. This is the reason why they have packed their bags and traveled so far just for three days. A picture is worth a thousand words and sometimes only seeing is believing. For others, encouragement and coaxing to think out of the box and to dare experimenting without worrying about how terrible the results may smell is what it’s al about.

What I wanted to achieve in this course more than anything else is to create a stimulating and nurturing learning environment that provides hands-on guidance and experiential learning. It is important for me to teach each student what they need to learn, based on their level, interests and professional goals. While many useful techniques and efficient work habits are taught, there is always room for new ways of thinking. And even though I am officially the teacher, there is always something new I learn from my students. We all perceive scent a little differently and sharing those concepts and impressions in the classes is invaluable. My students also teach my by forcing me to reflect on how I communicate both olfactory and abstract or interpersonal ideas.

The next term begins February 1st and there is room for up to 6 correspondence students in the first level. This will include an option for participation in the intensive weekend too, which will run either in May or June (more details TBA). To register you can pay online (the correspondence course fees include the essences kit for level 1) but you must first contact me with your CV and a cover letter explaining your reasons for applying to the course and your goals. There is an Early Bird price until November 30th offering 10% off the full tuition.

What's happening?

The last few days were dead on SmellyBlog but very busy otherwise for myself. I apologize for posting nothing whatsoever. Being the last weekend of the month there was of course the fantastic Portobello West Fashion + Art Market on Sunday; and Saturday was my first Foundation of Natural Perfumery Course, opening with a full day of classes here at the studio. Although not all of the students could attend (most of the correspondence students live out of the country, including overseas) it was an exciting and productive day and of course a very busy one. We covered fundamental topics such as:
- Studio set-up
- Methodology and Recording
- Defining "perfume" and what is "natural"
- The Building Blocks - Unveiling the Mystery of Aromatic Extraction
- Olfactory Journey - where the students began their own personal journey of getting to know the essences and their aspects, both subjective and objective

This weekend session was the first in a total of 6 monthly sessions for this group of students (one of which is an individual, one-on-one session at the lab/studio). Correspondence students may need to rely more on th extensive handbook that accompanies the course, but will still get the same one-on-one guidance only via phone and by sending in their work for evaluation and feedback. The book turned out better than I imagined, and there were only 20 copies printed for the 1st edition. Although the book could stand on its own in your studies it is really important to have the classes and/or personal sessions with me to get the most out of the course. Just like with my perfumes, the course is as personalized as could be. There are some exercises that may not appear in the book and would be assigned to individual students based on their level and specific needs. It's really tailored for each one of my students to excel and get a head start in the field.

The next course will start in September after the Summer hiatus, and registration is ongoing until than. Contact me directly if you are interested in the course and would like to apply.

News from the Nose: Ayala Moriel's Winter 2007 Newsletter

Click here to read Ayala Moriel's latest news, or continue to read below...

News from the Nose: Ayala Moriel's Winter Newsletter

In this newsletter:

New Retail Locations!

This season is a very exciting time for Ayala Moriel Parfums, as our perfumes are now offered in several new and very prestigious locations. For our Los Angeles and Japanese customers - you can now get your scents directly from:

Blunda Aromatics
304. So. Edinburgh Ave
Los Angeles, CA
90048
Tel: (323) 658 7507
e-mail: info@blundaaromatics.com

Lovely Antiques
169-27 Sakura-dai
Noda-City, Chiba, 278-0032
Japan
Tel: 04-7124-5724
Mobile: 090-6566-8802
e-mail: info@blundaaromatics.com

Immortelle l'Amour - New Perfume and Ayala Moriel's First Tea Blend!

This November, my newest perfume addition to my ready-to-wear fragrance collection is a perfume that I hold dear to my heart. I chose the dark maple-like aroma of immortelle (everlasting) flowers to play the lead role in this romantic, aromatic harmony. It also contains three different infusions of vanilla (vanilla absolute, CO2 and vanilla beans that I have infused myself), along with rooibos tea, wheat absolute, broom, sweet orange and cinnamon. Immortelle l'Amour is darkly sweet and hopelessly romantic.

To read more about the inspiration for Immortelle l'Amour, click here.

To purchase Immortelle l'Amour, click here.

Later in November, Immortelle l'Amour will also be available in a tea form, another heart-warming way in which botanical aromatics can be enjoyed... Immortelle l'Amour tea will be a rooibos based tea blend, infused with vanilla beans, orange peel and cinnamon created and hadncrafted especially for us by Dawna Ehman of Inner Alchemy Tea Co. in Vancouver. If you love tea, and particularly rooibos and vanilla, it will be wisest to pre-order your own tea-box, as quantities are extremely limited.

Smelly Stocking Stuffers and other Gift Ideas

Looking for ideas for the perfect gift this season? Our sample packages and Miniature Fragrance Wardrobes make a perfect stocking stuffers. And of course there is the ultimate gift - a custom scent especially designed for your special someone! Put it on your wishlist or you can purchase a gift certificate for a custom scent - simply by purchasing online and emailing us to let us know this is a gift. We will gift wrap your order upon request, or send a gift certificate per your request.

Ayala Moriel's Referral Program

To thank you for spreading the word about my little perfumery, for every time you refer someone to us you will receive $25 off your next purchase - effective towards both workshops and perfume orders (excluding sample purchases).

Candle Making Workshop and other DIY Holiday Gift-Making Workshops

Don't miss this rare opportunity to learn how to make beautiful, all-natural scented soy-wax candles with candle expert and artisan Nikki Sherrit of Garbiel's Aunt. Nikki will be coming to Ayala Moriel's Studio especially from Seattle to teach this workshop - and help you get your holiday gifts ready in the most creative and scentual way possible, the DIY way! Click here and visit our calendar for more details and to read about other workshops and classes offered this winter at Ayala Moriel Parfums studio - we will be offering other great opportunities for you to handcraft your own original gifts, including scented greeting cards, personal perfumes, body products and more!

Foundation of Natural Perfumery Course

In February 2008, Ayala Sender will be offering a unique course for those interested in pursuing a career in the field of Natural Perfumery. Spaces are extremely limited to ensure each students receives one-on-one guidance as much as possible, and includes 5 small group classes and 1 personal studio session with the perfumer. Click here for more details and course syllabus.

Warm regards,

Ayala

Ayala Moriel Parfums
AyalaMoriel.com
My SmellyBlog: SmellyBlog.com
Tel.: (778) 863-0806
Address: 1230 Haro Street, Buzz #295,Vancouver, BC
Hours: Mon-Fri 8:00am-4:00pm; Sundays & evenings by appointment only
Address: PO Box 93589 Nelson Park, Vancouver, BC, V6E 4L7
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