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Scents to Take You from Spring into Summer


Spring List, originally uploaded by Ayala Moriel.

For those who were wondering how come I’m wearing so many summery scents lately, the reason is simply the relatively hot spring we are experiencing in British Columbia. This is a nice compensation for a long, murky winter that seemed to never leave (until I came back from Israel, and apparently, brought the sun with me!)

It’s interesting to note, particularly when looking back and remembering how the summer almost seemed to refuse to make room for autumn, but turned into winter ever so quickly before autumn was quite finished its speech. It seems as if spring has turned into a British Columbian summer pretty much skipping the nasty cold bit when spring feels like winter yet you know it’s not winter yet. But I am not objective here. I might have just been away for a month when that happened (and yes, it did rain all the time when I was away in April, so there you go).

Here are my “editor picks” style entry for scents that can seamlessly take you from spring into summer. Some are equally fantastic on cool, crisp early spring days (providing a cheerful floral warmth) and others are so deliciously refreshing that they are simply too good to resist even on a steamy hot day. For me this hot spring means a lot of fun: picnics on the beach every evening, dancing, hedonistic dinner parties with close friends, and lots of perfumes to boost and make every occasion even more fun and memorable! And now that spring cleaning and painting is over it's time to have even more fun than before.

Here is where my heart is right now – most of these are what I wear now on a regular basis, and a couple are simply noteworthy even though they are new to me:

Newly discovered floral note:
Ylang Ylang.
I have been wearing my Coralle a lot lately, and really enjoying the juicy, mouthwatering aspects of this humble tropical flower. So creamy, so smooth, and just perfect. You’ll notice it appears in several of my favourites for this spring as well (i.e.: Chamade, Samsara, Tamya and Songes)

Classic spring floral:
Diorissimo
No additional comments necessary...

Most Innovative Hot Weather Gourmand:
Cognac by Aftelier
With notes of olives, cognac and citrus, this may sound more like a margharita than a perfume. However, it is not boozy at all, rather – fruity, green and with that exquisite oily feel of just-picked olives and freshly pressed virgin olive oil, sans the bitterness. This is so surprising you must try it to believe it!

My very own favourite spring & summer scent:
Tamya
In person she is my favourite girl ever (she must be hearing this a million times a day). As a fragrance this is my favourite floriental and a staple in my purse to-go kit. Tamya being equally non-demanding and romantic, floral, fruity yet skin-like I find it easy to wear in any situataion or season. But hot spring and summer days are definitely her favourites, where the yuzu lifts the spirits and the white florals dance glitteringly on the skin.

Favourite lilac fragrance:
After My Own Heart. This is soft, fresh, green, sweet, clean and very easy to wear and versatile.
And it was made by a very rare breed - a Canadian perfumer (now residing in San Francisco), which might partially explain why I have a soft spot for it and a lot of room in my heart...

Floral that impressed me but did not win me over:
Lys Méditerranée
With the scent of Madonna lilies and orange blossom, and a sweet vanillic base, this makes a lady-like spring floral that I’m surprised I haven’t discovered earlier. It’s not quite “me” but is very enjoyable.

The most exotic of them all florals:
Fairchild by Anya’s Garden.
If you are looking for something truly different that nobody smelled before, the steamy-hot, humid floral from Anya’s Garden, including notes of pandanus, champaca tincture, jasmine infusions, ambergris, toasted seashells and seaweed. This is the most genuinely tropical scent that I’ve ever smelled, made from fresh raw materials by a true olfactory artist.

Funnest Body Mist:
Lovely by Sarah Jessica Parker
This is light and subtle, slightly moisturizing and layers well with whatever else you feel like wearing this day. I loved it paired with Spring Flower! Lovely Liquid Satin is also nice to use as an overall moisturizing spray, but it can leave stains on clothing (or so the packaging says), and has a slightly different scent. I love both, personally.

Flirty Scent for a Night Out:
Spring Flower.
This is so cheerful it sets me in a fun mood and is an extra boost for hot dates and daytime fashion expeditions. It’s classy yet modern, effervescent and never too cloying.

Favourite White Floral:
Songes EDT by Annick Goutal.
The eau de toilette is light enough to wear in the heat and a great accompaniment when Latin dancing…

Year-round staple that reminds me of spring:
Narciso Rodriguez for her EDT

Modern Citrus:
Sugar EDP by Fresh.
I didn’t used to think that I love citrus fragrances all that much, until I made my very own Fetish (which has an overall feel of citrus candy)... Now that these notes (read: citrus) are so endangered, their magic (on their own and as a fragrance family) resurfaced for me. I am picking this one (Sugar) because the rich lemony notes in it are really to my liking. At first I thought I wouldn't like it and was a bit worried about the base (once the lemon party is over...). But it is not overly chemical like most of the Fresh fragrances, and the base is soft and reminiscent of cotton candy. Lemon is underrated!

Cheap and Fun:

CocoVanilla by Alyssa Ashley. This can be had for a mere $15 at the drugstore and is a simple yet fun vanilla and coconut scent (surprisingly). Last year it was sold as an alcohol free scent, and the texture was somewhat funky once it dried on your skin. This year it’s alcohol based, and for that price it came with a tube of body lotion. The original price was $25 and probably did not reflect how unpopular this scent is. I am not sure why but I am can’t complain about the price reduction.


Scent for the beach and poolside:
Monoi de Tahiti body mist from Yves Rocher. This is delicious, and wonderfully layers with Songes as well as CocoVanilla.

Re-discovered Summer Floriental:
Samsara EDT (I am almost ready for another bottle!)

Most Exciting Purchase this Spring:
Orchid and Boronia solid perfume duo from Aftelier. Orchid has become one of my favourite orange blossoms scents, and my most favourite natural perfume that was not made by me ☺

And to finish this lineup, it won’t be complete without a...

Classic Chypre:
Chamade, the galbanum-green floral chypre from Guerlain, with the tropical notes of Ylang Ylang the juiciness of cassis and the sweetness of vanilla.

Now it's your turn - What are your spring favourites that lead you gracefully into summer?

2006 Bestsellers


This post will be the first in a series of three to summarize the year 2006. It's going to be sweet and short, because I am very tired, but I may add a bit more and elaborate when I wake up tomorrow. This list, that is to say, is the bestsellers of Ayala Moriel Parfums.

Ayalitta
Ayalitta has always been popular, without me needing to push it. I think it's natural charm and cheerful innocence makes it just hard to resist. That is if you a chypre lover of course, and particularly if you love greens. I am very pleased to see that there is still room for chypres in this world, even though this genre of fragrances is threatened to become extinct.

Espionage
This year was definitley Espionage's breakthrough. After being an underground perfumes worn only by the perfumer (it's my signature perfume), it finally made its way to the hearts of a few others who seem to love it dearly.
Espionage is a leathery perfume, starting out smoky and woody, and drying down to a skin-scent comprised of vanilla and daring vegetale musks.

Tamya
The perfume inspired by my daughter, Tamya, happen to be as heart-capturing as her expressive blue eyes. I feel like I've done something right here, as it seems to maintain it's fresh take on florals, and it smells superb on men too!

Schizm
One of my earliest yet most controversial concoctions, the dichotomy of this fragrance seems to work its magical spell to this very moment. The white florals (tuberose, orange blossom and jasmien) are intoxicating, while moss and wild mushrooms add an earthy and sexual depth that is carnal and free and classy, all at once.

Finjan
The most approachable Middle-Eastern peacemaker - dark-roasted coffee sweetened and spiced with cardamom - seems to bring peace to those who wear it in a parfum form rather than drink it. It's not the caffeine, but rather the aroma of coffee, sweet balsams, honey and spices that brings a sense of well-being and comfort.

I want to thank all of my customers for making my dream come true. Your support of my business makes it not only sustainable, but also keeps alive something that I feel is really special in the world of perfumery.

The next Year 2006 Summaries will feature:
Ayala's Favourite Perfumes of 2006
Year 2006 in Natural Perfumery

Lists

Summer Scents


breathless, originally uploaded by Farl.


Summer is a late comer to where I live, but today was nice and sunny, even if only 20 degrees Celsius. The weather has been a bit temperamental in the last two weeks – cloudy, muggy, rainy… But mostly it’s been consistent about one thing: as little sun as possible. Sun is perhaps the one single thing that means summer. When it is present in abundance, it brings the feeling of generousity and freedom - the freedom to wear (or not) whatever you like without feeling vulnerable to the weather, and enjoy the simple yet luxurious sensation of summer – sunrays, warm sand, cool pools, salty and wavy oceans, juicy fruit, lusciously green grass shining with chlorophil and dew, and piping hot baked earth...

Today I am joining my fellow scent bloggers, including Aromascope, Perfume Critic, Perfume Posse, Perfume-Smellin’ Things, Scented Salamander, Scentzilla, Legerdenez and Victoria’s Own in making a list of my favourite summer fragrances. To these I will add later on this week, my own list of building blocks (notes) that make me feel like summer…

This was all Ina’s idea – and the list was to include a favourite for each of the following categories: floral, citrus, amber, green, spicy, leather, gourmand and musk. To this I will add Chypre (how obvious of me!). I am tempted to put Le Parfum de Therese in almost every possible category, but I will resist the temptation even though you know by now that it is in my opinion the best citrus, best Chypre, best leather and best floral (just breath in all those fresh jasmine petals!) there is for the summer.

I just recently made a list of my top favourites in all categories possible, so this list will be a bit different in a few ways:
1) For the most part (unless I had no choice!) I have omitted the “summer favourite of all times” that were in my previous list. For this very same reason there are no favourites from my own line in the list you are about to read. I am trying to avoid redundancy (sometimes).
2) I tried to not include perfumes that are for me a year-around staple, but rather just the ones that really shout summer as soon as your smell them.
3) Therefore, I allowed myself to add new loves to this list, as opposed to go over my wardrobe staples all over again... But that does not mean that they are not worth becoming a wardrobe staple!

Summer Floral: Tiare by Comptoir Sud Pacifique
Dabbing this one on from the precious tiny sample I got from Sali a while back, it saddens me that this scent is not longer available.
I am not sure why was this discontinued and replaced by the inferior Aloha Tiare, but this is just a fact of life… Tiare stands up for its name. A little dab goes a long way and will make you feel like a Tahitian girl wearing by nothing but Monoi. Tiare is a particularly fragrant species of gardenia, which is used for making the traditional Monoi de Tahiti my macerating the flowers into coconut oil. This is used to anoint both the body and the hair and is a luxurious mositurizer.
Tiare is a white floral that invokes beach, sensuality and happiness, and that’s what I love about it. It is simply tiare and coconut but that does not make it in the least boring – it’s a warm, soft and sweet floral.
I did not find Tiare online, but if you have a source that still carries the original Tiare, please share it with us.

* Let a thousand flowers bloom this summer: Frangipanni Absolute (Ormonde Jayne), Pure Poison, La Chasse Aux Papillon, Mimosa pour Moi, Hiris (Hermes) and Champs Elysees

Summer Citrus: Citron Citron
Citron Citron by the talented Miller Harris is a classic aromatic citrus but it is also quite original. What I like about it in particular is its bold dryness. This is achieved by pairing a woody base with complementary aromatic spices that share a fresh brightness with the tart citrus top.
Notes include: lime, lemon, orange, basil, mint, cardamom, coriander, cedar wood and white musk.

* Make your summer even more citrusy with: O de Lancome, Sugar (by Fresh), Grapefruit (Jo Malone), l’Eau de Hadrien (Annick Goutal)

Summer Amber: Obsession
If you find the original version of Obsession too heavy, you may enjoy wearing Sheer Obsession – the alcohol free version in the frosted bottle, with a more accented vanilla and citrus notes. I am not a big fan of single noted ambers, but these can be worn during the summer too. Obsession includes notes of: mandarin, tangerine, vanilla, orange blossom, jasmine, amber, oakmoss, frankincense and sandalwood.

* I would be curious to hear which ambers do you like to wear on a hot day.

Summer Green: Philosykos
Greens are the most difficult scents for me to wear, and particularly in warm weather. I prefer greens in a crisp cold weather of late fall and early winter. However, this miraculous scent is the most summery and wearable fragrance – despite the fact that it is very green. It may not have the best lasting power, but for this light and refreshing scent this is a good thing – as it allows you to recharge and get back your green fig kick.
Main notes: green fig, cedarwood, coconut milk.

* Make your summer even greener than your neighbour's grass with: Ofresia (Dyptique), Verte Violette (l’Artisan Parfumeur)

Summer Spices: Opium Fleur de Shanghai
If you don’t want to shop online to find Fleur de Shanghai you may opt for the current summer edition for 2006 – Opium Fleur Imperiale – not as wonderful as Fleur de Shanghai, but with enough myrrh and cloves in it to keep up with the theme.
Main notes: mandarin, magnolia, star jasmine, carnatinon, myrrh, moss.

* More spicy summer recommendations: Aqaba, Youth Dew Amber Nude

Summer Leather: Dzing!
This is not a particularly light fragrance, and it may not suit everybody to wear it on a hot summer day – but if summer for you means steaming asphalt with the air dancing above the ground and distorting one’s vision, or a watching the tigers jump through burning tires in the circus – Dzing! Is the leathery perfume you want to wear in the summer. If you cannot get a hold of Dzing! You might want to try Bvlgari Black, which is quite similar – but has a very persistent lasting power that you might find overwhelming in extreme heat.
Notes include: Cade, Rose, orris, Styrax, cinnam, Black tea, benzoin, Peru balsam, Castoreum.

* Get more leather kick this summer with:
Cuir d’Oranger (Miller Harris), Cuir de Russie (Piver), Tabarome (Creed)

Summer Gorumand: CocoVanilla
CocoVanilla by Alyssa Ashley – light vanilla, musk and coconut in an alcohol-free base. It is very similar to Musk Vanilla by Coty, only lighter. I also like the packaging – a retro cream-yellow frosted bottle, which brings to mind warm sand, tanned skin and banana ice cream…
I never noticed it until it was on the special sales shelf at Shoppers Drug Mart, for only $9.99 CAD. You can’t go wrong for that price… Online I can only find it in German eBay or other German sites.

* More yummy gourmands for the summer:
Ananaz Fizz, Vanille Banane (Comptoir Sud Pacifique), Champaca (Ormonde Jayne)

Summer Musk: Musc Alize
Although listed as a floral on CSP website, this is more of a soft and peachy musk than a floral in my opinion. The peach notes are subtle and lightly sweet. Musc Alize is all that’s needed for a clean and soft as skin musk scent that is subtle and sexy. It’s basically a white musk but without smelling too harsh like some white musks tend to be.
Notes include Jasmine, Ylang, Violet, Vanilla, Amber and White Musk.

* Which other musks would you prefer to wear on a hot day, rather than anytime of the year?

Summer Chypre: Le Parfum de Thérèse
Did I already tell you how perfect Le Parfum de Thérèse is yet? If not, than read my April review of this rare beauty.
Including notes of: Basil, Melon, Lemon, Jasmine, Hedione, Sour Plum, Pepper, Chypre and Leather notes.

* More Chypre chic for your summer: Mitsouko EDT, Miss Dior EDT, Femme.

Favourite Summer Incense: Kyoto
This was the most difficult category for me to pick a scent for – not only because I do not usually wear incense scents, but also because the idea of combining the smoke of incense with the heat of summer does not seem right (unless the incense is lit in a chilly stone katacomba). However, after thiking long and hard I remembered one of my most favourite incense scents and it seems most appropriate for the summer: Kyoto by Comme de Garcons from their Incense Series. Kyoto is fresh, light transparent and very Zen-like. It is green and woody and recalls soft and sticky pine resin rather than burning sweet gums. I smell in it mastic – a fresh and balsamic resin from a Mediterranean bush, used to flavour ice cream when my parents were little kids. It was very hard to find mastic ice cream when I was a little girl, but one time they put me in to their secret and I will never forget neither the peculiar aroma of the fresh resin in the ice cream, nor the somewhat gooey texture of the frozen desert. Kyoto brings this initial fantastic chill of mastic resins, but also has an interesting side kicks of coniferous harmonies that brings to mind dark, cool and ancient wooden temple.
Main notes: Incense oil, Cypress coffee, Terak wood, Vetiver, Patchouli, Everlasting Flower, Virginian Cedarwood.

* Which incense scents would you wear to smoke your summer away?

Lists


One of the most fascinating things about perfume is that they are power tool for self-definition. One can project themselves through perfume, communicate their mood through fragrance, or become what they dream to become through an olfactory fantasy.

Another thrilling thing about perfumes is that there are so many of them, which naturally calls for categorization, lists, and anything else to do with data-obsession. In fact, most of my work as a perfumer seems to be being able to categorize scents and find common elements in them that will connect them together harmoniously to create a beautiful perfume.

So, I have decided to dedicate this posts to lists, all related to perfumes. Sometimes I surprise myself with liking a scent I thought I couldn’t bear. There are constant changes, but there are also things that stay the same, no matter what, which are what I consider to be reflective of the core of who I am. Maybe this list will help me understand myself better. Or, perhaps, it will be a way for you, my dear readers, to gain some insight into my tortured soul…

My Current (new) Loves:
Le Parfum de Therese
Agent Provocateur
Narciso Ridriguez – in both parfum and EDT

I am eternally devoted to these CLASSICS*:
Vol de Nuit
Mitsouko
Parfum Sacre
Shalimar
* That means that you will never hear me saying anything bad about them, and never will find them not in my collection, even if I may not wear them often).

My Signature Scents:
Espionage
Ayalitta
And - a secret new perfume coming out this fall, about which I will tell you another time.I think of my own perfumes as representatives of different aspects of me. represent my personality the best, since I have conceived them and am responsible for their existence from start to finish. But these are the three that I consider to reflect best who I am and I can always wear and enjoy them, no matter in which mood I am in.

From my own collection, Ayala Moriel Parfums, these are the ones I wear the most and that work best on my skin*:
Charisma
Fetish
Fete d’Hiver
Guilt
Schizm
Tamya
Viola
White Potion
Zohar
*I must refrain from favouritism as these are all my own children; I love all my perfumes equally as they all tell a part of my ever-evolving olfactory story. Each is a chapter without which the story cannot be complete…

Being quite a sentimental person, I can easily go the seasonal route, so let’s do it:

My Spring Favourites:
Spring Flower
Diorissimo
Chant d’Aromes
Charisma

My Summer Favourites:
Opium Fleur de Shanghai
Philosykos
Le Parfum de Therese
Citron Citron
Fetish

Tamya
Lovender

My Fall Favourites:
Mitsouko
Ayalitta
Femme
Yohji
Noix de Tubereuse

My Winter Favourites:
Parfum Sacre
Fleurs d’Oranger
Ta’if
Youth Dew
Guilt
Fete d’Hiver

My Dark Persona is represented by:
Feuilles de Tabac
Espionage
Youth Dew
Agent Provocateur

My Favourite Perfumes on a Man:
L’Herbe Rouge
Feuilles de Tabac
ArbitRary
Eau Sauvage
Dior Homme

My Favourite Bedtime Fragrances:
No. 5
Tocade
L’Eau d’Issey
Aqaba

I used to be:
Diorissimo
Samsara

I would like to be*:
Joy
Narcisse Noir
L’Heure Bleue
Diorissimo
*But alas, I am not. These are perfumes I admire but don’t get along enough with to wear very often if at all. As such, they have become a sort of an “Idea Fix”. To be precise, I would love to be able to just wear one perfume and that’s it. But this is not possible unless I decide to cease being a perfumer. No way. I guess perfumery is the only stable olfactory definition I can give myself.

And while further obsessing with self-definition, I figured it’s time to change the dramatic photo on my blog to something more cheerful and less serious, in the spirit of Spring, and because you all know how fabulous one can look as a movie star. Don’t kid yourself, I don’t usually wear my hair in this late 40’s style (although I would love to!), unless I play a role in strange Indy films from that era... I thought it was about time to set the record straight ;)

And in the above photo I am sniffing roses in Jerusalem’s most wonderful gardens in “Yemin Moshe” neighbourhood. My dear friend Zohar Porat took the photo.
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