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Chez Noir

Chez Noir stands out in Coeur d'Esprit perfumes that I've smelled, with it's very retro, animalic-floral smooth bouquet. What makes this perfume particularly unique is the aging process, something that you don't get to smell much in the fast-paced world. Thanks to several years of maturation (I believe this was created in 2007 and left to mature ever since), and the usage of ambergris, the perfume became very smooth, like a homogenous being with a life of its own. There is a seamless transition from one phase to another, which is the mark of a well-aged perfume. This goes to show you that time is everything in the world of perfume. And that's also the magic of animalic notes, in particular ambergris. You may not smell it in the composition, but it has a unique effect of connecting all the elements together beautifully.

Chez Noir (which I suppose means "Among Black" in French) begins with intriguing licorice accord - the traditional anise is paired with green and sweet tarragon, and piquant cardamom, leading into a smooth floral bouquet of rose, jasmine and ylang ylang in which no particular note stands out, but rather all three flowers give the perfume a put-together, cohesive feel. There is something fruity about it, but not as a syrupy fruit salad, but rather reminiscent of the dried fruit (peach, plum, apricot) you'd find when they just discovered the fruity aldehydes (vintage Femme comes to mind). Following the faux-dried-fruit-phase, a nutty, warm phrase emerges from underneath, hinting at the dry-woody base notes, which converses delicately with the licorice and jasmine.

Licorice is the heart and soul of Chez Noir, with sandalwood in an important supporting role. The sandalwood is rich, warm and spicy. Woody with only a slight hint at lumbar dust. The other striking element is patchouli: a beautifully aged one at that, smooth and musky, without the sharp musty edge that traditionally appeals to those who are trying to mask their pot-smoking habits.

Top notes: Anise, Tarragon, Cardamom
Heart notes: Rose, Jasmine, Ylang Ylang
Base notes: Sandalwood, Patchouli, Labdanum, Ambergris

Interview with Jessica Buchanan in The Province

There are only a handful of Canadian perfumers, and only 2 of them are form British Columbia. My sister-in-craft, independent perfumer Jessica September Buchanan shares her story of how 1000FLOWERS came to life:
"I knew it was a risk but life is short, life is really short and if you've found something you really want to do (...) why not do it?"

She risked everything she's got by selling her home in Nelson, BC to study perfumery in Grasse, France. 4 years later, her company was born with the launch of the ozonic gourmand Reglisse Noire last fall, inspired by memories of visiting her grandmother and being treated with Licorice Allsorts, and this summer she introduced Fleur No.1, a delicate green floral inspired by the spring in the mountains of interior British Columbia.

Jessica was interviewed for The Province yesterday in "Capturing the smell of success" where you can read more of her philosophy and inspiration.
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