GiGi: Grand Gardenia Sans the Drama

Elegance, originally uploaded by _wintermute.

While evolution often follows challenge and crisis, few will admit that a sign that you have truly evolved is when your life, all of a sudden, has everything you dreamed of, sans the drama. Strangely enough, I find myself today, the scheduled launch date of my grand gardenia soliflore GiGi to be quite lacking any deeply emotional stories tales related to this dramatic floral note.

Where to begin? Perhaps the name choice. It is in reference to the musical of that name, starring the youthful, innocently tomboyish Leslie Caron. Somehow, the sentence about “making love in a gardenia scented garden” is the only thing from the film that got stuck in my mind forever and that’s where the name came from... While I can’t say there is anything un-romantic about it, in that context it seems so overtly dramatic to the point of ridicule. Which is precisely the direction I was heading for - lighthearted even if a bit mysterious (you can’t avoid that with gardenia!); rather than the Bluesy, Billie-Holiday-esque gardenia ornaments, a gardenia that is open to your own interpretation, with a mood that is easy to manipulate.

The focus here is on creating a rich, creamy gardenia from complex natural essences only. A true challenge indeed, when you cannot use Benzyl acetate; not to mention (E)-ocimene, linalool, asmine lactone, or gamma-decalactone (used to create gardenia headspace).

Instead, I have created an odour profile reminiscent of gardenia using the following notes:
Top notes:

Yellow Mandarin - chosen for it’s intense heady-floral aroma, reminiscent of creamy tuberose

Coriander essential oil and Cardamom CO2 - for their exotic spiciness, adding a hint of spice to the gardenia profile

Kewda Attar - for the sharpness, headiness, and hyacinth-like top notes that are somewhat resembling the head notes of gardenia

Rosewood - chosen for the abundance of linalol content, creating that smooth and soft, clean yet heady floral top notes.
For the heart notes I created a rich, creamy white-floral-indolic accord, using precious absolutes of:

Jasmine Sambac - the closest I’ve ever found to the scent of fresh gardenia, persistent, and somewhat green and fruity all at once

Jonquille - richly indolic, powdery, animalic and sweet, somewhat green as well

Tuberose - creamy, soft, suave and very close to gardenia absolute (which is a rare find that turns out only very rarely).

As for the base - the trick was to not overdo it as to not overpower the delicate floral heart, while extending the life of these fragile notes. I’ve chosen notes that complement the other ones, but are also rich and soft and subtle:

Myrrh - adding a hint of bittersweetness, which is very important in a gardenia.

Sandalwood from India - from the very last batch I was able to obtain; sandalwood trees in India are becoming extinct, and hence GiGi will probably not be around for too long... At least not in its exact current form - as other sandalwoods do smell different and are less creamy and deeply rich.

Ambrette CO2 - adding depth and a soft muskiness, sweet but not cloying, and adding an effect that is reminiscent of Monoi de Tahiti on a sun-warmed skin.

Vetiver from Sri-Lanka - contributing to the sun-warmed skin and beach notes in the dry out phase.

Vanilla CO2 and Absolute - for a round, soft sweetness.

GiGi is available for a limited time only (until my sandalwood runs out!!!), in the 1/4oz parfum extrait flacons, or parfum oil roll-on bottles, and of course the 1ml sample vials so you can try before you buy.

Win-Win Situation x6

Well well, dear readers, I lied.
There is no draw for any samples of my In A Station of the Metro 1st mod.


Instead, all the readers who commented (except for Heather, who already got one of course) are the winners of a sample vial. We only have 1 little problem - I only have 5 vials; so I will be decanting just a little bit of each one of them to create a 6th one. They will be only ever so slightly less than 1ml, and I am sure you will be able to derive much pleasure from your slightly reduced jus.

So, please contact me, all 6 of you, with a mailing address. In case you don't know who you are, here's the official list of winners:
oh, true apothecary

I thank you again for commenting, and hope you enjoy my little perfumed poem!
And one last thank you to Heather for initiating this fascinating project and inviting me into her beautiful poetic world.

Last Chance to Vote in Prix Eau Faux 2008

Don't miss the chance to vote for the best hilarious ad-copy in Now Smell This' Prix Eau Faux competition. Not only will you laugh your head off reading these ridiculous (yet not far from the truth) imaginary perfume ad-copies, you will also help our drying-up minds in the corporate perfume world discover the next star ad-copy-writer to convince you to buy more perfumes in the future. The reward for the winner is a $100 gift certificate from LuckyScent.

Poll is closing tomorrow morning, so hurry up and vote!!!

Ayala Moriel now at BeautyMark

Ayala Moriel Parfums are now available in BeautyMark!

As of today, Ayala Moriel Parfums can be found at Beautymark - the snazziest place in town for beauty advice and a cutting edge beauty experience. This is where fashionistas and movie stars get all their beauty must-haves including make up, skin care and fragrances from the leading niche brands.

Ayala Moriel now offers three distinct & original fragrances for the Vancouver perfumistas at this glamorous location - the naughty & delicious Film Noir, the playful & floral Tamya and the serene & woody-fresh Bon Zai.

With your support, there will be many more fragrances to come to BeautyMark's shelves, so let's empty these first ;) ... So go grab your chic handbag and your favourite friends and take them down to BeautyMark to sniff some lovely fragrances and support a local perfumer!

1120 Hamilton Street (just off the corner with Helmcken)
Yaletown, Vancouver
Toll Free:1-877-8BEAUTY (1-877-823-2889)

Blunda Seasonal Exhibition December 15

For those of you in greater LA - don't miss this unique event, where art meets perfume. There will be a new perfume to Blunde that night - Palas Atena in an oil form. The goddess of wisdom and war would sure be happy to join Tamya and Espionage for a Finjan-full of darkly brewed coffee... All four in a highly concentrated oil form (30% essence) and are just exquisite.
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