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FOUNDATION OF NATURAL PERFUMERY is a comprehensive guide and resource for students of perfumery and professional perfumers alike. At its core are 55 formulae and recipes, glossary defining over 250 terms, 7 useful tables and charts and 52 exercises for guided self-study. Originally a correspondence course and textbook for Ayala Moriel’s professional four-year natural perfumery program, this updated book brims with an abundance of new material and expanded chapters. You’ll be guided through the theory and practice of mastering the art of perfumery through creative and structural approaches to perfume composition, exercises, study guides, a glossary, trouble-shooting tips and more. But most importantly, this new edition contains 55 formulae including perfume compositions for each fragrance family and recipes for solid perfumes, tinctures, bases and accords. At its heart, this book offers hands-on guidance alongside a rich sensory experience, which follows Moriel’s unique teaching style. Students will not only discover the world of fragrance, they will develop their own olfactory vocabulary, adapt good working habits and ethics, and finally, create well-balanced and original perfumes. Ayala Moriel is a master perfumer and a leader in contemporary natural perfumery. In 2001 she began composing inspired botanical perfumes for her eponymous brand, which have become world-renowned for their artistry, storytelling and integrity. A passionate advocate for sensory education, she shares her knowledge and expertise through her Foundation of Natural Perfumery professional program, private classes, workshops, and her poetic SmellyBlog. She divides her time between the West Coast and the Western Galilee.
Rave Reviews for Ayala's Book!
“I wish I had this when I first headed out into this weird fragrant universe.” (Bruno Fazzolari)
“It is excellent, a bible on the process in fact and there's nothing else out there like it.” (Bernadette Ling, Student)
"Hands down the best 'how to' book out there!" (Anita Kalnay, Graduate Perfumery Student)
"This wonderful new book is a welcome addition to the literature on natural perfumery! (...) You will be smitten with both her expertise and her enthusiasm." (Mandy Aftel)
TABLE OF CONTENTS:
PREFACE
1.0. PREPARATION: SPACE, TOOLS & MATERIALS
2. METHODOLOGY AND RECORDING
2.1 The Importance of Recording
2.2 Observing the Materials
2.2.1. Fragrance Note Study Guide
2.3 Recording Formulas
2.4 Keeping Track of Modifications
2.5 The Formula Book
2.6 The Perfumer’s Journal
3. OLFACTORY JOURNEY: EXPLORING THE BUILDING BLOCKS
3.1. Unveiling the Mystery of Aromatic Extraction
3.2. Sniffing Techniques
3.3. Developing an Olfactory Vocabulary
3.4. Expanding your Olfactory Repertoire and Olfactory Literacy
3.5. Building Blocks Observation
4. ODOR CLASSIFICATION and CATEGORIZATION
4.1. Perfume Notes and The Fragrance Pyramid
4.2. The Different Roles of Notes
4.3. Odour Classification by Odour Type
5. INTRODUCTION to FRAGRANCE FAMILIES
5.1. Opulent
5.2. Floral
5.3. Chypre
5.4. Citrus
5.5. Fougère
6. APPROACHES TO BLENDING
6.1. The Architectural Approach
6.1.2. Horizontal Blending
6.1.3. Vertical Accords
6.1.4. Integrating Horizontal and Vertical Blending
6.2.1. Central Theme
6.3.1. Intuitive or Exploratory Blending
6.4.1. Abstract Concepts
6.5.1. Vision to Perfume: Working From Briefs
7. FORMULATION
7.1 Units and Measurements
7.2 Standardized Formulas
7.3 Concentrations
7.3.1. Formulating for alcohol base
7.3.2. Formulating for oil base
7.3.3. Formulating for solid perfume base
Appendixes:
8. THE HISTORY OF PERFUME
9. DEFINITIONS
10. FORMULAS & RECIPES
11. PROBLEM SOLVING & TROUBLESHOOTING
12. GLOSSARY
13. SUPPLIES AND MATERIALS
14. SUPPLIERS AND RESOURCES
13.1 RAW MATERIALS SUPPLIERS
13.2 PACKAGING, EQUIPMENT & LAB SUPPLIES
13.3 TRADE ORGANIZATIONS & PUBLICATIONS
13.4 SAFETY, LICENSING & REGULATIONS
13.5 SOURCES FOR VINTAGE, NICHE & RARE PERFUME SAMPLES
13.6 INFORMATION, DATABASES & RESOURCES
13.7 OLFACTORY EDUCATION & PERFUMERY TRAINING
13.8 PERFUME TRADE SHOWS
13.9 PERFUME GARDENS, MUSEUMS & ARCHIVES
15. BIBLIOGRAPHY & RECOMMENDED READING
The following recommended collection of oils will give you plenty of flexibility for formulating most of the major fragrance categories:
1. Basil Absolute or Oil
2. Bergamot Essential Oil
3. Cardamom Essential Oil
4. Cinnamon Essential Oil or CO2
5. Cocoa Absolute
6. Coriander Essential Oil
7. Frankincense Essential Oil
8. Ginger Essential Oil or CO2
9. Jasmine Absolute
10. Juniper Berry Essential Oil
11. Labdanum Absolute
12. Lavender Essential Oil
13. Lime (distilled or expressed) Essential Oil
14. Litsea Cubeba Essential oil
15. Myrrh Essential Oil
16. Neroli Essential Oil
17. Oakmoss Absolute (either Green or Brown)
18. Patchouli Essential Oil
19. Peru Balsam Essential Oil
20. Roman Chamomile Essential Oil
21. Rose Absolute
22. Rose Geranium Essential Oil
23. Sweet Orange Essential Oil
24. Spearmint Essential Oil
25. Vanilla Absolute
26. Vetiver Essential Oil
27. Virginian Cedarwood Essential Oil
28. Ylang Ylang Absolute
***NOTE: To prevent damage from liquid products, the book can be only shipped on its own and not with any other products. ***