Foundations of Natural Perfumery

FOUNDATION OF NATURAL PERFUMERY is a comprehensive guide and resource for students of perfumery and professional perfumers alike. At its core are 55 formulae and recipes, glossary defining over 250 terms, 7 useful tables and charts and 52 exercises for guided self-study. Originally a correspondence course and textbook for Ayala Moriel’s professional four-year natural perfumery program, this updated book brims with an abundance of new material and expanded chapters. You’ll be guided through the theory and practice of mastering the art of perfumery through creative and structural approaches to perfume composition, exercises, study guides, a glossary, trouble-shooting tips and more. But most importantly, this new edition contains 55 formulae including perfume compositions for each fragrance family and recipes for solid perfumes, tinctures, bases and accords. At its heart, this book offers hands-on guidance alongside a rich sensory experience, which follows Moriel’s unique teaching style. Students will not only discover the world of fragrance, they will develop their own olfactory vocabulary, adapt good working habits and ethics, and finally, create well-balanced and original perfumes. Ayala Moriel is a master perfumer and a leader in contemporary natural perfumery. In 2001 she began composing inspired botanical perfumes for her eponymous brand, which have become world-renowned for their artistry, storytelling and integrity. A passionate advocate for sensory education, she shares her knowledge and expertise through her Foundation of Natural Perfumery professional program, private classes, workshops, and her poetic SmellyBlog. She divides her time between the West Coast and the Western Galilee. 

Rave Reviews for Ayala's Book!

“I wish I had this when I first headed out into this weird fragrant universe.” (Bruno Fazzolari) 

“It is excellent, a bible on the process in fact and there's nothing else out there like it.” (Bernadette Ling, Student)

"Hands down the best 'how to' book out there!" (Anita Kalnay, Graduate Perfumery Student)   

"This wonderful new book is a welcome addition to the literature on natural perfumery! (...) You will be smitten with both her expertise and her enthusiasm." (Mandy Aftel)  

TABLE OF CONTENTS:

PREFACE

1.0. PREPARATION: SPACE, TOOLS & MATERIALS

2. METHODOLOGY AND RECORDING
2.1 The Importance of Recording
2.2 Observing the Materials
2.2.1. Fragrance Note Study Guide
2.3 Recording Formulas
2.4 Keeping Track of Modifications
2.5 The Formula Book
2.6 The Perfumer’s Journal

3. OLFACTORY JOURNEY: EXPLORING THE BUILDING BLOCKS
3.1. Unveiling the Mystery of Aromatic Extraction
3.2. Sniffing Techniques
3.3. Developing an Olfactory Vocabulary
3.4. Expanding your Olfactory Repertoire and Olfactory Literacy
3.5. Building Blocks Observation

4. ODOR CLASSIFICATION and CATEGORIZATION
4.1. Perfume Notes and The Fragrance Pyramid
4.2. The Different Roles of Notes
4.3. Odour Classification by Odour Type

5. INTRODUCTION to FRAGRANCE FAMILIES
5.1. Opulent
5.2. Floral
5.3. Chypre
5.4. Citrus
5.5. Fougère

6. APPROACHES TO BLENDING
6.1. The Architectural Approach
6.1.2. Horizontal Blending
6.1.3. Vertical Accords
6.1.4. Integrating Horizontal and Vertical Blending
6.2.1. Central Theme
6.3.1. Intuitive or Exploratory Blending
6.4.1. Abstract Concepts
6.5.1. Vision to Perfume: Working From Briefs

7. FORMULATION
7.1 Units and Measurements
7.2 Standardized Formulas
7.3 Concentrations
7.3.1. Formulating for alcohol base
7.3.2. Formulating for oil base
7.3.3. Formulating for solid perfume base

Appendixes:

8. THE HISTORY OF PERFUME

9.  DEFINITIONS

10. FORMULAS & RECIPES

11. PROBLEM SOLVING & TROUBLESHOOTING

12. GLOSSARY

13. SUPPLIES AND MATERIALS

14. SUPPLIERS AND RESOURCES

13.1 RAW MATERIALS SUPPLIERS
13.2 PACKAGING, EQUIPMENT & LAB SUPPLIES
13.3 TRADE ORGANIZATIONS & PUBLICATIONS
13.4 SAFETY, LICENSING & REGULATIONS
13.5 SOURCES FOR VINTAGE, NICHE & RARE PERFUME SAMPLES
13.6 INFORMATION, DATABASES & RESOURCES
13.7 OLFACTORY EDUCATION & PERFUMERY TRAINING
13.8 PERFUME TRADE SHOWS
13.9 PERFUME GARDENS, MUSEUMS & ARCHIVES

15. BIBLIOGRAPHY & RECOMMENDED READING

The following recommended collection of oils will give you plenty of flexibility for formulating most of the major fragrance categories:

1. Basil Absolute or Oil

2. Bergamot Essential Oil

3. Cardamom Essential Oil 

4. Cinnamon Essential Oil or CO2

5. Cocoa Absolute

6. Coriander Essential Oil

7. Frankincense Essential Oil

8. Ginger Essential Oil or CO2

9. Jasmine Absolute

10. Juniper Berry Essential Oil

11. Labdanum Absolute

12. Lavender Essential Oil

13. Lime (distilled or expressed) Essential Oil

14. Litsea Cubeba Essential oil

15. Myrrh Essential Oil

16. Neroli Essential Oil

17. Oakmoss Absolute (either Green or Brown)

18. Patchouli Essential Oil

19. Peru Balsam Essential Oil

20. Roman Chamomile Essential Oil

21. Rose Absolute

22. Rose Geranium Essential Oil

23. Sweet Orange Essential Oil

24. Spearmint Essential Oil

25. Vanilla Absolute

26. Vetiver Essential Oil

27. Virginian Cedarwood Essential Oil

28. Ylang Ylang Absolute

***NOTE: To prevent damage from liquid products, the book can be only shipped on its own and not with any other products. ***