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SmellyBlog

Changing the World, One Nose At A Time

A few weeks ago, I received an email from a lady who is what most perfumistas call a "perfume hater". Her email passionately inquired how can I live with myself being part of an industry so full of toxic, carcinogenic chemicals that threat the well-being of humans and the environment.

As I try to do with all correspondence that lands on desk, I answered her questions patiently and with the least judgment possible for her point of view, trying to educate without being to prissy and preachy... That seemed to be the right thing to do, because about a week later, she took the plunge and against her common sense, she bought perfume - a sample package to share with her friends and family - to make up for lost olfactory time so to speak... Not only that, she even posted about it on her anti-perfume blog, titled You Stink!

Today, I received another email from her, with a link to her review of Rebellius - the one perfume that won her heart from the selection of samples she tried, and I have to say, there couldn't be a better way to start this new year of perfume, with new hopes that perfume will gain better reputation even among its "enemies".

Adios 2007, Bring On 2008

It’s that time of the year again, when it’s coming to an end and we all feel we need to figure out what happened in it. The more I tried to think about it, without looking at my perfume collection, the more I realized that I simply can’t recall a scent that was released this year that truly rocked my world. I enjoyed many perfumes this year, just not new ones really. Even though I can’t say I haven’t tried. In desperation, I went to Basenotes’ fragrance directory to see what was new this year. It was early December, and there were already 499 new fragrances to choose from. This is actually pretty good, last year there were 643! But I have a feeling that perhaps the Basenotes team was just too overwhelmed with the new releases and haven’t finished enering it all, as other sources tell me there were about 800 new releases.

I scanned through the several pages of perfumes and fragrance houses, trying hard to avoid staring. Somehow, even though there were less than last year I just wasn’t able to bring myself to be interested. And that is, I think, the most remarkable thing about 2007. The sense of saturation and exhaustion is finally starting to sink in. The huge variety, instead of creating excitement, is bringing on my face the reaction of a bored “next!”. So I’m sorry to say, there is not going to be very much new here for you to read. As far as trends go - I think Robin of Now Smell This summed it up pretty well saying “fruity florals are on the wane, but they're not going to be replaced by variety". We’ve seen more of the so-called “pink chypres”, which are to me not much more than a fruity floral with a dry woody base.

In such an environment, it is really hard to get excited about anything. This perhaps is most obviously reflected in the recent action (or lack of action) on many formerly active and enthusiastic fragrance blogs. It just seems impossible to cover it all and at certain point, the hunt for new fragrances loses it’s appeal and is replaced by a new form of olfactory fatigue… As a result, I personally find myself becoming more introverted and just minding my own business (literally) and wearing more of my own perfumes as well.

All I can say is, bring on 2008, and let’s hope it’s going to be a lot more exciting year for fragrance world wide. I would love to see more free thought and less commercialism; more sincerity and less commercialism working behind the scenes and coming through in the scents that are put out there; less celebrity fragrances (or, at least, let’s see if they can at lease smell different for once) and more fresh ideas to kick in to the fragrance market’s blood stream…

I tried hard to come up with a “best of” list though, and make it as close as possible to last year’s, so at least you can have something to compare it too… So there you go:

The Discovery of the Year:
Bois des Isles
After years of ignoring and mostly “not getting” this beauty (disregarding it for its aldehydic floralcy which I usually don’t care much for), I fell in love with the suave, mellow, mysterious accords of this unusual beauty. Sandalwood, aldehydes, a sprinkle of spice and the mysterious allure of ambrette seed are what makes Bois des Isles’ quiet beauty irresistible once you finally notice it. It is abstract and timeless, and despite the fact that it is a very intelligent scent I consider it a comfort scent.
I finally gave in and got the last bottle from the Chanel boutique, a formulation that was discontinued, sadly, due to the big buzz around the Les Exclusifs (shame!).

Favourite New Niche Perfume of the Year:
Cognac
Cognac from Aftelier brought me back to the olive grove and the scent of crushed green olives when preparing them for pickling. The cognac note is not so dominant as the notes of olive fruit absolute, oliander, ginger and orange. There is so much olive in this that if you happen to lick your nose after sniffing you’ll find it terribly bitter.

The Surprise of the Year:
DSquared2 He Wood
I did not expect much from this scent, but instead of just another designer fragrance with an advertising campaign more appealing than it’s smell, He Wood actually smells like something I could wear…

The Re-Discovery of the Year:
(And by this I mean a scent I haven’t worn for a long time and re-discovered it’s beauty this year).
Nuit de Noel
I have found myself cuddling in the dark, inky fur of Nuit de Noel several times this autumn and winter…

Celebrity Fragrance Release:
I would have chosen Prince’s 3121 even if just for my love of the musician… But alas, the bottle did not stay on my shelf for very long. Instead, I passed it on to my brother, which I’m now regretting. He loves it and everytime he puts it on the entire house smells like it…
Another disappointing celebrity fragrance is Sarah Jessica Parker’s Covet. Although it’s not as unoriginal as most celebrity fragrances, it completely failed to excite me on any level (except for the fun photo shoot me and my brother did, parodying the packaging of the compact).

Most worn this year:
The perfumes I have been wearing the most this year are also more simple, and tend to be more dry than sweet. I think the top-worn are:
Immortelle l’Amour
L de Lolita Lempicka
Narciso Rodriguez
Farnesiana
Bois des Isles
Nuit de Noel
Songes
Pure Turquoise
Narciso Rodriguez
Lovely by Sarah Jessica Parker

The Disappointment of the Year:
2007 was full of disappointments, but the highlight of them all was in no doubt Les Exclusifs de Chanel – not only because they fell short from their mark, but also because of the manner in which the original “exclusives” (i.e. the Rue de Cambon fragrances) were treated as a result – the parfum extrait discontinued in favour of the watered down eaux de toilettes.

The Proud To Ignore Line of the Year
Tom Ford Private Blend
Even if I had it nearby I wouldn’t be rushing to the stores to try it. And for sure I would not be supporting this line. Like many other women, I feel that the ads for his new men’s scent were distasteful and demeaning for women… And if I may add, the fact that they come from a gay designer does not make them any less offensive.

Favourite Scented Body Product:
Lemongrass Sugar Scrub (Crabtree & Evelyn) with its creamy, buttery texture not only polishes the skin but also gives it a smooth, soft texture and is wonderfully scented with lemongrass and what to me smells like frankincense and peru balsam.

Favourite Scented Candle:
Diptyque’s Figuer was a nice candle for spring and summer, and as in last winter, I’m still enjoying Annick Goutal’s Noel candles, with their sweetly coniferous fir scent that fills the room without overwhelming it.

Merry Christmas!


The night before---, originally uploaded by tollen.

Wow, I was so busy celebrating with family I didn't notice I didn't wish you Merry Christmas yet... Better late than never though!
Wishing you all a cozy, happy and peaceful holiday season, full of warmth and love and acceptance.
Stay warm,
Ayala

Market Saturation

Are niche lines nothing but a very expensive advertisement? The Wall Street Journal examines the phenomenon of the increasing number of niche lines and the real motives behind them. I think this quote from L'Oreal about the Armani Privee line pretty much sums it up:

"(...)the scent remains unprofitable three years after its launch. French cosmetics company L'Oréal SA, which makes the perfume, says it's sticking to the scent because it hopes the cachet around it will stoke interest in Armani's more mass-market fragrances".

I find it utterly disturbing, yet not particularly surprising, to learn that the motive behind the release of such high-end lines is not to make beautiful perfumes for the sake of the art, and the audience who will enjoy them - but simply promoting those many cookie-cutter fragrances that are released in an alarming rate on a nearly weekly basis.

No wonder why the consumers are becoming more and more glacee towards new releases, including those supposedly exciting exclusive lines. There is hardly any soul left in the business. And this obviously comes across and translates itself into dollars. Maybe there is such thing as karma after all.

P.s. Thanks for The Scented Salamander for the link!

The Gift of Sharing

Today/tomorrow is winter solstice - the shortest day and the longest night in the year. Marking the darkest and the most difficult time of the year, where light and warmth is sparse, this is when human being around the world have created other ways to supply themselves with these important resources – by spending those dark, long, cold nights with one another and enriching them with sharing their experiences.

Storytelling, music and dance have been a natural way to combat the winter fatigue, depression and anxieties. In modern day living, when the communities have been broken down and families are spread all over the world, this time of year is a special one, when people actually do get together and set that time aside to nourish each other and keep each other company in the dark.

Some cultures have incorporated fragrance into the winter celebration. The following are a few ideas for adapting these customs into modern day living – whether you are religious or not.

Candles
Well, you all know what my people do to brighten up the winter. We light those candles on a 9 branched candlestick called Chanukia. Each night, one candle is added until in the 8th night of the holiday, the Chanukia is all lit up.
While Chanuka is over, the possibilities of lighting candles are not. Candles have a warm, soft light and make each situation feel somewhat more intimate and less intimidating. I always light candles in parties rather than have a full-blown electric light, to make my guests feel more comfortable and to set a different, more festive mood. If you have fragrant candles, all the better. Soy wax or beeswax candles are the cleanest burning and are better for you and the environment.
If your candles are unscented, you can scent them yourself by anointing them with your own oil. Simply rub the outside of the candle with an oil based perfume, and the room will be filled with a gentle aroma and a gentle light. I recommend using a natural perfume oil for that matter. I used to do that with my Moon Breath perfume with spectacular results, and I’m sure you could do the same with more simple combinations of oils that appeals to you. Use a base of jojoba, almond or olive oil for best results.

Bathing
In Japan, yuzu fruit are added to hot baths for a festive winter solstice bathing ritual. And indeed, I can’t recommend a better time for a citrus bath than now. While public bathing is rarely part of Western culture, this might be a good time to share your bath with those who you feel comfortable with and depending on the size of your bath. Citrus scented bath at this time will also have none of the photoxic risk (unless you live in a sunny country), as your skin will most likely be non exposed to the sun after taking the bath… Even if taken alone, this rejuvenating fragrant bath is sure to chase away the winter gloom and bring in positive thoughts like sunny orchards.


yuzu-yu, originally uploaded by ranjit.


Here is a recipe for a nourishing and fragrant citrus bath oil.

Yellow Yuzu Bath Oil
100ml Almond Oil
2 capsules vitamin E
20 drops Lemon essential oil
20 drops Litsea Cubeba essential oil
50 drops Yuzu essential oil
20 drops Grapefruit essential oil
5 drops Clementine essential oil

Incense
Frankincense and Myrrh were gifted to Jesus Christ upon his birth, and have played a symbolic role in other places in the New Testament (myrrh was given to Christ on the cross to relief his pain, as it is an analgesic). Symbolically, frankincense is associated with the sun, while myrrh is associated with the earth. There couldn’t be a better time to burn incense. An incense made of equal amounts of frankincense tears and myrrh resin would be very appropriate. Burn it on a hot charcoal in a censer to create an atmosphere in your gathering and bond between those presents; or, burn it in your home to clear it energetically, flowing new energy into the rooms where the incense is brought into, and creating space for more sunlight and warmth.


Botafumeiro, originally uploaded by antonioVi.

Tea
Once upon a time, my parents decided to buy a wood stove to heat the little hat they built in the Western Galilee. And a very clever idea that was, as there was no better way to heat the house other than that. So, they took me and my baby brother for a sleepover in a Druze family in the village of Hurfesh in the Upper Galilee, who brought us the next day to Beith Jan to buy the said wood stove. The family lived in one room, and in the night time, mattresses were placed all over the floor for the family members to sleep. There were only two additional rooms to the house – an outhouse, and the kitchen. And in the living room (which is were everyone really did live), there were only two pieces of furniture – a wood stove for heating the space and a dining table. The three kids that lived there had no toys at all, but they did have markers and paper. And they drew rooms with light bulbs hanging from their ceilings – something that seemed very odd to me (we did not have electricity in our village). Somehow, the bareness of their home seemed to be quite inspirational to my parents and I can’t remember myself being bored there even for one moment, as the kids were welcoming and shared all they had with us.

A wonderful spice tea that is served during the winter months in most Druze homes in the Galilee and the Golan heights is called “Hulnejan”. It is a combination of three spices: dried ginger root, dried cinnamon bark and a root called “hulnjan” that is spicy and earthy all at once. It releases a beautiful aroma in the home when cooked. Practically, it is left on the fire place the whole winter, and the family members and guests will gather to drink it (it is very spicy), sweetened with sugar and topped with freshly unshelled pecan nuts. It is still a mystery to me what “hulnjan” is or where to find it out of the Druze community, but a similar tea can be brewed, with spices of your choice.

chai, originally uploaded by uncommonmuse.


A tea ceremony of any kind is an excellent way to enjoy togetherness during the winter time. You can prepare your own chai tea with your own whole spices. I made this chai during Hanukah and we sat together and ate donuts and drank chai. It was unforgettabley delicious… I’m no tea expert, so take or leave what you like of this recipe. But one thing is for sure – homemade chai is so much better than those tea bagged chai teas from the supermarket.

2 tsp. Assam tea
1 star anise
½ tsp black peppercorns
1 small piece of whole, dry ginger root
6 green cardamom pods
4 clove buds
1 cinnamon stick
8 pimento berries
½ nutmeg nut
½ cup water
4 cups whole milk
4 tsp. sugar

In a small pot, cover the spices and tea with water and bring to a boil. Add 4 cups of whole milk. Bring to a simmer. Add 4 teaspoons brown sugar and cover the pot for 5 minutes to allow the milk to absorb the aroma. Strain and serve in small cups to encourage everyone to ask for more many times!
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