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Beyond the Spa


After The Race, originally uploaded by Ronaldo F Cabuhat.

My challenge with Aveda’s scent is experiencing them beyond the spa. Most of the fragrances, as lovely as they are, fail to remind me anything else than a visit to their calmly hair salons. As much as I value their customer service, I rarely need a perfume that reminds me of that. Don’t you agree?

The “Personal Blends” line was created for personalizing their unscented line of haircare and body products. I’ve been a long-time devotee of their unscented shampoo and at one time was tempted to go through the 12-piece array of scents. Out of curiousity and without any intention of adding them to the shampoo (I like most of my body and haircare products to be unscented), I gravitated especially to both of their blends titled Key Element Fire (no. 3 and no. 20). Both stood out as more interesting perfumes that evoke something beyond the aromatherapeutic spa experience at the salon.

Key Element Fire No. 3 is indeed fiery and spicy. It opens with a slightly grassy note, quickly developing into a warm, sensual mélange of flowers and spices: jasmine, rose, ylang ylang, cinnamon and cloves. The base is a little musky and woody, with vetiver as the dominant note but also a balsamic vanilla base that makes it delicious. I’ve been wearing it a lot this summer, and although it reads like a spicy oriental it is perfect in heat. I enjoy it in the oil base (what is called “Pure Fume Absolute) but you can also get it in an alcohol base in a little purse-size spray bottle. I like the quietness of the oil base for this one, and how it stays close to the skin, which makes it feel more personal to me. It is sensual, grounding, balanced and delicious all at once.

Notorious


Vintage, originally uploaded by hautechamp.

Notorious: Hitchock’s Film Noir classic and now also a fragrance from Ralph Lauren. How or why would the two be connected is beyond me. But perhaps my prejudice regarding this American fashion house put it in a box titled “tennis and polo outfits” and completely forgot about the vintage sport of Nazi hunting. What better time for designing wardrobe for this rare excursion, now that the supply of these unique villains is dwindling down?

In a weak moment of shopping therapy after some unpleasant beurocratic ordeal, I was intrigued by what a few months ago, at first sniff smelled uneventful from a now forgotten sample vial. But on that particular afternoon, on the black scent-card at The Bay it smelled like chocolate, cinnamon and atop patchouli and some modern musks; in other words – exactly what I needed to get back at my beurocratic villains and show them who’s in charge. On the skin it smells a bit like Narciso Rodriguze for Her, but not as floral and not as musky either. In the department store context it smelled unique, distinct and a little quirky, like the dirty heiress of Pure Turquoise which disappeared from the shelf without notice. At home it smells nondescript, like the beauty and cosmetics level of the department store where it came from. The cinnamon and cocoa mystery is barely there on the skin, and like most contemporary designer releases it wears a little better on fabric. Expect none of the intrigue, danger or post World War II Nazi-hunting paranoia in the film that supposedly inspired this jus.


According to Basenotes, the connection might have more to do with model licensing and the re-make of Notorioius starring model/actress Laetitia Casta the notes are:

Top notes: Black currant, Pink peppercorn, Bergamot
Heart notes: Chocolate Cosmos, White Frost Peonies, Carnation
Base notes: Patchouli, Musk, Vanilla, Iris



Vanille-Banane


Woman in Ruanda, originally uploaded by cookiesound.

Woman in Ruanda, originally uploaded by cookiesound.

Once upon a time, my mother and I were nomads. My mother just sold her house in Jerusalem and was about to move into the little hut that my stepfather was building for us in the Galilee, so that we can all live closer to nature and eat organic vegetables that we sweat on growing in the garden. Until the little hut was ready, my mother and I lived with various friends and family members. It is very probably that we only stayed there for a few days, but I was left with the impression that we lived in all those different places. Little girls’ memories are not the most reliable thing in the world, but I sure did sense the temporary nature of these living arrangement.
And so we “lived” in different cities, including Tiberias near the Sea of Galilee, and in Bat-Yam, near Tel-Aviv, to stay with my step-grandparents. They had a cottage with a garden, one of the very few that were left from the days when Bat Yam was all just little houses with gardens and everyone could leave their house without locking the doors and never worry about theft. And in their house, they had a collection of my stepfather’s paintings. One of the painting always puzzled me, so I spent hours staring at it: a young African woman balancing a cluster of bananas on her head. Since they covered her hair completely, they seemed like a strange hairdo and if it wasn’t for my parent’s conversation, I would have never thought about the weight of the bananas on the girl’s tender neck.

These were days of summer, and my mother and grandmother took me to the beach every single day. At least this is what I can remember. Every day, I wore my banana-yellow velour swimsuit that my great-grandpa from LA brought me on one of his rare visits. And I always hoped that my mother would get me a banana ice-cream bar. It must have been the new big thing, because until than the only flavours were vanilla or chocolate. All were dipped in a thin imitation chocolate coating that crackles under your teeth and slide off the bar as it melted. It was a lot of fun to eat it, and if you every go to Israel, look for it – those very same ice cream bar, same flavour and probably the same recipes, have survived the test of time despite the great variety and competition in the frozen snack kingdom at this part of the world. It’s quite astonishing, actually.

But will Vanille-Banane, from Comptoir Sud Pacifique survive such test? No one could tell. I have to agree with Ishai, a rare case of a male perfume aficionado who lives in Israel – that all of the “Vanille”-something share the following characteristics:
1) Whatever is the second part of the name (i.e.: NOT the “Vanille”) will appear first when applying the scent
2) Whatever is the second part of the name will stick around for a few seconds or perhaps minutes (if you are so lucky)
3) They all dry down to vanilla (I can also smell musk in all or most of them) and that’s the end of the story.

Vanille-Banane is no exception, and begins with the promising mouthwateringly delicious fake banana flavour that makes you want more. And the moment you start salivating and licking that ice cream bar, the fickle structure of cream and sugar suffers a melt-down and slides off the stick, leaving you with just that: a popsicle stick soaked in artificial vanilla flavour. Yum.

Whatever other notes might be there - cardamom, condensed milk or what not, are far less apparent than they are in a banana bread. But even a simple scent like that has its charm: it really goes well with anything to do with suntan oil and cheap beach desserts. I like it a lot with my Hawaiian Tropic sunscreen or sunblock, which smells like pina-colada and banana to begin with...

Eau d'Hermes


Eau d'Hermes, originally uploaded by strange_sickness.

Eau d'Hermes, originally uploaded by strange_sickness.

This afternoon is my first time wearing Eau d’Hermes. I stepped into the boutique on Burrard and Alberni after running some errands in the area (spontaneous trips to upscale boutiques takes off the edge of how stuffy the experience could be – especially since I’m always there just for their cheap perfumes and not the Kelly bag). My initial intention was to finally try Pampelune Rose (samples run out at Holt Renfrew and this was the first time in a few days that I wasn’t covered in Femme EDT when I left the house). Surprisingly, the 3 new Eaux didn’t even arrive at the Hermes boutique. So instead I decided to try Eau d’Hermes. I liked it right away sniffed out of the bottle, so I didn’t even bother spraying it on a paper beforehand. I’ve already heard about the cumin note so unfortunately this was not a surprise for me. But since I was a cumin kick anyway, it only made sense that I wear some on.

Eau d’Hermes didn’t quite smell like an eau at all. Instead, it was simultaneously fresh and warm. The cumin note, which must have been ahead of its time probably was what gave Olivier Cresp the idea for the Femme reformulation. But here it smells surprisingly clean and woody, not at all the carnal sweaty steam one gets from Femme. It is decidedly rather masculine and dry and the sensuality underneath reminds me more of oriental leathery compositions for men rather than the sanitary character of a short-lived “eau”. And despite the cumin, it did not smell like curry (or maybe, a French curry… I had Indian food in France and the only spice I tasted in there was cumin!), but rather woody and almost like caraway in that sense. And also a warm woody spice like cinnamon bark. There is a hint of masculinity at the top which proboably comes from lavender, and also an underlying leathery and tonka and perhaps patchouli notes. But what I particularly liked is how the jasmine shines through at the heart, along a rosy note. It's a very spacious floral accord (probably because of hedione, which has become somewhat of a signature of its creator, Edmond Roudnitska) and an unmistakable animalic sensuality of these florals while dariating a very well-behaved, lightweight presence overall.

I stepped out of Hermes feeling very content with my choice, and enjoying every moment of it and how it interacted with the environment. It’s rare to find a scent that does that so seamlessly – being present but mingle with your surroundings. I passed the hot dog stand and the cumin went well with the sautéed onions. Walking by hot pavements and sun-warmed asphalt it became part of that too, and my last stop before heading back home and writing this, I had some peculiar scoops of Marron Glace and Lemon Cream at the air conditioned Mondo Gelatto and it went well (both flavoured were contaminated with something else – the lemon cream had some kind of a chocolate and cloves rice crisps on top for no apparent reason; and the candied chestnut scoop seemed to have some brandied cherries thrown into the mix). But it all went well together – some peculiar warm-spicy and chilly-clean experience.

Simultaneously fresh and warm, Eau d’Hermes is not exactly an “eau” in the usual sense of a light, short living olfactory experience. In any case, expect something more along the lines of Habit Rouge or Le 3me Homme rather than Eau de Coq or Eau d’Orange Vert.

Eau de Gentiane Blanche


gentiana pneumonanthe, originally uploaded by Michiel Thomas.

gentiana pneumonanthe, originally uploaded by Michiel Thomas.

Too warm for a flurry, but too white to be a blue flower – Eau de Gentiane Blanche is redolent of pepper and paper, white tea and white musk with iris as the centre piece. I don’t perceive it as being overly clean nor musky. It’s very much an iris and pepper scent, with accents of freshly sliced pepper and dusty floral notes (Grasse being the closest I’ve ever been to the Alps - I’ve never smelled Gentiane before so I’m at loss comparing to the real flower).


It feels like a conference call between Paprika Brasil and Osmanthe Yunnan, Olivia Giacobettis Hiris and Jacques Cavallier’s Eau Parfumée au Thé Blanc (I believe it was co-created with Jean-Claude Elena?).

Of all the three new eaux from Hermes, this one intrigued me the most initially, which is why I’ve worn it a few days. But I don’t find it as disturbingly solanic as the green bell pepper of Paprika Brasil, nor as fleeting as Osmanthe Yunnan. Despite its relative simplicity, it seems like 5 perfumes in one, and while a few were on my maybe-list for a while (Hiris, Osmanthe Yunnan and Eau The Blanc) – Eau de Gentiane Blanche might just be the one. I’m yet to try the other two (Eau d’Orange Vert being a re-release of the classic one from way back – and I hope it wasn’t reformulated but I doubt that’s the case).

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