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Forbidden Perfumes for Passover


Forbidden Passover Perfumes, originally uploaded by Ayala Moriel.

Craving leavened bread and pastries this Passover? You may want to try these starchy, pastry-like perfumes. Or, alternatively, avoid them altogether. Some particularly zealous Jews even go as far as not using any toiletries made with grain alcohol (if you don’t eat corn and legumes during the holiday).

I’ll leave it up to you whether you use these perfumes to cope with the inert Middle Easter craving for freshly baked bread; or choose to use this list to decide what to clear off your shelves. But these are the starchy, pastry-like perfumes I found in my collection and after the customary soul-searching for leaven prior to the Passover.

My list is divided into three categories, by the degree of danger it may theoretically pose to those observing Passover: the dangerously non-kosher for Passover, containing wheat products; scents with unknown kosherism level that have a very clear pastry or starch-like qualities; and finally – gluten-free, rice-smelling concoctions. Feel free to add to the list as I’d love to hear of more scents from either categories.

Dangerously Non Kosher
These are dangerously non-kosher for Passover, which actually contain wheat absolute.

En Passant
This light cucumbery lilac is reminiscent of the first sprouts of wheat and actually contains wheat absolute. Could be the equivalent of a Hendricks gin in the land of lilac. But honestly, with this name - could there possibly be a more appropriate perfume for this holiday?!

Immortelle l’Amour
These cinnamon waffles are made with wheat absolute, maple syrup and orange. Delicious but definitely will not pass for a Passover brunch!

Questionable Pastries
The Passover kosherism-level of these scents isn’t confirmed but they are quite possibly benign despite the fact that they remind me of pastries or starch;

Farnesiana
This liquid version of violet macaroons is creamy and marzipan-like and as far as I can tell has all the baked goods qualities sans the wheat.

Hiris
Starchy raw root aroma, reminiscent of a semolina dessert.

Vetiver Tonka
With an un-identified cereal note, this vetiver is as warm as roasted nuts with a hint of caramel.

Bois Farine
Another starchy concoction, which is what I would imagine the “bread fruit” to smell like.

Sira des Indes
Named after a dessert of cream of wheat, banana and butter. That can’t be good…

Gluten Free
Consider switching to rice-based, gluten-free fragrances:

Ormonde Jayne’s Champaca
Basmati rice gives champaca absolute the royal treatment it deserves.

KenzoAmour or KenzoAmour Le Parfum
Milky rice with frangipani and an almondy cherry note.


"Robin" Starch Advert, originally uploaded by Motorman Tel.

"Robin" Starch Advert, originally uploaded by Motorman Tel.

Florals? For spring? Groundbreaking.


Miranda Priestly, originally uploaded by bsouza001.

The quote above (- Miranda Priestly, “The Devil Wears Prada”) is perhaps the only way to explain why the number of Spring lists on SmellyBlog is embarrassingly low. Spring has always been my favourite season and I’ve been very careful here not to be overcome by my naïve passion for flowers and get carried away.

For this list, I’ve decided to give you the option of floral or not, depending on where you live and what you are doing this season.

Spring in Vancouver
Cherry blossoms galore, washed by rain and tortured by snow.
My favourites are: Liz Zorn’s Waterflower for brighter days, and KenzoAmour Le Parfum for the cooler snowy ones. And of course my new Hanami perfume, which to me represents botanical beauty in my city and the first spring I was able to appreciate and enjoy here (it was last year and it took me ten years to get there!).

Spring in Israel
Bees are buzzing in the air, orange blossoms everywhere. To blend with this environment I enjoy wearing Zohar, my rather realistic orchard in full bloom soliflore; or for a more abstract and urbane take - Narcisso Rodriguez for Her.

April in Paris
I’m very excited to be visiting Paris this spring, but that won’t be until May. Rather than the obvious Champs-Elysées or romantic Paris, I am thinking of something sophisticated but light hearted like the bubbly Champagne (Yvresse) or more sophisticated and dark, namely Sous le Vent. Which is, by the way, the one and only item on my shopping list to Paris (besides pastries, of course).

Spring Cleaning
Pure Turquoise - nothing gets cleaner than that. You might just be able to skip the cleaning altogether if you wear this!

Easter Celebrations
Vanille Galante - in this Last Feast, heady Madonna Lilies are served with the sweet and salty touch of caramel & fleur de sel.

Passover Celebrations
Hiris by Hermes - starchy but without wheat, to satisfy the Jewish pastry craving during Passover.

The Spring that Never Comes
You know the feeling – spring is just not coming. It’s snowing, or raining, or perhaps the ground is still covered with ice and frozen rain and really dirty compact snow that hides who-knows-how-much dirt. For that I’d recommend a dabbing of Neil Morris Dark Earth – a cold, moist and very earthy perfume that matches its name perfectly. I also heard wonders about Black March, but never quite tried it, so perhaps you could tell me more about it?

Hay Fever
Spring also means green. Green shoots of bulbs and new green grass. And of course tree pollen that makes for runny noses and red teary eyes. To accentuate the sensation of sneezing, why not add to your breath a little bit of Yerbamate, or that fresh cut grass from Demeter’s library, or better yet – the iconic cheerful green of them all: Vent Vert.

Photo: Miranda Priestly, originally uploaded by bsouza001.

My very favorite smelly things this winter

Although spring has started, I have no illusions - we're going to have many gray days in Vancouver, with pouring rain and cold temperatures; and it's probably going to snow sometime in April, as it usually does (yet somehow everybody is shocked time and time again when that happens).

So the time is still perfect to summarize the scents that made my winter and make a little list of winter favourites for this year:

1) Sycomore
One of the first times I’ve worn this was when visiting Harrison Hot Springs this winter. In a way it reminds me of the scent of hot wood in a dry saune.

2) Hinoki Bath Salts
These are pretty close to the real thing and dye the bath in a bright green colour, alluding to fresh branches of these Japanese cypress. And – they can be had for a townie at Daiso.

3) Bois d’Hiver Candle
Even though I have a part in this product, I feel as though it’s a complete surprise every time I burn it. It feels very different from the perfume. And I just am so grateful to have had the privilege to work with Nikki on such a beautiful candle.

4) Roses et Chocolat Tea
Another fortunate experience of something that started with a perfume concept but ended up in another talented person’s hands (Dawna of Inner Alchemy Tea Co.). This tea is perhaps my first time falling in love with a black tea.

Interestingly, I feel like I’ve re-discovered the perfume when the tea was launched. It’s funny how when you revisit something you’ve done a long time after the fact you see it in a different light. Just a little more objectively I suppose? It smelled so much more perfumey and less obviously gourmand. I liked that. And the tea is a real treat (I ran out of over 2oz this winter just on my own).

5) Burning Sandalwood Incense
To clear my mind and make my home feel a little more tranquil, sometimes all I need is plain sandalwood incense that I got from Science World eons ago when they had an exhibit about China. That package seem to never run out…

6) Tea Rose perfume
Another rose and tea theme for me this winter. Rose seems to come back into my life. I created this one relatively recently. I have to admit I’m partial to tea roses. I think they are so much prettier and refreshing than the Damascena or Centirolia roses (this is due to the presence of the violety ionone in this Asian variety of rose0.

7) L de Lolita Lempicka
This is a winner yet another winter – a comforting vanilla and cinnamon scent that never feels overly done. It’s simple and easy to enjoy, but not as simplistic as, say, wearing plain vanilla from The Body Shop. It’s luxurious, comforting and sexy at the same time.

8) Immortelle l’Amour
My winter comfort scent, sometimes make me feel sticky like after eating pancakes with too much maple syrup…

9) Oeillet
Reminds me of washing my hair with dark sage tea in the winter time. A wonderful all-natural perfume!

10) Velvet Gardenia
The floral discovery for me this year. This is a truly haunting scent and is both pretty and mysterious, floral and sensual thanks to the labdanum base.

Greens for Patrick


Happy St. Patrick's Day, originally uploaded by jciv.

I’m in the ferry boat to Victoria, British Columbia’s capital whose downtown is dotted with Irish pubs. I’m on a strange spring break-meets-spring-cleaning tour. In other words, my space is being redecorated and I’m trying to avoid the chaos of living and working among scattered furniture and splashes of paint (the walls will be green, of course, when I return home in two days).

The sea route goes through the lusciously green Gulf Islands, where Celtic hippies reside; and today I’m told they will summon the devil with their squeaky violins as they drink alfalfa juice specked with spirulina powder. Therefore it is only appropriate to talk about green scents.

And although I’m away from my explosive library of samples and my head is dizzying as the ferry spiraling in-between the fjord-like moss covered rocky islands in an attempt to enter Salt Spring Island’s dock - I will make an attempt all the same to list all those green scents that make life worth living and hay worth harvesting.

There are all kinds of green. This has become even clearer to me as I had to go through swatches of paints to choose from - dill pickle green, or avocado mayonnaise? We went with the timothy hay after all. But I digress, as my intention was to talk about green scents and not so much the colour. Yet, there is some kind of equivalence - green being a mixture of blue and yellow can lead to difference direction - dark and cool with more blue; or bright, lively and vibrant with more yellow. There are the olives, which are more dirty; and than there are greens that are bordering with grey.

Similarly with scent, there is the green the evokes crushed living leaf and than there are the greens that reminds us more of dry stacks of hay. Green goes both ways - sharp and fresh or warm and sweet-herbaceous. There is coniferous green and than there is also floral green. And I haven’t even mentioned green tea yet!

Galbanum - Sharp or Sweet:
Galbanum, the resin from a plant related to carrot and fennel, is responsible for the green bite in scents such as Vent Vert and Miss Dior. However, in its absolute form it is sweet and soft and almost berry-like. Yohji perfume accentuates galbanum’s sensuality by anchoring it with caramel and berries, resulting in a delicious, powdery-green-caramel confection.

Green Tea - Sheer and Fresh:
Miller et Bertaux Eau de Parfum #3: Green, green, green and green, is exactly the kind of scent that has both green tea and freshness. Balmy Days & Sundays by Ineke brings a more brisk and minty aspect to the theme of tea. And if you like the tea but not so much the greens, opt for Eau Parfumee au The Vert or Osmanthe Yunnan.

Not-So-New Mown Hay
Many fougere fragrance play on the bitter-sweet aspect of the coumarin present in hay or liatrix. Yerbamate is an example where the sweetness is amplified.

Tomato Leaf - Quirky Garden:
For a floral green, get a taste of originality with l’Ombre dans l’Eau’s juxtaposition of green tomato leaves and dewy roses. Tomato leaf appears in only very few other fragrances and adds the distinct aroma that rubs to your hands along with the colour green while attending to your tomato vines.

Cucumber, Violet and Iris:
Violet leaf has a cucumber-like, floral powdery scent. The accent on the cool rather than the powdery-sweet-floralcy of violet appeals to me especially in No. 19 and also in the more recent Kelly Caleche.

P.s. And as if my day wasn't green enough, when I arrived to Victoria I had dinner at Green Cuisine.

Photo: Happy St. Patrick's Day, originally uploaded by jciv.

Autumn Lists

Autumn is a time of transition between abundance and light to restriction and darkness. The change in light and warmth sets at atmosphere of contemplation. A sense of wanting to find the essence of life and a place where one can feel content or safe before entering this darker phase. If life does pass before one's eyes before death, than this is perhaps like a little death, where I examine my mundane routines and how they represent my view on life and reflect bigger truths. As the previous year dies (the Jewish one, of course), a new year emerges, with possibilities of the unknown.

For a blog about perfume, this is the time of year where I would typically come up with a list of perfumes I like to wear this season or just general ideas. Although I like making lists (as I already mentioned many times before), I would like to include here a few other lists that are perhaps more serious and have more to do with the future of my little perfumery, this blog, my art and life. This will also give you a glimpse into what have been brewing in my many cauldrons this summer.

Give Me Something New
Despite the fact that the market is over-flooded with new fragrances on an average of more than one-per-day, every season I get requests from old and new customers alike asking me what's my newest fragrance and if there is anything new brewing for the new season.

With 47 existing fragrances (not including any discontinued perfumes), I honestly don't think I need to come up with a new fragrance. There is so much to choose from as it is that really want is for people to feel encouraged to find a true love among my existing collection.

As far as "news" go, I have decided to focus more on expansion of the collection horizontally rather than vertically, meaning: develop new and innovative products that will carry the existing fragrances. This allows for new and exciting collaborations with other like minded artisans, while offering new and exciting ways in which fragrance can be enjoyed: in a tea, in a candle or in a sachet.

At the same time, to satisfy my ever olfactory-starved fans, I am going to release exclusive limited editions of perfumes that are truly unusual and in many cases made of rare materials that I may not be able to re-stock on or that are simply so cost prohibitive that I can only afford to have very little in my organ and produce only limited quantity of the perfume. You could read more about that below and also as the fall exclusive get released (SmellyBlog would be the first one to know, promise!).

New Candles:

Two new candles are in the making as we speak, another joint collaboration with Gabriel's Aunt. I tired hard to keep it a surprise till now what are the exact scents but I can't keep the secret any longer: the first is White Potion - tuberose in a candle form (thanks to the existence of tuberose floral wax this is made slightly closer to the price range of an "affordable" candle). The other is Bois d'Hiver, which Nikki and I have been working on over a year to perfect and really wish my dream will finally come true this winter and I could bring the forest back home with my very own candle.

Exclusive Limited Editions:
This winter, I am finally releasing the much-talked-about Sahleb, a buttery orris perfume inspired by the Middle Eastern beverage of that name. Sahleb is a cozy warm pudding drink sprinkled with rosewater, pistachio and cardamom that is served only at winter time. It is made of the starchy rhizomes of the Early Red Orchid. It is just delicious.
The reason Sahleb is launched as an exclusive limited edition is because unfortunately I'm nearly out of the key ingnredient in it, a very high quality Florentine orris butter with 15% irone, with a creaminess that I have never encountered in any other orris butter, and cannot for the life of me restock it. I have only 100ml of this precious perfume, and for all I know that's all I'm going to have for a while. So 11 bottles is all I'm going to have for now and there will be absolutely no samples.

To-Do List for Fall:
With all the new products - Roses et Chocolat tea, the two new candles - obviously there is some work to be done, including:
  • Packaging (labeling, etc.)
  • Marketing and promotion (newsletters, press releases...)
  • Re-working my display at Portobello West so that the new products are featured yet without taking away from the perfume-focus of my company. I really need to make my display more 3-D and I am picking my brains trying to figure out how to do it without needing to carry too much to the market and still have a simple and clean display.
  • Making sure I have time for this blog (I've been very neglectful, I know)
  • And many more things that I simply won't bore you with here or else you'll stop reading my blog...
Now, to much lighter and fun lists:

What I'm wearing this fall:
The days of wearing Le Parfum de Therese and Un Jardin Apres la Mousson day after day after day are over pretty much since I got off the airplane at YVR.
Now I'm mostly getting back into Chypres again, a fragrance family that I have neglected for nearly a year. Last year, if you can recall, I haven't had a single Chypre on my fall list, even though it's the classic season for this family.
  • No. 19
  • Vetiver Tonka
  • Ginger & Amber (a very temporary name for a warm ginger and amber and orange perfume, which reminds me of a cashmir sweater)
  • Mitsouko
  • Chinatown
  • Burnt Amber
  • Immortelle l'Amour
  • Ayalitta - my newly re-found love which I have neglected for so long. Perfume, like faithful dogs, may be sad when you are gone but don't show it when you are back. I was wearing the solid mostly, and thinking to myself after 12 hours of wearing and still going strong: "hmm, perhaps I should only make Chypres from now on and this way no one will ever be able to say my perfumes don't last long".
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