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Gaucho’s Journey: The Spark of Two Flintstones



The creation of every one of my perfumes is signified by a succession of events that typically evolves as follows: a spark of inspiration lights a fire that feeds itself - an unexplained desire and longing, which in my case grows stronger and stronger the further I am away from reaching it. It is best defined as an obsession. And as most obsessions do, they are followed by a compulsive behaviour that is designed to settle that obsessive thought and bring it to peace and resolution.

Gaucho started with Steely Dan’s album of that name. I will let you on one secret: if there is any band I would seriously consider acting like a groupie around (well, I don’t think I would waste my time considering if I would ever meet them in person…) it’s Steely Dan. And it has very little to do with how the two musicians that form that band look (both are certainly not what you would typically refer to as good looking). There is something oddly powerful and particularly mysterious about their music. And lyrics. Which leave a lot to the imagination and therefore are both seductive and personable.

But let’s get back to Gaucho and why it stirred a perfume inside me. It is not particularly the theme song, but rather the general mood of that album that to me is the epitome of that distant/internally charged mood, and somehow the songs are all connected to each other. Most of the songs in Gaucho create an atmosphere of emotional distance that is disturbingly heart aching, as if you are watching a film, only that this film is about yourself.

The other part of the inspiration was that of smoky woods from South America. Namely Guiacwood, though this is not the only unusual South American wood I had in mind. The smoky, honeyed waxy rosiness made me want to create a perfume that smells different, and will evoke the proud loneliness of a gaucho in the middle of the deserted grasslands, surrounded only by animals and a vast silence not to be disturbed by a word but only the sounds of whispering grass, small explosions of branches caught on fire, the cries of animals...

There an than, between those two flintstones - the urban sound of Steely Dan and the woody essences from South America - flew the spark that started the search for my Gaucho perfume…

What's New for Spring 2008?

Spring 2008 will bring two new perfumes from Ayala Moriel: Gaucho and Gigi.
Gaucho will be accompanied by a matching tea, based on Yerba Mate.
Gigi is a limited-edition gardenia soliflore, the newest addition to The Language of Flowers - Ayala Moriel's Soliflore collection.
The following posts will be dedicated to Gaucho - the perfume and the tea. Gaucho was a particularly difficult to conceive perfume, for various reasons, and I would like to share with you some of my experience of this 6 year journey that took me to create it.
There will also be some guest appearance blog entries by Dawna Ehman, who created the Gaucho Perfumed Tea. So tune in for an exciting series surrounding mate, bitter herbs and the story behind the scenes of creating this perfume...

Ginger & Amber


Ginger Root, originally uploaded by cfwhitney.

Craving of recent weeks: ginger and amber perfume. Maybe it was the cold that stroke me, I was craving a ginger perfume, with the gorgeous authenticity that I've found only in one essence: organic ginger CO2... Instead, I was reaching out for Burnt Amber, and imagining the ginger part. This must have helped to chase away that cold...

Today at the lab I was playing around with the idea, and as I feared, this is not going to be an easy task. I always find it challenging to blend orienal ambery notes (mainly labdanum) with both citrus and spices without creating a mess. And by mess I mean a muddy, cluttered sensation, no definite statement and of course the downside of materials gone to waste... Very easy to get there, and this is what happened as soon as I got tempted to add some fresh ginger essential oil to the mix.

The next day will require a careful mixing of one of my amber bases along with ginger CO2 only. More to come...

Hardware and Hard Work


Hardware, originally uploaded by Ayala Moriel.

If you think perfumers have an easy job, think twice. When it comes to independent ones, a day's work may even include using some toolbox items such as a hammer and a screwdriver. Such as when one needs to open a traditionally-sealed can of Rose Otto from Turkey. Perhaps I've never came across these because I've never stocked up on more than an ounce of Rose Otto. This time I took the plunge at 50gr of this precious oil, the crop of year 2006, priced at 11,400 per kilo.

The work should have been easy (the supplier reassured me), if only the cork sealing the can was not covered with an overdose of solder. Usually this can be peeled easily. But this time I had to use a hammer, a screw and a screwdriver to get in...

Was it worth the work? Oh yes it was!
In contrary to the crude and industrial looking can, the precious oil seems even more precious. Packaging of raw materials is first and foremost about practicality, but in this case it also created anticipation... with a surprise in the end (for those who waited long enough like I did!).

This crop is lovely, to say the least. It's the most fantastic rose otto I've ever smelled. It has the clarity that often a Bulgarian rose otto has, with a fruity full body that marks Turkish roses. It's simply the best I've ever smelled, and I've smelled quite a few crops of different countries over the past 8 years that I've been in the business...

My studio will smell like roses for a while, even though I haven't really lost any of the scent through the crude process of opening the rose-otto soaked cork crumbled and spilled around, spreading the fine scent of pure Anatolian roses.

And as a summary, I now propose this to be the inspiration for the new logo fo teh Fumeasons' Association (for those not familiar with this secret society, it is an organization of free independent perfumers, and the only reason you've never heard about it till now is because its members are so protective of their independence that they refuse to admit they even belong to this society!):


Fumeasons, originally uploaded by Ayala Moriel.

That Back to School Smell, You Know What I'm Talking About!


, originally uploaded by giggle1025.

Was the excitement the one which created that special smell that filled the air year after year, grade after grade on September 1st? The scent of myriads of sharp pencils, new books, backpacks, shoes and everything along with freshly sanitized classrooms and the first tangerines – still green – packed for the 10 o’clock break by all the lucky students - theses simply cannot explain this strange phenomenon. I can smell hints of the September 1st smells sometimes when I enter art and office supplies stores, but it’s never quite exactly the same.

There must be something, some kind of a hormone responsible for this particular scent. Perhaps an enourmous amount of pheromones exuded from hundreds of young students with mixed feeling of excitement – consisting of fear from the unknown and thirst for learning – along with that of teachers’ attitude towards another year confining themselves and the youngsters between the walls of artificial intelligence-injection institution.

Perhaps it is the sleepless night that preceded September 1st that causes this feeling. It must create a particular illusion of the September 1st smell in one’s brain, when they least expect it. Proof: I had a good nights sleep and I can’t smell it right now!

However, every time I visit my daughter’s school at the beginning of the year, I smell it. Even though it’s in a completely different country than where I grew up in. The school sanitizers here don’t smell the same. The pencils might even be made from a completely different type of wood. And there are none of those first tangerine I told you about to be seen for a million miles and not until Christmas really.

I called my daughter’s teacher on the phone a few days ago to confirm our parent-teacher conference time - apologizing for disturbing her last days of summer vacation. But I didn’t need to apologize: she was in the class herself, getting ready for the school year already. I bet she was busy preparing that little atmosphere device that releases the September 1st smell all over the school on the first couple of days for when the students return to their desks. Teachers across the world spend all summer making sure their scent is synchronized and that on that very first day, all schools around the world will smell the same, and that these little students will never forget them. They might have had to vow an oath of secrecy before getting their licenses, to never reveal the secret of this ancient scent.

If you’re a teacher, please come forth and shed some light on this mystery. I promise to keep your reply anonymously.

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