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Autumn Wardrobe

I woke up this morning to a rainy fall day, which is likely to be followed by weeks of typical gray gloom, forcing me and most Vancouverites to stay indoors more than we'd like to. and while I do enjoy concentrating on my work now that summer's s0-called "distractions" are gone - it can be a little unmotivating to be constantly homebound and listen to the raindrops constantly hit my skylight.

Now is when I bring out my fall wardrobe of scents - richer, warmer and more dense and sensual scents that reflect the mood of the season, and bring to mind the rich colours of the dying autumn leaves - burnt orange, russet red, mustard yellow and golden ochre.

Chypres and Orientals are the staples for the season, and it's nice to have a couple of scents that will make you feel as if you're wrapped up in cozy warm sweater. But you might want something brighter and more cheerful for daytime wear or for days when you're in the mood for something different.

The ultimate scent for fall is of course Autumn, and not just because of the name. It is a fruity chypre - mossy with hints of spice. It reminds me of plum and apple picking season, with some scents of overripe fruit that hit the ground and stayed there. So it's always very appropriate for the season.

Schizm is an unusual chypre, featuring precious white flowers (tuberose, jasmine and orange blossom) the strange, animalic note of cepes, which are porcini mushrooms and a very carnal note that begins both gamey and mushroomy and evolves into a nutty pecan note. It plays on the duality between a harsh woody dryness and animalic-sultry sweetness. A little fickle like the weather we experience in transitional season...

These suggestions are more on the dark side; but you can also brighten your autumn day with a bit of crisper green scents that have some depth, such as in Rainforest.

If you need help building your own customized fragrance wardrobe for fall, don't hesitate to email or call the studio. Wardrobe can be as small as 3 scents (in all sizes - 9ml extraits, 5ml or 10ml roll-ons) and up to 8 scents for the mini-coffret.

Cognac and the "Mesique"


Olives, originally uploaded by chany14.

The name of the latest perfume from Aftelier, Cognac, might be deceiving. This is more of an olive scent than a cognac scent. Cognac is one of the most original fragrances Mandy Aftel, who is infamous for her use of hard to find, cutting edge natural essence. Cognac uses green olive fruit absolute along with a base of the fruity green cognac absolute (from residues of grapes in the wine-making process) and refreshing citrus top notes, to create a perfume that evokes the exquisite simplicity of life along the Mediterranean.

When wearing Cognac, I am instantly reminded of the "Mesique" (AKA olive fruit harvest), the breezy autumn days, chilly in the mornings but warmer around noon, when me and my little brothers would not go to school in order to help our parents harvest the olives before the first rains spoils them. After hours of olive picking, our fingers will diffusive of green fragrant fresh olive juice. When it was time for the ten o'clock break, we'd peel the first tangerines of the season, still mostly green on the outside but already sweet in the inside... But our olive-juice-anointed fingers will turn them as bitter as bittrex!

The texture of this fragrance, by the way, is quite oily - even though it is in an alcohol base. This must be again because of the olive fruit absolute.

Top notes: Blood orange, Fresh ginger
Heart notes: Oleander, Olive Fruit
Base notes: Cognac

P.s. On another note, I have to share another olive memory. My classmate Carmel, a constant seeker of strange sensory experiences, and with the talent of dragging anyone else into her obsession-du-jour, loved to smear herself with the black, ripe olives, and lead us to do the same. We would rub the soft black fruit all over our legs and they will become strangely moisturized and dry at the same time. And of course, we would return home covered in black juice with a bitter taste on our fingers that would last for the rest of the day. Thinking about now, it's surprising she has become a lawyer and not a cosmetic inventor. I can't imagine her being able to satisfy those sensory cravings in the courtroom!

Inbetweening* with Perfumes


Banksy: A guerilla in our midst, originally uploaded by !HabitForming.

Of course, all of this wouldn’t matter a dime if it wasn’t connected to perfume, somehow. For those two or three weeks dangling between summer and autumn, I like to surround myself with rather bizarre scents that don’t seem to make too much sense on the outside, but for me they mean just that – the anticipation of darkness in the presence of light.

Dusky, incensy white florals – there is something indulgent and cheerful about white florals. The ones that are underlined by incense, maybe even a hint of patchouli and spice – are the most intriguing and mysterious; and while very pretty – they radiate an aura of Femme Fatale that is ready to surprise any minute. My favourites of these are Noix de Tubereuse and White Potion – and most recently I also added to these Songes with its sweet, somewhat naïve charm; and Chinatown, with its sophisticated and modern mélange of gardenia, five spice, sandalwood incense and a coarse-voiced murmur of patchouli. Tuberose is particularly autumnal in my opinion, and I also suggest you try other beauties such as Carnal Flower from Frederic Malle. Orange blossom can also be an intriguing autumnal note when paired with dangerous notes such as civet and narcissus – as in Narcisse Noir by Caron. I also recommend Pure Poison by Dior for a modernized take on the marriage between white florals (namely orange blossom, gardenia and tuberose), along with incense and amber. But if you are amongst the fortunate to have access to a Caron boutique, I can’t think of a better scent for the season than Farnesiana. A perfection of cassie flowers and a bittersweet dark Caron base accentuated by tonka bean.

Coumarin compositions – the bittersweet effect of these hay-like compositions make them feel dangerous and delightful at once. My favourites are Yohji, with it’s green galbanum opening and a hint of marine, which dries down to a powdery delight of amber and vanilla; and Yerbamate – another deceptive scents that opens with a dry, herbal and extremely bitter wormwood (absinthe) and sense of soapiness and cleanliness that is very masculine, with notes of mate, lavender and dry hay, but than turns sweeter into a tonka and coumarin concoction. You may also want to try Fou d’Absinthe and Yatagan, from a similar category.

What about the leathers? And the Chypres? I will wait till the leaves change their colours to do so. By than, the scent of Chypre will dominate the forests, as the leaves will dry, fall and start to disintegrate and meld with the wet earth.

* Inbetweening is a term from animation, which is the poses used inbetween key poses, in order to smoothen up the movement and make it more (or less!) realistic.

Inbetween

When summer is not quite over, but fall hasn’t quite began, a few special notes linger in the air in preparation of the cold seasons and as a farewell for the joyous days of yellow sun and azure skies…

The scent of back to school – new books and fresh paper, clean slates, snow-white rubber erasers and neatly sharpened cedar pencils.

The delicate scent of beach lilies, pure white, emerging from the dunes…

The powerful view of Chatzav poles – those white statues of tiny white blossoms. The bulbs of the plant contain many microscopic needles, that sting the skin when touched. Therefore, the bulbs were used to mark the borders between territories.

In contrast to all this whiteness, the blood-red tart juice of sour pomegranates, spouring their hearts and staining those white holiday clothes.

The skies are still bright. There is no rain. But there is a chill in the evenings. And you know it’s only a matter of days before the trees will paint their leaves gold and crimson – only to shed them and leave them to rot on the ground.

Photo credit: Yotam Dehan © 2006

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