s

SmellyBlog

"Perfumer of the Year" Contest at Escents Aromatherapy

Vancouver-based Escents Aromatherapy is running a fun contest this month: send your formula for an essential oil fragrance or synergy to sales@escentsaromatherapy.com for a chance to win a $500 Escents gift certificate, and be featured on Escents' newsletter and website in December.

The contest deadline is November 21st.

New Tree Mini Chocolate Boxes


New Tree Chocolate, originally uploaded by Ayala Moriel.

I spotted these miniature chocolate packages at Capers yesterday, and couldn't resist getting a couple to try (they were placed right before the checkout, of course, the oldest trick in the book and they still manage to get me!). As you can see, they are $3.79 for a little sample package for a chocaholic on-the-go of three little chocolate tablets weighing 9gr each. These made-in-Belgium chocolates (for the US based company New Tree) are not organic, and rather pricey in my humble opinion.

I picked two to try:

Tranquility (milk chocolate with lavender) and Renew (dark 73% chocolate with cassis). I wouldn't have picked the lavender one unless it was for one of my chocolate truffle workshop students who raved about a lavender infused hot chocolate, and the lavender infused steam milk that she now drinks before bed time. I had to try it just for her!

The list of ingredients on the Tranquility mentioned natural lavender flavour and lime blossoms extracts. The term "natural lavender flavour" seems quite suspicious, especially after tasting it. It was quite awful and I have a feeling that rather than just putting in some lavender extract or essential oil, there is a lot more to it, and it ruins the flavour. It tastes artificial, somehow.

Renew, the blackccurant one, lists "blackcurrant with other natural flavour" and "grape extract". Maybe there is real blackcurrant there, maybe not. It's hard to tell with this kind of labeling. But what I am sure about is that it tasted marvellous.

I am not too keen to try the other flavours, because most of them did not make sense to me so to speak. I absolutlely don't dig their "Forgiveness" - dark chocolate with lemon, which sounds quite unforgivable to me. Ginger in chocolate does not appeal to me either as a flavour, and the other more agreeable and sensible choices were simply non-original (bitter orange with milk chocolate; coffee with dark chocolate or cinnamon and milk chocolate). But the cassis one was quite something, so I may come back for more.

Otherwise, the marriage between aromatherapy and chocolate craving seems quite scary to me...

Eau d'Hadrien


Valdorcia, paesaggio., originally uploaded by creativik67.

The mundane meets the magical in Annick Goutal’s Eau d’Hadrien*. There is nothing particularly original about this fragrance, which pairs a few intensely astringent citrus notes with a woody base. In fact, the particular accord of grapefruit, lemon, ylang ylang, patchouli and cypress reminds me of a particular aromatherpeutic synergy which left so little impression on me that I completely failed to remember what it was or where I smelled it. Upon research, I discovered that this particular combo if essential oil would result in a synergy for menopausal varicose veins and cellulitis**…

The initial citrus overload can be likened to getting sprayed by grapefruit essential oils right from its pores when attempting to peel it – resulting in two things: grapefruit juice dripping down your wrists and arms, and teary eyes. It will leave those tangy, tingling residues on your tongue for hours to come, and your fingers will remain bitter for the day. The citrus monopoly gradually becomes tolerant to soft, woody, powdery-sweet floral note of ylang ylang (I believe it’s the third grade of the essential oil by the smell of it), and underpinnings of sappy-green, bitter and warm-woody notes of cypress and patchouli. Cypress and lemon are one guaranteed way to smell like cleaning agents. For some reason, in l’Eau d’Hadrien this does not bother me.

Yet, the non-ambitious banality of Eau d’Hadrien is precisely what accounts for its charm: it gives you the same satisfaction of thoroughly cleaned house, fresh acrylic paint fumes still emanating from the walls, the carpets are still moist and exhaling that intensely orange aroma, the beds are made with fresh white sheets, and all you need to do is light a little candle and put your cold (and damp) feet up and relax while your bath tub is getting filled up with a pine-scented bubble bath.

I’ve been ignoring Eau d’Hadrien for many years, solely because it is a citrus. I mostly smelled lemon and a few herbs on the few occasions when I tried it, but I never really worn it properly (i.e.: on my skin, for an entire day). But I did enjoy tremendously the Eau d’Hadrien shower gel and lotion, which I found to be quite different from what I remembered Eau d’Hadrien to be: Sappy, green, citrusy, fresh, woody, brisk, bitter, sour, astringent, herbal. It does not feel mudnane at all. In fact, it has that sappy, resinous leafy feel reminiscent of Grand Amour's mastic. I really love it.
I even lit the candle last night and today (you guessed it, my place and my studio are being painted... I can now enjoy the fruit of my - and other people's - labour). The candle has a gentle throw, which fills the whole house with a delightful green tea and citrus aroma. It is significantly sweeter than the Eau de Toilette, and has the balsamic leafy tonalities of the body products.

Top notes: Lemon, Grapefruit
Heart notes: Citron, Ylang Ylang
Base notes: Cypress, Patchouli

* This review is for the Eau de Toilette, by the way. I haven’t tried the Eau de Parfum yet, but I’ve heard it is softer and sweeter, with the ylang ylang more pronounced and the cypress mellower. The lasting of the Eau de Toilette is excellent – it lasted on my skin for a good 7 hours, and there were still traces of citrus in the dry down.

** With no disrespect to aromatherapy at all, so please don't get me wrong; I do, however, lack the knowledge of understanding how a synergy such as that would work, so my knowledge is based on the separate actions of each of those oils and what they have in common, not being able to predict beyond that...
Both cypress and grapefruit oils are good for treating cellulite and water retention; Lemon and cypress help reduce varicose veins; cypress and ylang ylan gare excellent in helping to cope with menopausal symptoms, as well as menstrual crapms and PMS symptoms; and both cypress and citrus oils in general are stringent and disinfectant, which might explain why they are used so often in household cleaning products.

*** This is the first in a series of citrus-based perfumes, before they disappear on us completely. Let's hope not!

Vetiver in Ayurvedic Medicine and Aromatherapy

It would not be doing vetiver justice to mention it without taking into consideration its therapeutic properties and the long history of healing trailing behind this note. Vetiver is highly esteemed in the ancient Ayurvedic medicine. It also has many uses in modern Aromatherapy practices.

In Aurveda, vetiver is considered cooling to Pitta (the dosha which is made of fire and water). A vetiver paste may be applied to the skin in order to reduce fevers and cool the body. A self-massage in the morning with the cooling oil of vetiver root in a base of coconut oil (also considered cooling oil) is recommended for balancing the Pitta, and in general, for individuals with Pitta is their dominant dosha.

Vetiver is also esteemed for its pacifying powers to the Vata (the dosha of air and ether). Its actions are considered to bring calm and comfort to the mind. The relaxing aroma of vetiver helps to cope with stress, deepen concentration and acts as a rejuvenating tonic to the nervous system.


Small amount of vetiver oil can be applied to the oil used in Shirodhara – anointing of the “third eye” with a steady, delicate stream of warm sesame oil to the forehead. This oil can be scented or unscented, depending on the purpose of the Shiodhara to the specific individual.

Other ayurvedic uses of vetiver:
- In lotions for women to enhance the breasts, as vetiver is considered to have gentle estrogen-like qualities
- Soothing the muscels after physical strain.
- Treatment of rheumatic pain
- Prevent stretch marks in pregnancy, also a good anti-aging agent for the skin, because of its skin-regneration powers.
- The vetiver plant also seems to have a healing role in the environment, as it has the ability to absorb toxins and therefore purify the environment – the earth and the water – from pollutants.



dewsandwaves.com, originally uploaded by dewsandwaves.

In modern aromatherapy, vetiver is valued for its ability to treat various conditions of the nervous system, skin, muscles, joints and circulation as well as promoting emotional balance. The terpenes in vetiver act as a tonic and an astringent to the nervous system.

Vetiver is calming, grounding, protective, sedative, soothing, toning and uplifting. Vetiver stimulates the circulation and the production of red corpuscles.

The Nervous System and Balancing Emotions: Vetiver is particularly valuable in treating conditions such as insomnia, nervous tension and stress, nervous exhaustion and fatigue, as well as depression. Use several drops in a bath before bed time if you are experience insomnia. A massage with vetiver-scented oil can alleviate stress and bring a feeling of well-being and tranquility.

Circulation, Muscles and Joints: It also helps to relieve rheumatic and muscular pain and stiffness of the muscles and joints, as well as arthritis.

Skin care: Vetiver is also an antiseptic, and can be used in aromatherapy skin products and preparations to treat conditions such as acne, cuts, wounds and sores, and also helps to reduce oiliness of both scalp and skin.

References:
Julia Lawless, Encyclopedia of Essential Oils
Julia Lawless, Aromatherapy and the Mind
Valerie Ann Worwood, The Complete Book of Essential Oils & Aromatherapy
Victoria H. Edward, The Aromatherapy Companion
Jeanne Rose, The Aromatherapy Book
Back to the top