s

SmellyBlog

Happy Birthday To Me!!!

I usually don't fuss about birthdays, I just like to enjoy myself on my special day... But this one is different - once can only turn 30 once in a lifetime. And though I was dreading this day a year ago and two years ado, or more accurately - pressured to prove myself that I have accomplished something spectacular by the age of 30 - I was surprised that when the date started approaching I found myself feeling, in fact - excited, content and quite proud of myself for turning 30 and achieving the most important things for me, both in my personal and professional life (you know, blogs have that way of making people think that way about themselves...). Yet, I still have a lot to look forward to, more to dreams to fulfill and more work to do. And it feels good.

I started my day with organizing new ingredients that just arrived yesterday (what could be better for a birthday present?). Orange blossom absolute, orange flower water absolute, pink lotus absolute and lavender absolutes were the highlight of the morning. The beautiful aromas uplifting, soothing and exciting. A true treat for body, mind and soul.
The orange blossom absolute clean and floral; orange flower water absolute tart yet honeyed; pink lotus suave and mellow, softly floral; lavender absolute like an emerald jewel, velvety and fuzzily warm. As with anything that requires order, my obsession soon took over and I officially started a studio make-over, transferring many other oils into clear dropper vials, where their colours shine through, their texture can be sensed and experienced with the rythm and flow of the fragrant drops...

I was working on perfecting a few of my recent perfumes, to fine tune them to the new qualities of the building blocks. But also, I am re-doing some of my old perfumes, which I was not quite happy enough with their performance and thought the new ingredients will improve. There are only two words that will a perfume connoisseur: Discontinued and Re-formulated. But fear not, these changes that are being made to several of my older perfumes are truly going to bring them to a different level; if you loved them before, you will love them even more. The true spirit of the perfume will remain the same, only tweaked and improved thanks to the new ingredients.

Guilt, Sabotage and Schizm are of the few that got a special treatment today.

Guilt - a leathery bitter chocolate with orange blossom heart will be better than ever, with a delicious new amber compound that I have developed. And the orange blossom is simply to die for, especially with the new chocolate absolute, which is caramel-like yet shamelessly cocoa! The key here is to keep the cocoa as a team player with the other notes, rather than focus on it as the only star at the show. The orange blossom, amber and chocolate with the barely there hint of smoke interact beautifully...

Sabotage - a vetiver and tobacco scent with citrus-spicy heart, now with a new, very refreshing type of vetiver. I mus admit I have a personal bias against the marmite-like, dark vetiver note. It is quite challenging to work with. The new vetiver I got - a wild one from Haiti - has the same refreshing qualities of citrus, without being citrusy. It may be a bit more of a heart note than a base note, but I love it. I am waiting to see how it unfolds with the lemon leaf, tobacco leaves and tonka bean. So far it's been delightful!

Schizm - Originally made with narcissus note which I can no longer obtain, and a musky costus-based musk note which due to safety regulations I am forced to ommit, I have now decided to keep it's flamboyant, sassy yet classy attitude with accents of pink lotus and orange blossom to replace the heady yet powdery presence of narcissus, and the musk accord is now based on Cepes (wild mushroom), ambrette and a rough and dry cedar moss.

It will be at least a week until I see if my predictions worked, and than tweaking will be made if necessary. but so far it all seems to be leading to the right direction...

Welcoming Spring with a Grin

"After three years in this northern city
I experienced a deficit in sunlight
The chlorophyl in my green eyes has diminished
Making room for more whitenesss
And my pupils are growing, more eager to find the truth

After three years in this rain soaked town
My lungs, like dead logs in the rainforest
Are underlined with moss and undergrowth
I’d rather it be a waterlily, and die
A heroic death
Nurtured by a true love rather than
Sacrifice my voice to the wind of the snowdrops"

(March 1st, 2003)



I was born in the spring, and spring has always been my favourite season. In my home country, spring is gently warm, and blessed with millions of fragrant flowers in all shades of colours. I have missed spring ever since I have moved to the rainy West Coast city of Vancouver. The frequent rain washes off, along with dirt and pollution, the fragrance of anything that has the potential of being fragrant in other places. Even out in the nature, the bloom is not abundant in the spring as it is in desert lands... If there are any flowers they will appear later in the summer and will have little colour and scent that pales in comparison to the desert-flowers show-off parade of colours and scents. One needs to climb all the way up to the peaks of the mountains to observe the Alpine meadows... And so after a while I have learned to accept that there are different types of spring. The spring here is crisp and brisk, even (or more so) on sunny days. And although the cherry blossoms are now in full bloom, I still experience the spring here as a green spring, rather than pink or yellow as the cherry blossoms or daffodil flowers. And so, about three years ago, I have decided to create a scent dedicated to a cool, green spring - reminiscent of the first shoots of grass awakening and sprouting out of the earth and the mossy undergrowth of the forest, decorated only by hints of flowers that conform to this green concept and do not overload the scene with indolic exhibitionism.

As the spring approaches, it is time to announce some of my new fragrances for the spring. The new version of Grin is green as the one from the previous two years. This time it is less herbal, more floral yet much greener than ever. Grin opens with the sappy, crisp greenness of galbanum, leading to a cool-cucumber, green violet leaf note, spicy-green fresh-cut freesia notes of boronia from Tasmania , softened by jasmine and rose to create a full bodied floral bouquet. Underlined by oakmoss, green vetiver note and woody-musty oud oil that brings to mind a mossy undergrowth of the soil awakening at springtime.
Grin is available as pure parfum, in both alcohol and jojoba oil base.
This new Spring limited edition of Grin will be officially released on March 21st. Samples can be pre-ordered prior to that via email - Ayala@Quinta-Essentia.ca.

Welcome to my Smelly Blog!

This is the temporary home of my Smelly Blog - a perfumer's journal, a personal journey and a sneak peak into one of the most exciting and fulfilling experiences of human existence - scent and perfume.

This blog will feature essays about the creative aspects of perfume making, the Building Blocks of perfumery, perfume reviews, and interactive sections with DIY recipes for fragrant (and edible!) products, as well and activities that introduce young children to perfume joyfully (and safely). Many more surprises will be added along the way, and eventually this blog will move to it's permanent home on my upcoming new website.

I hope that you will find this blog smelly in the most affectionate and sensual way possible through the scentless cyberspace, and that it will open the door to a deeper understanding and enjoyment of our day-to-day-life.

Thank you for reading!

Ayala
Back to the top