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FOUNDATION OF NATURAL PERFUMERY is a comprehensive guide and resource for students of perfumery and professional perfumers alike. At its core are 55 formulae and recipes, glossary defining over 250 terms, 7 useful tables and charts and 52 exercises for guided self-study. Originally a correspondence course and textbook for Ayala Moriel’s professional four-year natural perfumery program, this updated book brims with an abundance of new material and expanded chapters. You’ll be guided through the theory and practice of mastering the art of perfumery through creative and structural approaches to perfume composition, exercises, study guides, a glossary, trouble-shooting tips and more. But most importantly, this new edition contains 55 formulae including perfume compositions for each fragrance family and recipes for solid perfumes, tinctures, bases and accords. At its heart, this book offers hands-on guidance alongside a rich sensory experience, which follows Moriel’s unique teaching style. Students will not only discover the world of fragrance, they will develop their own olfactory vocabulary, adapt good working habits and ethics, and finally, create well-balanced and original perfumes. Ayala Moriel is a master perfumer and a leader in contemporary natural perfumery. In 2001 she began composing inspired botanical perfumes for her eponymous brand, which have become world-renowned for their artistry, storytelling and integrity. A passionate advocate for sensory education, she shares her knowledge and expertise through her Foundation of Natural Perfumery professional program, private classes, workshops, and her poetic SmellyBlog. She divides her time between the West Coast and the Western Galilee. 

Rave Reviews for Ayala's Book!

“I wish I had this when I first headed out into this weird fragrant universe.” (Bruno Fazzolari) 

“It is excellent, a bible on the process in fact and there's nothing else out there like it.” (Bernadette Ling, Student)

"Hands down the best 'how to' book out there!" (Anita Kalnay, Graduate Perfumery Student)   

"This wonderful new book is a welcome addition to the literature on natural perfumery! (...) You will be smitten with both her expertise and her enthusiasm." (Mandy Aftel)  

TABLE OF CONTENTS:

PREFACE

1.0. PREPARATION: SPACE, TOOLS & MATERIALS

2. METHODOLOGY AND RECORDING
2.1 The Importance of Recording
2.2 Observing the Materials
2.2.1. Fragrance Note Study Guide
2.3 Recording Formulas
2.4 Keeping Track of Modifications
2.5 The Formula Book
2.6 The Perfumer’s Journal

3. OLFACTORY JOURNEY: EXPLORING THE BUILDING BLOCKS
3.1. Unveiling the Mystery of Aromatic Extraction
3.2. Sniffing Techniques
3.3. Developing an Olfactory Vocabulary
3.4. Expanding your Olfactory Repertoire and Olfactory Literacy
3.5. Building Blocks Observation

4. ODOR CLASSIFICATION and CATEGORIZATION
4.1. Perfume Notes and The Fragrance Pyramid
4.2. The Different Roles of Notes
4.3. Odour Classification by Odour Type

5. INTRODUCTION to FRAGRANCE FAMILIES
5.1. Opulent
5.2. Floral
5.3. Chypre
5.4. Citrus
5.5. Fougère

6. APPROACHES TO BLENDING
6.1. The Architectural Approach
6.1.2. Horizontal Blending
6.1.3. Vertical Accords
6.1.4. Integrating Horizontal and Vertical Blending
6.2.1. Central Theme
6.3.1. Intuitive or Exploratory Blending
6.4.1. Abstract Concepts
6.5.1. Vision to Perfume: Working From Briefs

7. FORMULATION
7.1 Units and Measurements
7.2 Standardized Formulas
7.3 Concentrations
7.3.1. Formulating for alcohol base
7.3.2. Formulating for oil base
7.3.3. Formulating for solid perfume base

Appendixes:

8. THE HISTORY OF PERFUME

9.  DEFINITIONS

10. FORMULAS & RECIPES

11. PROBLEM SOLVING & TROUBLESHOOTING

12. GLOSSARY

13. SUPPLIES AND MATERIALS

14. SUPPLIERS AND RESOURCES

13.1 RAW MATERIALS SUPPLIERS
13.2 PACKAGING, EQUIPMENT & LAB SUPPLIES
13.3 TRADE ORGANIZATIONS & PUBLICATIONS
13.4 SAFETY, LICENSING & REGULATIONS
13.5 SOURCES FOR VINTAGE, NICHE & RARE PERFUME SAMPLES
13.6 INFORMATION, DATABASES & RESOURCES
13.7 OLFACTORY EDUCATION & PERFUMERY TRAINING
13.8 PERFUME TRADE SHOWS
13.9 PERFUME GARDENS, MUSEUMS & ARCHIVES

15. BIBLIOGRAPHY & RECOMMENDED READING

The following recommended collection of oils will give you plenty of flexibility for formulating most of the major fragrance categories:

1. Basil Absolute or Oil

2. Bergamot Essential Oil

3. Cardamom Essential Oil 

4. Cinnamon Essential Oil or CO2

5. Cocoa Absolute

6. Coriander Essential Oil

7. Frankincense Essential Oil

8. Ginger Essential Oil or CO2

9. Jasmine Absolute

10. Juniper Berry Essential Oil

11. Labdanum Absolute

12. Lavender Essential Oil

13. Lime (distilled or expressed) Essential Oil

14. Litsea Cubeba Essential oil

15. Myrrh Essential Oil

16. Neroli Essential Oil

17. Oakmoss Absolute (either Green or Brown)

18. Patchouli Essential Oil

19. Peru Balsam Essential Oil

20. Roman Chamomile Essential Oil

21. Rose Absolute

22. Rose Geranium Essential Oil

23. Sweet Orange Essential Oil

24. Spearmint Essential Oil

25. Vanilla Absolute

26. Vetiver Essential Oil

27. Virginian Cedarwood Essential Oil

28. Ylang Ylang Absolute

***NOTE: To prevent damage from liquid products, the book can be only shipped on its own and not with any other products. ***

Four Sages Incense cones are a purifying herbal medicine, inspired by the Indigenous People's smudging ceremony of clearing space and aura. Here I used ethically wildcrafted botanicals and ones grown in my garden from both the West Coast of Canada and the Western Galilee, where I now live.

Four Sages incense cones contain Coastal Mugworth, White Sage (Sagebrush), which are both types of artemisia, a pinch of wormwood and clary sage from my garden, and of course - three-lobed sage that is the iconic scent of the Galilee.

These are hand-rolled in the traditional technique, made from finely ground sage leaves, and bound with natural gums or wood bark.

No saltpetre or charcoal used in these cones. Cones are generally faster burning than a thick joss stick (range of burning time may be from 7-15min, and produce more smoke. They are more convenient to burn while traveling and outdoors, and they stand on their own base, and therefore don't really require special equipment or vessels.  

Burning instruction: Prepare a heat-proof vessel, on a sturdy surface away from flammables and out of reach of children and animals. To prevent scorch marks, it is recommended that you layer some sand, earth or ash on the vessel.  Place the cone and light the tip of it, and allow the flame to extinguish. Because these are handmade cones, each has a different burning times. 

Coming soon! Frangipanni (Plumeria alba) extrait from enfleurage, vintage 2021. Grown in Clil, pesticide free. 

Enfleurage is an antique technique for extracting delicate blossoms, using living flowers who are hand-plucked and laid to rest on a bed of solid fat. Ours is made with vegan fats only. Extrait is the flower extract that was washed with alcohol from these fats. It is a true to life rendition of hyacinths, in a very light concentration, reminiscent of eau fraiche.

May be worn as a light scent whenever you want to tuck a Frangipanni behind your ear but can't reach the tree; or wish you could go on a summer vacation to a remote tropical island and adorn yourself with lays, but can't; may be also worn layered with other perfumes. 

Note that this is a seasonal product and varies from year to year. Very limited supply.  

Comes in a 10mL lab bottle with a spray nozzle for easy application. Please note this enfleurage is still in progress. We are now taking orders for the first of the season which will be ready by the end of July 2021. 

Free5!a is an ode to one of the most ephemeral flowers, that elludes distillation. It's green and peppery, yet soft and delicate perfume can be created with a lot of imagination and a pinch of stubbornness, and the purest ingredients chosen to create  an all-natural Freesia soliflore, sheer and bright as a raindrop on a flower stem, clear and free of pretence. 

Fragrance family: Soliflore

Free5!a was launched 23.03.2023

A whiff off the Western Galillee of Israel.

Box includes:
Galilee perfume sampler kit with: Aqua Akko, Ayalitta, Mt. Meron, Beach Lily, Zohar, Inbar.
Kyphi Galilee incense
Tree of Life Incense Cones (inspired by Kziv Creek)
Varthemia Tea (Black tea scented with sharp varthemia, wild white mint and wild three lobed sage.
Organic citrus marmalade (or another seasonal jam)
Elecampane herbal salve (for dry and chapped skin of hands, feet, elbow and knees)
Herbal Soap Bar with wild herbs from the Galilee

*Zarzo basket may be added to this package with an additional $35. 

Galilee Sampler Gift Set includes eight of our local-inspired fragrances: Aqua Akko, Mt. Meron, Aqua Pistachia, Beach Lily, Etrog, Finjan, Inbar and Zohar. 

Gourmand Sampler Set includes all of Ayala Moriel's food-inspired fragrances, featuring an overdose of delicious notes such as vanilla, cacao, coffee, licorice, honey, butter and more: Black Licorice, Cabaret, Film Noir, Finjan, Immortelle l’Amour, Roses et Chocolat, Sahleb, Zangvil.

This is not just a grin: it’s a green grin... Green grass, green flowers, a green world waking up in the spring. A reviving, fresh scent, composed of the finest flower essences: Bulgarian and Turkish Rose, Indian Jasmine and Tasmanian Boronia, which is reminiscent of freesia. Grin is elegant and refined yet playful and romantic – like stepping into a flower shop, rolling in the grass and sniffing a meadow full of flowers!

Top notes: Galbanum, Violet Leaves, Green Pepper

Heart notes: Boronia, Rose, Jasmine

Base notes: Vetiver, Oud, Oakmoss