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4711 Echt Kölnisch Wasser


4-711, originally uploaded by cool_colonia4711.

As mentioned earlier, the earliest alcohol based perfumes were the Aqua Mirabillis – the miracle water taken both internally and externally. The most famous of them all, even if not necessarily the best, is 4711 Echt Kölnisch Wasser.

The story
about how this perfume formula came to Muelhens’ (the founder of 4711) hands has become a cliché: in 1792, a Carthusian monk gave this formula of Aqua Mirabillis to Muelhen and his bride as a wedding gift, asking only that they will treat it with the regard it deserved. Muelhens did not underestimate its value, and founded a company to manufacture this formula, in the city of Koln (Cologne) in Germany. In 1796, when the city was occupied by the French, all the houses on the streets were numbered, and the house of Muelhens’ factory was numbered 4711. In 1875 this number was trademarked as the company’s name.

It is hard to say what is it that made the perfume so successful: whether if it clever marketing or a true genious of the fragrance itself, or, alternatively, a karmic blessing from the monk who created it. But all we know is that 4711 has become a staple in almost any household. My grandmother (born in Berlin, 1924) recalls her both her grandmother and mother using it. I also never heard her complain that the fragrance have changed. So perhaps there wasn’t any significant change in the formula, although I won’t be surprised if some synthetic fixatives have made it in. I wouldn’t drink it now, that’s for sure…


eau de cologne automat, originally uploaded by deedeee.

As for the scent itself – nowadays it seems neither particularly interesting nor original. It’s a simple, refreshing citrus cologne centered around neroli and petitgrain, which are the key notes here. It is cool and refreshing, with a hint of honeyed sweetness from the nerli, further accentuated by the sweetness of orange and bergamot top notes. Yet, it also has a distinctive astringent, dry and almost minty quality from the petitigrain and the herbal notes of rosemary and lavender. The base is mostly sandalwood and musk, which explains why I never took on to liking 4711 personally. Sandalwood smells terrible on my skin, particularly when paired with neroli. If your skin doesn’t suffer this bias, this would be probably the most valuable staple for hot summer months, as it is sold for very decent price and can be easily found almost in any drugstore, and in Germany you an even find these in an automatic vending machines! You can even still get the Eau de Cologne in those huge original vast of 800ml, where it definitely looks more like a drink than a toiletry. Salut!


07B_5506, originally uploaded by skintype.

Shalimar Revisited

Disclaimer: Best viewed at the theatre. Use a high volume to get it...



Some revelations need time to pass before they can be shared. Sometime this depends on how long it takes for someone to upload something into Youtube...

About a year ago I experienced synesthesia quite dramatically when I was sitting at the theatre and watching the opening of Spike Lee's brilliant (yet popular) thriller Inside Man*. As the Bollywood music rolled on, having nearly no connection at all to the opening credits, I started smelling Shalimar... The male singers' voice pouring around like melted ghee, sweet like honey syrup with rosewater over halwa and orgasmic drum beats.

I finally got the Indian connection to Shalimar. Forget about the fountains in Mumtaz Mahal's garden, or any other story they are trying to sell you... The sensuality of Shalimar's vanilla, roses and bergamot can be summed up into an Indian sweet and a Bollywood voice and ripples of silk-scarf dancing.

If you want to just listen to mohttp://www.blogger.com/img/gl.link.gifre of the music, again, take this (this is the Rap Joint version at the end of the film ):



Here is the translation of the song from Urdo to English according to BollyWHAT? (it has more to do with Shalimar than the plot of the film):

He whose head is in the shadow of love
will have heaven beneath his feet.
Whose head is in the shadow of love...
Walk in the shadow.
Walk in heaven, walk in the shadow.

There's a friend who is like a sweet fragrance,
whose words are like poetry (lit. Urdu, the language of poetry),
who is my evening, my night, my existence.
That friend is my beloved!

Sometimes (my beloved) flirts like a flower,
so fragrantly that you may see her scent.
Having made it into an charm, I will wear it.
She shall be obtained as a miracle is obtained.
She is my song, my declaration of faith

(My friend is like a priest to me.)
My song... my declaration of faith...
She moves like the dew.
She walks with the garden of heaven beneath her feet,
sometimes through the branches, sometimes amidst the leaves.
I shall search the wind for her trail!

I trade in her beauty.
Fickle, she flits shamelessly from sun to shade.
She changes her bright colors;
I negotiate that as well.



*The popularity of the movie, as well as some of the soundtrack, helped Spike Lee to make his piercingly (and depressingly) provocative When The Levees Broke.

Directory of Reviews by Notes

Absinthe
Biche dans l'Absinthe
 Fou d'Absinthe

Amber
Ambre Narguile
Anné Pliska
Au Delà
Burnt Amber
Obsession
Shalimar

Ambrette

Bois des Îles
No. 18

AniseApres l'Ondee l'Heure Bleue

Bergamot
Shalimar

Carrot
No. 19 - Warm Carrot


Castoreum
Cuir de Russie
Dzing!

Shalimar

Tabac Blond

Cassie
Dans tes Bras
Farnesiana
Une Fleur de Cassie
Cassis
Chamade
 l'Ombre Dans l'Eau

Cedar
Bois Farine
Feminite du Bois
 

Champaca
Champaca
Champaca Absolute 

Fairchild
My Vanilla 
Sira des Indes
Tango

Civet

Dzing!
Joy

Miss Dior
Narcisse Noir
No. 5
Tabu

ChypreChypre (Vintage)
Femme

Miss Dior

Le Parfum de Thérèse
Mitsouko

Cloves/Carnation
AsjaAqaba
En Avion
Fleur de Shanghai
Oeillet (Scent Systems)
Opium
TabuYouth Dew

Cocoa

Amour de Cacao
Blue Agava & Cacao

Cerise en Cocoa


Cumin
Femme

Kingdom

Fig

Fig Tea (Parfums de Nicolai)

Fig (Aftelier)
Wild Fig & Cassis (Jo Malone)

Figue Amere (Miller Harris)
Fig Apricot (Fresh)

Figue-Iris

Io Capri
Philosykos

Frangipani
Frangipanni Absolute
Songes

Freesia

Antonia's Flowers
Ofresia


Galbanum
Chamade
Diorissimo
No. 19
Ivoire
Miss Dior
Private Collection
Vent Vert
Vol de Nuit
Yohji

Gardenia
Fire Island
Manoumalia
Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia
Tiaré
Velvet Gardenia

Vintage Gardenia with Cardamom & Myrrh

 

Ginger
Un Crime Exotique


Grapefruit
Eau d'Hadrien
Grapefruit Cologne
Oyédo
 


Grass
Balmy Days and Sundays


Hawthorne

FlowerbyKenzo

Heliotrope

Dans tes Bras
Farnesiana
Habanita

l'Heure Bleue

Honey

Ambre Narguille
Asja

Feminite du Bois
l'Instant

Hyacinth
Chamade

Immortelle
Biche dans l'Absinthe
Sables

Incense
Parfum Sacré
Jasmine
Diorissimo
Joy

Le Parfum de Thérèse
Mitsouko
Songes


Jonquille
Vol de Nuit

Kewda
Manoumalia

Labdanum

 Kouros
Velvet Gardenia
 

Lavender
Amber & Lavender Cologne 
Brin de Réglisse
 Petit Guerlain

Leather
Bandit
Cuir Mauresque
Knize Ten
Cuir de Russie (Piver)
Cuir Amethyst
Cuir de Russie (Chanel)
Dzing!
Le Parfum de Thérèse
Shalimar
Tabac Blond
Tabarome
Tabarome (Vintage)

Lemon
Eau d'Hadrien
Eau Sauvage
 Le Parfum de Thérèse
 Le Petit Prince
Sugar

Licorice
Brin de Réglisse
Eau Reglisse
Lolita Lempika Au Masculine

Lilac
After My Own Heart
En Passant
Mystic Lilac

Lily
Lys Méditerranée

Lily of the Valley
Diorissimo
Frangipanni Absolute

Lotus
Waterflower (Liz Zorn)
 

Magnolia
Fleur de Shanghai
l'Instant
Tocade

Mastic
Grand AmourKyoto

Melon
Le Parfum de Thérèse
Spring Flower

Mimosa
Farnesiana
Mimosa Concreta
Mimosa pour Moi
Mimosaique
Petit Guerlain
Une Fleur de Cassie

Mineral
Dans tes Bras
Deseo
Pure Turquoise
Terre d'Hermes

Mint
Balmy Days and Sundays
Mintea
 

Musk
Al Mesk Abyad (White Musk) - Arabian Oil
Al Mes Aswad (Black Musk) - Arabian Oil
l'Antimatiere
Dans tes Bras
FlowerbyKenzo
Lovely Liquid Satin
Musc Ravageur
Muscs Kublai Khan
Narciso Rodriguez
Ta'if

Myrrh
Fleur de Shanghai
Opium
Parfum Sacré
Vintage Gardenia with Cardamom & Myrrh

Narcissus

Youth Dew

Neroli
4711 Echt Kölnisch Wasser

Oakmoss

Chamade
Miss Dior Vol de Nuit

Opoponax
En Avion
Opium
Shalimar

Orange Blossom

Fleurs d'Oranger
 Lys Méditerranée
Narciso Rodriguez
Orange Blossom CologneOrchid
Private Collection
Vent Vert

Orris

Apres l'Ondee
Bois Farine
Figue-Iris
Hiris
Shalimar
The Unicorn Spell
No. 19
No. 19 - Warm Carrot

Osmanthus
1000
Cerise en Cocoa
Femme

Osmanthe Yunnan
Osmanthus (Keiko Mecheri)

Osmanthus (Ormonde Jayne)

Osmanthus Red
Osmanthus Oolong
Petalum 
Saveur de l'Abricot
Un Crime Exotique

Vetiver (Lorenzo Villoresi)

Ozone/Oceanic/Water etc.
En Passant l'Eau d'Issey

Patchouli

Aromatics Elixir

Miss Dior

Patchouli (Jalaine)
Patchouli (Lorenzo Villoresi)
Patchouli (Mazzolari)
Patchouli Antique
Patchouli Magique
Tabu
Youth Dew



Pepper

Let Me Play The Lion
Parfum Sacré
Poivre Samarkand


Pineapple
Ananas Fizz
Vanilla Pineapple

Raspberry

Habanita
Ivoire


Rose
Black Rose (Vintage)
Cerise en Cocoa
Ivoire

l'Ombre Dans l'Eau

Lipstick Rose
N'Aimez Que Mois
Nuit de NoelParfum Sacré
Paris

Spring Flower
Poussiere de Rose

Rose (Scent Systems)

Rose IkebanaTa'if
Rose Praline
Tocade


Sage

Aromatics Elixir
Oeillet
(Scent Systems)

Vol de Nuit
Sandalwood
Bois des Îles
Cocoa Sandalwood
Égoïste
Tam Dao

Smoke, Tar, etc.Bvlgari Black
Tea for Two

Tea

Osmanthe Yunnan
Eau Parfumee Au The Blanc

Eau Parfumee Au The Rouge
Eau Parfumee Au The Vert

Tonka Bean
Vetiver Tonka Vol de Nuit

Tuberose
Fracas
Manoumalia
Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia
Noix de Tubereuse

Vanilla
Habanita
My Vanilla 
Shalimar
Ta'if

Vetiver
Agent Provocateur
Black Vetyver Café
Mitsouko 
No. 5
No. 19
Pure Turquoise
Sel de Vetiver
Spiced Citrus Vetiver 
Sycomore
Turtle Vetiver
Vetiver (Lorenzo Villoresi)
Vetiver (Guerlain)
Vetiver 46
Vetiver Extraordinaire
Vetiver Oriental
Vetiver Tonka

Violet
Apres l'Ondee Dans tes Bras
En Avion
l'Heure Bleue
N'Aimez Que Mois Paris
Verte Violette
 Ylang Ylang
Chamade
Eau d'Hadrien
Samsara
 No. 5
Private Collection Amber Ylang
Songes

Yuzu
Oyédo

Chamade


I Surrender, originally uploaded by Ana Santos.


Chamade. A perfume like no other. Green. Fruity. Floral. Aldehydic. Mossy. Balsamic.
When I first read about it in the Guerlain pamphlet I received at The Bay, I did not expect to like it at all because it was described as an aldehydic floral. But to sum it up as belonging to one category or another would be missing the whole point: Chamade is Chamade. You must enjoy it for what it is rather than attempt to classify and categorize it. This would be likened to locking a beautiful songbird in a cage, or a free spirited woman in a house and tell her what to wear, eat or do. If you love Chamade you should know better than that!

Yet, the magic of Chamade is not so much in the fact that it is so versatile, but rather, in the unusual assembly of notes that are so different, yet harmonize perfectly with one another. Notes that seemingly contradict each other so much you wouldn’t think they’ll get along at all: the briskness of galbanum and the caramely sweetness of vanilla; the fruitiness of black currant buds and the acrid oakmoss; Not to mention the florals and aldehydes in between which on the paper create an unresolved olfactory mess.

Yet in the Cupid’s arrow-stricken reversed heart bottle, these elements form a balanced tension that leads from the briskness of galbanum and fruity sharpness of cassis to an oily-urinal aldehydes combines with the above mentioned berries. Creamy and hot, pulsating floral notes of ylang ylang mingle with the powdery, green yet sweet hyacinth creating an impression of a flower warmed in a sunny spring garden. And this all leads to a base that is first mossy, slightly acrid-bitter-dry-woody of sandalwood and oakmoss. Hourse later, the magical vanilla that only the dynasty of Guerlain could use so appropriately without making it seem banal or overdone. The same vanilla of Shalimar parfum – dark, resinous-sweet and sexy in the most intimate, close-to-the-skin tastefulness of the classic parfum extrait of this house.

I’ve been fortunate to wear Chamade in a few concentrations and vintages: vintage EDT from the generous Char (I won a contest, can you believe it?), a Parfum Extrait from eBay, in a pristine 30ml sealed bottle; and of course, a brand new EDT, which is delicious and quite true to the original I think (though this will probably change any minute because of the strict oakmoss regulations in the EU and by IFRA). The new Chamade of course smells fresher, and the top notes are more apparent. It shows its vanillic face faster than the vintage I would say. Yet I can still feel the same Chamadeness beating in there. The vintage EDT is fantastic, the top notes are less pronounced, but you can still feel them, and overall the perfume feels much softer, rounder, and goes form phase to phase seamlessly. The powderiness of the aldehydes and ylang ylang is more pronounced, and there is also a bit of a note that I can only liken to the Mousse de Saxe of Caron, or otherwise to Peru Balsam essential oil (rather than the balsam itself). The parfum extrait is a completely different story altogether. It has such pronounced notes of rose and jasmine (and wow! what a jasmine!) that is barely resembles what I learned to know as Chamade from the other two versions. There is some of the galbanum though, but hardly any cassis (if at all) or ylang ylang at first. Which makes me think, it was probably reformulated after all, though I will not be able to give you any dates. The reformulation primarily seems to be downplaying the rose and jasmine to insusceptible quantities and replacing them mostly by the more cost-effective ylang ylang (probably from Guerlain's own plantations; I wonder in which year they got these...).


Top notes: Galbanum, Black Currant Buds, Aldehydes

Heart notes: Ylang Ylang, Hyacinth

Base notes: Oakmoss, Vanilla, Sandalwood


A few words about the timing for this perfume: designed by Jean-Paul Guerlain, the last in the line of the Guerlain heritage of exemplary high-class perfumery (which lasted for almost two decades and was brutally interrupted only in recent years by globalization and greed). The timeless beauty of Chamade only got to show you that Jean-Paul did not lack inspiration before LVMH got into the picture (rather, stole the picture) and perhaps than it was finances that designed the fragrances more than its own talented nose. Chamade was launched in 1969, marking the beginning of the 70's, which in the perfume world was significantly characterized by the emergance of soapy and green compositions, such as No. 19, Private Collection, Silences, Ivoire, Diorella, and very much influenced AnaisAnais which launched almost a decade later, as well as the much later excellent celebrity perfume Deneuve by Catherine Deneuve.
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