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Interesting Read: Interview with Ineke Ruhland

Visit Basenotes to read an interesting interview with San-Franciscan/Canadian perfumer Ineke Ruhland. Ineke is about to launch her new perfume, Evening Edged in Gold, thus adding the letter "E" to her fragrant abecedary anthology...

While still inspired mostly by her garden (this time the flowers of Angel's Trumpet and Midnight Candy), Evening Edged in Gold is meant to be a heavier and sweeter scent than the spring/summery breeze of the rest of the collection - with notes of Golden Osmanthus, Plum, Angel's Trumpet and Midnight Candy and a base of Saffron, Leather and Woods.

Ineke talks about her inspiration, about her perfumery school, and also raises the question - which perfumes are better, the modern ones or the perfumes of yesteryear? Here is a quote:

"Many perfumers cite travels as their main inspiration, but that doesn’t tend to work for me in a direct sense. When I visit a new city, the first things I tend to see are the botanical garden and modern art museum, so perhaps it does work in an indirect sense. I’m also not big on food inspirations, or using historical perfume references. At ISIPCA, we had the historical collection of the Osmothèque stored in the basement and were constantly smelling the classics, but I always had a hard time getting past the density of older compositions, not to mention the prevalent use of civet! I’m not very sentimental about the past, tending to be rooted in the present in terms of my fragrance preferences. I actually think that perfumers today are much more talented and technically proficient than perfumers of the past, and I’m very grateful that we have a multiplicity of raw materials available to us that didn’t even exist fifty years ago."

I would be very much interested to hear what Smellyblog readers have to say about this. Feel free to share your insights by adding a comment.

Tirzah: New Linden Blossom Soliflore

Ayala Moriel is proud to announce the launch for our new summery soliflore: Tirzah.
Tirzah is Hebrew for Linden, and the name for the newest addition to my soliflore collection - a linden blossom soliflore! The sweet and tart elegance of linden blossom is at the heart of this light and refreshing summery fragrance.

The timing for the launch of Tirzah couldn’t be better: linden blossoms are in full bloom throughout the month of June, emanating their delicate, honey-like aroma in the air. And what more - Tirzah is particularly suitable for a heat wave, with its top notes of green lemon zest and the cucumber-like mimosa, chilling heart notes of iris roots and a clean woody base of Fokienia with a hint of hay.



Tirzah has a deep green coloured juice and comes in parfum extrait (alcohol base) only. As linden blossom seems to be the favourite of only select few, Tirzah will be only a limited edition for now. It will remain part of the collection only for this summer. If it proves to be exceedingly popular, we will add it to our regular collection. Otherwise, we’ll just bring it in again next summer…

Top notes: Green Lemon, Mimosa, Elemi, Frangipani Absolute
Heart notes: Linden Blossom, Guiacwood, Iris Roots
Base notes: Fokienia (Siamwood), Hay Absolute, Ambrette Seeds


Illustration: Rusalka by Konstantin Vasiliev
(If you're wondering why I picked this image - it best portrays the scent visually in my opinion, just like hiding from the heat of sun among the cool shady trees by the river; and also it has trees from the linden family all over it)

Scene from
Die Trapp-Familie (1956)
The Von Trapps are singing Der Lindenbaum by Schubert, a beautiful Lied about a linden tree, from "Der Winterriser" (D911) Lieder Cycle. It is originally for piano and voice, but I love this a-capela interpretation with the beautiful, innocent children's voice. It really reminds me of the delicate scent of linden...
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