s

SmellyBlog

Isolate Quiz Winner

Thank you to everyone who tried their hand at the isolates quiz this week! You all did a pretty good research job - I'm impressed :-)
Here are the questions again - plus the correct answers:

1) What is the name of the molecule that gives spearmint its characteristic scent?
Spearmint has many components in it, but the most characteristic is l-carvone. The "l" is short for laevo-carvone, or levorotary, which means "left handed" - as the propyl radical C3H5 points to the left. In d-carvone, the right-handed (dextorotary) propyl radical creates the characteristic scent of dill or is a little similar to caraway. The formula for both molecules is C10H14O, but their structure is different, resulting in two very distinctive smells.

2) What's the common isolate for these three oils: Hay Lime and Tonka Bean?
Coumarin. Yes, lime is an unusual citrus in that it contains coumarin!

3) What isolate is used to produce the drug Ecstasy?
No one got this one. You all guessed safrole, which is often the start material for heliotropin - which is the correct answer for this question. Also known as piperonal (whose micromagnetic photo was used to illustrate that post), heliotropin requires special licensing when purchased in the USA. It smells like almonds and vanilla, or cherry pie, and very similar to the beautiful scent of the flower heliotrope. More about the flower at another time!

4) What's a characteristic molecule that's common to orange blossom, tuberose and ylang ylang?
Methyl anthranilate. This ester smells like concord grapes with hints of wintergreen, and is responsible for the sweet-fruity, slightly medicinal aspect of these essences. It's also present in jasmine, but I did not want to mention jasmine as to not confuse you with indole. Indole, by the way, is not present in ylang ylang or tuberose. What gives ylang ylang its characteristic animal scent is another molecule altogether, called paracresyl methyl ether.

5) What does citral smell like? And what plant(s) essential oil(s) has/have the highest citral content?
I made this one too easy for you. I was going to select Geraniol, but knew it would be too confusing. So yes, most of you got this correctly. Citral is a characteristic smell of lemon, although most of lemon is just limonene (generic lemon-orange scent). It's the citral that gives it the sweet "lemon drop" aspect, which is even furthermore pronounced in Litsea Cubeba and Lemon Myrtle. It's also present in large amounts in citronella, lemon eucalyptus, lemongrass, lemon verbena, lemon balms and others - but it is very easily recognizable and dominant in Litsea Cubeba aka May Chang, and in Lemon Myrtle, where it comprises more than 90% of the oil.
Citral is of significance, because it is the starting point of many other natural compounds that would have been very expensive to produce or isolate directly from the plant. For example: alpha ionone, which smells nothing like citral - but has the warm-woody scent of candied violets!

Because many of those who answered correctly have already won more than once on SmellyBlog, the winner was not randomly selected this time, but hand-picked by the editor. Congratulations to BridgetTheodore - you won a bottle of Go Ask Alice by En Voyage Perfumes! Please contact me via email - ayala (at) ayalamoriel.com with your mailing address to claim your prize.

Monkey Monday: Curious Isolates


I'm currently reading Shelley Waddington's book "Perfuming with Natural Isolates" - which I highly recommend to anyone who's interested in broadening their knowledge of the natural raw materials and understanding the depth of their chemical makep; and for those wishing to include natural isolates for special effects in a perfume composition while keeping their commitment to using solely natural raw materials.

The world of chemistry is fascinating and vast, and it's exciting to always make new discoveries - big or small - about the characteristics of the fragrant raw materials I work with on a regular basis. Smelling the isolates on their own sheds new light on subject, and brings forth aspects that were before either vague, subtle or completely hidden from my nose. Truly incredible learning curve.

There are also some curious facts about isolates, so we'll dedicate today's Monkey Monday giveaway for you to answer correctly the following five isolate-related questions:
1) What is the name of the molecule that gives spearmint its characteristic scent?
2) What's the common isolate for these three oils: Hay Lime and Tonka Bean?
3) What isolate is used to produce the drug Ecstasy?
4) What's a characteristic molecule that's common to orange blossom, tuberose and ylang ylang?
5) What does citral smell like? And what plant(s) essential oil(s) has/have the highest citral content?

Answer as many as you can to increase your chance to win (you will be entered the number of times you answer correctly, so even if you know only one answer, you will get entered).
Among those who answer correctly, there will be a lucky draw on Friday at noon to win a 1/4oz bottle of Go Ask Alice - an all natural perfume from En Voyage Perfumes.

California Stats + Winner Results

California stats by Ayala Moriel
California stats, a photo by Ayala Moriel on Flickr.

Monkey Monday results are finally out! The most favourite oils that were used in my California classes are:
Red Mandarin, Sandalwood, Sweet Orange
Least popular: Lavender Oil & Absolute, Galbanum
Most loved floral: Neroli

The winners are:
A few of you guessed sandalwood as a popular note, so I had to do a lucky draw. Bellatrix is the one who gets the first package of essential oils samples.

LL Graham - who guessed one correct "unpopular" note - Galbanum - will receive a second collection of essential oil samples.

Princess Ellie - who guessed the correct floral - Neroli - will receive a mini of Cabaret.

Happy weekend!

Monkey Monday: Californian's Favourite Oils?

This weekend, with no further excuses, I had to finally unpack all the oils that were wrapped in electric tapes, ziplocs and bubble wraps and put them back on my perfumers' organ for my students. It was my first class at the studio since May before my schedule filled up with packing and airports and trains and other adventures...

As I was going through the bottles, I had to make note of the "damage" - half a bottle of spilled galbanum oil was the only spillage. Thank goodness I triple-wrapped this potent green sharp note! It nearly took over the suitcase and I was delaying my response, which kinda got too used to a very aromatic suitcase, this being my 3rd trip with this "kit".

So, for this week's Monkey Monday, I figured I will ask you to make a guess of the 3 oils that were most popular with my California students. This is, of course, completely based on the content of the bottles (or the lack of it...). Three bottles ran out completely, and the person who guesses these three correctly will receive some samples of beautiful aromatics from Eden Botanicals.

The 38 essences are (in alphabetical order):
Atlas Cedarwood, Bergamot, Black Pepper, Cinnamon Leaf, Cistus, Clary Sage, Clary Sage Absolute, Clove Bud Oil, Fir Absolute, Frankincense, Galbanum, Geranium, Ginger CO2, Jasmine Absolute, Juniper Berry, Labdanum, Lavender Absolute, Lavender Oil, Lemon, Lemongrass, Litsea Cubeba, Myrrh, Neroli, Oakmoass Absolute, Orange Blossom Absolute, Patchouli, Red Mandarin, Roman Chamomile, Rose Absolute, Rosemary Absolute, Sage, Sambac Absolute, Sandalwood, Sweet Orange, Vanilla Absolute, Vetiver, Virginia Cedarwood, White Grapefruit, Ylang Ylang

Bonus: If you want to make more speculations - guess the 3 least favourite of them all, you will also receive a little sample pack of aromatics to play with.

Extra bonus: If you are feeling even more ambitious - what was the most popular floral note? I'm still thinking what the prize for this might be... How about a surprize?!

Monkey Monday Winner (Smelly Commute)

Thank you to everyone who participated in the Monkey Monday Smelly Commute contest of the week. You all did a great job guessing (Exotic Green Tea - how many cups of green tea did Elizabeth Arden have to brew before realized the tea bag run out of flavour?!), CK Summer (one among many CK flankers, that I cannot possibly keep track of), Hugo Woman and JOOP!

But the correct answer, which was Lindaloo's (also the first commenter - are you a mind reader?!), is Allure Sensuelle (2006) - the flanker to Allure (1996), a rather flat, linear and colourless floriental that they tried to make more raspy and throaty by marrying it with their accidental best-selling flanker Coco Mademoiselle (to Coco).

But two flankers do not a masterpiece make (or even a bestseller). Allure Sensuelle, I regret to say, was rather disappointing to me even though it had a lot of promise at the time. The patchouli and vanilla base sure were refreshing when fruity gourmand florals were still at their height (if they are ever going to not be, we'll all be better off). It had that rancid aquatic fruity top note (supposedly melon or lychee or both) that really works bad with patchouli and vetiver, but seems to be the mark of sophistication for perfume users who don't know any better (yet).

And now I will stop my rare anti-perfume rant and ask Lindaloo to send me your snail mail addy so I can send you a package of samples from the SF Sniff and 1st Artisan Fragrance Salon. I hope you will find something to your liking among these artisan perfumers' creations!
Back to the top