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SmellyBlog

Full List of 2013 Indie FiFi Awards Nominees

The Fragrance Foundation has announced the full list of nominees for the 2013 Indie FiFi Awards:
Amber Oud by Kilian       
Boutonnière No. 7 - ARQUISTE Parfumeur          
Bowmakers by D.S. & Durga       
Broderie by Hayari - Paris          
"Calling All Angels" April Aromatics        
CUIRELLE - Ramon Monegal Barcelona        
Eau de Flog, Opus Oils         
EAU MONUMENTALE by THIRDMAN          
Edward Bess "Eau La La"          
Glam Monster  by Donato Style LLC
INEKE HOTHOUSE FLOWER
Intimacy eau de parfum  by JoAnne Bassett
LADY DAY by Maria Candida GENTILE 
LE CHERCHE MIDI NO. 30 EAU D’HIVER
"Le Smoking" for Denver Art Museum by  DSH Perfumes
Lightscape Ulrich Lang New York 
Meadow & Fir - Phoenix Botanicals  
Moss Gown - Providence Perfume Co.      
Purusa Root by Sebastian Signs        
Qajar Rose - Lalun Naturals, Inc.         
RAW SPIRIT "Firetree" Fragrance Oil by World Senses Pty Ltd.
Rima XI - Carner Barcelona    
Rodin , L. Rodin, LLC by  Rodin Olio Lusso
SPEAKEASY by P. Frapin & Cie  
Strawberry Passion by Skye Botanicals    
TERRASSE A ST-GERMAIN, JUL ET MAD  
TRAYEE, NEELA VERMEIRE CREATION   
Treazon by Ayala Moriel Parfums    
WILD ROSES BY AFTELIER PERFUMES   
WOODY by smell bent   

The winner of the “Indie” FiFi Award will be announced at the “Indie” FiFi ceremony to be held at Elements Showcase in New York city on Monday, Jan 28 at 7pm.

Good luck to all the nominees. There are more than a handful of talented perfumers who I know in person I consider colleague and friends and I'm really hopeful that one of them will win! Wouldn't it be refreshing if someone who actually designs and/or makes their perfumes by hand will be one of the top 5 winners. It will be a stepping stone for independent and artisan perfumery.

The Art of the Broth

Yesterday I made an udon soup for the first time. An Asian pear & roasted butternut squash udon, to be exact. I'm not a fan of noodle soupls in general. But udon noodles in particular strike me as over-the-top thick and awkward. So this was very adventurous for me!

The starting point was seasonal, locally grown ingredients that I wanted to use up in a fresh way. I was tired of resorting to my old ways of cooking: shiitake mushrooms (not a stir-fry again!), butternut squash, which I love roasted but wanted to see if they'll work with these particular mushrooms (they go smashingly well with portobello mushrooms). I also had a wackload of Asian pears which I was considering using in a salad again (a regular favourite on our table since last fall).

Short search in two recently found and very resourceful vegetarian cookbooks - Plenty and rebar - was a proof that the latter is the ideal choice when cooking seasonal is the guideline, and a further proof that sustainable nourishment can be exotic indeed. The particular recipe of choice included mostly ingredients that I found at the farmer's market that weekend (except for the scallions, condiments and the added deep fried tofu).

At this point, you might be asking yourself - why are there so many recipes on this blog? Isn't it a perfume blog? Or a perfumers' blog? Well, it is. I just happen to be very interested in cooking. And I also am very passionate about eating well, supporting local agriculture and sustainable business practices. All of the above have been and will continue to be core values of how I run my business and try to live my life. But aside from that, I'm finding more and more correlations between perfuming and creating in the culinary medium. Which means that everyone in my home or who comes through it is getting really spoiled with all my baking and cooking experiments...

This winter I've decided to make my own broth rather than contributing to landfills with cartons of emptied organic vegetable broth. Besides the earth-concious benefits, it also makes the house smell incredibly welcoming and cozy while undergoing an extended simmer.

Creating a broth, in particular, seems like constructing a perfume. There are layers upon layers of flavours that are essential for creating depth, character and a backbone or foundation for other delicious dishes - soups, stews and, of course - risotto! Since I only use vegetables, it's very important that the broth has certain materials in it. What most seem to miss in vegetarian cooking is that mysterious depth that so many find lacking in vegetarian dishes. The secret to that is using dried mushrooms. I find that give it that umami flavour and meaty depth. And paired with the right spices or herbs, it can border on perfection. You might just never look back at boiling bones if you try my recipe for the ultimate vegetable broth (I promise I will post it next week).

The challenge with this soup was not so much the broth, which I was making anyway for a number of other "projects". It was the seaweed. I found it to be way too fishy for me in this context and had to add the cinnamon to balance the flavours out. You might want to try it without seaweed and see how you like it. There is no shortage of depth without it, even if you're using plain water rather than pre-made vegetable broth.

So here's my recipe (adapted from rebar modern food cookbook's udon & ginger squash with miso-shiitake broth), page 178). This should be sufficient to feed 2 very hungry adults as a meal-in-a-bowl all on its own; or 4 with lesser appetite or as a starter dish:

Broth & Soup
handful of wakame seaweed
12gr dried sliced shiitake mushrooms
6 cups of water or vegetable stock
2 Tbs tamari or soy sauce
2 Tbs mirin (sweet rice vinegar - use apple cider vinegar in a pinch)
2 Tbs sake (use white wine in a pinch)
2 Tbs fresh ginger root, peeled and minced very finely (reserve 1 Tbs for the roasted squash - see below)
2 whole star anise
1 piece of sweet cassia bark
1 Asian pear, sliced
2 handful of greens of your choice (i.e.: collard greens, spinach, bok choy, gai-lan, watercress, etc.) rinsed and drained, cut or torn into large pieces if necessary. 
1 cup whole baby shiitake mushrooms (or 8 large ones, sliced)
- Cover the mushrooms, cassia bark, star anise and seaweed with the water or broth, and cook on low heat for an hour, keeping it just under simmering.

- Add the ginger, tamari, sake, mirin and miso. Stir well.
- Add the the fresh shiitake mushrooms and cook until thoroughly warmed
- Add the sliced Asian pears and greens, and cook just until the greens are wilted but are still a bright, vivid colour.
- Remove from heat without the lid.

Meanwhile, prepare the Roasted Ginger Squash:1 butternut squash, halved and sliced, with the seeds removed.
2 Tbs grapeseed oil (or other non-GMO vegetable oil)
1 Tbs minced fresh ginger root
1/4 tsp Maldon sea salt flakes
- Roast in the oven at 400F for 20-30 minutes, until golden-brown or crispy. This is a more healthful and easy to prepare alternative to tempura. The roasted minced ginger adds a nice crunch!


To assemble the soup:
2 packs of fresh or frozen udon noodles (cook according to the package).
1 package deep-fried tofu (rinse under hot water to release excess fats). 
2-4 scallions, very thinly sliced
dark sesame oil, to taste
- Place noodles and tofu at the bottom of each serving bowl. Pour broth over, and place vegetables neatly on top, making sure that each bowl gets an equal amounts of each vegetable (or fruit!).
- Place slices of roasted butternut squash on top.
- Garnish with sliced scallions and a drizzle of dark sesame oil.

Enjoy!

Related links:
Cooking for one
Broke Bites

The Art of the Broth

Yesterday I made an udon soup for the first time. An Asian pear & roasted butternut squash udon, to be exact. I'm not a fan of noodle soupls in general. But udon noodles in particular strike me as over-the-top thick and awkward. So this was very adventurous for me!

The starting point was seasonal, locally grown ingredients that I wanted to use up in a fresh way. I was tired of resorting to my old ways of cooking: shiitake mushrooms (not a stir-fry again!), butternut squash, which I love roasted but wanted to see if they'll work with these particular mushrooms (they go smashingly well with portobello mushrooms). I also had a wackload of Asian pears which I was considering using in a salad again (a regular favourite on our table since last fall).

Short search in two recently found and very resourceful vegetarian cookbooks - Plenty and rebar - was a proof that the latter is the ideal choice when cooking seasonal is the guideline, and a further proof that sustainable nourishment can be exotic indeed. The particular recipe of choice included mostly ingredients that I found at the farmer's market that weekend (except for the scallions, condiments and the added deep fried tofu).

At this point, you might be asking yourself - why are there so many recipes on this blog? Isn't it a perfume blog? Or a perfumers' blog? Well, it is. I just happen to be very interested in cooking. And I also am very passionate about eating well, supporting local agriculture and sustainable business practices. All of the above have been and will continue to be core values of how I run my business and try to live my life. But aside from that, I'm finding more and more correlations between perfuming and creating in the culinary medium. Which means that everyone in my home or who comes through it is getting really spoiled with all my baking and cooking experiments...

This winter I've decided to make my own broth rather than contributing to landfills with cartons of emptied organic vegetable broth. Besides the earth-concious benefits, it also makes the house smell incredibly welcoming and cozy while undergoing an extended simmer.

Creating a broth, in particular, seems like constructing a perfume. There are layers upon layers of flavours that are essential for creating depth, character and a backbone or foundation for other delicious dishes - soups, stews and, of course - risotto! Since I only use vegetables, it's very important that the broth has certain materials in it. What most seem to miss in vegetarian cooking is that mysterious depth that so many find lacking in vegetarian dishes. The secret to that is using dried mushrooms. I find that give it that umami flavour and meaty depth. And paired with the right spices or herbs, it can border on perfection. You might just never look back at boiling bones if you try my recipe for the ultimate vegetable broth (I promise I will post it next week).

The challenge with this soup was not so much the broth, which I was making anyway for a number of other "projects". It was the seaweed. I found it to be way too fishy for me in this context and had to add the cinnamon to balance the flavours out. You might want to try it without seaweed and see how you like it. There is no shortage of depth without it, even if you're using plain water rather than pre-made vegetable broth.

So here's my recipe (adapted from rebar modern food cookbook's udon & ginger squash with miso-shiitake broth), page 178). This should be sufficient to feed 2 very hungry adults as a meal-in-a-bowl all on its own; or 4 with lesser appetite or as a starter dish:

Broth & Soup
handful of wakame seaweed
12gr dried sliced shiitake mushrooms
6 cups of water or vegetable stock
2 Tbs tamari or soy sauce
2 Tbs mirin (sweet rice vinegar - use apple cider vinegar in a pinch)
2 Tbs sake (use white wine in a pinch)
2 Tbs fresh ginger root, peeled and minced very finely (reserve 1 Tbs for the roasted squash - see below)
2 whole star anise
1 piece of sweet cassia bark
1 Asian pear, sliced
2 handful of greens of your choice (i.e.: collard greens, spinach, bok choy, gai-lan, watercress, etc.) rinsed and drained, cut or torn into large pieces if necessary. 
1 cup whole baby shiitake mushrooms (or 8 large ones, sliced)
- Cover the mushrooms, cassia bark, star anise and seaweed with the water or broth, and cook on low heat for an hour, keeping it just under simmering.

- Add the ginger, tamari, sake, mirin and miso. Stir well.
- Add the the fresh shiitake mushrooms and cook until thoroughly warmed
- Add the sliced Asian pears and greens, and cook just until the greens are wilted but are still a bright, vivid colour.
- Remove from heat without the lid.

Meanwhile, prepare the Roasted Ginger Squash:1 butternut squash, halved and sliced, with the seeds removed.
2 Tbs grapeseed oil (or other non-GMO vegetable oil)
1 Tbs minced fresh ginger root
1/4 tsp Maldon sea salt flakes
- Roast in the oven at 400F for 20-30 minutes, until golden-brown or crispy. This is a more healthful and easy to prepare alternative to tempura. The roasted minced ginger adds a nice crunch!


To assemble the soup:
2 packs of fresh or frozen udon noodles (cook according to the package).
1 package deep-fried tofu (rinse under hot water to release excess fats). 
2-4 scallions, very thinly sliced
dark sesame oil, to taste
- Place noodles and tofu at the bottom of each serving bowl. Pour broth over, and place vegetables neatly on top, making sure that each bowl gets an equal amounts of each vegetable (or fruit!).
- Place slices of roasted butternut squash on top.
- Garnish with sliced scallions and a drizzle of dark sesame oil.

Enjoy!

Related links:
Cooking for one
Broke Bites

Monkey Monday: Living Through The Nose

My vanilla bean jar broke, and so I had to find another jar... While transferring the bundle of moist beans, their robust aroma clung to my fingers. For hours, I could smell a rich, balsamic, slightly woodsy scent emanating from my fingers. Vanilla is a unique aroma in that it purely positive, always recalling grandma's baking and similar homely comforts and overall goodness. It's hard to think of a way to kill vanilla for me, definitely not the pure extract or whole vanilla beans. But as I was living with vanilla on my palms for nearly a day - I could also smell a hint of what I found disturbingly reminiscent of indole: That substance which is more commonly associated with ripe bodies, human feces and (more positively) jasmine and other heady white flowers.

Idole naturally occurs in a number of things, ranging from bonito flakes, butter, fish, egg, malt, tobacco and rum to white flowers such as jasmine, narcissus and ylang ylang. I'm still not finding much literature suggesting it occurs in vanilla (save for one place that suggests using it in vanilla flavouring) but that's what my nose tells me. 

The disturbing discovery that the eternally comforting scent of vanilla, that single scent with no negative association, might actually contain the controversially-scented molecule of indole made me realize how much I have grown to literally live through my nose. I assess - and immediately cast judgement - on anything I encounter in my life based on scent alone. And this is not restricted to food and beverages alone: I sniff out anything and anywhere, as long as I can breathe in it: dwellings and living spaces, banks, clinics, street corners, corner stores, pharmacies - you name it. I've always been that way, tending to visit friends more often if I like the scent of their home... And I could literally smell danger in my house - i.e. the mood change of my family members - just by smell alone.

After making perfumery my profession - this has become even "worse" of course. I notice every detail when it comes to scents and smells around me, which I personally enjoy most of the time. But sometimes I wonder if it might come across as obsessive or irrational to the "normal" people around me...

The other side effect of being very scent-concious is that a lot of "nice" commercial scents that I used to like or at least enjoy getting a whiff of are losing their mystique once I become acquainted with some of the modern day molecules that dominant them. Scents can seem a lot more alluring when you don't actually know what's in them... On the other hand, my appreciation of more subtle (and more often than never - the purely natural) goodies from tea and wine to fine fragrances has increased ten fold since I began strolling this path. I can now enjoy the muskiness of ambretolide that's whispering through scents containing ambrette seed essences - including some of the more subtle of my own creations (i.e.: Kinmokusei), which now I can enjoy their complexities much more than before. The ionones, which before were only a guess of what they were and how they behaved are revealing more of their beauty to me, including in some of my favourite oolong teas. I can sense the bracing spiciness of clove's eugenol peaking through the innocent looking ylang ylang. And, apparently, I can discover indole in my kitchen.

Have you experienced a heightened awareness related to the sense of smell in daily life that was surprising, disturbing, mind-opening or just plain delightful? How does the sense of smell change your daily life?

Post a comment and enter to win a decant of the ambrette-seed laden No. 18 by Chanel (part of their Les Exclusifs collection).
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