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SmellyBlog

Persian Lily

Lily by Fahad Ali Shahid
Lily, a photo by Fahad Ali Shahid on Flickr.

I’ve decided to wear Persica today on the notion that this might be just what a the Persian queen Vashti would try on when she refused to dance naked in front of Achashverosh’s guests.

The premise of finding Perisan white lilac in here was soon forgotten, as the perfume’s airy rosewood and sweet vanilla were overcome by indolic jasmine lurking in the background. Warm cardamom makes its presence very clear from the beginning, giving mystery and intrigue, and the ylang ylang is very quiet but works its silent alchemy on the skin. It soon becomes more of a jasmine and vanilla perfume, before it takes its final alchemical transformation into a Madonna lily in full bloom. Naturally, the salycilic notes are far more muted and palatable than any other commercial lily would have ever been able to do. If you liked the vanilla and lily contrast in Vanille Galante, this would be a wonderful all-natural alternative.

Top notes: Rosewood, Cardamom
Heart notes: Ylang Ylang, Jasmine, Sambac
Base notes: Vanilla Absolute

Urban Lily


Day 374: Lily of the Valley, originally uploaded by amanky.

Many great perfumers have attempted to re-create the scent of Lily of the Valley, a modest looking white flower that in fact does not belong to the lily family at all. Unlike the showy flowers of the true lily, Lily of the Valley bows to her own green leaves with its little bells of white, as if to conceal itself from sight even further.

For those looking for a Lily of the Valley perfume, I will share that my search came to end an before it even began – one of the first perfumes I’ve ever worn is Diorissimo by Edmond Roudnitska. I did not know what lily of the valley is or how it smells, but this perfume captured my heart on first sniff. In my mind, there is yet a lily of the valley perfume that comes even close to it’s precise and haunting beauty. Like the gowns from the couturier it was created for, its strict structure creates an illusion of freedom and eternity.

But just because I have already found a Lily of the Valley to my heart’s desire does not stop me from curiously trying other attempts, the latest one being Urban Lily by Strange Invisible perfumes. The perfumer here had the added challenge of not being able to use any of the essential molecules for replicating this unique scent for replicating this unique scent. Instead, perfumer Alexandra Balahoutis uses the sharp greenness of galbanum and the raw-earthy carrot-seed & iris notes to create that crystal-clear charm of the lily bells, and underlines it with sultry notes of narcissus, jasmine and vegetal musk. I think I'm also noticing a touch of lotus... It is neither as accurate nor as clean as most lily of the valley fragrances tend to be, but I find it intriguing, nevertheless. And I like it's abstract and less than straightforward botanical feel.

Strange Invisible Perfumes


Only a couple of hours before I had to board on my plane back to YVR, Persephenie took me to Strange Invisible Perfumes boutique in Venice, CA for a little visit. Located just 1138 Abbot Kinney Blvd Venice, CA 90291, United States - (310) 314-1505 and virtually at www.siperfumes.com

The store design is a minimalist interpretation of new age. The crystal bottles are displayed among hollowed crystal rocks and on chunks of tree roots. A long glass displaly table greeted us at the front, and behind it, manning the desk was a lady intently reading book about plants and hiding behind it shyly for a while, allowing us both to sniff our way without much disruption. Deeper into the shop, lines of organic body care from other brands (i.e.: John Masters and In Fiore’s boday balms), and baskets with sachets of Douglas fir needls caught my nose the most. Further in, there is a little capsule which looks like a glass train compartment of two benches in front of one another. This is where Alexandra Ballahoutis conducts her custom perfumes, where the client gets to taste different floral waters and apply different essences on their skin.

Up until recently, the entire line was only made into the pure parfum concentrnation. I tried a few (Trapeze, Fair Verona, Pearl Dragon) and found them to be dense, medicinal and even muddy – in short, quite unaccessible. Recently, most of the perfumes were made into an Eau de Parfum formulation (contrary to the website, as far as I could tell the entire line is available in the new Eau de Parfum concentration).

I smelled most and narrowed down my interest into the following (which I plan to order samples of so I can wear them and experience them properly):

EPIC GARDENIA
Creamy gardenia, not overly heady. Tropical and rich. Will have to write more about it later after I try the sample on my skin. I also learned that Lady Day, which I always wanted to try is no longer made since the launch of Epic Gardenia. If anyone has an idea of how the two compare I would love to hear more about it.

URBAN LILY
From the new trio of modern, natural soliflores this one intrigued me the most. The intention behind it is to “FOLLOWS THESE FLOWERS BENEATH THE GARDEN FLOOR AND REVEALS THAT SWEETNESS BELIES STRENGTH”. It does not smell like lily of the valley on the blotter paper, but it does have an impressive lily of the valley suggestion on the skin – only richer and more complex. A narcissus note amplified as it progressed on the skin through the heart note phase. I will post a full review of that shortly as I received a sample at the boutique.

LYRIC RAIN
There was something intriguing about this perfume, and I wish I could wear it to follow its evolution. It has blue lotus and high quality aged patchouli as a base, which reminds me of Pashmina scarves.

MAGAZINE STREET
The most intriguing of them all, with its interplay of mystery and familiarity. It is subtly floral at first and mostly musky in the dry down, warm with hints of spice.

MOON GARDEN
Much headier than the Epic Gardenia. The dry down is sultry, honeyed and sweet with hints of orange blossom.

MUSC BOTANIQUE
I have tried this before from a sample at home (the EDP I believe) and it’s a beautiful leathery musk, that reminds me very much of my Espionage only much lighter.

TROPICAL VIAL
This one, unfortunately, smelled completely vile to me, with its harsh greenness at first. I am partial towards green smells, so take what I say with a grain of healthy doubt. It was so omnipotent though that I wasn’t able to not mention it here. It's not the kind of fragrance that can go unnoticed in the first few minutes at least. I think it was also the first one to be published as an EDP in the line.

PRIMA BALLERINA
A pretty rose. Haven't kept the scent strip but ordered a sample too (you can only order samples online, which makes sense - at the store you can try them than and there).

BLACK ROSETTE
Unusual and mesmerizing although I’m not sure it’s for me. Tannin and leathery with its black tea notes but also lighter than might be expected with hints of florals and mint. It strikes me as one of the scents you absolutely cannot form an opinion about unless you’ve tried it on your skin. So I just ordered a sample online now.
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