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Lost Lilacs

It is sad when a thing of beauty is lost. But the absence of a beauty makes it even more desirable and increases its esteem in our eyes. And so, just as the lilac blooms for only a short period of time and do not yield its lovely fragrance to any method of extraction – Mystic Lilac, one of my favourites of all floral natural perfumes has disappeared since its creator has pulled his line out of the market and went on to pursue other fragrant ambitions. Maybe he will read this post and change his mind? I sure hope so. And if this review intrigues you enough you may be my guest and bug him via his website to put his perfumes back on the shelf.

Sublime, delicate and with a seductive breath of Spring, Mystic Lilac brings to us the joy of inhaling Lilac bushes in full bloom – the twigs, the leaves, and the Spring air warming to the sunny skies.
This is a simple yet interesting rendition of Lilac – that has depth and dimension as well as a hint of mystery…
Starts off with quite distinct Ylang-Ylang and Violet Leaf accord, which establishes the green-floral, powdery-sensual theme. In the background, precious Blue Lotus, Jasmine and Tuberose create a pulsating Lilac effect that is fully established once arriving at the dry down stage while Linden Blossom adds the hint of woodiness to the composition. Powdery, green and with an underlining playful sensuality, Mystic Lilac has immediately captured my heart.

Inspired by the fresh Spring blooming lilac bushes in Michigan, the talented perfumer created this phenomenal all-natural lilac perfume that is a true floral delight. Capturing the sublime and delicate essence of fresh lilac is near to impossible when using only natural materials, and Lilac is more often replicated in the lab with synthetic aroma chemicals. Mystic Lilac may not replicate lilac like most synthetics do (which usually I find overwhelmingly heady and powdery to the point of being cloying, despite their lilac loveliness), but it does create a Lilac impression throughout its existence.

Top notes: Ylang Ylang, Blue Lotus, Violet Leaf
Heart notes: Jasmine Grandiflorum, Linden Blossom
Base notes: Tuberose

Wildflowers and Spring Perfumes

As cliché as it is, Spring always means flowers to me. Especially wildflowers. And flowers are very hard not to love. I am yet to meet the person that doesn’t like flowers in some form – in the garden, in a vase, as a floral print on textile, or their scent (bottled or not).

I am also yet to find a perfume that truly captures the scent of wildflowers in the springtime. So I revert to associating more civilized flowers in the perfume context. My trials of tincturing wildflowers did not bear any satisfactory results. So I will stick to the traditional jasmine, rose, orange blossom, tuberose et al for now, and indulge in exotic scents such as champaca, osmanthus, boronia, kewda and other aromas that I wasn’t exposed to until I became a perfumer.

For a long time, Diorissimo has been my favourite perfume, and was the essence of Spring for me. Although I don’t think any less of it, I have grown to love other scents and feel more comfortable wearing them in the Spring or otherwise – when a flowery mood dawns on me. I am hoping to be able to review some of them here before the Spring turns into Summer!

It seems like I have skipped the chilly, brisk moments of Spring here in Vancouver when I was away on my holidays. For a few days it was indeed rainy and grey and needless to say – not particularly warm. But the sunny days are significantly outnumbering the grey ones now, and you can see the immediate effect on the people around – they simply look more energetic and cheerful, and I am amongst them. A nice continuum to a vacation, I must say, so I am seriously considering an annual pilgrimage to the blooming orchards of Israel!

From the innocent lily of the valley of Diorissimo I have grown to admire the intoxicating orange blossom (as in Fleurs d’Oranger), which is perhaps the one single note that brings Spring and happiness to me in an instant. I also love the youthful cheerfulness of full-bodied and seductive jasmine, the soft fresh petals of roses. For a fresh and green feel – I have extended my affection of the floral lily of the valley to freesia, boronia and most surprisingly – to the cucumber smelling violet leaf and to the even more obscure iris.

Neither soliflores nor floral bouquets been my main interest – both as a perfumer and a wearer. I am a known as a chypre junkie and oriental lover, and generally speaking I seek complexity and evolution in my scents, which isn’t often satisfied by florals. But in the few reviews to follow, I will pay a tribute to some of my favourites that I are really special to me.

Diorissimo

Diorissimo is the essence of spring, and as it’s genius creator Roudniska has said, it captures the scent of the flowers as well as the natural atomsphere where the little modest flowers grow - green foliage and damp and chilly forest floor.

Diorissimo evokes an instantly cheerful mood and a happy and positive attitude as soon as it delights with its presence. It radiates a certain pure and youthfully innocent quality that makes it a perfect scent for initiating young girls into the world of perfumery, and perhaps even seducing them into a premature wedding with its intoxicating and euphoric scent.

As an Eau de Toilette, Diorissimo is a soliflore lily of the valley, in fact – the only one that I smelled so far that captures the scent of the crisp little white bells without smelling headily synthetic and develop into a flat, shallow nuisance on the skin.

In the Eau de Toilette I can smell mostly the galbanum, boronia and jasmine, all in a supporting role to the heady scent of freshly picked lily of the valley.

The pure parfum, however, has a more deep and less single-floral feel to it. The rose and jasmine are more dominant and the boronia works really well in accentuating the green and fresh spring qualities. I have also detected certain amount of oakmoss in the base. It is very subtle - but I think it does what it needs to do. I used to like the EDT much better, abut now I prefer the parfum.

Top notes: Green Glabanum notes
Heart notes: Lilly of the Valley, Boronia, Calyx, Rose
Base notes: Jasmine, Sandalwood, Civet
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