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Éclat de Jasmin

Backlit Jasmine

Armani Privé Éclat de Jasmin begins like a demure, soapy floral (reminiscent of AnaisAnais) and then develops into a slightly powdery jasmine accentuated by rose. As hints of osmanthus peer through this almost-genuinely jasmine-y bouquet, it seems a bit promising, actually. Underneath, a fruitchouli base begins to develop, bringing to mind hints of the raspy Notorious (Ralph Lauren) and Allure Sensuelle - though not as sickeningly cloying as the latter. This is only how it plays in the first hour or two, after which point it turns into the jasmine-y version of Narciso Rodriguez' eponymous eau de toilette, i.e.: instead of the fake orange blossom in the latter you get little bit of jasminesque accents over plenty of musk. Not my favourite jasmine by any stretch, but if you like confusing florals, give this one a try.

Top notes: Bergamot, Plum, Lemon
Heart notes: Jasmine, Osmanthus, Rose
Base notes: Patchouli, Amber, Vetiver

Jasmine Tea

Jasmine tea

Like an emerald jewel Jasmine Tea perfume is deep green and sweet.
Although Jasmine flowers and Green Tea are themed in this perfume, it is not quite as dry or floral as you would expect a Jasmine Tea to be – but indeed quite edible!
Instead, it is like an earthy-herbal candied celebration of greenery.
Blood orange opens the almost-culinary experience  with fruity freshness, along with beautifully balanced floral heart of rich and full bodied jasmine (both Sambac and Grandiflorum) tea-like Osmanthus, and the sweetness of Rose and Rosemary absolute.
The underlining base accord of Green Tea, Cedar Absolute and Fir Absolute along with the citrus and floral bouquet creates a sweet and earthy impression that is both warm and vibrant.

The talented Lisa Fong from Artemisia Perfumes have created this perfume solely from natural essences. Lisa Fong’s style is that of refined elegance, which brings to mind Jo Malone’s perfumery, which emphasizes the individual ingredients. However, I do find these perfumes to possess a far greater depth and originality.
Of all her creations, Jasmine Tea is the sweetest – though not in the least cloying. It is an original and uplifting Gourmand.
Artemisia's other fragrances can be found at artemisiaperfume.com

Top notes:  Blood orange, Rosewood
Heart notes: Jasmine Grandiflorum, Jasmine Sambac, Osmanthus, Rose, Rosemary Absolute
Base notes: Green Tea Absolute, Cedar Absolute, Fir Absolute

Sampaquita

81/365 - Convinced she can do everything she's ever dreamed of with just a little more space

This exotic name is no more than the Philippine name for Jasmine Sambac. Here is it accompanied with lychee and grass oil top notes, which makes it sweet and almost cloying and backed up with patchouli the result is quite reminiscent of the hippie era...
This opening accord (sambac, lychee, grass oil, patchouli) is actually quite pleasant on its own and is awfully familiar - however soon a superficial water lily note interferes and makes the scent somewhat irritating for me.

Definitely an interesting scent to try - but not my favourite from this house. I didn't find myself reaching for the sample very often. Also, once I apply it I usually want to switch to something else pretty fast. I love the name of that perfume - it sound romantic, exotic, mysterious and sweet.

Top notes: Lychee, Grass Oil, Bergamot, Magnolia
Heart notes: Sampaquita Absolute (Jasmine Sambac), Freesia, Muguet, Rose, Water Lily
Base notes: Musk, Vetiver, Moss, Ambrette Seed, Pathchouli

Jasmine Creamsicle

You know, I think the large trees are easier.

The show must go on, and to distract myself from the wild forest fires, I'm testing out jasmine perfumes in my nearly forgotten stash of samples. Some perfumes have very obviously jasmine-y name, so I'm beginning my little jasmine expedition with those. As it turns out, it is rather difficult to find a true jasmine perfume out there. The main reason? Jasmine is expensive, and most companies use very little if at all of genuine jasmine absolute. And with my particularly spoiled nose, that is accustomed to either smelling the fresh living flowers, top-notch jasmine teas or fine absolutes from India and Egypt - I'm hard to impress.

Additionally, even the jasmine reconstitutions or floral bases out there tend to be low on the indole, because it is supposedly too old fashioned and/or offensive to most; and also gives a bronish-orangey tint to whichever product it is suspended in... In my pile of fake jasmines, Jasmin de Nuit stood out as a bit unusual because I could smell real jasmine in it, and also true vanilla absolute, in all its complex, woody charm.

Jasmin de Nuit was Celine Elena's first scent for the Ellena family's endeavour, The Different Company, and refreshingly it bares very little resemblence to her father's austere style. It opens with full-bodied fruity jasmine (Egyptian jasmine has lower indole content than Indian, and also is a bit more fruity and peach/apricot like). Before long, a prominent vanilla absolute base is revealed. And an hour or so later, sweet orange notes - not so much the zest, but rather the actual orange juice emerges, making it smell rather like an Orange Creamsicle. Lovely, fun but not quite jasmine-y enough to my taste. I'm also smelling a reference to Tocade, with its exaggerated ambreine accord of amber and bergamot, accentuated with musk. The spices take a very modest role of simply accenting the composition and adding interest 0 which is why it does not smell entirely of Creamsicle, but rather smells fun and intriguing.

Top Notes: Blackcurrant, Star Anise, Cardamom, Bergamot
Heart Notes: Egyptian Jasmine, Cinnamon, Orange Juice
Base Notes: Vanilla, Amber, Sandalwood, Musk 

Poet's Jasmine

Jasminum officinale, poet's jasmine. Botanical Magazine vol.1, J.Sowerby (1787)

Poet's Jasmine, one of the five fragrances that make up Ineke's Floral Curiosities collection is one of the synonyms for Jasminum officinale - the mainstay household jasmine that has been naturalized throughout Europe through historical routes little known.

Poet's Jasmine opens with a very tame, fruity and light jasmine accord, and hints of tea accents. The fruity body takes over within a few minutes, revealing a summery composition that reminds me first of the candied-flower fragrance of methyl-antrhanilate that is prevalent in Serge Lutens' Fleur d'Oranger; and quickly developed into the amber, ylang ylang and jasmine accord of Annick Goutal's Songes. This phase remains on the skin for an hour or so; and then turns into a skin musk type of scent, the like of the musc and patchouli base that's Crazylubellule and the Poppies' ShanghaiJava Musc & Patchouli. If you dislike the indolic aspect of jasmine, this would be a nice jasminesque scent for you. I also noticed a huge difference between wearing it in cool weather vs the warm weather we're blasted with right now. In the cooler weather it smells more watered-down and distant. I'm happy to report it is much better in the heat, taking on more floriental and dreamy personality.

According to Ineke's website, the notes are:

Top notes: Citrus Fruit, Rosemary, Absinthe, Star Anise
Heart notes: Jasmine, Frankincense, Cardamom 
Base notes: Hinoki wood, Guiacwood 

And it also provides some whimsical images, as always, including this jasmine tea recipe:

"Poet's Jasmine Tea
1 handful freshly picked jasmine flowers and leaves
2 cups boiling water
slices of orange
honey to taste
Place the poet's jasmine flowers and foliage in a teapot, add the boiling water and allow to infuse for about four minutes. 
Remove the jasmine with a strainer, add a slice of orange instead of lemon, and a little honey for added sweetness if you like. 
Serve with a sprig of jasmine flowers and a few bon mots." 


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