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SmellyBlog

Villoresi's Patchouli

Cockspur Patchouli by dinesh_valke
Cockspur Patchouli, a photo by dinesh_valke on Flickr.

Indeed, Villoresi’s Patchouli is musty and earthy as you would expect from Pathcouli, but the Patchouli does not play as dominant role as does spikenard: there is a whiff of herbaceous-peppery patchouli top notes, which is instantly replaced by the musty, earthy dirt-and-moist-hay scent of spikenard. It does mellow a bit and reveals some more sweeter-patchouli at the dry down, and becomes a hint more powdery and sweet. However, if I would name this single-note composition I would choose to call it Spikenard.
Spikenard has a very distinctive aroma, so if you love the musty scent of moist earth after rain, you would love this perfume.
I love spikenard, but it does not wear well with my body chemistry. Another note of appreciation I have for this perfume is that it smells very natural, which is a quality I love about a perfume. It is sincere and non-overwhelming.

Black Rosette

Ancient, arcane and dark, like the light of a far away nebula whose light is of stars long dead.
Black Rosette parfum begins with hints of dark Moroccan mint tea and rosewater, but is mostly redolent of antique Chinese wooden cabinets, camphor and patchouli. The rose stays throughout the composition, but it's in the background, mingling the camphoreous and woodsy notes together rather than standing in the limelight.

Top notes: Spearmint, Camphor
Heart notes: Rose
Base notes: Patchouli, Sandalwood, Black Tea

Persian Lily

Lily by Fahad Ali Shahid
Lily, a photo by Fahad Ali Shahid on Flickr.

I’ve decided to wear Persica today on the notion that this might be just what a the Persian queen Vashti would try on when she refused to dance naked in front of Achashverosh’s guests.

The premise of finding Perisan white lilac in here was soon forgotten, as the perfume’s airy rosewood and sweet vanilla were overcome by indolic jasmine lurking in the background. Warm cardamom makes its presence very clear from the beginning, giving mystery and intrigue, and the ylang ylang is very quiet but works its silent alchemy on the skin. It soon becomes more of a jasmine and vanilla perfume, before it takes its final alchemical transformation into a Madonna lily in full bloom. Naturally, the salycilic notes are far more muted and palatable than any other commercial lily would have ever been able to do. If you liked the vanilla and lily contrast in Vanille Galante, this would be a wonderful all-natural alternative.

Top notes: Rosewood, Cardamom
Heart notes: Ylang Ylang, Jasmine, Sambac
Base notes: Vanilla Absolute

Purple Love Smoke

Violet Smoke by crankykoopa
Violet Smoke, a photo by crankykoopa on Flickr.

Purple Love Smoke is the most accurate way to describe this perfume. And only goes to show you what a powerful outcome and wonderful possibilities there are when a scent artist has a complete freedom with their art form.

Like all of Liz Zorn's natural perfumes, Purple Love Smoke has an intense yet subtle complexity. Even when you smell an ingredient, you can never be quite sure if it's there or not. There are a lot of different facets and aspects to this perfume and it evolves on the skin and keeps changing. Even at the point when there is non to be detected by the nose, you might still feel its presence.

It opens with an intoxicating candied sweetness that would have been overpowering and sickening if it wasn't for the fact that it is accompanied by an entourage of its exact opposite: smoke and mystery. What would have been a fruity bubblegum of the worst kind in the hands of a celebrity-controlled laboratory is instead intriguing and fabulous.

The initial notes are mysterious yet familiar; floral yet warm and spicy. It has a fruity sweetness not of one particular note, but bring to mind the sweetness of pink magnolias on a warm April day, drizzled with sunny maple syrup and a dash of rum. It's like the girly version of a single malt scotch: one that is redolent of red fruit, berries and perhaps some other unfamiliar exotic fruits mingling with the peaty, smoke-like qualities of highland scotch. It's also strangely reminiscent of a bakery, but not of a particular pastry, though rye and caraway come to mind; and also reminds me of antique teak furniture and hand-printed ethnic textiles in a dark room. What I'm smelling in the dryout is mostly immortelle absolute, with its maple and curry-like qualities, and more-than-decent dose of real vanilla absolute.

A couple of years ago, I ordered a few samples from Liz Zorn, and Purple Love Smoke was one of them. Now that I've finally spent some time breathing it from my skin and have wrapped my head around it - I see that it's been discontinued, which is a shame. But who am I to speak? I'm just about to discontinue more than half of my collection and I should know more than anyone else that the reason for discontinuing a scent are as complex as the relationship between an artist, his pieces and the audience. Not to mention the scarcity of some raw materials, and the gradually diminishing space as time goes by. In short: it's inevitable. I'll savour the little sample I got and enjoy its fleeting beauty as long as I possibly can.

Pink Lotus by Aftelier

"And the light shineth in darkness; and the darkness comprehended it not" (John 1:5)

Pink Lotus by Aftelier is a study of pink lotus absolute – a difficult material to work with, on several levels: first of all, it has a dark bright orange colour that likes to leave stains behind. That aside, it is difficult to describe its odour profile. It’s not at all what you’d expect from a water flower. It’s complex, heavy, murky even; fading into a non-descript heavy powdery oblivion that can either suffocate or disappoint.

What this perfume does is highlight this floral absolute's qualities. Instead of pretending to be anything else, it expands on the darker qualities of pink lotus, without making it any more “pink” in personality than wearing black mascara would do to make the lips appear redder.

Other complex florals help brighten the beginning of Pink Lotus, making it more palatable than it would have been on its own – jasmine, rose and ylang ylang, and also bright citrus notes of bitter orange and the floral nuances of bergamot, which nicely go with a hint of pepper. I'm also smelling a whisper of resin in the background - perhaps opoponax or myrrh. Although antique sandalwood is one of the main ingredients listed on the Aftelier website, I am not smelling it on my own skin.

But soon enough, oakmoss brings out the murky characteristics of this strange absolute, which points to the roots of this sacred plant – one that has its feet in the dirty, dark water of decay, and which transforms itself into a thing of beauty with a thousand petals.

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