In the midst of an artificial perfume collection, dominated by computer generated fragrances, Calvin Klein’s Obsession stands out, being a modern Oriental that is surprisingly charming.
Obsession appeals to the young generation of impulsive, simplicity-seeking youth as well as “grown ups” with style that haven’t yet completely repressed their sensuality for the sake of synthetic class. It’s intense appeal is derived from an interesting approach combining heavy and rich natural essences such as oakmoss and frankincense, with an added touch of modern sparkle that is almost deceivingly perceived as fresh and “light” by distracted passing-by noses…

It starts with quite a blast of summery sparkle of tangerines and mandarins, beautifully melted into an ice-cream like note of intensely sweet vanillin. This accord is sweet and fresh at once, almost like a creamsickle…

The heart, though floral, still possesses the charming contrast of sweet floral notes with some tanginess: heady jasmine mellowed and balanced by the citrus-invoking floral note of Orange Blossom absolute. It is backed up by a warm accord of fluffy smoke of sandalwood incense.

The base contains an interesting dosage of oakmoss that is dry and synthetically modified, to create an almost spicy impression reminiscent of allspice berry and of cyclamen. It is accompanied by frankincense and is heavily backed up with notes of vanilla and fresh-smelling, radiant amber, which will end up dominating the dry down without compromise.

Obsession is fun to wear, and is quite versatile. Though classified as an oriental, it has certain quality to it that makes it suitable to wear also in more casual social settings, and in mild and even warm weather.

Top notes: Mandarin, Tangerines

Heart notes: Orange blossom, Jasmine, Sandalwood

Base notes: Vanillin, Amber, Frankincense, Oakmoss

Image from Un Monde En Senteurs - the first musical, olfactive, and aquatic concert ever held in Switzerland

The mere act of opening the brown illustrated perfume case is like pulling an old violin out of its case. Remove the stopper and you are about to play the most expressive Sonata. The flacon itself, with its stylized, curled stopper, is suggestive of a string instrument.

There is something fascinating about Mitsouko, as if time has stopped and got encapsulated in this unusual bottle. It is like visiting an ancient library and hearing the voices of history whispering from the walls and the leaves of the leather-bound book.

Mitsouko speaks in a silent and subtle language, that cannot be heard by all. I feel it represents a persona of restrained passion and always keeps a certain distance – as if not willing to fully reveal itself even when intimately dabbed as Parfum…

The initial impression is a clean, yet rich and intense scent, somewhat powdery, with lavender and orris notes. This fades quickly, to be taken over by an interesting bitter peach-like note, which brings to mind the feeling you get when you crack the peach core, and the little bitter almond flavour emerges along with the dry woody aroma of the seed, and blends in with the pink sweetness of the not-yet-so-ripe (but full of aroma) fruit! The texture overall is that of an under-ripe peach skin, very velvety but somewhat shivering to the touch… But you touch it anyways to feel the Summer arriving… But also of the dried peach, which possesses a rich and somewhat bitter aroma, and is not as sweet as the fresh fruit.

These notes are enticing, full-bodied and very refined. This unique and lovely peach accord is subtly backed up by a jasmine and roes accord, warmed by allspices and other earthy spices which remained a mystery. The floral heart gradually and slowly deepens softly by the notes that make Mitsouko the wonderful Chypre it is: Vetiver, Sandalwood, and a very modest (just the right amount) of patchouli to make the scent warm but not heavy. These notes politely invite themselves in, to accompany this interesting gathering of notes that are both Eastern and Western…
The notes intermingle with each other so harmoniously and so beautifully that by this time it is hard to tell one from the other for a while… You just give yourself up to fully enjoy the experience and the big mystery behind it…

The classical Eastern Vetiver and Agarwood dominate the base, accentuated with a clean and dry patchouli, and there is just a hint of oakmoss and a warm, animalic labdanum note at the base. The warmer notes of the base grow on you bit by bit, but always stay very mellow, as the centre of the stage is that enigmatic, sweet&sour Japanese Agarwood, and the dry or moist vetiver root. The dry down possesses only a hint of the ambery-vanilla Guerlinade accord, and is mostly a classical, well-refined woody Chypre.

Mitsouko makes me feel as if I am are floating in air and at the same time is very grounded. It’s like forgetting myself while playing classical music (probably from the romantic period – Tchaikovsky’s Seasons comes to mind..), being reminded that I am still in the room only by the scent of the old wooden piano...


Mitsouko brings to mind a wild desert wind, while at the same time acts in a most refined and cultural manner. It is luscious and almost convinces you that it is delicious and fruit, yet does not rise up your appetite at all. It’s a perfume for the sake of perfume, not worn for any other reason but to appreciate this original orchestration of counterpoint and intermingling resonances.
Full of mystery and subtle nuances, it is a perfume to meditate upon…

Although a romantic in the aesthetic meaning of the word, Mitsouko is not a soft spoken, sweetly seductive perfume. It will seduce and elevate ones soul, but not the body, if such a distinction can be made at all. It would be a faithful companion at times of turmoil.

I find Mitsouko very hard to grasp. It’s a fragrance that needs to be worn in very specific moods, when you can totally tune into it and may take a long time to tune into and build a trusting relationship; as if Mitsouko is a shy person that needs to be gently coaxed into a conversation. Even now, after knowing it and wearing it many times, I still feel there is a lot I do not understand about it

Top notes: Peach aldehyde, Orange,
Heart notes: Jasmine, Rose, Spices
Base notes: vetiver, oud, labdanum, oakmoss, patchouli, vanilla.


p.s. I love Mitsouko in all concentrations - the Eau de Toilette and the Eau de Parfum and even the body lotion. More later about the difference between concentrations.

Vol de Nuit makes me think about the heroic women of the WWII era, namely my dear grandmother. It is her signature perfume for over 50 years, ever since my grandfather took her to the Guerlain boutique in Champs Elysees, where it was chosen for her by the fragrance consultant, as it complemented her independent and adventurous personality. The scent of Vol de Nuit dry down seem to kindly linger around her and in her home. Like a truly well fitted signature scent, it never occurred to me it could be a perfume, it is like her second skin and complements her beautifully.

I also associate it with the desert-dwelling heroine from The English Patient, Katherine, and the lost pilot in “The Little Prince”. Vol de Nuit sends a feeling of brave loneliness and secret stories that may never be told.

Once the propeller on the bottle settles down enough for you to unleash the scent, it shouts of freedom. Freedom that leads to unknown adventures, risks and perhaps even pain. Green galbanum, sage and bergamot are hint to the Chypre quality of this marvelous perfume. A a multi faceted olfactory adventure awaits you, and you'll need your courage and faith…

The green rush fades rather quickly, smoothing itself gradually into an almost powdery combination of jonquil and cedar wood, mellowed and warmed by powdery musk and the Guerlainade – orris root, tonka bean and vanilla. That is what makes the narcissus notes not so heady and overwhelming (reassuringly, this perfume is neither too floral nor overly sweet, maintaining an adventurous sophistication).

The smooth, somewhat powdery heart gradually evolves into a more sophisticated Woody-Chypre accord, based on Labdanum and Oakmoss and a noble Agarwood note that lends a somewhat sweet, somewhat sour undertone that is not unlike Mitsouko’s vetiver and agarwood base, but is richer and sweeter.

Than there is the next phase of heart notes – which is definitely the inspiration for Chant d’Aromes in my opinion, as it smells exactly like this lovely, bittersweet autumnal-spring-like perfume: the fresh white floral notes (honeysuckle, gardenia, narcissus) over a woody-light musky-chypre base, floral and deeply warm at once, fresh and young and at the same time thoughtful and deep.

The dry down echoes the earlier impression of the heart accord: woody and musky, with some amber-vanilla sweetness in the tradition of Guerlain (Which somewhat reminds me of Shalimar - only that Shalimar is a perfume worn to seduce, where as in Vol de Nuit the seduction is a lot more subtle, unintentional if you will – the seduction of others is only a side effect of one’s confidence and quiet mystique.

Like Shalimar, the Vol de Nuit dry down is somewhat resembling a natural skin scent (which is my own personal weakness...), only more dry, woody and powdery. Shalimar is ambery while Vol de Nuit is muskier.

Vol de Nuit is rich, complex, mysterious… A perfume of refinement and an understated, passionate approach to life. It should be worn with dignity and self-worth. In my mind it symbolizes independence and individuality in its most truthful meaning – facing adversity all by yourself, while maintaining your integrity and remembering who you are.

Top notes; Galbanum, Bergamot, Sage
Heart notes: Jonquil, Jasmine, Orris Root, Cedar wood, Musk
Base notes: Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Oakmoss, Cedar wood, Agarwood, Labdanum, Oakmoss, Vetive

p.s. I couldn't possibly stress enough how important it is to find and wear this in the parfum. It's difficult but well worth the effort. The Eau de Toilette simply doesn’t cut it. And I feel this is true for Shalimar and l'Heure Bleue as well. Mitsouko is the one perfume from Jacques Guerlain’s “Grand Quartet” that I like in any shape, form or concentration.