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What To Wear On A First Date?

If you frequent perfume fora like I do, you've probably stumbled upon this question - and it's many varying answers - more than once.

Women may spend hours if not days trying to put together an outfit for a first date. And for perfumistas like us, an outfit is never complete without the finishing touch of a dab or spray of perfume that would make you feel special and confident, and leave a lasting impression.

This is also true for men. Making the extra effort of putting a scent on shows the other person that the man got style. I may be a minority, but I think that even bad style is better than no style at all...

First impressions are very important. Within seconds of meeting a new person, we form an opinion of them – based on their looks, their clothing, their emotional state, eye contact, and their scent (are you surprised?).

Selecting which scent to wear can be nearly as daunting as dating itself and as challenging as finding a perfect mate (can such thing even exist?!). The right scent depends greatly on who you are as well as your particular mood, the date setting, and what impression you want to make when meeting a new person. But rather than go through a long, logical thinking process that will go through all the options, scenarios and the combinations possible, I honestly think you should use your gut feeling and pick something that truly represents the real you. Confidence is not only emotionally healthy traits: they are also attractive. And wearing the right scent can boost your self-esteem and make you more attractive.

Wear “your skin but better” scents, to show them the real you. A skin scent would be a scent that brings the best from your own skin rather than mask your natural scent. Body odour is actually an important factor of choosing a mate, so if you cover up who you are, you are makint the task even more difficult for both yourself and your date.

More than any other scent, I have worn Espionage on most of the first dates I’ve gone on, and it seems it always was a good choice (which I may not be able to say about the dates themselves, but surely the presence of my invisible friend floating on my skin helped me survive them!).
Espionage is the one scent that I feel most comfortable in. I feel it best portrays who I am on different levels and dimensions. You may have your own “signature scent” or a scent you’ve traveled so much with in life that it nearly transcends the time-space barrier, making it suitable for any and all situations, moods and occasions. I just happen to feel that way with Espionage.

Other “skin scents” that I adore include Agent Provocatuer and Kisu (be sure to apply it well in advance – and I mean several hours before to get the maximum effect), and the raunchier Muscs Kublai Khan, with its animalic dark musk and costus. All these scents are suitable for both men and women in my opinion. But of course, you will have to try for yourself and pick the scent that is most compatible with your own body chemistry.

If you want to play it more safe, I suggest you go with Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely or Narciso Rodriguez for Her. Both are the “clean musk” type and have a bit of the fresh-laundry vibe to them, which make them cozy and inviting and non-intimidating. Since both are rather feminine, I feel obliged to suggest a masculine counterpart. For the gentlemen going on their first date, something breezy like Cool Water or Pure Turquoise may not be as adventurous, but it can become quite appealing on the right person; and if you want to be a little more edgy, Narciso Rodriguze for Him might do the trick.

Sometimes your choice for a first date fragrance may have a lot to do with your mood or the season though. What can be more perfect than wearing Spring Flower when going on a brunch date or to scout a flea market on a gorgeous spring day? Or Bronze Goddess (formerly known as Azuree de Soleil) or Terracotta Eau Sous le Vent, or GiGi for a walk on on the sunny beach, and for a man – I think the sexiest genre is that of aromatic fougeres with a higher dose of citrus, such as Annick Goutal’s Eau de Sud.

I’ve worn my Hanami on a what turned out to be a very romantic first date: it was a rainy spring evening and all the cherry blossoms were out, and we had to walk together under the same umbrella as he walked me home.

And don’t be afraid to show a side of yourself that is a little more daring if that’s what you are craving. Even a powerhouse scent like Chinatown, Angel, Habanita or Kouros can be the right choice as long as you don’t over apply!
For stronger scents, it’s better to apply by dabbing whenever possible (i.e.: if you own the parfum extrait, they usually come in a flacon with a dabber); or apply the scent by spraying it to one wrist only, than “sharing” this one spritz with the other wrist and at the nape of your neck or behind the ears. Or, you can transfer a small amount to a roll-on bottle for a more discreet application (and for travel).

Lastly, you’ve got to love them aphrodisiacs, as cliché as they may have become by now. Since men seem to be all into vanilla, this can be an effortless affair, with a classic such as Shalimar, or with something a little less demanding and more gourmand such as L de Lolita Lempicka. And for the men who want to impress us women, how about a perfume that has an overdose of sandalwood, which is the closest thing to the men pheromone. I love how it’s played in Egoiste and Bois des Îles (although neither is too easy to find) as well as Tam Dao.

Have fun with picking a scent for your first date, it doesn’t need to be all that serious. It’s just going to leave a life-long, lasting impression this way or the other… And to summarize, I only suggest you remember these two golden rules:
1) Highlight who you truly are by selecting scents that you feel comfortable and confident wearing.
2) Apply with discretion. Too much of a good thing can have the complete opposite effect than you wish. Remember: a scent is meant to attract and invite people to get closer, not repel them and send them gasping for air in the opposite direction!

What scents do you reach for before going on a date? Recommendations from both men and women would be most welcome. I'd also be curious to hear about your horror perfume-dating scenarios (from either side - wearing it or smelling it!).

A Rose is a Rose is a Rose...Or Is It?


Winter Rose, originally uploaded by Deborah Harroun.

Apparently, this is not always as simple as it may seem. I have received the following from a lady from Transylvania who had really hard time choosing between two very stylized rosy perfumes from Caron:

Hi Ayala,

I would really appreciate some help I am sure you are quite busy and received many emails; I am trying to decide between Nuit de Noël and Parfum Sacré . I seamed to be decided on Nuit de
Noël ( I am a bit partial to it because I am born on Christmas Day and will travel home this winter to Transylvania and it seams to encompass a lit of all the things I miss and cherish) . After reading many reviews on both perfumes I am undecided between the two . My favorite perfume so far has been Amarige by Givenchy. Also I would like to purchase the perfume versus the EDT as it seams to be quite a difference in scents with Caron, is that so is there a big difference?. This will be my first Caron purchase . To tell you know a bit about my style and interests; I am not a girl loves all things pink king of gal:)... I love Marlene Dietrich and Greta Garbo and my biggest interest is ancient Greek and Roman history, I love all things classic and tailored.

Thank you so much for your time and attention,

Antonia



Dear Antonia,

Thank you so much for your email and my apologies for taking so long to reply!

Nuit de Noël and Parfum Sacré are very different from one another, albeit both being dark and rosy.

Personally, Parfum Sacré reminds me more of Christmas than Nuit de Noël. There is something about it that just makes it feel very festive and at the same time - despite all the spices and musk - it feels very, very light. Almost like a caress of snowflakes on your cheeks, if those were warm; or a fuzzy fur collar. I have to say though that my impressions are based entirely on the eau de parfum formulation. I have never tried it in parfum, but I hear it is more peppery than the EDP.

Nuit de Noël is darker and denser and if it has anything to do with Christmas, perhaps it is somewhat like plum pudding. There is a bit of an ink quality to it. It is also more dry than Parfum Sacré (even though the latter is dry and spicy and incensey). If there is any sweetness to it - it's more like licorice than a real sugary sweet.

To summarize - while both perfumes are rosy and dark, Parfum Sacré is more airy, spicy and incensey, light and expansive while Nuit de Noël is darker, denser, deep and more mysterious. It is really about the effect you want to achieve and what you associate more with Christmas - something more contemplative (Nuit de Noël) or more festive and outgoing (Parfum Sacre). Both perfumes are excellent so it's definitely not a question of quality, but taste.

All this being said, the only way you can really make a decision is to try them both. There are plenty of ways to obtain samples of these exquisite Caron fragrances - either call the nearest Caron boutique to you (there is one in Paris and another one in New York) and they might be able to ship samples to your country. And if not - try swapping on the many fragrance boards (Perfume of Life, Make Up Alley, Basenotes, Perfume Addicts, to name the main ones) or order from one of the decant and samples merchants online (from a quick shopping around I can tell you that The Perfumed Court carries many Caron samples)

Warm regards,

Ayala

Why No Spray?

Ms. Ayala,

Hope you are doing well.

I would like to know, is there a particular reason as to why natural perfumes are hard to find in spray from? What's your personal opinion in regards to this type of packaging?

Thank you for your time,

Maria


Dear Maria,

Thank you so much for your email and for your interest in Ayala Moriel Parfums!

I can only speak for myself and say that the only reason I do not offer my perfumes in spray form is because I haven't found the right bottles for my company that are spray bottles.
I used to sell my perfumes in either large 1oz or 2oz bottles, as well as small 1/4oz purse spray and I found that:

A. the purse sprays sold the most (most of my customers like to buy more than one perfume at a time)

B. The spray mechanism did not seal the bottle properly, so there was too much leakage and evaporation. I could just not find a bottle to my liking (visually) that would also function well (keep the perfume from escaping the bottle that is).

Other advantages of flacons (bottles with dabbers):

1. More control over the application (which is of special advantage if the perfume contains a staining ingredient, such as saffron or coffee absolute)

2. Many of the natural perfumers create their perfumes by hand and filter them by hand so some particles such as floral waxes may be still present and could clog up the spray mechanism

3. Lastly, the element of marketing and packaging comes into play: since natural perfumes are often made with very expensive raw materials, they are best sold in smaller volume to make them more affordable. The small spray bottles usually look cheap while the flacons with the dabbers make the perfume reflect the elegance and preciousness of the perfume.

Sincerely,

Ayala

News from the Nose: ArbitRary Candle, Vetiver Racinettes and Father's Day

Dear Fragrant Friends,

In this newsletter:

  • Father's Day Celebrations
  • New Arrival: ArbitRary Candle
  • Candle Burning Tips
  • Enjoying Scents in Summer
  • Limited Edition: Vetiver Racinettes

Father's Day Celebrations



Two years ago I was fortunate to celebrate Father's Day with my dad going to the Van Dussen Gardens and enjoying a day outdoors among the beautiful plants. This is where I captured this scene of a child sitting on a tree branch, just like in Oscar Wilde's "The Selfish Giant", waiting to be helped down by someone bigger and stronger.

I was talking to my brother today about scents that reminds him of our father. These turned out to be primarily turpentine and paint thinner. He never wore a fragrance and kept a beard so didn't even use as much as an aftershave by way of fragrance products. This is maybe a bit extreme, but most dads, it seems, would go scentless unless they receive gifts of fragrance. And so this is suppose to be the point where I should have a little spiel in my newsletter convincing you to buy a fragrance for your father. Well, I'll be doomed if that's what I'm suppose to do every year on Father's Day for the rest of my career. I trust that you know what your dad likes, and be it an electronic gadget, hardware or a tie, what will really make him happy is your thoughts of him and spending time together with his children.

So instead of advocating for more fragrance shopping (by all means, go for it if you must...) I just wanted to acknowledge that special day coming up on Sunday June 15th and wish you all a Happy Father's Day. It is a secular holiday that celebrates something that is essential and universally meaningful - parenthood, and thanking our parents for all that they did for us. Aside from that, I highly recommend you read my myth-crashing article titled What Makes a Fragrance Masculine?

New arrival: ArbitRary Candle



Ayala Moriel is proud to present the first perfumed candle in our collection: ArbitRary.

ArbitRary candle is based in food-grade soy wax with pure cotton wick. It has a stunning cold throw that is as refreshing and bright as the perfume itself. It burns with its lovely, refreshing

aroma, filling the room gently with its mélange of basil, lime, lemon
verbena, oakmoss and hay.

Each 8oz candle burns for 50-60 hours and retails for $45. They are now available for ordering and will be in stock next week

In all of our products - perfumes, jewelry, teas and now candles - we put quality, integrity and craftsmanship as a top priotiry. When sourcing production from outside of our atelier, we collaborate with independent artisans who are passionate about their art and value quality and integrity in their business just as much as we do. In doing so, we are committed to creating positive change in our world: we give you the best, pure product we can possibly create and also support like-minded artisans and their businesses. This is our way of creating small change in the way business is conducted around the world.
Our perfumed candles are made with attention to purity, quality and detail: each candle is created and hand-poured especially for us by hand by Nikki Sherritt, the talented and passionate artisan candle maker and the founder of Seattle-based, independent candle company Gabriel’s Aunt. The candle was custom-made especially for Ayala Moriel Parfums, based on the perfume formula of ArbitRary. Nikki and I have been working on adding all-natural perfumed candles to

my line since the fall, and we hope that ArbitRary will be received in the enthusiasm it deserves so that we can create more beautiful candles for you (the next candles are going to be gorgeous!).

Candle Burning Tips



To get the most out of your candle, follow these simple steps:

Safety tips:

- Never leave a burning candle unattended

- Place burning candle away from any flammable materials

- Place the candle away from reach of children and pets; keep matches and lighters away from children as well.

- To avoid large flame, always trip the wick before lighting your candle to the recommended length of 1/8”

- Burn the candle away from open windows

How to care for your candle:

- When burning your candle for the first time, burn it for 4 hours straight, or until there a melted wax pool forms on the entire surface of the candle. This will help avoiding the formation of a hole or a “tunnel” in the middle of the candle.

- To ensure an even burn, always trip the wick before burning, and ensure it is centered.

- Burn the candle away from open windows or drafts to avoid uneven burn and enlarged flame

Enjoying Scents in the Summer

In the heat and humidity of summer choosing the right scent to wear isn't easy. There are many factors that don't work in our favour at this time of the year in relation to fragrance:

Humidity
tends to make scents feel heavy and suffocating. Therefore, try to avoid scents that are already heavy by nature, such as concentrated floral perfumes (particularly the more narcotic notes can come off as overbearing in extreme heat and humidity). Humidity strangely carries the scents in the air and at times even amplifies them. They may not stay for long on your skin with all the sweating but while they do they could linger quite heavily in the air, carried by the moist molecules.
That is why I recommend only the lightest and preferably "dry" scents for those unbearable humid days. Notes such as woods and vetiver, as well as citrus and fragrances with only a light touch of spices and very little floral notes if at all. For example: Bon Zai with its dry vetiver and sandalwood; Lovender's captivating fresh and calming lavender, lemon, sandalwood and iris notes; and last but not least Sabotage - a clean, sophisticated and somewhat soapy concoction of vetiver, tobacco and lemon leaves with a hint of pepper.

Heat increases the evaporation rate of scents and so you may need re-apply scents more often during the summer. Traditionally, citrus and light cologne or eau fraiche type fragrances are worn in the summer. These are very light and not long lasting to begin with and the simple action of applying the scent is perceived as cooling, which adds to their appeal. Aside from using your favourite light summer fragrances you may also want to try using simple floral water to freshen up in the heat of the day. Neroli (orange flower water) and Rosewater are widely available in many Middle-Eastern, Greece and East Indian grocery stores and are fairly inexpensive. Decant some into a spray bottle or a mister and enjoy the cool water on your face, neck and arms. Some other floral waters or hydrosols can be found as well - including sandalwood and vetiver. Likewise, floral waters or pure spring water can be sprinkled on vetiver fans to produce a cooling waft of air.

When it's really hot, I particularly enjoy wearing ArbitRary, with its citrus-herbal notes of basil, lime and verbena; Fetish, bursting with grapefruit, mandarin and rhododendron; and Charisma, with its exotic green-tea, osmanthus and spearmint notes.

Limited Edition: Vetiver Racinettes



Last year, I have conducted an intensive Vetiver Series on SmellyBlog. Aside from articles about the odour profiles of vetiver from different regions, traditional and medicinal uses of vetiver, and reviews of vetiver-centered fragrances - I have shared my own experiences in creating a series of mods for my very own vetiver perfume. One thing lead to another, and after 4 different vetiver versions (Vetiver Blanc, Wilde Vetyver, Vetiver Noir and Vetiver Rouge) - I have finally arrived at a destination that I have never quite planned to find - my very own signature vetiver scent: Vetiver Racinettes.

Vetiver Racinettes was born out of two forces: my curiousity to study this intriguing and versatile note; and a deep need that I can only describe as therapeutic at that time, which lead me specifically to that essence. The result of this vetiver journey is a perfume that contains all of the elements that I've ever loved in the vetiver scents I've tried, as well as my own conclusions from my journey in the route of vetiver. It has the warmth of earth and firey spices and at the same time - the coolness of clay and vetiver curtains sprinkled with water; the medicinal dryness of herbs and grasses and the luxurious tenacity of woods; the sweetness of tarragon and earth with the bitterness of coffee and mud.

Top notes: Black Pepper, Fresh Ginger, Cardamom, Kaffir Lime Leaf
Heart notes: Haitian Vetiver , Nutmeg Asbolute, Coffee, Spikenard
Base notes: Ruh Khus, Indonesian Vetiver, Vetiver Bourbon, Attar Mitti, Tarragon Absolute, Cepes

I had difficult time deciding when to release Vetiver Racinettes; and after consulting with all of my "sniffing bunnies" I have arrived at the conclusion that the summer would be the best time of year to appreciate the calm coolness that it brings while also accentuating the extremist attitude this scent has. And so Vetiver Racinettes is now at your service, as a limited edition for summertime.

Happy Father's Day!

Warm regards,

Ayala

Spring Essentials - Part Two: Spring Greens


Cycas revoluta leaves uncurling, originally uploaded by Amelia PS.

After the bursts of flowers have been shaken up by storms or sun, and been run down to the grown, little green leaves emerge and cover the trees with what is at first a very pale, transparent green, growing stronger and darker as the sunshine unfolds.

Crushed green leaves are perhaps the second most powerful smell we associate with spring. Perhaps freshly turned soil is another, if you are in the gardening circles. Crushed leaves in perfumery have an interesting double-standard, meaning at once nature at its best - and also class, restraint and well-mannered elegance.

If simplicity, nature or spring cleaning appeal to you, you may enjoy these fragrances more than florals during this time of year. Here are a few leafy-green fragrances that particularly appeal to me.

Clean, sharp and somehow, even 30-something years after its launch it still feels very current. No. 19 is like jeans and pearls and can be equally enjoyed by a nature girl roaming through the forests or a sophisticated urban-bound gal trotting up the street promptly accessorized with a dog and purse to match.

Laura Ashley No. 1 - a scent that is unfortunately discontinued; sophisticated green floral that brings to mind an English garden at spring time with flowering bulbs of lily and hyacinths. It’s lady-like, well-mannered, romantic and only very tiny bit melancholy, a quality which I usually find to underline most green fragrances.

Similarly romantic, and with a more cheerful, fruity and soapy attitude is AnaisAnais by Cacharel. With its fresh galbanum notes, Madonna lily and a mossy base it’s a classic for this season, without being too sharp.

Warming up the florals with its signature Guerlinade of vanilla, iris and tonka bean, Chamade by Guerlain has all that spring has to offer - the sharp galbanum, the heady hyacinth and the mossy base of freshly turned soil.

Lastly, Masakï Matsushïma’s Mintea, a minty green tea scent, with a musky base. What I like about it is it’s freshness that lacks sharpness despite the fact that it is green; unlike most greens, it also stays close to the skin and has a beautifully soft, skin-musk like base.

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