Cognoscenti’s No. 19 took me by surprise. The line is decidedly abstract, and insists on using very little if any floral notes at all. Add to this the angular, unisex packaging and numerals in lieu of titles and you’ll find what is usually the recipe for being ignored by my nose. Except that this line is different, and the stubborn shortage of frivolity reveals a true artistry and a mischievous, playful style.

Dannielle Sergent, the lady behind the scents, is an architect by training and profession, and studied under Yosh Han. Cognoscenti debuted in July at the 1st Artisan Fragrance Salon in San Francisco - a unique event, first of its kind that although small and quite underground, will be unforgettable as the launching pads of several indie niche brands on the West Coast and where artists who otherwise work rather reclusively in front of an intimidating organ came together as a community to voice their similarities and differences let their voices be heard as one.

But I digress. I wanted to tell you about Dannielle’s work, which I found astounding. Do not let the architectural, cut-glass look of the line fool you to think that these scents will be cold, emotionless or un-sexy. What is behind these crystal walls is a jus so mercurial and expressive that by the time you found your words to describe its scent - its very essence has already changed and become another.

No. 19 is accompanied by a tagline that reads “warm carrot” – which I can relate to much more easily than a random number (and do not expect it to resemble Chanel’s perfume bearing the same number either). If anything, on first impression it will remind you of another Chanel’s classic which I love even more: Bois des Iles. Cognoscenti’s composition, however, revolves entirely around a much misunderstood, underused and under-praised note of carrot seed essential oil. Although, mind you, it is known for its wonders in skin care, containing carotene and vitamin A – both helpful for anti-aging and anti-oxidants. When I first smelled carrot seed I thought very little of it as a perfumery ingredient. And I kinda left it there, neglected in its little corner on my palette.

Wild carrot seed (Daucus carota) shines in No. 19 and brings forth qualities that I have never thought belonged to carrot: mysterious, sexy, soft. It is warm, woody, musky and a little powdery and skin like.

In the beginning you will smell also hints of ylang ylang’s creaminess, lavender’s softness and the rich almost cloying woody sweetness of sandalwood (and as mentioned earlier - together reminding me of Bois des Iles). Other notes – vanilla, musk, amber, clary sage - weave in and out yet the carrot remains true with its beige elegance and creamy soft attitude of caroty intrigue, until the final dry down: vetiver and lavender, smelling curiously musky in the best of ways.

The energetic yet gentle dance of the notes reinforces the strange characteristics of Cognoscenit: the weaving in and out of notes, the return of the same forgotten notes moments later, and an over all dance that might seem chaotic at first but quickly reveals a pattern and a rhythm, perhaps even a hidden reason. The unexpected has happened – a new perfume structure was invented. Dynamic movement spiraling out of an invisible centre. It reflects the beauty of change and speaks of the intrigue of randomness. Abandon the well-traveled path and you will discover an abundance of wisdom and beauty.

Notes: Carrot seed, ylang ylang, lavender, vetiver, labdanum, amber, benzoin, vanilla

It's hard to believe another year has gone by! It seems just like yesterday when I was swimming at Sunset Beach and testing the final versions of Orcas on the lifeguards. Oh, wait - I did go for a swim yesterday! Finally, summer is back in the Pacific Nothwest, and that was my first real, long swim of the year, at the very same spot. Ahh, so refreshing...! Which is the same feeling I get now spritzing my Orcas EDP from the new spray bottles. Got some good news to share with you, just in time for Father's Day and the beginning of summer - so read on!

In this newsletter:

1. Orcas, the 1st Natural Oceanic Fragrance


2. New: Eau de Parfum Spray Bottles


3. In the Media + Contest


4. Upcoming Events: Lace Embrace Event @ Hycroft Mansion June 19th


5. Orcas Fragrance Launch Party July 17



6. Wedding Perfumes


7. Fragrant Father's Day
   
   

1. Orcas, the 1st Natural Oceanic Fragrance for Men

A couple of years ago, I went to Tofino and Uclulet for a little summer vacation, and fell in love with the magical, misty Pacific rim. Long Beach was breathtaking, with the constant mist in the air and the mythical rock that just sits there waiting for the surfers to take a wrong turn, and the whales passing by the Wild Pacific Trail enchanted me with their songs...
The air there is so crips and clean that it makes a perfect habitat for moss and lichen, adorning the trees with velvety green topes and silvery lace. And just
off the shore,
whales spit a mist of water from their lungs which towers abaove the
water and they weave in and out of its depths along the rocky shores.
Orcas plays on this theme of the marine creatures and moss.

Two years later, and Orcas has become what I envisioned - an innovative all-natural marine woody scent, a unique alternative to the mainstream aquatic/ozone fragrances. Orcas is made of a unique combination of scents from sea and seashore, some mundane and familiar, and others are precious botanical gems from the ocean and the land.

It is available in EDP only, in two sizes - 4ml mini ($38) or 15ml spray/splash bottle ($120). It was offered for pre-ordering so the number of bottles that will be ready for the launch (June 12th) is rather limited at the moment (and I'm thrilled it was so well received!!!).

It was always intended as a masculine fragrance, but as it turns out - both men and women love to smell and wear it!!!

You can read more about the process of creating Orcas on SmellyBlog. Here are more notes on the materials used in the finished creation:

Top notes - Breath of Fresh Air:

Rosemary verbenon - sheer, non-medicinal and reminiscent of tea and crisp ocean breeze. Rosemary bushes grow at Sunset Beach, and the lifeguard there make it into tea.

Lime - with its sweet, slightly coconutty undertones, lime is a note that always reminds me of the beach.

Fresh Ginger - brisk and zingy

Cedarwood - an inevitable note as the beaches of the Pacific Northwest are often a rainforest, or gritty sand dotted with cedar logs.

Heart notes - Non-Floral Flowers:
Egyptian Geranium - with a slightly salty, woody and musky aroma, it brings forward floral elements while keeping it clean and frill-free.

Boronia - a dash of oceanic saltiness from this Tasmanian treasure.

Clary Sage - tea-like and ambery nuances to connect between the ambergris and rosemary.

Violet Leaf - a freshwater mist that is cool and elegant.

Base notes - Salt, Whales and Forest at their best:

Seaweed - crisp ocean air with prominent saltiness

Ambergris - animalic whale secretion

Cedarmoss - reminiscent of the lichen hanging on the coniferous trees on the Wild Pacific Trail

Blue Spruce Absolute - scent of the Pacific Northwest forests

Continue reading Ayala Moriel's latest newsletter.

My friend and collegue Ineke in San Francisco has just informed me of her new perfume to be launched September 2010, titled Gilded Lily. Intrigued by the Goldband Lily of Japan (Lilium aurantium), which is now the basis for many of the modern lily hybrids.

Gilded Lily is a fruity Chypre, with top notes of pineapple and rhubabr, heart notes of goldband lily, and a base of oakmoss, patchouli and amber. I will tell you more about it after I smell it.